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  1. #921
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    I have been running on my track pretty often, on warmer days. But wyoming in winter is pretty cold so I haven't run in to many people yet. I can report that I stay on all four wheels more often than not, I don't wreck much, when I do it's because I'm trying to use too much speed on a tight track. lol. I have learned alot, and while I haven't timed any laps I am seeing a bunch of improvement.

    I'm wondering if increasing spring pre load on the front would help with the truck trying to nose over in the air. on larger jumps it's not that much of an issue as throttle control is easy on the way up. Crazily enough my experience riding motocross has a direct corrolation there, but on the whoops/rythm section is where I run in to trouble. I have gone end over end more times than I'd like in that section of the track.


    I should have mentioned that the track is hard packed dirt with some loose on top.
    Last edited by AirJunkie; 12-16-2006 at 04:25 PM.

  2. #922
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    AirJunkie,

    A quick tips for the whoops/rythm section. If they are small and do not actually require jumping, like double double double or something that, if they are small hold about 1/4 throttle through the section. This keeps the nose up a little and keeps the rear from unloading back to the front.

  3. #923
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    For those of you that have been racing 3.3's for a while, How often do you replace you glow plug? If you don't over heat your engine how much time do you seem to safely get?

    Thanks
    Cogito Ergo Zoom. I Think, Therefore, I Drive Fast.

  4. #924
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Joe Racer, I will usually replace a glow plug before a race weekend. It will last all weekend + unless I have leaned it down a bit too much and distort the element. There are those occasional plugs that fould here and there, but it is usally a case of being to lean on the top or bottem end.

    If you are blowing glow plugs constantly, one after another, then you have another issue and should take the head off the engine to see if anything is obviously wrong, like metal deposits on top of the piston or embeded in the head button.

  5. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAMI
    Joe Racer, I will usually replace a glow plug before a race weekend. It will last all weekend + unless I have leaned it down a bit too much and distort the element. There are those occasional plugs that fould here and there, but it is usally a case of being to lean on the top or bottem end.

    If you are blowing glow plugs constantly, one after another, then you have another issue and should take the head off the engine to see if anything is obviously wrong, like metal deposits on top of the piston or embeded in the head button.
    Also, if there are metal deposits on the head button or top of the piston then you are getting "pre-detonation" and must either drop in nitro % or add a shim or 2 to the head. This will cause you to go thru a LOT of glow plugs.

  6. #926
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Or go to a colder plug ;-)

    But, metal in the head button can also be fragments from a bearing that is going bad.

  7. #927
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAMI
    AirJunkie,

    A quick tips for the whoops/rythm section. If they are small and do not actually require jumping, like double double double or something that, if they are small hold about 1/4 throttle through the section. This keeps the nose up a little and keeps the rear from unloading back to the front.
    thanks for the tip, they are about as tall as the truck so that may work.

  8. #928
    RC Racer
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    hello,
    just a heads up,I have been running the 8mm for a year now and they have held up great. Plus I also use the quickturn.
    later Bud
    3.3 rb mod rd racing carriers quick turn teckno

  9. #929
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Awesome to hear Jrt

  10. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Racer
    For those of you that have been racing 3.3's for a while, How often do you replace you glow plug? If you don't over heat your engine how much time do you seem to safely get?

    Thanks
    When you do replace your Glow-plug especially if it fails, check the element and make sure you didn't loose it.

  11. #931
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    Hey atmo, are you running molded foams? If so which ones? I just saw that proline has come out with them.

  12. #932
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    I like the ofna orange the best. I over-stuff with the grey foam 1 inch diameter glued to the wheel then i stuff the tire with the orange foam and stretch them over the wheel. This is lighter and forms the tire better then the yellows. Veneom has some foams coming out as well. Another thing I have noticed is better wear out of my tires. I can't explain why but I have a set of python's with over 2 gallons on them and they still in good condition.

  13. #933
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    Thanks for all the info on the plugs. I haven't been having any problems but just wanted to know what everyone else's experience is. I bought both the yellow and the orange foams and can hardly tell the difference between them. Which ones are firmer? One last thing, how do you tell when you have your low end on your carb set just right? What do you look for when adjusting it?

    Thanks
    Cogito Ergo Zoom. I Think, Therefore, I Drive Fast.

  14. #934
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    the orange are soft and yellow is medium.
    SLASH
    Team Bad Boy Racing
    www.crcrc.com

  15. #935
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    What pipe do you run? I have ran the high flow with the 3.3 and it seems to have the tune were it eats glow plugs, and doesn't like to idle very well. I have since went to a jato resonator side pipe. It has fixed the idling issue. So I would say stick with the stock or Resonator for the Revo

  16. #936
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    I noticed that my recently-received (from Ebay) hard-anodized GTR shocks all have #2 pistons, whereas the stock shocks had #1's in the front. It's getting cold around here with 45F average days so I *may* go slightly lighter on the shock oil than what Slayden recommends (50wt to start). I have a complete selection of springs, but my Q is, should I swap out the front pistons for #1's on the new shocks as well?

  17. #937
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Yes, change them to #1 fronts.

    The original GTR shock kits came with #2 in all four. But the set I got this year had #1s and #2s.

  18. #938
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    i tried to a different set up on the weekend i went with the number ones in the rear and used 70 weight oil and the thing was cornering a lot better and jumped a whole lot better... noe this was just to try different stuff because we were just out there messing around... but on acceleration the front would really come up and the rear would sink low but other than that i was driving the car a 1/2 a sec to 1 sec faster when i compared lap times... i was very suprised.....
    Is there life without a revo in this world........

  19. #939
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    Hey Roy,

    I just ordered the RD racing Axle carriers and 23mm hubs. Since i know you were affiliated with them and all, did you vever have any problems with them?
    RBMods.net

    ZegersRcGraffixx.com

  20. #940
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Hey GeorgiaRcBoi,

    LOL, I designed, prototyped, and refined them. They are good. Use any pillow balls you want. Use Tri-flow or White Lightning for lube on the balls/carriers.

    You will be happy with the reassurance they give

  21. #941
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    Ragamuffin

    It depends on driving style and track conditions. The rougher the track conditions I like and use #1 and adjust my shocks with fluid instead of pistons. It is easier when I am at a race to change shock fluid then it is to change piston's but that's just me. A couple of guys I race with only use the #2. This weekend I'm racing on a indoor small tight smooth track. I'm running #2 with 60k on my fronts with panther lopro's. I want a lot of steering and speed thru the corners and I'm running an 2.5r for my motor.

  22. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAMI
    Hey GeorgiaRcBoi,

    LOL, I designed, prototyped, and refined them. They are good. Use any pillow balls you want. Use Tri-flow or White Lightning for lube on the balls/carriers.

    You will be happy with the reassurance they give
    Thanks, where can i get the lube?
    RBMods.net

    ZegersRcGraffixx.com

  23. #943
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    At any high end bicycle shop. It is teflon/wax based chain lube. Does a great job repelling the dirt as well.

    I went from taking out the pillow balls after every race weekend and cleaning to not touching them for the last 4 or 5 races this year. Just add a drop of the lube.

  24. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAMI
    At any high end bicycle shop. It is teflon/wax based chain lube. Does a great job repelling the dirt as well.

    I went from taking out the pillow balls after every race weekend and cleaning to not touching them for the last 4 or 5 races this year. Just add a drop of the lube.
    Sounds good too me
    RBMods.net

    ZegersRcGraffixx.com

  25. #945
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    No racers posting?? Everybody working, racing, vacation?? Anyone heading to Utah for the indoor gas nats???

  26. #946
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    wing

    I've been questioning myself over whether to get a wing or not
    Wont it decrease your top speed due to air resistance pushing it down?
    wouldn't it be better only for short tight racks?

  27. #947
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    the wing really doesnt do much because you are not going fast enough to accutally create downforce in a way to help you. It is mainly just for looks and to help protect the head of your engine more from scraping on the ground and when you land upside down from jumps and such.
    Revo 3.3-Center diff w/300k,Rear Brake,PL 23mm wheels w/B-T, MS Filter, Trinity Pipe, Extended WB Rear arms, Spektrum DX-3. More to come Jato 2.5- Dual Resonator, 2.2 wheels and tires, Alum. Turns, RPM A-Arms and bumper, Spektrum DX-3 and Servos. More to come

  28. #948
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    I am new to the truck scene (had some boats several years ago) and am looking to do some local racing next spring. I am trying to understand what benefit the center diff has when racing. Is it only to allow for brake bias? I would think it would be better to have it locked as far as forward acceleration goes?
    Revo 3.3, Tekno sway bar kit, center diff

  29. #949
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    The center diff allows power to be sent to the end of the truck(front/rear) with the least traction....so when the front tires is struggling for traction during acceleration, more power will be sent to the front to help regain traction. The center diff also helps on rough and tight tracks. You'll be able to get around the tight corners a little better. On rough and loose tracks you wont spin out so much.

    Everyone else add to this because I probably missed something.

  30. #950
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    anyone have a link for 17mm hubs?
    Revo comin through....

  31. #951
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    Qmak15

    Thanks for the info but I still don't understand why you would want power to go to the wheels that have the least amount of traction. I have a full size bronco that I take off road and the key to going where noone else can is having the diffs locked. I know that is not the same as RC racing but I would still think that you want the wheels with traction to have the same amount of power as the ones without. Ultimately, you would want them to have more but I don't think anyone has figured that out yet. If you could throttle back enough to prevent spinning out I would think that not having a diff would be better but obviously not because everyone adds the center diff.
    Revo 3.3, Tekno sway bar kit, center diff

  32. #952
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    Ok thru a turn the inside wheel has less distance to travel and can go at a slower speed thru the turn than the outside wheel because it has more distance to cover. The diff allows the two tires to spin at different speeds. Thus the inside wheel being off camber can allow the outside wheel to travel as fast as it can without being affected by the inside wheel. Basically we are trying to get as close to limited slip in are diffs. Bye putting a thicker fluid in front you are slowing down the front and transferring power to the rear gives you more acceleration out of the turn. By going thinner in the rear you get better off power cornering. There are less gears and a 2speed tranny that acts different in the lower gears then it does in the higher. So to compensate we put a thicker fluid then a buggy that's has a single speed geared to an overall power range.

    Sorry I didn't answer your ? If you had all or to much power going to the rear your front end will lift and wheelie. So tuning your diffs where you are getting rough track conditions good off power cornering and speed exiting the turn without to much transfer to the rears is tough.
    Last edited by atmo; 01-03-2007 at 04:25 PM.

  33. #953
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    ok so what is a good all around diff setup for the front and rear. i have been racing for over 3 years and have never touched a diff. i think its time i learn .


    here is a link to my track with pics of it http://palomarraceway.com
    Live Fast. Die Fast.

  34. #954
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    If you are running a Revo and no center diff then I would start with 30,000wt. in front and 10,000 in rear. If you have a center diff then I would use 50,000 F, 500,000 C, and 30,000wt. in rear. Good starting point. BTW Kyosho makes the 500,000wt. for the center.

  35. #955
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    i do not run a Center diff yet. I like doing wheelies when i can even tho my revo is now a straight racer i still take er out and mess around in the street with her. I will get the center diff eventually when i move up in engine size. and i fill the diffs up all the way correct?
    Live Fast. Die Fast.

  36. #956
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    Question

    do yuo know if the venom smart temp is reliable, does it give you the true temp, do you use the temp failsafe option.

    sorry for my english

  37. #957
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    So what's the story with the 3.3's rear bearings? Over on the Starting Grid I've read that they've been failing with alarming regularity. This is really bothering me esp. considering I just picked up a new 3.3 last week.

  38. #958
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    Good luck with that.You can expect to get about 3 gallons out of it.

  39. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTPaul
    Good luck with that.You can expect to get about 3 gallons out of it.
    Think I'll sell it and get another OS.

  40. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMaxxKid23
    i do not run a Center diff yet. I like doing wheelies when i can even tho my revo is now a straight racer i still take er out and mess around in the street with her. I will get the center diff eventually when i move up in engine size. and i fill the diffs up all the way correct?
    I would not fill them all the way up, just to the top of the spider gears, let the fluid settle for a few minutes then install the ring gear. This keeps from over-filling and blowing out the gasket and/or cracking the diff case. If you want the corner speed of the center diff then I suggest a quick turn, you can still wheelie!

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