Step by step the last options arrive !!! (pics and lists)

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 02-25-2012, 07:09 PM

+1 on an awesome thread with awesome builds. I wish i had the money and time to do what you are doin.

**Popoxx** · 02-26-2012, 05:13 PM

Thanks guys and Wildman4910 for the links

And chestnutjazz I learnt to solder a long time ago

**petraeus** · 02-27-2012, 02:21 AM

Hi Popoxx

It's probably already mentioned. But did you use 1/8 scale diff or just standard, after you went CC Mambo Monster?
I'm about to upgrade my EMBE, and not sure if I should choose:

FLM Standard Bulkhead set

FLM Combo Bulkhead

FLM Ultimate Hybrid Bulk

Do you have any advice?

And if I choose the 1/8 diff - will gear ratio be different?

**Wildman4910** · 02-27-2012, 05:24 AM

Originally Posted by petraeus

Hi Popoxx

It's probably already mentioned. But did you use 1/8 scale diff or just standard, after you went CC Mambo Monster?
I'm about to upgrade my EMBE, and not sure if I should choose:

FLM Standard Bulkhead set

FLM Combo Bulkhead

FLM Ultimate Hybrid Bulk

Do you have any advice?

And if I choose the 1/8 diff - will gear ratio be different?

Stock Maxx/Revo diff is R&P ratio is 2.85, whatever buggy diff you go with you have to gear for to make up the difference.

**Popoxx** · 02-27-2012, 06:51 AM

Originally Posted by petraeus

Hi Popoxx

It's probably already mentioned. But did you use 1/8 scale diff or just standard, after you went CC Mambo Monster?
I'm about to upgrade my EMBE, and not sure if I should choose:

FLM Standard Bulkhead set

FLM Combo Bulkhead

FLM Ultimate Hybrid Bulk

Do you have any advice?

And if I choose the 1/8 diff - will gear ratio be different?

Well if you use a 6s setup, 1/8-scale diffs are a must have. And the FLM Ultimate Hybrid Bulks seem to be the new simpler and cheaper option (and maybe the best we'll see that soon). Diffs included are from Caster Racing (ZX-0114), FLM say they are good quality but I've never tested Caster parts personally. I know some guys of this forum bought these ultimate bulks but no review posted for the moment. Be the first to test them or wait for a few weeks

If you use a 4s setup, 1/8-scale diffs aren't really necessary, just buy stock diffs on ebay when you destroy one. I was fed up to replace the diffs (even if I destroyed them rarely) so I upgraded to 1/8 diffs. $$ is a thing to consider also

As Wildman4910 said, if you use 1/8 diffs the diff gear ratio will be different than the stock 2.85 (just divide the number of thooth of the diff ring gear by the number of thooth of the diff pinion gear). And with that info you can use this tool to choose the spur and pinion gears suitable for your driving style.

**Kcaz25** · 03-04-2012, 08:39 AM

Hey Popoxx! How long do your plastic shafts last?

-Zack

**Popoxx** · 03-04-2012, 03:51 PM

Glad to see you here again Zack !
The stock shafts are great on 4s, I think I've never broken one.
I replace them only when the drive yokes are damaged or when dust boosts are worn.

Today I cleaned my maxx and checked the critical points, the bent chassis brace is well bent !

Even the Axial post is bent !

**Kcaz25** · 03-04-2012, 05:22 PM

Well maybe I could go back to plastic shafts for a while. I have calmed all my MMM setting quite a bit since last I tried. I know you have mild MMM settings. Can you point me to a place in your thread where you have your settings listed? Also I only run 4s.

lol Indeed it is!! Bent!! Have you ever contacted FLM about their warranty policy?

As an aside: Don't you really like the front arm brace from FLM? It really helps the hinge pins! I see that you have it on the rear, because you having GARC bulks don't have the brace included in the bulk like you know FLM has.

**Popoxx** · 03-04-2012, 07:16 PM

Here are my MMM settings (I prefer posting them again because it's really boring to find them in my long long thread

):

I didn't contact FLM yet, I'll do tomorrow. Their front arm brace is really inventive indeed, it avoid bending those !"%#!! hinge pins (ejector pins are stronger by far, love them). Too bad I can't use this brace with my RPM arms, it rubs against the steering bellcrank, and I can't use FLM lower arms because the shocks rub against the driveshafts... I know I can upgrade with CVDs but I really love the stock driveshafts

**bentrocker** · 03-05-2012, 06:16 AM

How did you ever bend the chassis like that?

**Popoxx** · 03-05-2012, 08:43 AM

BMX track, high jump, and I landed on a rock off the track, the noise was horrible

**Popoxx** · 03-09-2012, 03:51 PM

News from FLM for my bent chassis brace : $7 to replace it and $14 for another one (love spare

).

**Popoxx** · 09-10-2012, 12:59 PM

I'm always addicted don't worry

My maxx is almost fixed, I just need an UE shock standoff.

What's new ? :

- Ejector pins :

I use Berger Tools pins now, this supplier can cut them to the length I need (3.06") and they are sturdier than the Plastixs pins I used before (I can't cut them with a bolt cutter !).
The ejector pins can't move thanks to the bumper mounts and skidplate. "Plug and play"

Front

I can't replace the front lower hinge pins because of the shape of my skidplate. I keep using Lunsford hinge pins here.

Rear

- Chassis braces : I replaced the bent chassis brace with a new one and 1offrc anodized it (fast and great job).

- Body posts : new ones from RC Raven :

With HPI body clips (really hard to bend !). RC Raven nylon seems similar to RPM nylon so I hope these posts will hold out. UE posts included with the shock towers aren't a direct fit (they have to be cut/drilled, boring...

).

**Popoxx** · 09-10-2012, 01:00 PM

- Body protection : I cut pieces of lexan from a Parma clear lexan sheet (.030") to protect the body (clips always destroy the body holes during hard landings

).

Now I need time to test these mods. Last time I run my maxx was in September, 2011...

**M n M** · 09-10-2012, 01:41 PM

Awesome... Glad to see you're back at it!

**Wildman4910** · 09-10-2012, 05:09 PM

Trucks lookin gooood, you need to keep away from those pesky rocks tho, they like to break expensive parts!

Ofna shock mounts work too, tho they are not as custom looking as the UE mounts.
Ofna #40531 Short

Ofna #41010 Long

Below are the Ofna #40531 short mounts, I have a washer under it as I think it's a little too short & plan to order the long mounts to try them.

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 09-10-2012, 07:37 PM

So, at some point I'd like to see a grand total for all this...

But I understand if that is sensored information because your wife/siginifiant other might find it if you post it on the web

This has to be the best MAXX ive seen since AoD's GMaxx

**trax de max** · 09-11-2012, 03:45 AM

the body protection pieces work wonders i have a piece on the rear as that's all smashed up.

**Popoxx** · 09-18-2012, 03:54 PM

Always a pleasure to read those nice comments thanks

Wildman4910 : I bought the long ones as you advised me a few months ago but they don't fit like I want unfortunately (perfect length nevertheless !).

PowerToTheMaxx : $2638.66 (w/o lipo packs) ! (and now I have to run far from home !!

). By the way if somebody wants my E-Maxx part list with all the details I just updated the Excel file. PM me.

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 09-19-2012, 05:52 PM

Just read the entire thread. Took me 2 weeks worth of free time, but I got it done. Thanks for making all the mistakes so I dont have to.

How do those UE diffs compare to LOSI LST diffs? they both have very good reps, but Ue diffs are like $300 and losi diffs are $35 a pop on Ebay

**Popoxx** · 09-22-2012, 05:34 AM

It's the best part to test upgrades

(not the cheapest for sure...).

I've never tested the LOSI LST diffs because my UE diffs work flawlessly.
They are really expensive but they are top notch and it's a direct fit.

All the upgrades I use can be installed by everyone, no need of specific tools, this is the guiding principle of this build (and not the cheapest choice once again).

I run a 4S lipo setup so these UE diffs + stock driveshafts is a perfect combo for me.
I like the power-to-weight ratio of my maxx, I won't upgrade to 6S

**vwbug** · 09-23-2012, 03:41 PM

post a bashing vid!

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 09-23-2012, 09:02 PM

Those are black anodized aluminum diff cases, right?

**Popoxx** · 09-24-2012, 05:49 AM

Originally Posted by vwbug

post a bashing vid!

I hope I could post a new one soon...

Search "popoxx maxx" on Youtube if you've never watched my previous vids.

Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx

Those are black anodized aluminum diff cases, right?

Indeed ! Black anodized UE UltraLite 7.5 diff cases.

**MooseSlash** · 09-24-2012, 10:41 PM

One hot Maxx.

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 09-25-2012, 04:54 PM

Muchos gracias señor

**Nepptune** · 10-03-2012, 09:12 AM

I'd like to add a huge thanks to all the others that have been paid to you Popoxx....

As a really new RCer, but someone who has dived into this game head and wallet first, I am about to embark on my FLM E-Maxx build, and was pretty scared shirtless until steered to this thread by another member... while I'm still scared shirtless, as I have no where near the technical knowhow you do, I at least know there is a thread for reference, as well as alot of info on possible problems and issues I may come across during my build, so a huge thanks from me for all your time and effort in posting this all, and sharing with us!

Respect!

Dre

**Popoxx** · 10-04-2012, 03:54 PM

Thanks for this warm praise Nepptune

**EMaxx_Quebec** · 10-04-2012, 06:55 PM

Thanks Popox, from a gurou like you, our tread beeing posted as a reference is appreciate.
My maxx is pulling the kids more ofen than bashing at this moment.
Respect!

Fred

**Nepptune** · 10-05-2012, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by Popoxx

Thanks for this warm praise Nepptune

Thanks man, that is AWESOME!!!!

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 10-05-2012, 02:33 PM

What are some good skid plates these days? Everything Ive seen recommended so far has been out of production for several years.

Are FLMs ok or do they bend to easily? Im just running a single KD 700-HO, but im starting to jump and I want to strengthen my chassis-bulk connection, and protect the front of the truck.

**Popoxx** · 10-06-2012, 04:10 AM

RC Solutions skids seem to be great. Made from spring steel. pdcsq uses/recommends them (#169). Best compromise between nylon and alu.

A single bad landing is enough to bend your skids (even FLM-alu or HCR-titanium skids). Mine are bent, I cut them so that they fit between the bumper mounts and behind the bumpers.

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 10-06-2012, 08:16 AM

Thanks a bunch

**dmanou99** · 10-14-2012, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by Popoxx

RC Solutions skids seem to be great. Made from spring steel. pdcsq uses/recommends them (#169). Best compromise between nylon and alu.

A single bad landing is enough to bend your skids (even FLM-alu or HCR-titanium skids). Mine are bent, I cut them so that they fit between the bumper mounts and behind the bumpers.

I also use this skidplate ... but I have re-enforced it with pieces of foam, taken from Traxxas's accessories packaging, shaped into a triangle:

**turbo_cat1** · 10-14-2012, 07:45 PM

I love how this build has evolved. If nothing else, we all - myself included - walk away with some thoughts on how to apply what you've done to our own trucks. Thank you, Popoxx.

**PowerToTheMaxx** · 10-18-2012, 07:51 PM

SO can you use the RC solutions plate with the stock bumper? I know its kinda made to fit with their roll cages...

Kool idea on that foam, How stiff is it/were did you get it?

**Wildman4910** · 10-19-2012, 02:35 AM

Originally Posted by dmanou99

but I have re-enforced it with pieces of foam, taken from Traxxas's accessories packaging, shaped into a triangle:

I never toss that foam out either, its very dense & makes for a great cushion like that.

**e-revo** · 10-19-2012, 11:53 AM

Originally Posted by Popoxx

dude thats so cool I LOVE IT!!!!!!!

**Popoxx** · 08-29-2014, 04:12 PM

My E-Maxx says hello from Brittany (France) after 2 years of hibernation

Still running great

**Wildman4910** · 08-31-2014, 10:20 PM

Happy to see you back, didn't you know your only supposed to hibernate though the winter only?!

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