They are effectively the same price. The savox is a little stronger and a little faster. I feel like I read that the savox is a volt pig though and needs a bec. Is that true? It's the 0250mg vs the 390bmh for the blue bird.
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They are effectively the same price. The savox is a little stronger and a little faster. I feel like I read that the savox is a volt pig though and needs a bec. Is that true? It's the 0250mg vs the 390bmh for the blue bird.
+1 vote for the SAVOX SW-0250MG Waterproof Metal Gear Digital Micro Servo 5KG For 1/16 Traxxas. You don't need a bec installed, the VXL 3m ESC has an internal BEC. The only thing you need to do is reverse the steering on the transmitter apart from that works straight out of the box. I did add a Racers Edge Glitch Buster Power Capacitor 2474 weeks after the install of the servo as I also installed a gyro and were concerned the servo might spaz out under the extra load. The esc seemed to have enough power to run a gyro and savox with no glitching. I just leave the cap plugged in now as i figure its paid for and at least there is some power filtering going on at some level even if I don't notice it.
Yea savox 0250 mg is a good servo very Hi torque. I have them in all of my vehicles
I have never tried the bluebird but i have the savox in both my trucks, no issues.
I have the bluebird and never had any trouble - it's a nice upgrade from the stock servo.
But there's a thing though... when you turn off the truck - the servo doesn't stay where it is. It will usually travel all the way to one it's end point - so when you're not using the truck, the wheels are usually always turned all the way to the right or left. I'm starting to find this annoying :)
I run a HiTec 5086WP and have had no problem either...
The savox have a glitch problem on Spektrum radios if that makes a difference. I've got both the Savox 0250MG and the BB390bmh. I'm running two of the Blue Birds in my Merv not and they are great! No glitches and so much power. Heck, one in the rig was a huge upgrade over the stock and the Hitec I ran for a bit. I'd get either the BlueBird or the Turn1gy and dump Savox. I only still run with a few of them because they are so heavily modded in one of my smaller trucks.
I haven't heard of any issue with savox and spektrum. I run spektrum on both my trucks, one with an OLD Losi DSM receiver, one with a newer DSM2 receiver, no glitches.
Spektrum Rx's are known for being voltage sensitive and Savox servo's are known for being power hungry at times... Sometimes a glitch buster solves the problem and sometimes it doesn't. With one of my setups I could overpower the Rx in power slides and shut down the Rx leaving wheels locked in a turn at high speed. Watching your car roll into a wall or a curb with no control on it sucks.
They are beautiful little servos when they run properly, but having a line up of Spektrum Rx's already I was annoyed when the glitches kept getting me. They are the only servo's I've had an issue with.
I ran duel TRA2080 stock servos for a while and ended up pulling them out for just one Savox, this was an instant noticeable upgrade made my steering more responsive with super torque. I only use the traxxas radio so cant comment on others, seems insane that changing to a different one would cause you glitching issues. I would have thought the glitching came from the esc not providing enough power to the servo, loose wire, faulty servo. I am sure when I ran duel stock servos they would have drawn more current than a single Savox.
The problem comes when people run high voltage servos, which draw considerably more per than "normal" servos. (Also, it only happens on 1/10 and 1/8 scale, OT a problem on mini's) Even with a 2 cell lipo connected right to the rx, people forget you can't just use Itty bitty 24 gage servo wire from the lipo to the rx and expect everything to work perfectly, when your servo has 22 even 20 gage wir....
I run a bluebird and love it. You have to reverse the servo but that's it. Uses factory hardware also.
I use a green one and still kicks! Last's & outperforms the stock ones .... so why not? Even got metal gears, the major problem of stock ones. The model of the green is the same of the blues from bluebird :)
Can anyone determine the difference between the 390dmh and the 390v? I waited to long and the deal on the dmh dropped off my cart. But the v is $10 cheaper for what looks like the same servo.
I think I figured out the difference. The V is a 6-7.2Volt and the dmh is a 4.8-6V. If the bec on the vxl-3m is 6v, can it still run that? Can it do it well or will it brown out under load?
Just looking at the specs between the two, I would get the 390DMH.
Why?
At 6.0V, the 390DMH has 75oz. of torque. The 390V has 64oz.
Speed is also .03@60˚ faster.
The operating voltage is within the limit of the BEC so it should be able to power it you just wont get as much torque. My savox is 4.8-6v and if I ran it at 4.8v gives (3.5 kg-cm) and @ 6v (5.0 kg-cm). Compared with the Bluebird 390v (4.6 kg-cm) @ 6v & Stock traxxas servo (3kg-cm) @ 6v. Weather or not it will brown out? you wont know until you try it.
Thank you. I will now finally climb down off the fence and buy something.
I have the dmh version and have never had any problems or glitches. It's a very smooth and nice servo. Also I'm running a losi esc that doesn't put out as much juice as the stock traxxas esc.
I ordered the dmh. It was quite a process. I now understand some of the frustrations others have expressed about dealing with that corporation.
You will not regret it. It's a great servo. Just make sure you reverse the steering. Also there are two tabs you will want to remove. If you go on my thread (my favorite money pit) I have some pics of me installing it and what the tabs look like. Also jimmy neutron has a good thread explaining how to reverse the steering.
i have a cheap servo from a"website i cant named" and i going to get a savox servo i have savox servos in almost everything i have pan cars, all my slashes, 1/10 touring cars even rustler to slash conversion so i vote 1 for for savox
pm me for the name of the website
Hi everyone,
This is the first time I've ever posted and don't know how to start a new thread to ask a question so figured I'd start here.
I have a 1:16 e-revo. I crashed it head on into a curb. Since then the steering has been erratic. I can configure the trim to ensure the car goes straight but as soon as I punch the accelerator and take the accelerator off it reverts back to a serious pull in one direction. I know my rear diff needs replacing so my rear wheels aren't getting great power and it does steer further one way that the other. Any ideas? Is it my servo, is it related to the rear diff or is it something else?
[QUOTE=Sully226;6085420]Hi everyone,
This is the first time I've ever posted and don't know how to start a new thread to ask a question so figured I'd start here.
I have a 1:16 e-revo. I crashed it head on into a curb. Since then the steering has been erratic. I can configure the trim to ensure the car goes straight but as soon as I punch the accelerator and take the accelerator off it reverts back to a serious pull in one direction. I know my rear diff needs replacing so my rear wheels aren't getting great power and it does steer further one way that the other. Any ideas? Is it my servo, is it related to the rear diff or is it something else?[/QUOTE]
Does it make clicking noises when you turn it? Probably there is something more than just the servo. Bent or broken something in the front end. Was it a hard crash?
I would guess either a busted servo, or busted servo saver. Does is make any weird noise when you turn? How far can you turn the wheels (as in steering) by hand when the truck is on and you are not touching the remote?
[QUOTE=Sully226;6085420]Hi everyone,
This is the first time I've ever posted and don't know how to start a new thread to ask a question...[/QUOTE]
When you are on the sub-forum of your choice, look at the almost-top left corner.
You should see a "+ Post New Thread" button.
Just click there and make your thread.
[QUOTE=Sully226;6085420]I have a 1:16 e-revo. I crashed it head on into a curb. Since then the steering has been erratic. I can configure the trim to ensure the car goes straight but as soon as I punch the accelerator and take the accelerator off it reverts back to a serious pull in one direction. I know my rear diff needs replacing so my rear wheels aren't getting great power and it does steer further one way that the other. Any ideas? Is it my servo, is it related to the rear diff or is it something else?[/QUOTE]
As for your steering problems, if not your servo, closely check your servo saver, toe links, and push rods.
Heck, you should even check your a-arms (where the pins are inserted).
Good luck! :thumbup:
The Turingy TGY-390DMH is an excellent servo for this application along with the HotRacing VXS4801 bellcrank.
[QUOTE=Sully226;6085420]Hi everyone,
This is the first time I've ever posted and don't know how to start a new thread to ask a question so figured I'd start here.
I have a 1:16 e-revo. I crashed it head on into a curb. Since then the steering has been erratic. I can configure the trim to ensure the car goes straight but as soon as I punch the accelerator and take the accelerator off it reverts back to a serious pull in one direction. I know my rear diff needs replacing so my rear wheels aren't getting great power and it does steer further one way that the other. Any ideas? Is it my servo, is it related to the rear diff or is it something else?[/QUOTE]
You may have stripped the servo arm (black plastic thing screwed to round gear on the bottom of the servo), stock is plastic. you can upgrade to alu. Even slightly stripped will create steer slop type issues..
Got the 390dmh installed and the direction reversed. It seems though that I am not getting the servo to return to center when I turn one way. I have had steering issues with this truck since I bought it and figured the servo would finally solve the problems. The saver is newish and I checked for binding before I installed the new servo. Where do I check now?
[URL]https://vimeo.com/144676906[/URL]
Here is another from the bottom. No, I didn't buy the integy skid plate, it came on the truck. Hahaha. Thanks.
[URL]https://vimeo.com/144680110[/URL]
I would say your servo arm is stripped.
Check your pillow balls and make sure there not over tighten.... See if the helps.
[QUOTE=dacaur;6101721]I would say your servo arm is stripped.[/QUOTE]
You mean the piece that goes from the servo and hooks into the saver right?
[QUOTE=Zamboniman808;6101800]You mean the piece that goes from the servo and hooks into the saver right?[/QUOTE]
The part that actualy slips over the splined output shaft on the servo and screws onto the servo.
OP: They are talking about the 25T stock servo horn.
Here's HR's aluminum replacement:
[IMG]http://www.rcjpg.com/xu2dxk8axp6lhb6qbp0s/109734.jpg[/IMG]
[URL="http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnumber=VXS25SH06;c=455"]http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnumber=VXS25SH06;c=455[/URL]
Even just another plastic one is fine. It's not all that common to strip them. Set your end points right and try not to hit stuff....The servo saver normally does a pretty good job of protecting from big impacts.
I think it is the endpoints. I put a spare horn on and it still does the same thing. I watched it upside down and what I think is happening is that the horn is hyper extending (like an elbow) and then getting a bit stuck. The 390dmh has the spindle in a slightly different place than the 2080 and so the throw is different. When it heads towards the back of the truck its fine, but when it goes forward it is hyper extending.
I saw somewhere an adjustable link to go between the horn and the saver arm. Is that something that comes with the HR saver or is it just available as a part? It would probably solve this problem as well.
Just turn down your dual rates till its not moving any further than necessary... An adjustable link doesnt come with any servo saver I have seen for this truck. I have seem some toe link sets that come with one, but thats a pretty expensive way to get one.... You can make your own by using two lower shock ends (from a mini revo), unscrew the shock rods, then take a screw that will thread into them and cut off the head and thread it between the two shock ends... But, thats a lot of work to avoid turning down your dual rates....
I made my own adjustable steering linkage for just that reason. I used shock rod ends and cut the head off a #2 machine screw that I had sitting in my garage. Lined them up and installed:
[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd145/BSP06XRU/RC%20Stuff/Traxxas%20Forum%20Pics/c8fc54ef-1a05-42b4-9941-d64c317e841b_zpscb2ddef5.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Squeegie;6102027]I made my own adjustable steering linkage for just that reason. I used shock rod ends and cut the head off a #2 machine screw that I had sitting in my garage. Lined them up and installed:
[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd145/BSP06XRU/RC%20Stuff/Traxxas%20Forum%20Pics/c8fc54ef-1a05-42b4-9941-d64c317e841b_zpscb2ddef5.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
That's where it was! Thank you.