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  1. #1
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    Wink CyconXc's -- D8 Shock Setup

    This is a thread I wanted to start to help answer any questions about upgrading to Hot Bodies D8 shocks.
    I was tired of bottoming out hard on big jumps, so I decided to do something about it. It was either between these shocks, or the Team Associated SC10 4x4 shocks. Both I heard were very good, seemed very high quality, and cost around the same price.

    Hot Bodies D8's
    -8th Scale size & strength
    -More shock body volume
    -Bleed hole
    -Metal Shock Caps
    -Comes built in 97mm & 112mm sets

    SC10 4x4 Shocks
    -Less oil per shock
    -Bleed Screw
    -Plastic Shock Caps
    -Comes as a kit with 30 or 26mm shock bodies

    I decided to go with the D8's. I ordered 2 sets of 97mm for $40 each. Both in one pack come built, with a baggy full of mounting screws and 2 stand-offs. Got them from RCHobbies4Life.

    Setup

    3 Front Options:

    1. Just 97mm shocks on the stock front shock tower without changes. It will fit, but you have to mount them with the outer A-arm wholes. Not much ajustability.

    2. 97mm up front using shortened rod ends and Kyosho spring cup. Takes minor modding and added time to wait for the other order. Will make the D8s a little longer than stock fronts.

    3. Rear Shock Tower mod. Lets you run the shocks without changes and gives you back the ajustability.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...r-Up-Front-Mod
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BafNfrTvK-I


    Rear Options

    1. Stock D8 setup works fine on the rear.
    2. Stock setup with longer D8t shock ends. If you want a higher ride height.


    Pics:


    With rear shock tower mod, front shocks use the stand-offs on the top, flush on the bottom.

    D8 97mm next to Traxxas Rear Big Bores. Notice they are the same length.



  2. #2
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    Right now I'm running Losi 35wt all around, might need a little thicker.

    Mounting Pics: Let me know if more are needed.

    Fronts





    Rears



  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Very useful info. Thanks

  5. #5
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    Why did you pick the 97mm instead of the 112mm? I think the 112mm is closer to the length of the stock rear shocks.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    But, if it keeps your from bottoming out on jumps, how does it handle? Is the shock too stiff to move up and down with terrain, and allow the body to roll a little for traction in dirt and offroad?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx Racer View Post
    Why did you pick the 97mm instead of the 112mm? I think the 112mm is closer to the length of the stock rear shocks.
    You can see it in the above pic that the 97's are the same length as the Traxxas rears. I asked about the 112's but someone told me that they were too long. Once you add the D8T shock ends in the rear it sits much nicer.
    #customrctrophytruck

  8. #8
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    Thanx


    BL Race Emaxx
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  9. #9
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    When your d8's arrived pre-built, did they have oil in them, if so what weight?

    Secondly how. Do you get the tops off without ruining ans scratching them up. Thanks

  10. #10
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    Does anyone have an idea how I add the long shock end D8T to the end of the piston. I have looked around online and can't seem to find any detailed information or videos. I cannot for the life of me get the shorter stock shock end off that comes with the shock. I tried pulling it off with some pliers and it won't budge. I'm worried if I pull too hard I will damage the shock and or piston. As well, how do you get the small chrome ball with the hole in it as well. Thanks in advance.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    They are threaded onto the shaft, not press fitted/friction fitted.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    They are threaded onto the shaft, not press fitted/friction fitted.
    Thanks for the reply. Do you figure I can damage the steel rod if I left a mark from my pliers on it? It is on the bottom. I figure that is the only way I will be able to unscrew it. It constantly wants to rotate, even when I apply medium to firm force.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I don't remember what I did when changing my rod ends, but I think I wrapped the shaft with tape and used a vice grip to hold it in place.

    According to the Traxxas manual:

    Use side cutters to grip the shock shaft just above the rod end. Remove the rod end from the shock shaft using the suspension multi-tool (C).

    I use Vorza shocks on my rig:


    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post6308516
    Last edited by Squeegie; 04-14-2017 at 10:27 PM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  14. #14
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Shock shaft pliers are the best way to do it. The Protek one also has a hollowball press to easily get the hollowball in or out. That's the one I use.
    razorrcblog.blogspot.com
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  15. #15
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    Squeegie that truck looks amazing! Fantastic custom job.

    Razor, I managed to get the end off with a tekno tool I forgot I had. As well as the ball from the bottom. Thanks.
    There are two things I am still trying to figure out.

    1. I have removed the stock shock rod end. The hole on the longer shock rod end is too small to screw the rod into. As well, there is no threading.

    2. I am running a STRC rear shock tower on the front and having trouble finding a screw long enough to connect the spacer that comes with the tower(giving the shock separation from the tower) and the stand-off that it is recommended you use. That is over a 35mm screw, maybe close to 40mm. Keep in mind(and I am not sure why this is), the top hope in the SRTC shock tower have no threading.

    So one step forward two steps back?

    I promise I will post some pictures when done. My Frankenstein slash sits on a shining star chassis, with the d8 shocks and some xo-1 hardware. It will be interesting to see how it handles and definitely a challenge to build!
    Last edited by Otter2K; 04-15-2017 at 08:59 PM.

  16. #16
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    I figured problem 1. I ended up picking up a drill tap to add the treads to the longer shock end. Worked like a charm!

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Glad you got problem #1 taken care of. I think I just jammed it in and let the metal tread it's own way into the plastic rod ends.

    Hope you get problem #2 solved soon!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

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