thanks for the info. will try different combos.
What r we talkin about?
My Traxxas Revo 2.5
-Mugen wing mount w/ Jammin CRT wing
-Pro-Line 23mm hubs
-Pro-Line aluminum steering arm
-Golden Horizon aluminum steering hubs
-RPM front arms
-Racers Edge shock ends
-Team Helotes battery
-Spektrum w/ Personal Transponder
-Airtronics 94359 servos
-OS TM .18 w/ Trinity pipe
-Losi LST fuel filter
-Robinson lightweight flywheel
-3M 40 tooth spur
-Traxxas anodized shock bodies
-Integy aluminum rear skid plate
-RD one-way front driveshaft
-Hanger9 tall steering horn
-Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body
-Maxy's Fuel 30%
-2004 Summer Nitrofest Production MT Champion
-2004 R/C Pro Series Production MT #2 in Eastern Division
-2004 R/C Pro Series Production MT #2 in Nation
-2005 Monster Truck Madness @ 17A Raceway Champion
-2005 ROAR Region 3 Production MT Champion
-2005 R/C Pro Series Standard MT #2 in Eastern Division
-2005 R/C Pro Series Standard MT #12 in Nation
-2005 Carolinas Points Chase Production MT Champion
on Saturday (6/3), it ended its career by winning the 4th round of the Carolinas Points Chase @ Dirt Valley in Easley, South Carolina. my Revo 3.3 is in the mail as we speak & will be run for the first time this comin weekend in Charlotte, North Carolina @ the 4th Annual Summer Nitrofest @ The Farm 2.
Jammin / OFNA, Maxy's Pro Racing Fuel,
Native Racing, ZEP, AXE Rossi, XSPower,
Magic X, Fail Racing, kevinsrc.com
can anybody tell me if panther boas os proline crimefighter tires will fit on hurricane wheels
i think they will
Jammin / OFNA, Maxy's Pro Racing Fuel,
Native Racing, ZEP, AXE Rossi, XSPower,
Magic X, Fail Racing, kevinsrc.com
neither are direct fit. I think you can trim the beads to make them fit but it will require some work.
Can anyone tell me what foams that they run in both 23m and stock rims???
thanks
I've been running the Sportraxx two stage foams in both the cut 23mm Wabash and Std. size wheels. Unfortunatly we don't currently offer the foams by themselves.
Shivers
Johnny Ringo Can you post your complete set-up? Like slayden does sometimes on the set-up sheets?
Hip Pocket Racing
revo-world.com
Atmo,
Sure, I'm fixing to head to the Nitro Invite @ JCG for the weekend but will get it posted up when I get back.
Hey JohnnyRingo, which 300k are you using? The only 300k diff oil available at my lhs is this team associated one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFTY0&P=7
Do you think that will be fine with the traxxas diff?
it will work fine.
can anybody tell me where i can get center diff and trans cases for revo. all i could find was rear brake setup. nobody carries the rest. or are they avalible only from traxxas
rcbocca.com they have them in stock
Hip Pocket Racing
revo-world.com
atmo can niot get site to come up is it rcbocca.com
The site is www.rcboca.com
Got nitro?
hi guys,
I'm new to racing and i just ordered the central diff can anybody tell me what oils to use on the front,med and rear,i drive only on asphalt
thanks
30, 300, 10
If you only drive on asphalt, then you may want to do some experimenting so you can let others who only run on asphalt know.Originally Posted by fellini16
Most of us, and I am sure most of those that will run a center diff all run and race dirt offroad. Try a couple of different things and let us know.
30k- 250k- 7k all offroad. Hooks up great. I will try going with 40k-300k-10
Hip Pocket Racing
revo-world.com
so guys how do oils work? will 30 300 10 give me more grip in the back and less grip in the front?
I ran the center diff today with 100k, and it seemed to over rev my 18tz, causing it to kill glow plugs. I went through 4 p3 plugs today (10.00 each). I took the center diff out for the last heat, and the engine ran great, until the spur stripped. Will putting 300k in the center diff help me not over rev the engine?
sounds like the diff was unloading the front or rear wheels.going to a heavier oil will help the center diff from unloading.im not familure with a p3 plug, is that a short plug ? os engines require the use of short plugs.
PROJECT BAJA PEDE
P3 plug is an O.S. turbo plug.
hi guys some great replys here regarding the different types of diff oils to be used with the centre diff. i have just ordered a centre diff from ebay as im in the uk and will be waiting alittle longer im sure.
im running 10 in the rear and 30 in the front, now im sure 100k will be to light for the centre like alot have said. i run on grass mostly and hard packed mud and if any off you do aswell? any recommedations to diff oil for the centre? looks like 250/300k is the way to go.
thanks Rb
Os 18 Tm Racer
Associated and Kyosho make 300K diff fluid.
and now, Kyosho is making a 500K diff fluid
I would recommend starting with the 300K inthe center. I believe most everyone will like it.
My set-up changes with track conditions and such, but I will giive you my general set-up that I would be comfortable running anywhere, and this is what I normally have in my truck.
50K / 300K / 30K
For maximum traction and positive acceleration I try and go as firm (thick) as I can. Then when the truck starts to feel a little too tight, then I'll reduce the viscosity a little to free it up (better rotation in the corners).
Rule of thumb on diffs:
diff fluid too light = excessive unloading, cumbersome handling, sluggish acceleration
diff fluid too thick = stiff handling, twitchy response, more resistant to rotate in the corners
This rule is pretty general and basically works for all three diffs (front, rear & center).
Like I said before, to get the best use of your powerplant and punch out of the corners, thicker fluids will need to be used.
Don't forget that more roatation from the chassis can be found by adjusting the the brake bias more toward the rear.
I use only about 30-40% of front braking power (at full brake) and I get most all of the rear brake power that I can. This loosens the rear in the corners while still providing control and stopping power from the front brake.
I'm not saying that I use max brake in every corner, but that's how it is set-up. It's relative to the amount of brake input.
Awesome, thats alot. I will wait on some 300k at lhs. Thanks Slayden![]()
Slaydaddy thanks for the post. I noticed on your set-up sheet that you ran P1 rockers, or did you run P1 rocker arms on P2 rockers? Can you and the rest of the guys post all your set-up sheets from the different tracks? It makes it alot easier 4 us privatiers to see what you are running.
Hip Pocket Racing
revo-world.com
May I ask why you ran such a difference between front and rear?Originally Posted by JohnnyRingo
The reason I ask is because I ran 50/300/30 and I couldn't get the rear to come around in turns like I did the week before running 30/10. I read Mr. Slayden's comments about setting the rear break bias to help this. Just wondering if running something like you did (60/10 or 50/10) would help getting the rear around.
Running 50/300/30 I was really pleased with how it pulled out of corners but I really struggled coming into turns because i was used to a looser rear end.
Thanks
Last edited by shadowskinner; 06-17-2006 at 05:42 PM.
I have run 10K in the rear since we started racing Revo's. I still don't think I have hit my base setup with the diff, like I have with my suspension, but I am sure it won't take much longer.
I run a TON of rear brake bias to get the truck to pivot in the corner, and though it isn't how I normally drive, it seems to get around the track fairly well.
But to answer your question directly, I have yet to start altering the rear diff oil as the 10K seems to work well. I have primarily been making changes to the center and front diff. I'm actually going to run a QT and the diff and see how it feels as well.
Shivers
Last edited by JohnnyRingo; 06-17-2006 at 09:02 PM.
rite now iam running stock oil in the front and rear diffs with no center diff and iam having problems getting into the corners and also in sweepers.the truck just pushes out. iam running slaydens silver state set up from 2006 as this most mimics the track i race on. iam tho not running the p1 rockers.
should i mess around withthe diffs ?
PROJECT BAJA PEDE
JohnnyRingo
Question about the push rod hole location. What is your rule of tumb about when or when not to place the push rods in the far outer hole?
I would like to see my rev 2.5 w/ a 3.3 motor and stock gearing 16/38 and 40wt shock oil in all 4 corners be a little more planted. Like maybe a jamin truck which I know it's not. But it has this spring thing to it and not just my truck. Guy all use the middle hole Why because I guess you said so, I don't know so I figured I'll ask
Im not Ringo but my rule of thumb is the more rutted the track the closer they should be. When the track is smooth and pretty flat with minimal rutts then spread them farther away to get a lower stance and more planted truck. The more rutted the more suspension, the smoother it is the lower you should go. You gotta really try it on your own at the track and determine what works for your driving style tho. Just keep that as a baseline so you can easily make adjustments during practice time and get the best setup you can.
Now I know, I'll have to practice to get the right setup it not just go what a posted set-up but try and find a mix that works best for me. Thats Racing Thanks
tazman,
The hole location on the a arms is a ride height adjustment. What rockers are you using? If you are having a "spring thing" then you need to look at some other parts of your setup. Roll center (upper suspension arm hinge pins) front and back. Are they in the lower holes? Upper holes? What shock springs are you using? What is your ride height (axles level, arms level,etc.) front and rear?
It's hard to figure out exactly what problem you are having only knowing what shock oil you are using.
BTW, my REVO is way more planted than my Jammin CRT![]()
RD Racing, would you please post your setup for a fast, smooth, low bite track?Originally Posted by RD Racing
A couple posts up I described the issue I was having in the back end not coming around in corners after I switched to the center diff and going from 30/10 to 50/30 diff fluid. We have a long sweeping corner and then a 40 ft straight. The week before the center diff I could hit second in the middle of the sweeper and hammer down through the straight because the rear would come around slightly. With the center diff, I would have to goose the throttle a little longer in the sweeper until later because it pretty much wants to go forward with the center diff, which is the purpose I guess. I'm thinking maybe switching to Bowtie MT's in the back (currently CF MT's all the way around) might help this but I've only been racing a few weeks so I don't have much experience with different setups. Just wondering if running diffs at 50/10 might help also with kicking the rear out some.
Thanks.
hi guys, got my centre diff delivered from the u.s to the uk todayi have allready stripped the diffs and added 50k/300k/30k. havent run it yet but fills much better. that 300k is thick
thanks for the replys and help everyone.
Rb
My Set Up
Os 18 Tm 38/16 Gearing
Traxxas Resonator Pipe
Ofna Violator 145cc Tank Mod
Custom Anodised Black Extended chassis
Carbon Fibre Hinge Pins
Centre Diff
Diff Set Up 50K/300K/30K
Rear Brake Set Up
Close Ratio Gears
Forward Only Conversion
Hi Tec Srx Tx With Spektrum Module
Spektrum Voltage Protector
Proline Single Steering Arm
Hi Tec 945 Steering
Hi Tec 925 Throttle
Rpm Rcgt10 Reciever Box
Custom 2200 Mah Battery
Rpm Axle Carriers
Xtreme Racing Carbon Fibre Throttle Mount Mod (black)
Mugen Wing Mount + Black Wing
Motor Saver Filter On Stock Neck
Traxxas GTR Hard Anodised Teflon Coated Tin Shafts
30 Wt Oil + Gold Springs R
30 Wt Oil + Orange Springs F
New Era Shock Ends
New Era Rod Ends
P2 Rockers
Black Shock Socks
23mm Dace Adapters
23mm Narrowed Dishes With Crimefighters
23mm Dishes With Hong Nor Predators
Je Screw Kit
Os 18 Tm Racer
sick ride revo boy
The reason I run thicker oil as much as I can is for the (more) positive acceleration that I get out of the corners.
There's more to chassis set-up than just the diffs. There are many reasons -why my trucks steer very well even though I run thick diff fluid.
Here are some key areas to adjust to get the most out of your steering.
1. Steering mods for max throw - You MUST get the maximum amount steering throw out of the front end if you want to get the best steering possible. check out my Pit Pass page for the Revo series of articles that explain this mod
2. Weight bias - this is prolly the most over-looked set-up feature available. I run a 49% front weight bias. Most peoples' trucks hover around 47%. You would be VERY suprised at how much extra steering 2% can give you. Remember that when you shift weight to the front you are also losing the weight in the rear. This will help the truck rotate better and jump more consistently. My Revo articles explain this too.
3. Rear toe - don't forget about this setting. I adjust this setting quite a bit throughout a race weekend when I need more (or less) steering. It's a simple and quick adjustment that can be performed in pit lane. The center diff provides more rear bite, so you don't need to run as much rear toe as you did with the solid center shaft. I run only about 2-degrees of rear toewith the center diff, and then I adjust this as I need more or less steering.
4. Brake bias - I mentioned this before. More rear bias will get the truck to rotate going into a corner under braking power. Of course this will not help once you are back on the throttle but it is a critical setting when running on tight tracks.
These are prolly the most critical areas to work with. Of course there are many more adjustments to get steering. For those that haven't checked out my Revo articles, you really should. It explains most everything that is discussed on this thread, except the new accessories like the center diff and rear brake. I'll be working on new articles for that stuff very soon. Check it out.
Slaydaddy (or anyone),
How do you set your rear toe? I have set my front toe by measuring (I run 0 degrees), but I want about 2 degrees in the rear. I know how to physically change it, but how do I know I have 2 degrees?
thnx