Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 54
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    OK RC'ers and wanna bees. I have been hip deep preparing for the iHobby show but I could not resist getting out this sneak preview on a car I am building.

    What I have here is something rather new from Vantage Racing (http://www.vantageracing.com/site/). First these guys make radical 3D carbon fiber components for a wide verity of RC cars. Everything from tuned pipes (nitro) to fluff things like fuel tank protectors and what may be the sexiest chassis out. I really like these guys because they are doing carbon the way it should be done, 3D. Not flat plates that have been water knifed out. These are formed in a 2 part or greater pressure die molding process using prepreg carbon fiber that after the process is dipped to get the final rather clean finish.

    (Side - Bar here: Since working with carbon fiber and carbon ceramic is my real job I know this process very well. Even thought they will not reveal their process I am 90% certin what they are doing. Even though I love their process there are issues I will get into later in this post.)

    Well here is the project. Since I made the first brushless Jato around 2 years ago there have been many that have gone and built their own and I congratulate them. The brushless Jato was one of the most fun cars I have ever converted. But now I have had to raise the bar on all those out there. Here is the new brushless Jato. I am calling this new ride the Jato E3.6. I will see if anyone can figure out the meaning of the name.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0414.jpg

    Please forgive the tires and wheels. the new ones have not arrived as of yet.

    This project required a newer approach to the car then any other one I have done. This is because of the carbon chassis. One thing you dont want to do (trust me on this) is make new holes in carbon or mount anything that may damage the resin or fibers. Both of these will greatly compromise the integrity if the chassis.

    Here is how the chassis comes from Vantage Racing (http://www.vantageracing.com/site/). The package is nice and clean. It has a great presence even while just sitting in the package. The clear packaging is great to show off exactly what in in the package. It makes you want to buy it. The chassis comes with a small CNC machined aluminum part that mounts into the middle rear of the chassis. This is where you would mount the 3.3 Traxxas motor for you nitro guys. The fit and finish of the insert is simply of the best quality. Not a sharp edge anywhere. This is what you want with both carbon and aluminum.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0232.jpg

    There is a special made area for the insert to go into and the kit comes with the screws to mount the insert into the chassis. Just a drop of BLUE lock tight and mount this in the chassis. Now if you are doing what I did dont use the lock tight yet, you will be taking this on and off many times to get proper alignment of the rest of the stuff. But if you are going 'O'd-nitro then just move all your stuff across. I took all my parts and washed in 'Kaboom'(tm) and water to wash all the parts off of the donor used Jato I got for this project. Please wear gloves the stuff will dry out your hands.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0233.jpg

    Here is the good stuff: Since I have done several brushless Jatos doing the front modification for the servo and to remove things that will not be needed in the electric conversion is a no brainier here. I take away everything that is not needed to hold the servo in to place firmly. Since the donor Jato came completely stripped I have put in one of my favorite servos in, a Blue Bird BMS-610MG-HS with 132 in-oz of torque. This is a great servo that I use all over the place. Yes it is over kill for steering the Jato but I have around 10 of these in my hobby box and if you just set the end points up right there is no problem. To trim all the excess plastic off the mount plate I just use a small Dremel vertical band saw. It cuts clean and quickly. I am very careful to leave the factory antenna mount.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...servomount.jpg

    Now I have to get the rear end done. First I am going to use the motor for braking (not to mention I want to have reverse) so I have to modify the rear end. Inside the transmission of the Jato you will find a 2 speed transmission that is run with a centrifical clutch. Here we need to split the transmission and remove the secondary drive shaft. This shaft holds the first gear and second gear with the clutch. Since the electric motor has more torque and power than the nitro there is no need for first gear. Besides in my first E-Jato The transmission shifted in about 10 feet so it is truly useless. Also the brushless motor will turn at 60,000 rpm plus so speed is not a problem either.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0424.jpg

    To lock the clutch I like the pin method. However there are several other ways. You can score the inside of the plastic gear and run some sand paper on the facing clutch area and use some good 2 part epoxy and glue it or what ever. Just make sure that you do it good. In the following photos you will see the pin method I did. I first disassembled the clutch. This is done by driving out the pins that are in the clutch. You will get a set screw and a spring and a ball bearing and the clevit (this is the part that engages second gear).

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0426.jpg

    You must drill the holes for the pins at the point where the aluminum starts to taper. This is vary difficult to do unless you use a center punch to help guide the drill through the first little bit of the aluminum. The hole must be this far out because you need the pin to go through the thickest part of the plastic gear for strength. Drill the aluminum first. I use for pins wheel drive pins. These are hardened steel and will not sheer. In others I have used 2mm roll pins and these have proven to be good also. In either case you need to drill the hole just slightly smaller than the pin. You will have a little more grace with the roll pin. With the wheel drive pin you will have to be exact with a very straight and nice hole or it will not go in or it will be too loose. Once you drill the holes in the aluminum use it as a guide for the plastic gear. Do not drill all the way through. There is a high possibility that you will drill through part of the gear face and thus have to buy another gear. If you go into the plastic gear 3 to 4 mm this will work well. I use 2 pins at opposing sides and I recommend the same to you.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0427.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0429.jpg

    Once you get the drilling done you will have to press in the pins. Press them into the aluminum first alone. Get them fully seated and see how much is sticking through and check the holes in the plastic gear to make sure they are deep enough. Once this is done put the bearing back on and then press the aluminum and the gear together. I have a bench press for this that puts straight force in 2 surfaces that are perfectly flat to each other. If you do not have a press a bench vice with clean SMOOTH jaws will also work well for this. Now you have the drive gear done.

    Now you need to reassemble the shaft and put the transmission together. Dont for get to remove the first gear gear from the one way bearing. Put the bearing back on the shaft and reassemble. Now you have a single speed transmission that will also allow you to use the motor for braking. You will also have the option of reverse.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0432.jpg

    What are we going to do with the motor? Well as discussed previously we do not want to drill or chaff the carbon fiber. After looking at the chassis and the pile of parts for about 15 minutes I had the fix. I am going to use the factory nitro motor mount. The chassis is made for this to mount to, and it will raise the motor off the chassis and more align it to the center horizontal line of the spur gear.

    OK having built these before I know I have to remove the plastic housing around the slipper so I can get the motor close enough to the spur gear. I get the housing off and reassemble. Now I cut a piece of 2 mm aluminum sheet metal in to a 55mm x 60mm square. I mount the factory motor mount to the aluminum plate on the Vantage Racing chassis with the factory machine screws. I now trim the aluminum plate I made to fit cleanly. The motor mount I am using for this is a clamp style. It has not adjustment fore and aft. However this is not needed. Since I am using the factory motor mount the fore and aft movement will be done just as the factory set up, by loosening the screws in the bottom and sliding the entire assembly back and forth. The clamps are wider then the motor mount so the plate needed to be wider. It was here that i just started drilling and matching to get a perfect fit. As you can see the mount came out great (if I do say so my self).

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0419.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0418.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0416.jpg

    The motor I am using is a Kontronik Twist 37. It is a 3700 rpm/v motor. Very few people on the car side of this hobby have heard of Kontronik but let me assure you that they are one of the great ones. Plus it is just a great looking motor. Polished aluminum with machined cooling fins. This is where I decided that everything needed to go black except the factory motor mount and the motor. I finished trimming and cleaning then sent all the aluminum (including the Vantage Racing aluminum chassis part) out to get a coat of black satin with a light wrinkle finish.

    Now as you can see by the photos I decided to mount the Castle Creations Mamba Max esc in the rear battery tray. I did this because of wanting to keep the attention on the motor in the chassis. The esc would fit with out the cut out, barely the caps would hit fairly hard. But cut out needed to be made to allow the esc to cool. It would not run long sealed up in the box. I also used Velcro to hold it and this raised it up slightly so the heat sink just sticks out the hole. The Velcro also allows the esc to be removed to allow easy access to the programming port on the side of the Mamba Max.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0422.jpg

    The rest of the system consists of a Multiplex 4 ch receiver. The batteries are from the fine folks at MaxAmps.com. They are 3100 mah 7.4 and 11.1 packs. I went with these because I generally ran my other EJatos on a 2100 Thunder Power 2 or 3 cell lipo. The MaxAmps packs are the same size with 1000 more mah of capacity and a higher 'C' rating. These packs will run 20C all day. The Krontronik motor has a max current draw at 65 amps so this will run well. You can easily fit a standard size lipo car pack in here so you dont have to do what I have done. All machine screws are Traxxas screws for a Jato except for the 5 bolts on the motor clamp. Those are 4-40 stainless.

    This is the whole thing.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0471.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0478.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0479.jpg

    Note here how I routed the control wire for the ESC. It is very safe and secure with no chance of rubbing or pinching. You dont want to run this wire along with the power and motor wires because this can cause electrical interference, glitching.

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0474.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0473.jpg

    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/100_0476.jpg

    I do not like the look of the wheelie bar at all. I am looking for other designs. If I dont find one I like I will design my own. But I really like the rest of the car.

    I am now waiting for the ProLine Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body for the Jato to arrive so I can send it out for painting. I have found this guy in California that paints very sick bodies. I am also waiting for my battery retainers to get here. I also have new tires and wheels coming. So when all the parts arrive I will make some videos and put them up.

    One more time here is my parts list:
    1 Jato donor car. I got mine used and stripped for $40.
    2 Carbon fiber chassis from Vantage Racing. http://www.vantageracing.com
    3 Steering servo Blue Bird BMS-610MG-HS with 132 in-oz of torque. http://www.blue-bird-model.com/USA/index2.htm
    4 Krontronik Twist 37 motor. 3700 rpm/volt. http://www.kontronikusa.com/index.html (The German site is better but in German)
    5 Castle Creations Mamba Max esc. http://www.castlecreations.com/index.html
    6 Max Amps battery packs 3100 mah one 2 cell 7.4v and one 3 cell 11.1v. (There is plenty of room for a 4 cell if you want.) http://www.maxamps.com/
    7 3mm Schulze gold connectors on the motor and Deans on the battery.
    8 Multiplex 4ch Pico receiver. http://www.multiplexusa.com/product_fs.htm
    9 Velcro battery straps are made for me by Bay Area Gear Repair here in Florida. They make and repair firemen clothing.
    10 Motor mount made and designed by me.



    Right now I can tell you that this truck is very light. My first Jato was around a pound lighter then a factory Jato and this one is lighter yet. I need to get a new scale but this is going to be close to a RTR T4.



    I welcome any and all questions. My direct email is Meismanm@hotmail.com. I will reply as fast as I can. But I am building many cars for the iHobby show and am very busy. So If it takes a few days please forgive me.

    Edited for image size. Please keep all images at or below 640 x 480 pixels. -cooleo
    Last edited by cooleocool; 02-03-2008 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Merge
    Michael

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    I want to thank all those companies that have worked with me over the years to build the best nitro conversions I can. Castle Creations and Max Amps have been the best. Krontronik, what can I say? The looks and the performance that others kill for, you guys deliver it. Multiplex for giving me a goofy looking (picture a phaser from the original Star Trek) radio that stomps all others.

    Now I have a new partner in Vantage Racing. I guess now I will have to build what I have had hundreds of requests for..... an E-Revo. Why you ask. Well Vantage Racing makes a carbon Revo chassis.
    Michael

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    225
    You are goin to be at iHobby?
    I'll SEE YOU THERE, lookin good

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    California in the YAY AREA!
    Posts
    4,343
    It looks good whell for a electric car, now all you need to do is hop up the parts that are in there. Why is every one makeing a e-jato now? What are the advantages of electric, nitro is excelent.
    No more money for rc trucks I got 1:1 truck

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by n3.3d_for_sp33d
    It looks good whell for a electric car, now all you need to do is hop up the parts that are in there. Why is every one makeing a e-jato now? What are the advantages of electric, nitro is excelent.

    Why, you ask. Well:
    1 it is quieter
    2 it is cleaner
    3 it is less finicky
    4 I dont have to tune it when a cloud goes over head
    5 it is faster
    6 it is less toxic
    7 it dose not smell in the house when I am working on it
    8 it is quicker
    9 it is easier to maintain
    10 it dose not use $25 a gallon fuel (I know that batteries are not cheap but you buy them once not every weekend)
    11 no need to worry about getting burned on hot exhaust or head
    12 it drives better.
    13 I can easily get 1 hour drive times
    14 it is what I do
    15 did I mention it is faster.

    I did the first Jato conversion (I do mean the first one) about 2 years ago. It was a vast improvement over the nitro. I had many people that love their Jato's drive mine and say nothing but how much better than the nitro it was. With one exception, they like the sound of the nitro engine. They said it handled better and was quicker. It took the jumps better and was was more adjustable because of the lighter weight and using any one of 25 pinion gears to get the right ratio for the track.

    For me now the question is 'why nitro?'. I have been in this sport for over 25 years. I have had everything almost at one point or another. I spent my time with nitro and except for the exhaust sound now it holds nothing for me. But the high power electrics have a completely different sound. It is mechanical not exhaust. You also may not have seen it, but many places are cracking down on nitro. There are many places in Europe where you cant run them any more because of the noise and pollution. This has also reared its head in California also. It is going to continue across the nation because of panty waisted numb skulls that feel they know what is best for the people. I truely believe that high powered brushless electric and lithium batteries are going to be the saving grace of this sport in the very near future.

    I hope this explaines the ins and outs of why.

    On the parts upgrade I wanted to keep this one close to stock so people see the clean lines and notice that this is bone stock. I will upgrade to the RPM bumper after the iHobby show. There will also be upgrades to the shocks and couple of other things as I see fit. The beauty of this set up is it is better than most modded Jatos using the stock parts.
    Last edited by RURC; 09-21-2007 at 07:09 AM.
    Michael

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by walkonwater
    You are goin to be at iHobby?
    I'll SEE YOU THERE, lookin good

    I will be there with several large scale brushless cars. everything from a HPI E-BAJA to a FG Hummer. I will also have my 100+ mph Schumacher 1/8 scale on-road and 1/5 Laudenbacher. The smallest car I am bringing there will be 1/8 scale. This Jato will be at the Vantage Racing booth most likely.
    Michael

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Mesquite, TX
    Posts
    1,706
    very very cool truck. you do great work!
    9R

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    California in the YAY AREA!
    Posts
    4,343
    Quote Originally Posted by RURC

    4 I dont have to tune it when a cloud goes over head
    5 it is faster
    7 it dose not smell in the house when I am working on it
    8 it is quicker
    10 it dose not use $25 a gallon fuel (I know that batteries are not cheap but you buy them once not every weekend)
    15 did I mention it is faster.
    1 or your 4: Onece my nitro cars are tuned all I do is little turns if it needs it.
    2 or your 5: shure
    3 or your 7: come on nitro doesn't smell bad I love the smell, you just need to get use to it
    4. or your 8: Shure i really don't believe that all you need to do is gear it right
    5 or your 10: Ok I am speeking for me but I go through a gallon every other month or every month, batterys loose there running time after awhile
    6 or your 10: Yea, you did and I say "shure"

    imo and for other people too
    No more money for rc trucks I got 1:1 truck

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Western WA
    Posts
    342
    Holy smokes! That's a slick Jato, but does E3.6 mean electric, version 3.6? Also, I might suggest using the aluminum steering assembly, for some weight in the front, it might help with all the torque of that motor, but that is the best EJato I've sen, no offense to others, but LOOK AT IT!

    Here is a wheelie bar that would look good, I've heard good things about it.

    But n3.3d4sp33d, I have to tell you, all the r/c speed records are held by electrics, and lithium batterys don't lose their running time as soon as you might think, I'd go through an engine or two before he needs another Li-po, but I do agree, the jato is WAY faster than many electrics out there, and that's good enough for me, also, I too enjoy the nitro experience, and am sorry if I offended you.
    Last edited by Mark_s; 09-21-2007 at 05:56 PM.
    Jato 3.3-Drilled Res & Light porting

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by n3.3d_for_sp33d
    1 or your 4: Onece my nitro cars are tuned all I do is little turns if it needs it.
    2 or your 5: shure
    3 or your 7: come on nitro doesn't smell bad I love the smell, you just need to get use to it
    4. or your 8: Shure i really don't believe that all you need to do is gear it right
    5 or your 10: Ok I am speeking for me but I go through a gallon every other month or every month, batterys loose there running time after awhile
    6 or your 10: Yea, you did and I say "shure"

    imo and for other people too
    On the speed I AM sure. I have no doubts on it.

    On tuning what you say is exactly what i am talking about. If you have a change of temperature or humidity you need to re-tune. I dont. I get the same performance from almost freezing to 105 degrees.

    On quickness. I assure you that my electric motors rev quicker than the nitro motors. Also this motor is over 1.5 hp and on a car that weighs a lot less. Just do the math.

    On the fuel you need to run more. When I ran nitro I would go through at least a gallon in a weekend.

    Finally I say again I am sure. Very sure.

    I am glad you are looking at it.
    Michael

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    In a box on Hwy 64.2 - Bashin' With Mike, Pat & Brad. hey i didnt start this.
    Posts
    7,488
    you seen the only sighting so far of a jato vxl? i got her together. runs pretty good so far. jus tneed ot get her out and really see what she can do.
    ADDICTED TO THE TWILIGHT SAGA

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,078
    man, that has to be the best looking ejato i have seen thus far!
    nice job man!
    tell us how she runs..
    what batteries r they?
    Learn by doing

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    1,562
    RURC......why do you need a faster Jato? I think a stock 60+ MPH is good enough.

    I don't see a point to converting to electric. It's alot of work and alot of money for no reason.

    Also, why don't you just get a Rustler VXL instead?
    Race Revo, Street Jato

  14. #14
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Clovis Ca
    Posts
    151
    love your jato. i have a vxl rustler that does 75mph, a big block jato 83mph, and a host of many other conversions. im waiting for my rb mods 3.3 to come back. for me its the need for speed and to do something different.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    California in the YAY AREA!
    Posts
    4,343
    If you put a big block it will go 83?!?!
    No more money for rc trucks I got 1:1 truck

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    west palm beach
    Posts
    171
    just wanted to know about the motor mount,and how can i get one
    IT IS WHAT IT IS

  17. #17
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Clovis Ca
    Posts
    151
    im using new eras chassis, it comes complete with motor mount and screws. im running revo gears 20/38 and wasp .28. with the 3.3 and revo gears we radared it at 71. i just sent my 3.3 to rb mods, well see how fast it goes after 225 in mods. ill clean it up post some pics.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    North AL
    Posts
    365
    yeah about the motor mount. I was gonna do a piece of metal bolted on the stock position and then bolt a simple motor mount from OSE on their ! tell me how to do your setup (I've got a dremel). that esc location is awsome!! this is the best setup iv'e seen! traxxas has to be paying attention to how many people are doin this! They probrabaly got John Lampert working on a prototype!! we can only hope.
    _________________
    1 2 3 jato

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bethlehem PA
    Posts
    712
    what a beauty!!!!!
    2- 2.5Tmaxx Jato2.5R Vintage: Bullet, Hawk, N-Hawk

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    166
    RURC,

    Is that the absolute fastest motor for your Jato? How fast do you think the Jato would go as your car sits? I am interested in doing such a mod later.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    pa
    Posts
    432
    im sold on that chassis so far how does it hold up for nitro drag racing with a 3.3?

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    pa
    Posts
    432
    actually nvm the price tag just ruiened it

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    5,087
    That looks awesome! I bet that thing screams with good gearing and that 3s. The problem with E-Jatos is there is so much blank space where all the nitro junk used to be, but it still looks great.

  24. #24
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Harford county, Maryland
    Posts
    210
    Quote Originally Posted by RURC
    Also this motor is over 1.5 hp and on a car that weighs a lot less. Just do the math.
    Id love to see eagle tree numbers, but Im gonna have to call into question the 1.5hp. 1100 watts on 3s means well over 100amps, which your little 3100s arent delivering. You could go alot faster with batteries more in line with the vehicle weight. Or if you're stuck on the 3100s, at least go to 4s and gear down to try to help with the amp load. The MM can easily handle it. Its a nice looking truck though, and definitely has a lot of potential. The extra weight is the only reason I built up my rustler instead of converting a jato, and that chassis probably gets rid of most of that problem.
    And to those still arguing that nitro is faster than electric, crawl out from under your rock and go look at the rcca worlds fastest rc car competitions.
    Last edited by arceeguy; 09-23-2007 at 06:46 PM.

  25. #25
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by Speed_race
    Id love to see eagle tree numbers, but Im gonna have to call into question the 1.5hp. 1100 watts on 3s means well over 100amps, which your little 3100s arent delivering. You could go alot faster with batteries more in line with the vehicle weight. Or if you're stuck on the 3100s, at least go to 4s and gear down to try to help with the amp load. The MM can easily handle it. Its a nice looking truck though, and definitely has a lot of potential. The extra weight is the only reason I built up my rustler instead of converting a jato, and that chassis probably gets rid of most of that problem.
    And to those still arguing that nitro is faster than electric, crawl out from under your rock and go look at the rcca worlds fastest rc car competitions.

    Someone always assumes I am referring to just what sits there. ... I am glad to see that you understand it enough to be able to do and understand the math. I can run this up to 6S lipo if I want to. Then if you to the math you will see almost 1500 watts at the motors ability not the esc. I run Mamba Maxes at 4 ,5 cell, often and 6s on occasion. But if I really want to get crazy I can run a 10 with one of my big MGM's or BK's. I have been playing with brushless longer than most of the car side of this industry has even heard of them. I have also been running lipo's for over 6 years.

    I prefer the Jato because it is a much better built vehicle then the Rustler. To me the Rustler is almost 'Toys R Us' quality, not quite but almost. Also since it is built for the added power of a nitro over a standard brushed car it is stronger and easier to balance over a hopped up brushed electric car.

    As far as the Eagle Tree numbers, they are not dead accurate. I like the laser timer I have built as a speed trap. Problem right now is that I crashed into the main pod at over 100 with one of my 1/8 scale high speed cars and almost obliterated it. I dont have the time to rebuild it now I am busy building several cars for the iHobby show. This Jato is one of the cars that will be going to iHobby. So until after the show it will not see any running except just to make sure it runs right. I dont want to crash it or scratch it.

    Right now I have it set up for good performance, not rocket chair blasts. On a 2 cell lipo it will be a little slower than a stock Jato but with 3 cell it will be faster. But in either trim it will handle better and will be quicker. If I really want to turn up the heat I will install a Hacker C40 or a Krontronik Twist 57, and then if I want to go ballistic I will put a Neu 11xx series motor in it.

    On the batteries I have been running my first and second generation EJatos with Thunder Power 2100's in 2 and 3 cell on mostly Hacker C40's. Much faster than the 2.5 Jato and equal with a 3.3. If I put 4 cell in there it kills the 3.3 but it is no longer fun to me. I like to be able to drive a car at speed not just go in a straight line. But I have never had issues with the batteries at all. But the Max Amps 5000 that you guys are getting to put with the VXL system will easily fit in the chassis. So then you can get more battery safety but also add some weight.

    Edited for language. -cooleo

    Quote Originally Posted by KyLeader7
    man, that has to be the best looking ejato i have seen thus far!
    nice job man!
    tell us how she runs..
    what batteries r they?
    Thank you. The batteries shown are Max Amps 3100 20C+ batteries. I have a 2 and 3 cell one. I may have them make me a 4 cell also.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jato25n33
    RURC......why do you need a faster Jato? I think a stock 60+ MPH is good enough.

    I don't see a point to converting to electric. It's alot of work and alot of money for no reason.

    Also, why don't you just get a Rustler VXL instead?
    It is not so much that it is faster, it is that it can easily be. And is easily maintained over a equal nitro version.

    I know you dont see the point but I like it. I built it for me not you. And it is not a lot of work. With the kit I am putting together you can do the mod in about 1.5 to 2 hours.

    I dont like the Rustler. It is weak and cant handle the power I an rn througha high power brushless. Which can simply be more than a nitro.

    Quote Originally Posted by mistakingmrking
    just wanted to know about the motor mount,and how can i get one

    After the iHobby show in October I will be going into production on the kit. It will include a cd with photos and instructions. The battery mount assembly that will be usable for standard sized lipo batteries and the smaller ones I like to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by JMAN3.3
    yeah about the motor mount. I was gonna do a piece of metal bolted on the stock position and then bolt a simple motor mount from OSE on their ! tell me how to do your setup (I've got a dremel). that esc location is awsome!! this is the best setup iv'e seen! traxxas has to be paying attention to how many people are doin this! They probrabaly got John Lampert working on a prototype!! we can only hope.
    _________________
    1 2 3 jato
    It is a simple kit. This will be one of the cheapest conversions out. It will be less than $100 for the kit. No electronics, but the motor mount and the battery mount and a cd with instructions. I doubt Traxxas is working on this. The first one I did I almost could not get put up on this forum. They kept killing it.

    Quote Originally Posted by TRX-Traxxas-Man
    what a beauty!!!!!

    Thank you. It is great to hear this. I tried to keep this very simple and clean.

    Quote Originally Posted by B Davis
    RURC,

    Is that the absolute fastest motor for your Jato? How fast do you think the Jato would go as your car sits? I am interested in doing such a mod later.

    No way. It is just a very top line motor that I knew would look and perform great with the carbon chassis. If you look basically it is the only thing that is not black or carbon. Like I have posted I will be doing a kit on this.

    Quote Originally Posted by nitro freek
    im sold on that chassis so far how does it hold up for nitro drag racing with a 3.3?

    I have not ran it much. I have to keep this pristine for the iHobby show. So there will be no real running till after the iHobby show in October. But I can tell you that there is plenty of carbon to make this a very strong chassis. It is superior to the stock chassis and it is lighter.

    Quote Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy
    That looks awesome! I bet that thing screams with good gearing and that 3s. The problem with E-Jatos is there is so much blank space where all the nitro junk used to be, but it still looks great.
    I like the emptiness of the chassis. It really shows how much less thee is required when working with electric over nitro. There is lots of space to add whatever you want to balance the chassis.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-23-2007 at 07:35 PM.
    Michael

  26. #26
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Harford county, Maryland
    Posts
    210
    Quote Originally Posted by RURC
    Someone always assumes I am referring to just what sits there. ... I am glad to see that you understand it enough to be able to do and understand the math. I can run this up to 6S lipo if I want to. Then if you to the math you will see almost 1500 watts at the motors ability not the esc. I run Mamba Maxes at 4 ,5 cell, often and 6s on occasion. But if I really want to get crazy I can run a 10 with one of my big MGM's or BK's. I have been playing with brushless longer than most of the car side of this industry has even heard of them. I have also been running lipo's for over 6 years.

    I prefer the Jato because it is a much better built vehicle then the Rustler. To me the Rustler is almost 'Toys R Us' quality, not quite but almost. Also since it is built for the added power of a nitro over a standard brushed car it is stronger and easier to balance over a hopped up brushed electric car.

    As far as the Eagle Tree numbers, they are not dead accurate. I like the laser timer I have built as a speed trap. Problem right now is that I crashed into the main pod at over 100 with one of my 1/8 scale high speed cars and almost obliterated it. I dont have the time to rebuild it now I am busy building several cars for the iHobby show. This Jato is one of the cars that will be going to iHobby. So until after the show it will not see any running except just to make sure it runs right. I dont want to crash it or scratch it.

    Right now I have it set up for good performance, not rocket chair blasts. On a 2 cell lipo it will be a little slower than a stock Jato but with 3 cell it will be faster. But in either trim it will handle better and will be quicker. If I really want to turn up the heat I will install a Hacker C40 or a Krontronik Twist 57, and then if I want to go ballistic I will put a Neu 11xx series motor in it.

    On the batteries I have been running my first and second generation EJatos with Thunder Power 2100's in 2 and 3 cell on mostly Hacker C40's. Much faster than the 2.5 Jato and equal with a 3.3. If I put 4 cell in there it kills the 3.3 but it is no longer fun to me. I like to be able to drive a car at speed not just go in a straight line. But I have never had issues with the batteries at all. But the Max Amps 5000 that you guys are getting to put with the VXL system will easily fit in the chassis. So then you can get more battery safety but also add some weight.

    Edited for language. -cooleo
    So by your logic, my rustler has 2.6hp. Calculating the power rating of a motor by itself seems pretty meaningless to me, but I see what you were saying.
    You said you can run it on 6s, and thats almost 80k max rpm. Can Kontronik motors be reliable at those speeds? Ive never heard of a motor that would be, but I dont have any experience with Kontroniks line.
    By eagle tree numbers, I meant volt/ amp/ watt numbers to verify your 1100 watt output. I understand vehicle speed/rpm numbers wouldnt be worth too much.
    I wont disagree with you on the build quality of the rustler vs the jato, but I do think it might have something to do with the rustler design being 10+ years older than the jato. I also wouldnt say the rustler isnt capable of handling your brushless power. Most of the traxxas parts left on my rustler are from a jato, so mine is a bad example of this, but look at a stock VXL, those can make more power than the jato 3.3 ever will, and they handle it fine. My rustler transmission made of aftermarket steel/ aluminum is handling 4s lipo on an 8L perfectly reliably. This is with maxx size slicks on the back, an extended wheelbase, and a long, low-mounted wheely bar. Its built for what you call "rocket chair blasts", and not much else. I have other more reasonably set up vehicles for just driving around.

  27. #27
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by Speed_race
    So by your logic, my rustler has 2.6hp. Calculating the power rating of a motor by itself seems pretty meaningless to me, but I see what you were saying.
    .
    OOHHHK. I am not fully following you fully on this. You are telling me that you have a motor in you Rustler that can do 2000 watts output? Unless you are running a 15 series Neu motor (or bigger) or a 22 series Lehiner (or bigger)that is not happining, period. And neither of those motors will work in that car without very serious modification. Look I build about 20 1/8 scale, and bigger (up to 1/4 scale) brushless cars a year I know this very well. You say that calculating to the motor is useless is wrong. If you only figure to the esc then you will over run the motor. Here is the math a Mamba Max with 14.4 (4 cell) lipo figured at the max continous current draw of 100 amps comes to 1440 watts(almost 2.1 hp). The motor, in this case a Kontronik will peak at 70 amps of current. So you need to do the math TO THE MOTOR. The 70 amps with the 14.4 volts comes to 1008 watts power output with the motor. Now at 700 watts per hp that figures to 1.44 hp, ruffly 1.5 hp.
    Quote Originally Posted by Speed_race
    You said you can run it on 6s, and thats almost 80k max rpm. Can Kontronik motors be reliable at those speeds? Ive never heard of a motor that would be, but I dont have any experience with Kontroniks line.
    To be fully up front on this I have to say I have not tried to run a Kontronik at that rpm. But, you will not ever see that rpm with the motor in a car because of the drag. The motor specs are given at no load. That menas free wheeling in the air hooked to nothing. But I have many motors that will run 100k rpm and more. It is not a real problem to do this it just cost a lot of money. These motors run ceramic bearings and precision balances rotors.
    Quote Originally Posted by Speed_race
    By eagle tree numbers, I meant volt/ amp/ watt numbers to verify your 1100 watt output. I understand vehicle speed/rpm numbers wouldnt be worth too much.
    .
    Also on the Eagle Tree systems stuff it is great for general readings. But if you want to get real precise measurements it dose not sample fast enough. With the original Castle Creations Mamba 25 esc for 1/18 scale we tested it with Eagle Tree and we would see peaks in the 70 amp area under brakeing (which is where you see the greatest current draws). Now when we would run the car in on the dyno and use a Tektronics DSO we would see draws upwards to 125 amps. Same car same system just useing a unit with a 20,000 sampeling per second vs one that did it 20 times per second at best. Dont get me wrong I like Eagle Tree and I use them (mostley because I cant afford the DSO) but they are only good for general use. Now all this being said you must realize that this is potential. If it is not needed it will not be used. This is a key diference between nitro and electric. With electric you will not use the current if the motor dose not need it. Not that the system is that smart it is just the way it works. To increase current you need to have the demand from the motor.

    Quote Originally Posted by Speed_race
    I wont disagree with you on the build quality of the rustler vs the jato, but I do think it might have something to do with the rustler design being 10+ years older than the jato. I also wouldnt say the rustler isnt capable of handling your brushless power. Most of the traxxas parts left on my rustler are from a jato, so mine is a bad example of this, but look at a stock VXL, those can make more power than the jato 3.3 ever will, and they handle it fine. My rustler transmission made of aftermarket steel/ aluminum is handling 4s lipo on an 8L perfectly reliably. This is with maxx size slicks on the back, an extended wheelbase, and a long, low-mounted wheely bar. Its built for what you call "rocket chair blasts", and not much else. I have other more reasonably set up vehicles for just driving around.
    I wont go into the VXL on Traxxis' forum. I will say only that it is a good low power system. Just like the Novak systems. Also if the Rustler is that old they should update it. No wonder I dont see them at the track.
    Michael

  28. #28
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Erie Pennsylvania
    Posts
    237
    All this talk of watts and amps makes me wanna go wire a car stereo! lol that aside, nice lookin truck
    Silly fast Jato 3.3

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    California in the YAY AREA!
    Posts
    4,343
    lol you can come over here and hook my dad's camerro or the corvette up, but I have to ask him. lol jk I know he would say no.
    No more money for rc trucks I got 1:1 truck

  30. #30
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Watts and amps and also volts. If you understand these and their relation to each other and their effect you can figure out anything electrical. Now car stereo is where I really started to learn about electronics in depth.
    Michael

  31. #31
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    okc
    Posts
    164
    that is one of the cleanest conversions i have ever seen !

    will that motor mount set up work in the stock chassis ? and will you be willing to make one for sale? i have never seen a motor mount like that! thanks arick

  32. #32
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    33
    RURC,

    I just wanted to say I am blown away by your ideas and this conversion...

    And for those people that say "why not just get a stock 60mph jato, its nitro", it also kills our already suffering enviroment, makes some of our neighbors ears bleed, not to mention more tuning and dialing in...

    This not only applies to just rc's, but also the REAL WORLD,, just if we could have somebody like RURC in full scale cars we'd be set for generations to come...

    Anyways, best of luck to your conversions, and keep doing what your doing!!!

  33. #33
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    2,273
    Quote Originally Posted by RURC
    http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r135/RURC/Carbon%20Jato/100_0418.jpg

    Edited for image size. Please keep all images at or below 640 x 480 pixels. -cooleo
    i would get some bolts on the screws so they dont wiggle out, also put on lock tite on them.

    or make it so the screws go down instead of up, and still pu tthe bolts on them.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 02-03-2008 at 10:26 AM.
    Spur gear stripping king..... :D

  34. #34
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    53
    i skipped reading most of this post, but i was wondering if there is a video of this car in action....

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    443
    wow Jato lookd good, good luck at the show.. someone has a awsome job. wish that i could just do RC Cars that would be great.
    Speed is the only way to go.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Broomfield,Colorado
    Posts
    3,367
    incredible jato! you could have bought single speed and geared up
    I memorized pi to 200 digits!

  37. #37
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by navyeoseabee
    that is one of the cleanest conversions i have ever seen !

    will that motor mount set up work in the stock chassis ? and will you be willing to make one for sale? i have never seen a motor mount like that! thanks arick
    Yes it will. The only diference between the carbon chassis and the stock one is the shape of the bottom of the battery tray. If you note you will see that this is mounted to the factory nitro motor mount. so as long as the factory motor mount will mount this will fit. I have been insanely busy since the iHobby show. I have moved into a new facility and have been setting up all my cnc machines. Yes there is a kit available. Right now I am out of stock. I did an initial run of 40 units and they went before we started our move. I will have more available soon. When you adjust the gear mesh you move ir fore and aft with the same bolts you use for the nitro motor. It is that simple.


    Quote Originally Posted by Steve-O
    RURC,

    I just wanted to say I am blown away by your ideas and this conversion...

    And for those people that say "why not just get a stock 60mph jato, its nitro", it also kills our already suffering enviroment, makes some of our neighbors ears bleed, not to mention more tuning and dialing in...

    This not only applies to just rc's, but also the REAL WORLD,, just if we could have somebody like RURC in full scale cars we'd be set for generations to come...

    Anyways, best of luck to your conversions, and keep doing what your doing!!!
    Thank you for the kind words. I am not so much doing this for the "environment" ( I have my questions about that whole thing) but the bothering neighbors is true. I see people blindly following the "environmental" side of this and passing laws limiting nitro and gas rc, and I see this as not only a viable alternative but a improvement. In the real world when they build a alternate mode of transportation that is not based on fossel fules and it is truely better, not just a knee jerk reaction (ethanol being a farce) I will buy it. But I will not take a step backwards. I am building my son a go kart that is electric. In our eairly tests it will easily exceed 120 mph with 0 to 60 times in 2.2 seconds. This betters almost all karts out this side of F1 karts and is equal to those. Again I really do thank you for your kind words and you keep up your work also.

    Quote Originally Posted by falkon
    i would get some bolts on the screws so they dont wiggle out, also put on lock tite on them.

    or make it so the screws go down instead of up, and still pu tthe bolts on them.
    OK. But here we dont have the same vibrations that you have in nitro cars. So the vibrations do not have the same effect you see. I have not had any problem with bolts coming out. But thanks for the ideas.

    Quote Originally Posted by ToddEDM
    i skipped reading most of this post, but i was wondering if there is a video of this car in action....
    Working on it ASAP.

    Quote Originally Posted by JatoedCooger
    wow Jato lookd good, good luck at the show.. someone has a awsome job. wish that i could just do RC Cars that would be great.
    Thanks. This is not my only job, but soon it will. I work in aerospace / avation in my normal job.

    Quote Originally Posted by I know pi!
    incredible jato! you could have bought single speed and geared up
    The mod I do is for strength and to get rid of the servo brake by locking the centrifical clutch. I can change any gearing I want to .
    Michael

  38. #38
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    st. helens, Or
    Posts
    1,373
    never did get a vid up huh?
    @ 80% for years?

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    potter county, pennsylvania
    Posts
    551
    I am a nitro guy through and through.....but there is one thing that you can't deny is that you have done some really awesome work and put a lot of effort into it and on that i say kudos......would love to see a video of that think making some high speed runs.
    you can't out run the General Lee!!!!

  40. #40
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    st. helens, Or
    Posts
    1,373
    electrics are toooo easy...the only work he really had to do is lock it in 2nd and make a mount
    @ 80% for years?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •