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  1. #1
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    RazorRC race rustler build

    Spent a few hours messing around converting my race Slash into a Rustler. Just need some wheels and I should be good to go!



    Threw on an old 22T 3.0 body on there for now.



    Looking forward to getting this out on the track, hopefully this week!
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  2. #2
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    RazorRC race rustler build

    I'm guessing that the f/r suspension and electronics are from the Slash? Other than the chassis, what parts are needed for the Rustler?
    Are the castor blocks different to fit the 2.2 wheels?

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    Last edited by MaXDee; 10-22-2017 at 11:53 PM.

  3. #3
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Haha, the whole truck is from the Slash except for the chassis. I think T5M wheels should fit with no problems, we'll see.
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    Marked for interest.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Haha, the whole truck is from the Slash except for the chassis. I think T5M wheels should fit with no problems, we'll see.
    What I find amazing is with just a chassis change, you have a completely different truck, but everything else is the same.

    How long did it take you to convert it from the Slash to the Rustler?

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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Rustler side of the forum. The truck looks great - I like the look of the 22T 3.0 body. I'll be very interested to hear how it does on the track.

    With the T5M wheels & the ProTrac suspension, you will need to do a little dremel work on the rear hubs & the front arms for clearance. If you don't want to do that & don't care about width, the rear Traxxas Lite wheels (part# 1972) all around will work with no modifications required.
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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Funny you should mention castor blocks. The Rusty, Sla2h, and P2de all use the same stuff. The chassis, body mounts, and a-arms are the main differences.

    That said, the number one, immediate, absolutely mandatory upgrade for a Traxxas 2wd vehicle is aluminum castor blocks. The plastic castor blocks are the weakest part of the vehicle. The stock plastic castor blocks flex causing the kingpin to bend, subsequently ruining the steering.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...ra3632x/p25817

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...st3632r/p29552

    You may need new kingpins too since they may already be bent.

    For racing, you seem to already have the suspension dial-in, but 90%+ of truck setup is tire choice. As you probably already know, use whatever tires the fast guys are using. Lastly, lighten the chassis with some lovely Dremel cutwork and put the ESC and receiver in the center of the chassis. Also, Velcro battery stapping lowers the weight and center of gravity.
    Last edited by jvogel; 10-23-2017 at 11:23 AM.
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  8. #8
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Welcome to the Rustler side of the forum. The truck looks great - I like the look of the 22T 3.0 body. I'll be very interested to hear how it does on the track.

    With the T5M wheels & the ProTrac suspension, you will need to do a little dremel work on the rear hubs & the front arms for clearance. If you don't want to do that & don't care about width, the rear Traxxas Lite wheels (part# 1972) all around will work with no modifications required.
    Thanks for the tip. I definitely want to keep it under 13” wide, so I’ll try the T5M wheels. The rear hubs looked problematic doing some test figment with other wheels, I don’t mind doing a little dremeling.
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  9. #9
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    Razor, I'm anxious to see how this rustler drives compared to a tlr 22T 3.0

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    Last edited by MaXDee; 10-23-2017 at 12:20 PM.

  10. #10
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Razor, I'm anxious to see how this rustler drives compared to a tlr 22T 3.0

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    We'll see. So far the Rustler looks like it weighs about 1920g RTR, whereas my lightened 22T 3.0 is at 1788g.
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  11. #11
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    What I find amazing is with just a chassis change, you have a completely different truck, but everything else is the same.

    How long did it take you to convert it from the Slash to the Rustler?

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    Itís pretty cool how the platform is interchangeable. Only takes an hour or two to move stuff over, but I spent a lot of time trying to figure out the shorty battery brace, body mounting, cleaning up stickers off the chassis, etc. Thatís a 22 3.0 carbon battery strap holding it in.
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  12. #12
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    What have you done to the shock towers? It looks like you have factory plastic towers backed by a rigid material?

  13. #13
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmauld View Post
    What have you done to the shock towers? It looks like you have factory plastic towers backed by a rigid material?
    Theyíre Protrac towers backed with the Proline carbon fiber shock braces.

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  14. #14
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    This is great! I might be doing this as well! Just to change it up. Might do a lifted rustler though. Want it to be wider compared to the slash to help offset the height. Thanks for the inspiring ideas!


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  15. #15
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Tires mounted, arms dremeled! Body is kind of a hackjob, but it's ready to hit the track (tomorrow).



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  16. #16
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    NICE! It's a sleeper Rustler.

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  17. #17
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    Do you have pics of where you dremeled, and how wide is the truck

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  18. #18
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvogel View Post
    For racing, you seem to already have the suspension dial-in, but 90%+ of truck setup is tire choice. As you probably already know, use whatever tires the fast guys are using. Lastly, lighten the chassis with some lovely Dremel cutwork and put the ESC and receiver in the center of the chassis. Also, Velcro battery stapping lowers the weight and center of gravity.
    I've been racing my Slash a bit in the 2WD SC Mod class, so I feel pretty comfortable with tires and setup. I just need to find a decent rear divider for the shorty battery, and this thing should be pretty good. A 3D printed part would probably be best to slot into the checkerboard on the bottom of the battery tray.
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  19. #19
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Do you have pics of where you dremeled, and how wide is the truck

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    I'll shoot a video when I'm done with the setup of the truck showing what I did to convert it, don't have pics right now. Truck is 12 7/8" in width with Pro-line Electrons.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I'll shoot a video when I'm done with the setup of the truck showing what I did to convert it, don't have pics right now. Truck is 12 7/8" in width with Pro-line Electrons.
    DAAAANG! You just made the width. Good job

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  21. #21
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    DAAAANG! You just made the width. Good job

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    Yeah, thanks to FlyingTigerDad for doing the legwork in finding wheels that fit. Hyper 10TT wheels fit without dremeling, but are way too wide.
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  22. #22
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    TEAMWORK!!!

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  23. #23
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Looks really good... Finding an alternate body that fits well is a bit of a challenge. I really like the 22T 3.0 body & some of the Jconcepts body's for the 22T & T5M trucks - just no real way to make them fit nice without kinda carving them up. The only real "race truck" body that was ever out there for the Rustler was ProLine's Bulldog that has been discontinued for some time. I was lucky enough to get one more awhile ago, that now is getting something special done to it.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 10-23-2017 at 06:16 PM.
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  24. #24
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Looks really good... Finding an alternate body that fits well is a bit of a challenge. I really like the 22T 3.0 body & some of the Jconcepts body's for the 22T & T5M trucks - just no real way to make them fit nice without kinda carving them up. The only real "race truck" body that was ever out there for the Rustler was ProLine's Bulldog that has been discontinued for some time. I was lucky enough to get one more awhile ago, that now is getting something special done to it.
    Nice, that's a good looking body. I'm looking forward to seeing the new paint scheme!

    If I don't hate my truck, I'll probably pick up the Jconcepts SVT Ford Raptor body. It's not totally ugly.
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  25. #25
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Nice, that's a good looking body. I'm looking forward to seeing the new paint scheme!

    If I don't hate my truck, I'll probably pick up the Jconcepts SVT Ford Raptor body. It's not totally ugly.
    I gotta admit, the first few laps, I hated this truck. Evil Slash setup does not work at all, requires a lot of changes, Iíll have to figure it out, because itís not even close. Lots of work to do.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I gotta admit, the first few laps, I hated this truck. Evil Slash setup does not work at all, requires a lot of changes, Iíll have to figure it out, because itís not even close. Lots of work to do.
    Uh oh. Are you going to give the rustler a valiant effort or put Evil slash back together? Or is Evil slash now-defunct

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  27. #27
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Got the rustler working halfway decent. Weird thing is this truck needs a lot of roll in the setup, the Slash I was always fighting roll and trying to make it as stiff as possible.
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  28. #28
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    Why would u want a rustler instead of a slash

  29. #29
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MySlashROCKS View Post
    Why would u want a rustler instead of a slash
    Rustler should be more nimble and faster on the track. We'll see if I can get it there.
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  30. #30
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    First drive thoughts (as compared to the Slash):

    - Truck needs softer springs front and rear. I'm running Associated truck green in the rear (2 steps down from gray), and TLR blue truck front. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better.
    - Shock oil seems pretty close with what I had on the slash. 37.5 AE front, 35 AE rear. Maybe could go down with a slightly lighter fluid.
    - Roll centers are drastically different. On the Slash I ran all roll centers as high as possible (lowest hole on shock tower, highest on the rear hubs). With the Rustler I went up one hole on the front tower, and up two holes on the rear tower. Also needed to lengthen the rear camber link to the outside hole on the hub for some reason.
    - Rear shocks are probably too long, I'm going to try shorter shocks and run them more upright.

    My Rustler was pushing on corner entry, and then snap-oversteering on mid-corner to exit when applying the throttle. Part of it was due to new tires that were not broken in yet, but a lot of it was the car. Lowering the roll center front and rear helped this a lot. I think it's because the Slash is much bigger and heavier and has a lot of weight up high, so it naturally rolls a lot and my Slash setup was designed to combat that.

    On the Rustler, it has a much lighter and lower body, so it doesn't roll as much. The short wheelbase makes it very aggressive in changing directions though. Definitely more nimble, but more nervous and harder to drive. Evil Rustler is an apt name for now...
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  31. #31
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    It's interesting to hear your findings on this racing rustler. I am now wanting to convert mine as well, sorry for copying you but it is a great idea since they share a lot of parts. I already have a 4wd slash, an emaxx and might as well change it up completely different chassis build.
    Thanks for the continuing ideas razor!


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  32. #32
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    More thoughts:

    While I thought the stock Ultrashocks were too short for the Slash, I think they're probably a really good size for the Bandit and Rustler. My theory is that the TLR 22SCT 2.0 shocks are too long for the Rustler, I've now moved to 22-4 rear shocks (they're inbetween buggy and truck shocks) and mounted them more vertically. I think the long shocks were allowing the inside wheel to lift too much in the middle of the corner.

    That's my guess anyway, we'll find out more later this week. I also bought an SVT Raptor body, but the Protrac rear shock tower is too wide for it, so I have to mount it up about an extra 3/8" up higher in the air. Hopefully it doesn't look too stupid.

    Stay tuned...
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I gotta admit, the first few laps, I hated this truck. Evil Slash setup does not work at all, requires a lot of changes, Iíll have to figure it out, because itís not even close. Lots of work to do.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    First drive thoughts (as compared to the Slash):

    - Truck needs softer springs front and rear. I'm running Associated truck green in the rear (2 steps down from gray), and TLR blue truck front. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better.
    - Shock oil seems pretty close with what I had on the slash. 37.5 AE front, 35 AE rear. Maybe could go down with a slightly lighter fluid.
    - Roll centers are drastically different. On the Slash I ran all roll centers as high as possible (lowest hole on shock tower, highest on the rear hubs). With the Rustler I went up one hole on the front tower, and up two holes on the rear tower. Also needed to lengthen the rear camber link to the outside hole on the hub for some reason.
    - Rear shocks are probably too long, I'm going to try shorter shocks and run them more upright.

    My Rustler was pushing on corner entry, and then snap-oversteering on mid-corner to exit when applying the throttle. Part of it was due to new tires that were not broken in yet, but a lot of it was the car. Lowering the roll center front and rear helped this a lot. I think it's because the Slash is much bigger and heavier and has a lot of weight up high, so it naturally rolls a lot and my Slash setup was designed to combat that.

    On the Rustler, it has a much lighter and lower body, so it doesn't roll as much. The short wheelbase makes it very aggressive in changing directions though. Definitely more nimble, but more nervous and harder to drive. Evil Rustler is an apt name for now...
    You're on the exact right train of thought for the Rustlers setup. Despite the fact that the Slash & Rustler share the same suspension components, they react quite differently to setup. Having setup both my truck and my son's 2WD Slash, I've already been through the whole experience myself. The 2 inches longer wheelbase & 2 inches narrower width of the Slash make a huge difference in the direction you wind up going regarding track setup.

    The Rustler is much more sensitive to adjustment variances and does require a much lower roll center, among other things. If I may, I'd like to offer some suggestions on setup that may help save you some time & frustration. The corner entry push, then snap oversteer at mid corner can be solved with longer/lower camber link location. Since we are running many of the same components, some of the following suggestions should work out quite well for you. In the rear, use the outer, lower camber link hole on the hub, and whatever hole on the inner side that keeps the link level or to just barely lower on the inside. For the front, use the outermost hole on the Pro-Line hub carrier, and for the inner, again, use whatever hole keeps the link level or to just barely lower on the inner side mounting position. Shock towers are the biggest area where our trucks differ - I tried the Pro-Line towers and didn't car for them too much (too much flex, too few shock & camber link mounting choices for me), so I went with the Anza towers instead. These allow for very long/very low camber link mounting, that helps the Rustlers handling quite a bit. Don't worry too much about initial body roll - with a lower roll center and a low CG, it will only go so far then stop, and what it does roll (as long as it's low) will actually help side to side weight transfer for more grip.

    You're also correct that the Losi shocks are probably a little too long for the truck. The 22T's use shock towers that are much taller, so the extra length is on the top side for shock absorption. With the shorter towers on the Rustler the extra length winds up going to the bottom side in the form of more suspension negative travel (droop), which the truck doesn't like. Too much suspension droop on the Rustler leads to excessive weight transfer (front or rear) which will cause a lack of traction at the opposite end of the truck during braking/steering or acceleration. I run very little negative suspension travel to keep things tight, and so far that's worked out really well.

    Be careful on standing the shocks up more (vertical) - this will make the truck extremely sensitive to any input, to the point of making it very twitchy. I use (and recommend) the outermost holes on both the front & rear arms for shock mounting location on the bottom, and (with the Pro-Line towers) the innermost mounting location on the topside. Again, with the Anza towers I'm using I have a few more options, but either way I run the shocks with a more laid down angle. This makes the Rustler much more stable and consistent. Your shock oil weight (37.5 front/35 rear) and spring weight selection you mentioned should be good - I run the exact same oil weight combo as you, and about the same rate springs for off-road/clay.

    One last thing I can suggest, that I don't know if you've done anything with, is anti-squat. The stock trans case puts it at 1.5 degrees and there's not many good options to alter that. I run the RPM trans case that has the separate arm mounts, and it's "built in" setting is 3 degrees. I've found the optimum setting for most tracks to be 2 degrees. So you're probably close enough if you wanted to leave it alone, but if you ever wanted to mess with it, that's the angle that works best.

    I hope these suggestions are useful to you & can help. Good luck, and let us know what you wind doing & how the truck does.
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  35. #35
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips. The outer/bottom camber link in the rear is what I found worked best also. I had to move up to the top hole on the rear shock tower also. I haven't played with the front too much, as it seemed to work fairly well, but I will mess with the outer caster block as well.

    I definitely have been looking at the Anza shock towers, especially for the front. I think the reason Proline went with the wide shock towers is so that customers could keep their same shocks and get the same leverage they had (so basically same damping/spring) without changing anything, but I'm coming around to thinking they may not work well for our purposes.

    Good tip on the anti-squat.
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  36. #36
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Got the Jconcepts SVT Raptor painted and mounted (yeah, I know I need to trim the bottom a little cleaner). Probably could trim the posts a mm or two shorter too.



    Last edited by RazorRC22; 10-25-2017 at 05:26 PM.
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  37. #37
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Since we are running many of the same components, some of the following suggestions should work out quite well for you. In the rear, use the outer, lower camber link hole on the hub, and whatever hole on the inner side that keeps the link level or to just barely lower on the inside.
    I was looking at the Anza rear shock tower, and noticed that the Protrac tower has one additional hole above the stock two holes which the Anza does not. I'm currently using that hole, and found it to be the best of the 3 Protrac holes. Might be a dealbreaker if I can't get the truck to work without using that hole.

    Don't worry too much about initial body roll - with a lower roll center and a low CG, it will only go so far then stop, and what it does roll (as long as it's low) will actually help side to side weight transfer for more grip.
    It definitely does seem that way. So far the lower the CG, the better the truck seems to drive. I'm going to remove a ton of droop from my truck next time out and see how that works. I compared my 22T to my Rustler, and the 22T has barely any droop at all, axles go down to about the bottom of the chassis at full extension and that's it.
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  38. #38
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Spent another few hours at the truck doing more testing/tuning. FTD was right on with running less droop, it made a huge difference and my truck is way more manageable now. I'll measure it when I get home, but axles are about inline with the bottom of the chassis F/R (a little more droop rear), and I'm thinking of running a couple of mm less. Also running less ride height (27mm) and stiffer springs and a little more rear damping.

    Current shock package:
    Front: TLR 22T shocks with blue TLR springs (3.8 rate). 37.5wt AE oil. Inner on top, outer on arm.
    Rear: TLR 22-4 shocks with orange TLR springs (2.9 rate). 37.5wt AE oil. Inner on top, 2nd outer on arm.

    This truck seems to like stiff springs/thick shock fluid. Tires are broken in now and gaining more traction, I think I might be able to run a little bit higher roll center now, it is rolling like crazy now, but sticking well.

    I'm also running a little more preload on the right side where the ESC is, because I noticed the truck rolling more on the right than on the left, and it definitely is not balanced. I need to figure out a way to mount the ESC inline, I think that would make a huge difference.

    About 85% of the way there. Solid B.
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  39. #39
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I wasn't too happy with the stock bumper, because it sticks out really far and tends to slam into the ground if you land nosedown. This upsets the truck on anything but a flat landing. A minute with a drill and I was able to tuck it in pretty tight, right up against the tiebar.

    Hopefully this doesn't cause the bulkhead to be too fragile. The wheels stick out further than the bumper anyway, so I don't think the bumper does much.



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  40. #40
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey Razor, love the new body - it looks really good. The JConcepts Raptor and the Silverado that I had definitely have an "old school" stadium truck feel to them that just seems to fit the Rustlers image so well. Also glad the suspension changes are working out well for you.

    I was thinking about your battery box dilemma, and I may have found a viable solution, if you haven't done anything with it yet. I was looking at my truck and I think the rear bulkhead/shock tower mount may work well. It would bolt in from the bottom with 3mm screws (you'd need to use flat head screws & countersink them), but it also is raised slighlty, so it should clear the "ribs" that are molded into the Rustler chassis. The mount comes in an "Internal Plastic Parts" kit for the Pro MT - part# 6262-02. You can see it on Pro-Lines site here; https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...placement-kit/. The only disadvantage to it is that it is discontinued from Pro-Line (so what else is new) & getting harder to find. Currently the only place I saw one was from RC Mart - they show to have good stock & it goes for $12.76. You can find it here; http://http://www.rcmart.com/proline-626202-promt-chassis-internal-plastic-replacement-p-66618.html?cPath=595_1723_1724

    I purchased this kit myself awhile ago to get the actual smaller battery stand off (that only comes in this kit) to do essentially the same thing you're doing but with my Pro MT chassis. Because I had to get the "whole" kit, I happen to have an extra one of these bulkheads, so I took some pictures for you to check out...


    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 10-27-2017 at 11:40 PM.
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