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  1. #1
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    ez starter schematic???

    my ez starter is now only half-functional. only the motor is being powered. the glow plug section doesn't seem to function. it was OK for 2 weeks but now, i have to ignite the GP with a separate GP igniter to turn the engine on.
    i'm in the phils, so i can't easily get the parts... i know a lil of electronics so i'm planning to repair it myself.
    can anybody share with me the schematic of the ez starter??
    thanks...

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  2. #2
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    this is kinda hard to see but it shows you how everything goes trans and easy start setup

  3. #3
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    thanks michowski.... i may have posted the thread with lacking information...
    i firmly believe the problem is in the EZ starter controller. no problem at all in the EZ starter system attached to the engine as the motor is cranking the engine fine. i believe there isn't any current that's been passing to the GP, and therefore won't fire it up.
    an electronic system schematic of the ez starter controller would help much in my debugging...

    thanks much....

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  4. #4
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    the e-z start is very simple remove the batt. then unsnap the cover under the batt. now you have to desolder the two lugs directly behind the push button to open the case to see the board.if you know basic electronics you will see the only component dividing the two circiuts is a ballast resistor it is the big white thing that is what lowers the voltage to 1.5 for the glow plug.if you can measure 7.2 volts before the resistor and nothing after thats the prob.infact i believe their is nothing else in that circiut to cause it to not work cause every thing else would cause it to not crank the starter motor also.the push button is connected to the front case and the board to the rear so you have to desolder the switch to disassemble or you will destrot the board.

  5. #5
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    I think this might be a common problem with them. There are lots of them for sale on ebay. Mine has the same problem. The circuit is a bit more complex than what is described but is not too complicated. I took mine apart only to see that it looks as though it had been repaired before (I bought a used one). It looked like the LM358 had been replaced. I couldn't find a cross for the TO220 device glued to the heat sink. I just picked another one up on ebay and figured I would fix the other one later as well as have a working one to compare it against.

  6. #6
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    I had the exact same problem with my 2.5....for me the quick fix was to buy an EZ start controler for the "old" maxx. It seemed to start much better with that one. That worked great.....but since I have gone to pull start and I actually like that better yet.
    Run What your Brung and Hope your Brung Enough......Or else go cook me some dinner!

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. tmaxxfreak's Avatar
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    Commen problem? Mine is over a year old and I use it on my maxx plus my nephews used it on there nitro sports. They use mine seems to work better then theirs that came with the nitro sport. Had to buy another just so I didnt have to keep chasing mine down. I got lucky and bought one for 5 bucks off a guy at my LHS. It was his for his smaxx and he didnt need it anymore..
    If you can't fix it. Smash it with a hammer...If that don't work hit it again...
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  8. #8
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    I can see how anyone can prefer a pullstart to pushing a button. Why do you prefer the pullstart?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. tmaxxfreak's Avatar
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    Originally posted by s3rock
    I can see how anyone can prefer a pullstart to pushing a button. Why do you prefer the pullstart?
    Who me I hate the pull start one of the reasons I bought the maxx was due to the ezstart..
    If you can't fix it. Smash it with a hammer...If that don't work hit it again...
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  10. #10
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    Commen problem? Mine is over a year old and I use it on my maxx plus my nephews used it on there nitro sports.
    That doesn't mean that everyone is bad! It just means that it is a common mode of failure. Three people here have already stated they have the same problem. Take a look on ebay at how many people are buying these. They are not collectables so there must be a reason.

  11. #11
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    Its all in what you like I guess.....yes the ez-start is "easy" but if the engine is properly tuned it will start very easily with the pull start. Then you can eliminate the weight by ditching the ez-start every ounce adds up.....

    thanks-
    Run What your Brung and Hope your Brung Enough......Or else go cook me some dinner!

  12. #12
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    Get a glow plug igniter. They save the battery on the easy start, and the engine starts much faster with a glow ignitor.
    Thanks, DaveO

    "It's too bad Ignorance isn't painful!"

  13. #13
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    i had the easy start but i was having similar problems like these in here. I to bought a new controller but it was still having problems with the weight on the truck. It would start in 10 seconds everytime with it but it was to heavy and bulky. I got the pullstarter and its a world a difference. The engine could breathe better and the weight is cut in the back. I only have to pull it a couple times and its started. Less then a minute most of the time. So as long as your engine is tuned right y not go to a pull starter. It beats carrying around 3 batteries and the easy start box then the big charger for it. With pullstart just carry the little glow ignitor the size of your hand.

  14. #14
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    Well, to me it is kinda like having to pull start a lawn mower. I prefer to turn the key and go. BTW, my dad use to have a tractor that had a crank. Anyone remember those. Want to talk about starting...I love starters!

  15. #15
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    I think its a combination of all of the above things but I will give you that the starter motor is handy for cranking a stubborn or cold motor....but the biggest thing I noticed is what I am seeing here, it seems as if the EZ start is not heating up the plug properly so when guys ditch the ez start and go to pull start they see a huge difference because of the glow starter....Thats how it was for me.

    You can just pull the wire, use a glow starter in addition to the EZ start.

    I also agree that the motor gets better air circulation and runs cooler without the EZ start and you really do save a lot of weight and mine fires up on just a few pulls.
    Run What your Brung and Hope your Brung Enough......Or else go cook me some dinner!

  16. #16
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    well if your engine starts really fast and easy with the easy start then i would recommend getting the pullstart. But if you have one of those stubborn engines that drains you es batteries to start it once then keep the easy start. But you gotta also keep in mind that i just recently went to the pullstarter because my easy starter was so heavy that it was making the screws from the backplate come loose which made the engine not work properly. And without it my engine runs better and the engine runs cooler. Ya i loved the idea of just pushing a button to start the engine but with everything else that you sacrafice i dont think its worth it. its a lot easier to just carry the tiny glow ignitor, car, gas, and controller then it is to carry the car, gas, battery, easystart box, charger, controller, ect. Im just saying the pullstarter is better but the easy start it easier but not by much for a properly tuned engine.

  17. #17
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    Originally posted by s3rock
    I can see how anyone can prefer a pullstart to pushing a button. Why do you prefer the pullstart?
    Weight.
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  18. #18
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    when that e-z start was designed they should have put the glow on seperate circiut with a seperate switch to turn the glow on alone.this way it could be turned off to prime then turn it on so soon as you plug in it would heat the plug then push the momentary switch to crank over and start but thats manufacturing and buisiness that would cost a extra 10 cents per e-z start. The e-z start is as simple as descibed it is of the most basic ic board and components you will find, the glow side has the batt., momentery switch the resistor and a led all the other components are for the start side and over heat protection.

  19. #19
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    i know the pull starter is a great idea... but i have to add $$ to my investments... i've already bought the separate igniter and since i'm using a separate igniter for now, i believe its like doing the pull start, less the pull since i'm using the motor to do the cranking... plus, i kinda invested in the 7.2V battery since i got the 3000mAH Ni-MH pack. i want to make the most of it...
    i've back traced the PCB and drawn the schematic... i was hoping to share it here in the thread but i can't post the dwg for now... actually, i dunno.. LOL
    i believe its caused by the op amp LM358 being busted... its not giving the correct output given the correct input. i'll try to replace the part and will let you guys know what comes out of it....
    this is one thing of a hobby i like... "TROUBLESHOOTING"....

    thanks much for posting... keep em comin'

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  20. #20
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    The e-z start is as simple as descibed it is of the most basic ic board and components you will find, the glow side has the batt., momentery switch the resistor and a led all the other components are for the start side and over heat protection.
    If you are referring to the EZ-Start 2, you are quite mistaken. The motor is driven through the switch, poly fuse. There is a resistor to limit the current for the LED and the LED itself. All the rest of the components are for the glow plug ignitor. I have one taken apart right now and will see what I can find out.

  21. #21
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    Try replacing the LM358. That chip had been replaced on mine before. I installed a socket and a new one and now the glow ignitor works great.

  22. #22
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    thanks s3rock... that i will do...
    its a good thing you mentioned about the socket... if the op amp is the culprit, then i'll stock-up some LM358 and replace it as soon as i get bugged down by this thing again...
    i'm curious though on what Traxxas' stand on this issue...

    thanks much.... and to all of you who posted...

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  23. #23
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    first thing take the ez-start and wiring and throw it as far as u can.now use that gp igniter and get a pullstart.they are awesome mine starts on the first pull,after i prime the engine.

  24. #24
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    Did you determine what the TO220 device with the heat sink glued on is? I couldn't find a cross. I didin't completely trace the schematic. Mine sharing it with me.

    timothymarknorton at yahoo dot com

  25. #25
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    s3rock i stand corrected the resistor is on the led not the blue wire next to it.the e-z start i have apart that chip is a kia 358p233 i wonder if their was a change this e-z start has never failed. also the second chip with the heat sink appears to have a zenor diode with it burried in the glue that leads me to believe its being used to reguate the voltage.

  26. #26
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    s3rock, i couldn't take the heat sink off the package. i would want to have a glimpse on its part number but i believe its a high current FET meant as a pass transistor switch to turn "ON" the GP.
    i've removed the op-amp off my controller board and plugged in an 8-pin socket... ready for the replacement part.

    also, i've sent you the schematic. hope it helps...

  27. #27
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    If you desolder the FET you can see its part number. I didn't recongize it as any standard device. I was also able to kill a couple of LM358's. This seems to occur if the engine hydro-locks and stalls the EZ-Start motor. I am wondering if back EMF is taking out the LM358. I think I will add a reverse bias diode across the motor. I did get the schematic. Thanks. Nice job documenting it. One thing that I did notice is that you have the 2n3199 drawn as a NPN. I searched on the web and it shows it being a PNP device.

  28. #28
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    s3rock, regarding the schematic i sentyou, i believe i marked it wrong on the transistor part. it should have been marked KTC3199 rather than 2N3199. it is actually an NPN device, a general purpose epitaxial type transistor from a Korean company, KEC. i believe it would make more sense if the part is an NPN rather than a PNP.
    i can't desolder the device, there's another part on its side marked D4 that has been glued to it. i don't want to damage it,
    as it is in glass packge.
    anyway, i still haven't got my replacement component... can't wait to plug them in..

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  29. #29
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    D4 is a thermal switch.
    If it aint broke dont fix it!
    Have A Nice Day!

  30. #30
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    I had the same problem the engine would spin over and the glow plug led light would not come on. I took it back to my local hobbie shop showed them, and they replaced the eazt-start for free. Only because i had bought it there and had it only for two days.
    I live my life a gallon of nitro fuel at a time, for those 25 tanks or more im free. T-Maxx 2.5 E-Rustler 10/3 Peak

  31. #31
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    yeah, that's what i thought too oldwig. i was thinking if its a negative coef thermistor but i can't test it though.
    s3rock, it would be a great idea to place a shunt diode accross the motor to safeguard the rest of the circuitry from the back EMF of the motor. i think i would that...

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  32. #32
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    Yeah, I put a P6KE27A across the motor. I was still blowing the LM358 when the motor hydro-locked. I figured the motor was getting pretty heavily loaded as the engine was about to lock. Then when the engine locked the back EMF might be getting back to the LM358 and destroying it somehow. So far its working good since I added the diode.

  33. #33
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    just plugged in the new LM358 IC and my EZ starter is now fully functional.
    now i know which part gets burned easily. i've stock a few couple of the ICs and will look for the shunt diode part for the motor... this should solve all the issues of my EZ starter...

    feels great having fixed what's broken...

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  34. #34
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    Yeah, my repaired one with the added diode works great. I had bought another new one off ebay that lasted a whole 2 mins! I contacted Traxxas and they claim of no knowledge of any problems.

  35. #35
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    I'm having the same problem with my new t-maxx, the engine turns but no power on the glow plug wire.

    So all I need to do is replace the LM358 IC and place a P6KE27A (diode?) onto the enige power inputs??

    This may be a stupid question, but the big white resistor inside the starter box says '10W 1ΩK' I would think this is a 1000Ω resistor, but if i measure it it's only 2 Ohm's.

    I someone would be so kind to email me a schematic i can post it it on my site and place a link in this forum.

  36. #36
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    Wow you guys definitely know alot about electronics! Same thing happened to me twice so now I just use a glow starter.
    Fantom fr. .18,FOC, Team Associated aluminum shocks, RPM bumpers and bulk braces, Fantom .18 engine, New Era Bulkheads, 2700mah batt. pack, dynamite aluminum diff. case. For sale: pm me

  37. #37
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    Yeah, its what I do for a living

  38. #38
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    have the same problem !
    do you say that changing the chip and only it will solve it or should i change some of the transistors too ?

  39. #39
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    Yes, only replace the chip. I also placed the new chip in a socket, as adviced on this forum.

  40. #40
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    great thank you it works ! but is there a comment on that from traxxas ?
    allso where to connect the diode to the motor

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