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  1. #1
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    It will start and run for about 3 seconds...

    I can get my Revo to start for 3 seconds, then it quits. I can give it throttle and it reacts accordingly, but still stalls after 3 seconds.

    It does not matter if it is running at idle or any amount of throttle, it always stalls after 3 seconds. I only have about 1 gallon through this engine. The only mixture I have messed with is the HSN, and idle at break in. It ran perfect the tank before this. New glow plug

    Help!

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    hello welcome to the forums

    Did youread this? please click here.....


    might want to make sure your high speed needle is 4 turns out and the lsn is set flush with side of carb,

    also make sure your glow plug is not bad,if you are having trouble it might be bad.....



    A good starting point for the TRX 2.5 hi-speed needle is 4 turns out from closed. This is preset at the factory, and is a good default setting in case you lose track of the engine's current mixture setting




    Notice the thin darker gray area between the low speed needle and the throttle arm. This is actually the other end of the slide valve from inside the carburetor. The low-speed needle is threaded into the slide valve and is set flush (even) with the edge of the slide valve. Note: This is a good base setting. Adjustments may need to be made to the low-speed needle for best performance in your running conditions


    hope this helps you out,

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the link. I have followed the instructions on the link and on your post. with no luck.
    It's really strange that it does not matter if it is full throttle or just idle and it stalls.

    I checked for fuel and air leaks with no luck. although it's hard to check for air leaks when it only runs for 3 seconds.

    I have tried 3 different known to be good glow plugs

  4. #4
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    Could it be this One Way bearing? Could it be begining to wear or something?

  5. #5
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    did you check for a hole in the line from the mufler to the gas tank? sounds like you might not have enough back pressure to run. a guy at the track had the same prob. this week and we found a small cut in the pressure line.
    blue looks like lightning as it blows by!!!! time to break out the nitro and have some fun!!!!

  6. #6
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    Originally posted by nitroal
    did you check for a hole in the line from the mufler to the gas tank? sounds like you might not have enough back pressure to run. a guy at the track had the same prob. this week and we found a small cut in the pressure line.
    Thanks for the suggestion. I just looked over the tube and it looks fine



    My engine did get way hot, like 400 degrees for about 3 or 4 minutes when i switch fuel for a 1/4 tank, but then ran fine for 3 tanks afterwards when i switch the fuel back to Traxxas. Would that have any affect? I wouldn't think so since it ran great for 3 tanks aferwards

  7. #7
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    did u check for the bad o-ring seal on the fuel lid?

  8. #8
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    guys, i am having the EXACTLY SAME PROBLEM, for last 2 weeks. can't get it to work, runs for 3 secs and then shuts off.
    little bit over gallon too, tried 3 new glow plugs!

  9. #9
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    Originally posted by graphite07
    did u check for the bad o-ring seal on the fuel lid?
    Yes, the seal works fine.

    When i start it up, and immediatley pinch off the fuel, no change happens like it normally does. it runs for 3 seconds at normal idle and then dies.

    any more ideas?

    Thanks!

  10. #10
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    might want to call traxxas phone support they are very helpful ppl.

    i am out of idea's here sorry if i come up with any more help i will post it.


    ohwait did you try this!

    make sure all head bolts are tight?
    also check for airleak around the backing plate and also check to makesure the carb is fully seated.

  11. #11
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    mine used to do that, try adjusting the throttle trim a little bit more to the right, or all the way, it's been working for me
    Sportmaxx and TNX for sale in Houston only. very low prices (stock + complete)

  12. #12
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    if you are adjusting your throttle trim to keep it running, then your idle is not set correctly.
    blue looks like lightning as it blows by!!!! time to break out the nitro and have some fun!!!!

  13. #13
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    Hey, it's probably your OWB, iv heard lots of people have this problem and they change the OWB and HEY PRESTO! If the engine has any restriction then it will most likely run rubbish or just stall

    Good luck anyways

  14. #14
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    Originally posted by Fueled_up
    Hey, it's probably your OWB, iv heard lots of people have this problem and they change the OWB and HEY PRESTO! If the engine has any restriction then it will most likely run rubbish or just stall

    Good luck anyways
    How can you test this? I can spin the crank by hand (i think it's the cracnk) and the engine will compress and turn over without too much of a fight.

    Or do i have to tear it all apart and see?

  15. #15
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    LOL, im not even sure. My REVO hasnt even arrived yet! I would take the bearing out and see if its spinning ok, if not just replace it. Sorry if im wrong guys, Newbie ya see!

  16. #16
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    it can't be the OWB because your engine would not start for 3 seconds!
    now i tried to tighten the nuts(on the head) they are fine...
    i can't call traxxas because that would be long distance call, and i remember few months ago when i called for replacement cable(they put me on hold) my bill came up to like 11cdn(phone bill) just for that phone call....
    i am running out of ideas guys.....

  17. #17
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    traxxas support is toll free. i have the same prob and i checked the OWB and its fine and have done everything you have done, i am ready to pull out the engine and send it to my LHS but i havent had time

  18. #18
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    it's only toll free in USA, i am From CANADA!

  19. #19
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    whoops...MY bad

  20. #20
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    Originally posted by slat26
    whoops...MY bad
    no problem
    anyone has any ideas?
    i am stuck, and i think others too

  21. #21
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    Originally posted by 4G63Turbo


    no problem
    anyone has any ideas?
    i am stuck, and i think others too
    I replaced the OWB today, and that was it. it's working now

  22. #22
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    Sweet enjoy the revo bro......

  23. #23
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    Originally posted by BigGulp


    I replaced the OWB today, and that was it. it's working now
    really?
    i am so happy to hear that, i have a question, did you have to take the engine out to do it?

  24. #24
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    Mine acted the same way when my OWB was bad. I could rev it for a second or two and then it would grab and die. Easy enough to replace and then be on your way.

  25. #25
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    do i have to take out the engine to replace the one way bearing?

  26. #26
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    No, just pull the EZ start off.

  27. #27
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    i tried it but there is the arm which won't let me take it off

  28. #28
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    Originally posted by 4G63Turbo
    i tried it but there is the arm which won't let me take it off
    When I did mine, I just took the motor out. It's only a few screws and is easy to work with once it is out.

  29. #29
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    aight thanks, i ll do that
    thanks guys!

  30. #30
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    Hey! 4G63Turbo, u said it coulndt be the OWB. You made me sad
    lol. and i was right Never mind. Any ways, have fun with your revo biggulp.

  31. #31
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    Originally posted by Fueled_up
    Hey! 4G63Turbo, u said it coulndt be the OWB. You made me sad
    lol. and i was right Never mind. Any ways, have fun with your revo biggulp.
    sorry my bad
    i thought if it would be the one way bearing the flywheel would not turn at all.
    my bad, i will try to change it today!

  32. #32
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    hey, dont worry! its no big deal. i hope you get your revo working aswell. Which color shell you got? good luck

  33. #33
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    Re: It will start and run for about 3 seconds...

    Originally posted by BigGulp
    I can get my Revo to start for 3 seconds, then it quits. I can give it throttle and it reacts accordingly, but still stalls after 3 seconds.
    In my experience when a truck will run for a certain amount of time, there is sometimes an obstruction in the fuel delivery somewhere (typically below the HSN inlet).

    The fuel can gradually pool up enough to let the model start (particularly if it sits for a bit), but not enough to sustain running.
    "We don't see things as they are, we see things as we are." Anais Nin

  34. #34
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    I was having the same problem tonight. The truck would start, then the minitue I gave it gas the thing would react then die. I set all of my needles to factory then tried leaning the low and leaning the high to see if I was still to rich. Idle was okay. Is the OWB on the shaft the goes into the EZ start or in my case a pullstarter. I replaced that rooler bearing in the pull strarter, but still will run then die. I have checked everything I could think of. Any Ideas?

    Thanks,
    Michael "Punk Kid" Deppa

  35. #35
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    guys, i installed the new OWB.
    finished at 10:25PM
    took me around an 2 hours, because i cleaned the engine and around the engine(took it slowly) i coudn't resist, i fire it up on first crank it started, i let it idle for 10 secs and gave it some gas then i shut it off because i didn't want to wake up the neighbours.
    YOOHOOO it's working.
    thanks a lot guys, can't wait to bash again!
    now when i crank it, the ez start is so different, when i press the button on ez start for 1 sec it moves the piston up and down at least 4 times, before it was only like 1.
    so happy.
    ohh and i have a black body
    but man! the owb is 30cdn

  36. #36
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    Sounds very simmaller to my problem, but not quite. Mine will start fine, but almost always will not idle. I can give it medium throttle, and it'll go fine. If I give it full throttle it'll die. I had it so rich that there was tons of blue smoke, and lots of fuel coming out the back, and the temps were around 160's.

    I'm curious if it's not a compression problem because the engine seems to turn over easier by hand than it used to. Unfourtunately I have no compression gauge, and my lhs closed for the winter.

  37. #37
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    Originally posted by Mr Durden
    ...and the temps were around 160's.

    I'm curious if it's not a compression problem because the engine seems to turn over easier by hand than it used to. Unfourtunately I have no compression gauge, and my lhs closed for the winter.
    If you mean 160 farenheit, then that is too low. The engine should be running somewhere past 200 (like 210-220F minimum).

    If it acts like it's overheating but the temps are low, this (in my experience) means it's time to start saving nickels for a new p/s.
    "We don't see things as they are, we see things as we are." Anais Nin

  38. #38
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    Originally posted by ZipTie


    If you mean 160 farenheit, then that is too low. The engine should be running somewhere past 200 (like 210-220F minimum).

    If it acts like it's overheating but the temps are low, this (in my experience) means it's time to start saving nickels for a new p/s.
    That's what I figured, since I couldn't explain it any other way. Oh well, I had to learn how to rebuild one of these sooner or later

  39. #39
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    i get temps from 200 to 250 if that,but my new 2.5r runs very well and it holds a tune! unlike the first 2.5r i had nothing but problems for me

  40. #40
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    Needles

    Hey, I had the same problem with my revo, try making the low speed needle richer, 1/16 of a turn at a time, you may not notice a differece at first so try starting it 2 or 3 times at each setting.

    I know uve probably thought of this as I am only new to the nitro thing. but it must be worth a try as its much simpler than some of the other stuff youve been mentioning.

    Will

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