Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Plattsburgh, New York (way upstate)
    Posts
    19

    Pro Diffs Electric vs. Pro Diffs Nitro

    When I upgrade the diffs on my E 4tec should I go with the pro diffs for the electric or the pro diffs(nitro version), or are they the same? Also, is there a need for any other conversion after the upgrade?

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Milford/Loveland,Ohio
    Posts
    2,354
    get electric cause its made for it

  3. #3
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Plattsburgh, New York (way upstate)
    Posts
    19
    The reason I'm asking is because I'm putting a Novak BL 4.5 system in it and I need something that isn't going to come apart under that type of power. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    louisiana
    Posts
    449
    iwould try the nitro and if it fits i would go with 2,and fill with diff clay

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    1,783
    I thing it would handle horribly when locked.
    No one ever really dies.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. razer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Streetsboro, Ohio
    Posts
    15,087
    The strongest would be the gear diffs in the 3.3 Nitro 4-Tec. I don't know what you'd have to do to get the nitro diffs to fit though.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    louisiana
    Posts
    449
    they would diffentally be better we all should know that,they made for going 70 mph

  8. #8
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    179

    4 Tec diffs

    Having gone through several stock plastic ball diffs with a MM 5700 and 10 cells, i installed the Nitro gear diffs from a 3.3. The front goes in the housing without the bearing adapters and the rear requires the 3.3 bearing adapters. The rear adapters are available by purchasing the rear bulkheads for the 3.3.
    The aluminum pro ball diffs available for the 4 tec are hard to find and are fairly expensive @ $60.00 ea. I have not tried these.
    The 3.3 gear diffs hold up well under the abuses of increased torque from brushless. Silicone Paste in the front diff stiffens it enough and silicone lube of your choice in the rear. (35w-40w silicone shock lube.)
    I also run 30mm foams or 31mm rubber on asphalt w/6 cells.
    Bus

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    We-Go, Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,908
    Not only are the N4T ball diffs hard to find, but there is no such thing for the E4T. Something to keep in mind is that the E4T and the N4T have different number of "teeth" on their pulleys, I think it's 32 on the E4T and 34 on the N4T. That will change the acceleration and top speed of the vehicle if you go to the N4T diffs. The diff internals on the N4T are the same planetary arrangement as what's used on the Rusty's, Pede's, Bandit, and Nitro Sport.

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Plattsburgh, New York (way upstate)
    Posts
    19
    I appreciate the feedback. It sounds to me like the best bet is going to be to go with the gear diffs. It also sounds like with either their will be some fabrication involved. I have a Novak GTB ESC on the way and coupling that with the 4.5 brushless that is in a box "dying" to go in...I'm just worried about tearing things up. I understand that it'll be a break some stuff upgrade some stuff scenario....I guess that's just part of it. Thanks again.

  11. #11
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    179
    The component that fails is #4281. It is soft metal and the threads on the nut strip out. A solution is to disassemble and clean/degrease one of the diffs for the front. Remove the #4287 components and replace with a small spacer (3mm). Remove the diff balls too. Coat 4360 inside both sides and 2722 (2 ea) with epoxy (JB weld). Reassemble and lightly tighten 4281. Clean up excess epoxy and let it cure overnight. This gives you a solid front diff and will hold up to the torque of a brushless motor. This is used for rubber on high traction surfaces (concrete or asphalt).
    The rear is usually set loose and is not prone to failure because it is not run as tight as the front, however #4281 can fail if you over tighten it.
    Use the better carbide balls and grease if possible in the rear and break the diff in easy to start. Only tighten it lightly after several runs.
    I went with the 3.3 gear diffs in the second 4 Tech to give some tuning options. It is 200mm wide (nitro dimensions) with 31mm rubber and is not a legal mod. Outlaw is all they let me run locally with other nitros.
    The 5700 and 3s lipo gives 'em a good run, some frowns, some scoffs, and some grins. No sounds, no smells, and all good fun, with a few "What is that thing?"
    Bus

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •