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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Suddenly engine wont stay running, dies when I remove EZstart

    Glow plug looks ok and emits bright, not as bright as a new one but good enough from ones I used in the past.

    Can this be the culprit? It starts then dies when I remove the EZ start or give it throttle. It doesnt need to be warmed up its like `100 today in NY


    Suggestions? I dont have any plugs on hand at the moment to test

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier RC-Parts's Avatar
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    I think you already found the culprit.
    When you get a new plug, pick up some extras.
    Keep On Wrenchin'

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    i figured but since it glows i wanted to still ask some of you

    i have maybe 30tanks on this plug

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJatoNYC
    i figured but since it glows i wanted to still ask some of you

    i have maybe 30tanks on this plug
    That's lots... Time for a new plug.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    Just a note,

    First up replace the plug..

    The glowplug LED is a great enhancment in the ez-start starter however if the plug does not burn down to its full length the LED will light but the plug will not ignite or only ignite for a small amount of time..

    So there u go! Any time you remove a power source and a engine shuts off you can bet its the battery or power source

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Hey guys I replaced the plug just ow. It fires up and idles rough no matter how much I tune it. it bogs then when I hit the throttle it shuts down. No adjustments I made to the carb have helped. I think the plug wasnt the main issue here.

    Now I just looked at the HSN and see where the fuel tubing goes in there is alot of crud/oil build up on the carb body.

    Something tells me the carb body is somehow leaking possibly?

    I kept posting that the carb was coming loose all the time and i really tightend it up last time and it is not loose at this time.

    I never had this oily residue on the carb body before. Maybe the HRN brass fitting is stripped into the body who knows but something is just not right. Last time I ran it it was 100% 2 weeks ago, no crashes nothing so im a bit surprised as to what happened.

    Any suggestions on how I can test this without tearing the car down?

  7. #7
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    I had the same problem..I started on the same path as you by replacing pluga, tubing... still had problems. Then a carb rebuild (new seals.. the works). Then tried new fuel...nope! Then my other rc with os cv .18 had the same problem after A long upside down WOT, so I replaced the connecting rod that fixed the problem. So I went back to the JATO thinking the same thing by replacing the connecting rod. Still didn't work! I ended up by having to replace the sleeve/cylinder component to get it to finally run. In my opinion, your timing has somehow been thrown off if it fails to run/well after the initial glow power source is removed. My advice is to start by replacing your connecting rod.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
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    I think the easier choice would be to remove and disassemble the carb, then soak it all in denatured alchohol to clean it. Once done reassemble it with new seals and replace the fuel lines, this time including a fuel filter to prevent crud from getting into the engine.
    Jammin X1cr NR 528xr 8port
    LSP-R NR 528xr 8port

  9. #9
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    I was also stuck on the fuel system failure route. It makes total sense. But after hours, days and money spent on trial and error, I moved to combustion and found the problem on both counts.

  10. #10
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    Yeah, but a jug of denatured alcohol and 30 minutes of your time will cost almost nothing next to replacing the conrod. Also easier to do.

    I'd go after the carb first.
    Jammin X1cr NR 528xr 8port
    LSP-R NR 528xr 8port

  11. #11
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    Agreed. I thought the fuel system has already been trouble shooted. I would def. start with that first.

  12. #12
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    I dont think the con rod or piston is the issue but the fuel and air delivery

    I did bore out my carb a while back maybe it cracked and I cant see it.

    I will drive today to get a replacement body. My fuel lines are new

    I did notice before i changed them the other day pureley for looks that fuel was leaking on the carb inlet just a little.

    So since this never occured the only other thing I did was install a new radio the 3PM FS and all the throttle parameters are perfect it just wont stay running.


    Ill report back later or on Sunday with my results

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJatoNYC
    I dont think the con rod or piston is the issue but the fuel and air delivery

    I did bore out my carb a while back maybe it cracked and I cant see it.

    I will drive today to get a replacement body. My fuel lines are new

    I did notice before i changed them the other day pureley for looks that fuel was leaking on the carb inlet just a little.

    So since this never occured the only other thing I did was install a new radio the 3PM FS and all the throttle parameters are perfect it just wont stay running.


    Ill report back later or on Sunday with my results


    I would never try to modify my trx motors...they are as hopped up as you will get them, anything else could be costly

  14. #14
    RC Racer
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    Ok no carb bodies in stock anywhere so I remove the engine and cleaned with DA very carefully. No cracks or wear from what I can see. I blew the entire carb with compressed air, fitted new O rings and reinstalled.

    I did notice a score on the inside of the crank case where the carb mounts, I think from when I locked the crank down a few weeks ago it made a minor scratch nothing huge but can this be the problem???

    I also switched plugs again.

    Starts up and same thing it wont idle or run only if I hold the EZstart on it and give it gass it stays running.

    I had it idling for like 40 seconds the most then it just dies.

    I repeplaced the fuel tubing. My friend also said maybe the fuel is bad
    I took some fuel from a new gallon as the fuel I was using was sitting in my truck for weeks in the heat.

    I started it again and it sounded like victory until i hit the throttle

    Just falls on its face.

    I think something can be seriously wrong inside the engine and I cant pin point this problem. I also dont want to keep feeding money into this thing I rather just sell it now. Im a bit frustrated as I wanted to race today.

    Any suggestions?

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier RC-Parts's Avatar
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    Have you made any adjustments to the low speed needle?
    If not, that could be a problem.

    Then, I would check the compression.
    It sounds like you may have ingested something, but the EZstart being on it to run doesn't make any sense to me.
    Roll the engine over with the flywheel and see if you have any back pressure and can hear the motor pop as it rotates by hand.
    If it's easy or it plops instead of pops, you've got a bad motor.
    You can also, pull the head to check for scoring on the sleeve.
    It just takes a couple of tiny scratches to affect your ability to run.
    Keep On Wrenchin'

  16. #16
    RC Racer
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    Victory problem fixed and I just got back from running a full quart

    Ok what I did just for the **** of it I removed the cylinder head, soaked that in DA blew it out with air and cleaned the crud around the glow plug hole and I cleanced the surface of the crank case where it mated up to.

    Now I have been using MCoy MC59 plus I had the 30 tank plug i then isntalled an new MC59 and lo luck but in my tool box I had an OS LC3 Hot Plug

    I put everything back and bingo she is running

    Now I have no idea what caused this maybe defective plugs from MCoy or the crus near the glow plug hole create an air picked or something, also the cylinder head bolts are not very tight this could have alo been an issue


    well I am back and running now

  17. #17
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    Congratulations.
    It's great to hear that you found the problem.
    Two bad glow plugs in a row, what are the odds?
    Way to wrench!!!!!
    Keep On Wrenchin'

  18. #18
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    reply

    I had the same problem with my Jato after changing glo plug. LHS sold me medium traxxas plug. Switched to hot plug and have'nt had any problems since.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJatoNYC
    Hey guys I replaced the plug just ow. It fires up and idles rough no matter how much I tune it. it bogs then when I hit the throttle it shuts down. No adjustments I made to the carb have helped. I think the plug wasnt the main issue here.

    Now I just looked at the HSN and see where the fuel tubing goes in there is alot of crud/oil build up on the carb body.

    Something tells me the carb body is somehow leaking possibly?

    I kept posting that the carb was coming loose all the time and i really tightend it up last time and it is not loose at this time.

    I never had this oily residue on the carb body before. Maybe the HRN brass fitting is stripped into the body who knows but something is just not right. Last time I ran it it was 100% 2 weeks ago, no crashes nothing so im a bit surprised as to what happened.

    Any suggestions on how I can test this without tearing the car down?
    Sounds like you went to a colder plug. Changing heat ranges will change your tuning. BTW, the Traxxas original equipment plug is classified as Med. Most TWX engines around here run a Hot plug. When you go hotter, you actually advance the timing. As long as the weather is not too hot, you will get more power with no detonation.

  20. #20
    RC Enthusiast
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    I had the same problem with the McCoy Glow Plugs that my LHS sold me.
    Right from out of the package they would only stay running if you had the ezstarter on it. If you compare the McCoy to the Traxxas the element is much thicker and bigger and I felt that the bigger element wouldn't stay hot. I now have MEGATECH Q series MTC16192 platinum/Iridium Glowplugs and not a problem since. My LHS even started carrying them since they work so well. The Traxxas Glowplugs always seem to be back ordered here in Canada

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