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  1. #1
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    so are stock T-maxx 3.3 drive shafts and axles a good upgrade?

    I see a lot of people talking about the T-maxx 3.3 drive shafts and axle as a good, inexpensive alternative to CVD's and better than the stock e-maxx shafts, is that the general consensus? This is for a stock, Titan powered e-maxx if that helps, no brushless or anything....

    If so, are any parts or modifications required to make them fit beyond a set of 4 assembled shafts and 2 half-shafts? They are pictured here:


  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. bashin Maxxer15's Avatar
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    I think they are a very good upgrade, I have them and I love them. You will also need a set of the 3.3 steering knuckles and 3.3 turnbuckles.
    It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yeah they r a very good upgrade. the shaft is bigger and designed much better so it holds up a lot better. As bashin Maxxxer said u will need the 3.3 knuckles and 3.3 turnbuckles.
    Want a TJ wrangler near Louisville, KY under $4000

  4. #4
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    great, I just bought a set of the axles, half-shafts, and the turnbuckles for $38....now I just need to find a set of steering knuckles, anyone know where I can pick up a set? I checked ebay but came up empty....

    oh, and does anyone know if the aluminum frame from the new T-maxx 3.3 will fit on an e-maxx?

  5. #5
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    It'll fit. The servos are in a different location though. Not sure what else is rearranged between the two, but that for sure.

    And where do you intend to put the battery packs?
    Last edited by batjerk; 10-25-2006 at 06:00 PM.
    It didn't have enough power... so, I rewired it!

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    You can MAKE the chassis for the t-maxx work with e-maxx parts, but it will take some modification, work, and creative thinking, just as we are making the electric revos out of e-maxx parts with a revo chassis and suspension.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  7. #7
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    for the halfshafts you need to replace the yokes on the rabbit ears that connects to the tranny. You'll need part 5458X (yokes/grub screws). Also, you'll need part 5452 (crosspins) to connect those suckas on. I thought I could force the new yokes on the existing halfshaft crosspin, but those yokes are thick as heck.

    as for the steering knuckles, search for axle carriers, the other name for them. There are a couple or so there right now
    Every battle is won before it is ever fought.-S.T.

  8. #8
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    yeah I don't care about the aluminum t-maxx frame so much, just a thought, I'm not to the point where I can custom fab parts or do any custom work besides dremel grinding and hole drilling....(had to do some grindin on my Pede yesterday to make the 7-cells fit)

    I found a set of steering knuckles finally, probably pick em up from ebay for a decent price...

    what about the t-maxx 3.3 bulkheads, worthwhile upgrade? Do I need the shock towers to go with it or will the e-maxx ones work?

    Thanks for all the info guys, I want to make my e-maxx more durable but I don't want the added weight and cost of metal parts, I'm just gonna be bashing, not racing.....I am already adding aluminum skids and servo guards...probably add 1/2 a pound right off the bat.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Dremeling and grinding would be all that is required. You just have to make the hole accept the e-maxx tranny (it may already, but I don't think so) and you have to find a place to mount battery trays. The t-maxx conversions i've seen had the e-maxx trays cut from an e-maxx chassis and screwed onto the t-maxx chassis about where they would be on the e-maxx chassis.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  11. #11
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    thanks for the link! That doesn't look too bad, I might be able to tackle it if I can find a frame for cheap

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Yeah, shouldn't be too bad. Worst part is making the shifter work, which would still not be too bad.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  13. #13
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    I'm just curious: whats the point in using the T Maxx chasis?
    No he's not the Tom from M-Space!

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Well, if you want to run a good aluminum chassis I guess this is a good way to go, and fairly cheap. Other than just wanting an aluminum chassis, nothing I guess.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. bashin Maxxer15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by family77

    what about the t-maxx 3.3 bulkheads, worthwhile upgrade? Do I need the shock towers to go with it or will the e-maxx ones work?

    .
    I have the 3.3 bulkheads and they seem to be a good bit stronger than stock and for $7 for 4, they are not too bad.
    It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand.

  16. #16
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    Need Help Ordering these Emaxx upgrades...

    Guys, I am about to order the upgrades for my e to use with my Novak brushless system.

    I wanted to know which parts to get as I am new to this. I see on Novaks's site they recommend about $300 bones worth of upgrades but I was told I only needed idlers and to upgrade tot he 3.3 driveshafts?

    If anyone has the part numbers for this I would be appreciative of the info. I can find these things on ebay if I knew what to look for!!

    Or if there are any other opinions about what to upgrade for my first BL experience than let me know...

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Um, the idlers should be on rc-monster.com, and someone else carries them as well. They will simply be listed as e-maxx steel idler. You need one for single speed, or two if you stay 2-speed. That should work on e-bay too, e-maxx steel idler. I'm not sure about all the parts needed to go 3.3 shafts, but there have been several threads lately, I'll look around and get back later.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  18. #18
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    thanks man...I appreciate the help..I will chek this thread later as well....

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  20. #20
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    if the shafts r longer, could u just cut them down?? curious.
    also, is the axels larger??
    MAXX STANG!!! King of the street!!

  21. #21
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    HEELLLPPPP!!!! This thing still will not wheelie ...I get good acceleration and speed but still no wheelie even after adjusting the slipper.....Where is the thread on how to properly adjust it.?

    When I take off the rubber cover, if I screw the nut there the motors turn as well and it doesnt go anywhere....My LHS adjusted it for me supposedly but I dont know man....this is a link of a small video I shot with my digital camera.

    http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCI0058.flv
    Last edited by nitrolijah72; 10-29-2006 at 04:05 PM.

  22. #22
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    is the slipper cranked down????and what kind of batteries are u using??
    If its not broken then you arent driving to your ability

  23. #23
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    How do I crank the slipper down...maybe I am not following the instructions correctly. I am using GP3300's from Radio Shack....6 cells not 7 as of now.

  24. #24
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    Your slipper clutch may be loose. I was trying to listen for it in the video, but there is too much noise. Do you hear a whining (not the motors) when giving it power?
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  25. #25
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    noise?

    No I only hear what I have always heard coming from it. It isnt a whining noise but it does make a definite loud sound. I took it to my LHS and supposedly the guy tightened the slipper but it still will not wheelie althought the power seems to be good.

    When I follow the instructions in the manual to tighten or adjust the slipper clutch the motors turn while I am trying to tighten it and it doesnt appear to be doing anything.

    Am I doing it wrong? I am using good gp3300's for my power source.

  26. #26
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    Whining noise?

    Could it be how it is geared? This truck is brand new, delivered to me on Wednesday of last week new in the box. I have not doen anything to it as of yet. Brushless is my next move and some other bulletproofing but other than that it runs great except for the power on takeoff.

    Again when I turn the nut with my hand to tighten it (according to the instructions) the motors turn as well and it doesnt tighten anything. Is this the wrong way?
    Last edited by nitrolijah72; 10-29-2006 at 06:40 PM.

  27. #27
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    your emaxx sounds EXACTLY like mine did when I first got it and the pinion gear(s) mesh was too tight, mine wouldn't wheelie either and it sounded like a box of gravel, just like yours. Loosen the mesh on your pinions, that's what I did and it totally changed the character of the truck

    and as far as adjusting the slipper, I had the same problem on my stampede, you have to grab the spur gear with your hand FIRMLY and then try to adjust the nut. If it still isn't adjusting but the spring and nut are both turning, then grab the little bit of bolt that is sticking out of the slipper clutch with a pair of locking pliers and use an open-ended wrench to turn the slipper nut.

    At this point, I still wasn't able to adjust it so I had to remove everything and grab the gear on the other side of the slipper bolt, on the same side as the motors....try that but hopefully you can get it just by grabbing the spur gear with your hands.

  28. #28
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    thanks man..that was driving me crazy...LOL I will do just what you said...ppreciate it.....

  29. #29
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    just to be sure I dont mess up anything..could you give me some steps on how to loosen the mesh on the pinions?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrolijah72
    just to be sure I dont mess up anything..could you give me some steps on how to loosen the mesh on the pinions?
    I sent you a PM with instructions, hope that fixes your problem!

  31. #31
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    thanks dude for the help.....I will keep you posted....

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrolijah72
    Again when I turn the nut with my hand to tighten it (according to the instructions) the motors turn as well and it doesnt tighten anything. Is this the wrong way?
    Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

    If the motors are spinning, keep turning it. Once the transmission engages, it will tighten.


    One thing I over looked. Are your tires glued? I have a picture to demonstrate why that is important. Hold on a second.

    Okay... Look at this picture. See how the rear rims (wheels) are spinning and the tires are not. That could be your problem. I still haven't glued those lol...

    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-29-2006 at 07:48 PM.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  33. #33
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    LOL....nice pic!!, however I DID glue the tires as instructed but still it doesnt perform like I thought it would. Hey that's a pretty nice looking ramp in the background.....any specs on it? Looking to build one this week.

    I attempted to loosen the mesh on the pinions but I dont think I am savvy or confident enuf yet..I am afraid I wil mess something up...if there were pictures to instruct me, I would feel better but I may just drop by my LHS tomorrow....

  34. #34
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    I'll dig up my thread from when I made that ramp... Hold on.

    Sorry... Got side tracked... Here you go:
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=327977


    Take a piece of printer paper and put it between the gears. Then move the pinions to the spur. Tighten the motor screws. Then roll the paper out. If the paper should have a nice, even, gear mark on it.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 10-29-2006 at 08:56 PM.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  35. #35
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    WOW BIIIIGGG difference. I adjusted the pinions as instructed to the letter and what a big difference it made. Darn near flipped over and it just might once I get it out on the construction site tomorrow. Thanks Cooleocool for the advice.....and the plans for the ramp..you da man

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    The motor shouldn't turn when you tighten the slipper.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  37. #37
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    They will if the tranny is not engaged yet... If you turn the nut with out holding the spur gear, the spur will turn until the tranny engages and stops it. In the mean time, the motors turn because the spur is turning the pinions.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Yeah, they will turn for a short time, but I think the best way is to hold the spur still while you tighten, then they won't move. I've personally just always thought this way was best.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  39. #39
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    Yes, but if you just want to make a slipper adjustment with out removing the gear cover, just pull the rubber plug and adjust away. Much easier than removing the cover and all that. Especially when you're out running the truck...
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  40. #40
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    I tightened the slipper by holding the spur , hey maybe it wasnt "suppossed" to do it but it did and I adjusted and made the corrections per your expeert advice....

    Again thanks cooleocool for the advice, it helped out. I dont know about that ramp though LOL I found a cheaper, easier plan for one in one of the RC mags that I already have the wood, screws and hinges for. It looks god though.....

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