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  1. #1
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    Mamba 5700 - if you have one please post!

    OK Im trying to do some research on what people are running in their Rustlers with a MM5700.

    1. What pinion and spur combo are you using?

    2. What temps are you running at the motor?

    3. What temps are you running at the ESC?

    4. Are you running a heatsink on the motor? If so which one?

    5. Do you have FLM's aluminum trany or stock trany?

    6. What batteries are you running(GP,IB,Lipo,ect...)? And how many cells?

    7. Are your motor wires soldered to the motor?

    8. What wheels and tires are you running?

    Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure some things out.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by chopndroptx; 05-06-2007 at 12:18 AM.

  2. #2
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    1. 18/87

    2. Not sure on temps, but around 150-160 after 2 GP 3300s (haven't put Deans on my new pack yet).

    3. ESC is hotter, but I don't have a temperature gauge.

    4. No Heatsink

    5. Stock tranny with exception to the Traxxas Aluminum Idler gear (MUST have for EVERY Rustler, not just the Mambafied ones).

    6. 6 cell "Shack Pack" (Radio Shack GP 3300)

    7. Motor wires are stock, except some electrical tape to cover up the insulation where it got torn up by wheelies

    8. Dirt Works in the front (very good tires, in the front at least), and rear I run Gladiators for traction (but they wear fast), Geolandars for lifespan, and Dirt Hawgs for traction/lifespan.

    Be sure to let me know if you have any more questions.

  3. #3
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    1. 14t pinon, 87t spur

    2. 160 deg F

    3. 130 deg f

    4. nope

    5. stock

    6. 6cell nihms, 3s Li-Ion's

    7. Just using standard connectors

    8. HPI 5 spoke rims on Moabs tires
    My maxx is wider then yours!
    emaxx|3 Rusty's

  4. #4
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    1. 19/86
    2. like 140-160

    3. ????

    4. no

    5. stock tranny

    6. GP3300 6 cell, the shark 1500 nicd and some 2400 teamorion nicads that are like 4 years old

    7. no, wires are braides

    8. traxxas wheels and hpi geolandars
    Rustler XL-5 ~ Mamba Max 5700

  5. #5
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    1. 18/87

    2. ~160

    3. ~100

    4. no heatsink

    5. stock tranny case

    6. 6cell, 7cell, 12cell tenergy setups

    7. motor wires not soldered

    8. dirt hawgs on traxxas 2.2 wheels
    Brushless is the new Nitro

  6. #6
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    1. 19/90
    2. After a 7 cell run, 160, after a 10 cell run, 180
    3. Never gets past 140
    4. No heatsink
    5. Stock tranny with steel idler
    6. 6 and 7 cell GP3300's, and a little 3 cell pack for when I want to do 10 cells.
    7. Hardwired wires
    8. Worn down Dirt Hawgs all around

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the replies!!! Keep them coming please!!!

  8. #8
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    OK if your interested on why Im doing this I will tell you. I am having major overheating issues with my 5700 motor.
    I have a Pede with the same setup and my motor temps on it only get to 130-140 with aluminum trany and 15/86 gearing.
    I have had CC send me a new motor since my 1st one got to 240 degrees on the Rustler. And I have swapped ESC to see if that was the problem. It wasnt. And I have nothing binding on my Rustler, with the trany notched so the motor can breathe better. Here is my setup.

    1. What pinion and spur combo are you using?
    See below!

    2. What temps are you running at the motor?
    12/90 about 170-185 when the pack starts to die
    15/86 about 180 1/2 the way thru a pack
    15/90 with new ESC 195 about 1/2 way thru a pack
    18/86 about 185 1/2 of the way thru a pack

    3. What temps are you running at the ESC?
    140 or so

    4. Are you running a heatsink on the motor? If so which one?
    No heatsink

    5. Do you have FLM's aluminum trany or stock trany?
    Stock trany

    6. What batteries are you running(GP,IB,Lipo,ect...)? And how many cells?
    IB4200 7 cells ( I also run them in my Pede with no probs)

    7. Are your motor wires soldered to the motor?
    No they are not

    8. What wheels and tires are you running?
    Stock Stampede wheels and tires(Talons)

    I see most of my setup is the same as everyone elses. I cant figure out for the life of me why I am having such heat issues.
    I also have these settings on my ESC:
    Start Power=Low( I have tried all three/Just use low to save battery)
    Punch Control=100%
    Timing=Lowest

    These are the only things thats should effect the motor heat I would think. And my Pede is setup the same way.

    Tomorrow I am going to call CC and see what they have to say.

  9. #9
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    i run stock gearing all ive done for the tranny was buy a alum idle gear. i run gp3300s and a racers edge 1500. with the gps i run 12 cells and it hold up great. so far i ran talons and snake eyes(proline) they hook up pretty good. motor and esc temps are low. wires are stock from CC and i run deans on all my batteries.
    fight for what you believe, no matter the risk

  10. #10
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    I have Deans and the Idler gear also. Forgot to add that!

  11. #11
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    man, I dont know what to say. Maybe a new esc....? This is no good for ya.
    My maxx is wider then yours!
    emaxx|3 Rusty's

  12. #12
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    It sounds like one of your bearings is locked up in your tranny, and the bearing shaft is riding on the inside bearing ring. You might not notice it while just spinning the wheels to check for binding, but after your mm5700 runs for about 10 minutes at 40,000+ rpm, I'd bet that things would get hot (friction) if you had a seized bearing. The shaft will still spin on the bearings inner ring, but after a while it'll get hot because of so much friction. I'd check the wheel bearings too just to rule out the bearings. Hope that helps.

  13. #13
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    You know I have pulled the trany apart to replace the stripped diff, I dont notice anything as far as the bearings, but I didnt inspect real close because eveything rolls pretty smooth.
    Maybe I need to double check.

  14. #14
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    OK just pulled it apart again, all the bearings are rolling freely. So not problem there. And the wheel bearing are new, RPM carriers.

  15. #15
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    That's weird. I don't know man. I know this sounds weird, but do you have "brushless" selected for the motor type? That's all I can think of besides a bad solder joint on your battery if you're using Deans. If one of your battery wires isn't getting full continuity through to the esc/motor, I could see that causing a heat issue. Good luck with it.

  16. #16
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    Ya its set to brushless, and as far as the deans are concerned I have soldered for over 6 years now. So hopefully that wouldnt be the problem. lol
    That and I tried my other ESC and still had the same results. I am running out of things to check, trying not to blame CC unless I know I have something to back it up.
    Guess Im going to try swapping with my other motor today sometime and see what happens.
    Just hard to believe I would have gotten 2 bad motors in a row.

  17. #17
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    Just a couple off the wall questions...

    Which temp gun do you have and what do you have the emissivity set to ?
    Have you checked the temps at your motor/esc connectors ?
    ------
    hmmm, I've never seen it spelled that way.

  18. #18
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    Im using a Duratrax IR temp gun, seems pretty accurate, and its new.

    Not sure on emissivity????

    And no I havent checked the temps at the connections. I figured swapping ESCs would have detected if the connections where bad. I also just put my other motor in, havent ran it yet, I will later.

  19. #19
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    77 is for anodized alum cans. If it is at 95, then temps will read cooler than they actually are. If E is less than 77, temps will read higher than actually are.
    ------
    hmmm, I've never seen it spelled that way.

  20. #20
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    Guess I should have read the intruction on the temp gun! lol
    But I changed it and it only shows +.4 difference on the motor at room temp. So its not a big difference.

    Im charging my batts right now to see how my old 5700 motor runs. It was usually only 130 degrees in my Pede with the aluminum trany geared 15/86.
    Im going to run in 15/90 in my Rustler.
    Last edited by chopndroptx; 05-07-2007 at 12:54 PM.

  21. #21
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    Ok well I just ran the old motor and it got to 190 at about half a pack of IB4200 7 cells.

    Im at lost.

    ESC was 150

    And connectors where at 130.

  22. #22
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    OK took it to the LHS and they didnt find anything binding as well. Rolls across their shop floor with no problem.
    He was at lost also, and every one he called(Castle and Traxxas).
    So now he wants me to bring it in, and let him go thru the trany to make sure I didnt miss something. And if he doesnt find anything, then Traxxas wants him to send the car to them.

    O great!

    I also took the entire system off my other Pede that doesnt overheat, and ran it, same problem. So it has to be the car. I hope I didnt ruin my other motor, it was up to 199 degrees when I stopped it. And of course temp guns are usually off a bit. Hopefully it was a little cooler than what it was showing.

  23. #23
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    That is really strange.
    I ran a 7-cell GP3300 pack today at 19/90 gearing with Dirt Hawgs and after the pack died my motor was at 155 degrees.
    The ambient temp was about 65-70 degrees.
    On the other hand, I did a 10 cell run during the peak heat of the day (about 75 degrees) at 21/90 and my motor was at 210 degrees at the end of the run.
    I blame the gearing for that, because I've done 10 cell runs with 19/90 gearing and the motor only got to about 180.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopndroptx
    Guess I should have read the intruction on the temp gun! lol
    But I changed it and it only shows +.4 difference on the motor at room temp. So its not a big difference....
    At room temperature that is correct, it is pretty close (I knew that and have posted that in another thread in the past). It is at the extreme temps that is starts diverging. That being said, it is on the order of 15-20 deg for about 20 difference in E. Main thing is not that this would indicate there was no problem, just to get better data if it wasn't set.
    ------
    hmmm, I've never seen it spelled that way.

  25. #25
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    What kind of speeds are you guys seein with the 5700s?

    I really want to know because I want fast speeds, but still long runtimes.
    Life is just a box of chocolates!

  26. #26
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    Cant have both!!!!!! The faster you go the lower your runtimes.

    The 4600kv is suppose to be best for runtimes, but you can add more cells to make it fly also. Or just wire 2 6 cells packs together.

  27. #27
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    Thanks for the info vashon10!!!

  28. #28
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    12cells is to heavy for anything other then speed runs.
    and the 4600 is ment to fly on a 4S lipo pack, BUT, the mamba doesn't work on more then 3S lipo
    Rustler X-L5, MM5700. 8000mAh 3Cells, Full FLM.

  29. #29
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    OK
    Well I took it to my LHS but he was busy, so I brought it home today and changed the trany housing and bearings. Still trying to overheat at half run!!!!!!!!!!!!!! With 15/90 gearing!!!!!!!!!!
    So thats new RPM carriers and bearings, diff, aluminum idler, spur, pinion, housing, bearings. Nothing is binding, I cleaned all the gears also, and put a little grease back on them.
    The only thing I havent changed is the top shaft and gear, but it looks/feels fine.
    I guess Im going to have to buy the aluminum trany and a heatsink to keep it cool.
    www.chop-n-drop.com

  30. #30
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    Your rustler is just a natural lemon... lol

    You can run the mamba max esc on 4s LiPo... just can't use the BEC.
    My maxx is wider then yours!
    emaxx|3 Rusty's

  31. #31
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    Thats what IM starting to think lancec2c30
    www.chop-n-drop.com

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopndroptx
    OK Im trying to do some research on what people are running in their Rustlers with a MM5700.

    1. What pinion and spur combo are you using?

    2. What temps are you running at the motor?

    3. What temps are you running at the ESC?

    4. Are you running a heatsink on the motor? If so which one?

    5. Do you have FLM's aluminum trany or stock trany?

    6. What batteries are you running(GP,IB,Lipo,ect...)? And how many cells?

    7. Are your motor wires soldered to the motor?

    8. What wheels and tires are you running?

    Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure some things out.

    Thanks!
    1. What pinion and spur combo are you using?
    For my first runs with a brand new MM5700Kv....14t pinion / 86t spur.

    2. What temps are you running at the motor?
    Approx. 150F (I'm wondering if it's slightly lower than my ESC because of Alum. tranny case)

    3. What temps are you running at the ESC?
    Approx. 165F

    4. Are you running a heatsink on the motor? If so which one?
    No...not yet.

    5. Do you have FLM's aluminum trany or stock trany?
    FLM's alum tranny case (had to "Dremel" it in though)

    6. What batteries are you running(GP,IB,Lipo,ect...)? And how many cells?
    Currently, two 6-cell IB4200 NiMH (total of 12 cells).

    7. Are your motor wires soldered to the motor?
    No.

    8. What wheels and tires are you running?
    Stock - ribbed in front / alias at the rears (going bald)

    Hope this helps.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iByMLKMhfIc

  33. #33
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    I'm using:

    1. 15t / 84t
    2. 160 degrees + or - 10 depending on what I'm doing
    3. 120 degrees
    4. yes, AE TC3 large one
    5. Stock with aluminum idler
    6. Powerizer 3300 8 cell NIMH or Racer's Edge 3000mah NIMH 6 cell
    7. Stock set-up
    8. stock wheels with stock tires in front and Proline Dirt Hawgs on the rear
    Nitro 4-Tec, T-Maxx 2.5, Elec. Stampede, Elec. Rus

  34. #34
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    LOL you found this old thread!!!! Funny, Im still having issues!
    My motor is running what everyone elses is now but it has to have a heatsink and fan to do so. O ya and the FLM trany.
    www.chop-n-drop.com

  35. #35
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    hey

    Just want everyone to know if they dont know already get the flm tranny well worth the money . I just installed it yesturday and my temps before the alum trans were around 180 with mm5700 15/90 gearing . After with the new tranny running 16/90 my temps after a 7 cell full battery were 120 get that one . So today Im going to experiment the only other pinion I have is a 23 tooth witch Im going to try and see this thing fly and continue to check temps . I will post back . And also this trans maked everything so smooth there is hardly no noise comming from the trans like it use too unbeleivable

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alum. REVO
    What kind of speeds are you guys seein with the 5700s?

    I really want to know because I want fast speeds, but still long runtimes.
    I get around 40 on 6 cells and bashing gearing, and I haven't checked the 12 cell speed but it is incredible. I bashed it a bit on 12 cells, too, it is too powerful to bash with--you're spinning out all the time even if you're being easy on the throttle.

    Run times are very good, 15-20 minutes on GP 3300s and other people are getting 30+ minutes even on NiMh.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopndroptx
    OK Im trying to do some research on what people are running in their Rustlers with a MM5700.

    1. What pinion and spur combo are you using?
    18/87
    2. What temps are you running at the motor?
    It was around 160F; I just temped it last night on a half charged pack at 180 though (maybe because lower overall voltage which means more current draw and thus more heat?)
    3. What temps are you running at the ESC?
    About 100-110 with a 5v fan; again, with the crap charged battery, it hit 150ish with NO fan.
    4. Are you running a heatsink on the motor? If so which one?
    Just a garbagey blue integy one; kinda helps, but not enough
    5. Do you have FLM's aluminum trany or stock trany?
    Stock tranny with aluminum idler, stock top gear, and RC-monster differential.
    6. What batteries are you running(GP,IB,Lipo,ect...)? And how many cells?
    IB4200WC side by side packs; not matched.
    7. Are your motor wires soldered to the motor?
    Still using the 4mm connectors from castle; not had a problem with those at all.
    8. What wheels and tires are you running?
    Proline Mashers and RPM Clawz.
    Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure some things out.

    Thanks!
    My answers are in italics. Figured I'd chime in, since now I'm also having problems. UGH! I'm now looking at getting something like a 540 8s to run for more torque and lower temperatures. I figure the 540 rotor should help because less current draw to create the same amount of torque. It's also a lower Kv motor. Hey, for 50 bucks, why not?
    Last edited by MiGGLES; 06-10-2007 at 03:28 PM.

  38. #38
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    1. 17/90
    2. 130
    3. 120
    4. Yes, RC-Monster S sized.
    5. FLM tranny
    6. IB4200, zapped, matched, 7 cell, deans
    7. Not yet.
    8. RPM Bully's with Dirt Hawgs
    Run it, break it, fix it, love it :]=~

  39. #39
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    I run 13/90 with masher 2ks. It was 90F+ yesterday and I ran through 12 tenergy 3500 7 cell packs back to back with about 5-10 minutes between packs. Motor was hot to the touch, ESC was warm, no thermals though. Truck is all aluminum including wheels, tranny & diff. The truck runs so much better and is so much more fun geared down. Sure my top speed is down a bit but I've been running off-road about 99% of the time lately so this set up is perfect.

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Does the FLM alum tranny drop in the XL-5 rustler?

    MM5700, w/ lipo's
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

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