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  1. #1
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    Must have upgrades for the E-Revo?

    Not sure if this type of thread has been posted on here, but what are some obligatory upgrades for the E-Revo when it comes out?

    I plan to make one big order @ tower for things ill probably upgrade straight away (ie arms etc)

    Im fairly cluey on what to upgrade on an emaxx but the e-revo seems to be a whole different kettle of fish.

    Im thinking of going with the RPM front arms, bumper (front/rear), true track at the end.


    What about bulks? (i know these seem to be a must have upgrade for the 3905, but what about the revo?)

    Im mainly a basher, but wouldn't mind joining in on the odd race or two.

    I'd like to upgrade the shafts straight out of the box, are there any centre CVD's available for the revo/erevo right now? (I tend to mangle the centre shafts on my maxx fairly ofter, hah)
    E-Revo / Castle Creations 2200Kv

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I think you are getting too excited myself..

    My list would be a little different that what you have up there..

    • I would be thinking about brushless out of the box, go with a Neu 1515 1.5d or 1y (or the castle or impakt-rc versions)
    • I would be getting a Mamba Monster Max esc
    • I would be going 4s or better lipo w/ charger (that emaxx 8k kit w/ the duo from maxamps is awesome)


    Now... for parts to upgrade
    • RPM arms on the front, true tracks on the rear is a great upgrade
    • Wheelie bar is needed if you go brushless


    That is it, spend the rest on the brushless setup & bashing/racing

    Ive been running the stock shafts in my erevo for quite a while and they are great. Keep a spare set to swap out if you run into something but other than that just play and smile
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

  3. #3
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    I have yet to break the bulkheads on my revo yet. Arms are good to get. Upgrade them or atleast have them ready. How are the differentials in the new e-revo? If they are the stock revo. You might consider having the newer emaxx gears on hand. I also recommend staying with the stock shafts. I bought the steel shafts for no other reason then just the looks of them. They do well but already had one get bent. I think it was close to $10 just to get another steel shaft.

    Stumblin how are the true tracks on you revo. Do you notice any difference from the standard RPM arms? Is your integy wheelie bar still hanging in there? I lost my some time ago on a bad landing. Busted it off, the landing would of busted any wheelie bar off though.
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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gee
    Stumblin how are the true tracks on you revo. Do you notice any difference from the standard RPM arms? Is your integy wheelie bar still hanging in there? I lost my some time ago on a bad landing. Busted it off, the landing would of busted any wheelie bar off though.
    • upgraded diffs in the erevo (similar to 3905)
    • feels like a bit more control to be honest.. but I didn't make it on the track again due to weather so that will be the true test.
    • wheelie bar is a mess but still hanging on.. I was about to order another, but I saw that new one from traxxas on the show model and I'll be snagging asap.
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

  5. #5
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    where can i get the rear arms that you talk about i didn't heard of them

    thank's

  6. #6
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    You are only as good as your weakest link.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    got my true tracks on ebay.. was super cheap.
    eRevo Neu 1515 1.5d MMM Maxamps 4-2s2p8k 2-3s2p8k

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumblin
    • upgraded diffs in the erevo (similar to 3905)
    • feels like a bit more control to be honest.. but I didn't make it on the track again due to weather so that will be the true test.
    • wheelie bar is a mess but still hanging on.. I was about to order another, but I saw that new one from traxxas on the show model and I'll be snagging asap.
    I haven't even looked at the new e-revo yet or the platnum. I will have to take a look at it and the new bar. Everytime I thought about getting another wheelie bar seems something else sucked that money up first. Thanks for the info.
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  9. #9
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    I hate wheelie bars, so I suggest the swept back arms...cuts out the goofy wheelies and just leaves the power wheelies that you can control. I have now broke a shock shaft and pulled one knuckle off...so I vote for aluminum knuckles in the front at least.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the reply. Can you link me up to a good quality knuckle from tower?..i put in "revo knuckle" but didnt come up with anything...
    E-Revo / Castle Creations 2200Kv

  11. #11
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    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPPN0&P=7

    that will work, tower calls them steering blocks for some reason. Any aluminum ones will work, the plastic just pulls the pillowballs right out.

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gee
    I have yet to break the bulkheads on my revo yet. ......
    It can be done! I'm curious if the new chassis will protect them any better or not.

    Mine was done by missing the ramp to a jump at WOT. Left wheel caught a square edge of the sidewalk. Bent frame. Broken front bulk head. Broke my new Picco .26 right out of the body frame, it was dangling on by my onboard temp wires. Sad day. Stupid driving creates stupid results.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ajb1205's Avatar
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    I have ordered the Traxxas extended a-arms, aluminum pushrods and turnbuckles and the sway bar kit (off the platinum). I'll eventually throw on some 17mm hubs and some aftermarket rims/tires but the stockers will do for now since I also have my nitro Revo stock rims and tires still hanging around to use as well. The only other couple things I may also get are RMP bumpers and front a-arms. As far as driveshafts go, you shouldn't have any issues with the stockers (Traxxas did not put their cvds on the Platinum so that should tell you how durable the plastic ones are).
    Kraken Baja
    Traxxas X-Maxx

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by outkast187
    I hate wheelie bars, so I suggest the swept back arms...cuts out the goofy wheelies and just leaves the power wheelies that you can control. I have now broke a shock shaft and pulled one knuckle off...so I vote for aluminum knuckles in the front at least.

    If I remember correctly, The E-revo is already 10mm longer then the 3.3 revo.

    Here's where I got it from...this is a response from tim roberts to someone asking about the e-revo body fitting the revo...

    "We had to stretch the chassis of ERevo by 10mm over the Revo 3.3 for a grand total of +40mm from Revo 2.5. We need more room in the chassis for motors and batteries. I haven't put a ERevo body on a nitro truck, but I think it will fit fine without the roll hoop. The body is really low, I bet the engine sticks out above the top of the cab area.-Tim Roberts"

    from here http://www.revo-world.com/forums/sho...?t=3266&page=3

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