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  1. #41
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    It is a 1515 2D.

    Which Novak controller will handle more than the MGM 16018?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by koden
    Which Novak controller will handle more than the MGM 16018?
    Ditto that, as HV4.5s have been known to overheat easily, and the thermal shutdown is usually too late to prevent damage to the HV-Maxx ESC.

    Greg
    E-Revo - IB4200's - Single 700HO - Black Chassis

  3. #43
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    None, lol. The hvmaxx escs are rated for 400amps per phase = bogus specs. They can handle about 30-70 amps, beyond that they overheat and die- never the same after they thermal usually.
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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoovHartid
    in the pics, its a 1515.

    and I think you mean mamba monster. the max isnt rated for MT and 1/8 use
    he probably meant monster, but the mamba max with a fan and ubec is plenty for a revo on 4s I had over 20 hours on mine when my Monster came back to me and not it collects dust waiting for it's next home!

    Last edited by DickyT; 08-27-2008 at 12:27 PM.
    Run it, break it, fix it, love it :]=~

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoovHartid
    in the pics, its a 1515.

    and I think you mean mamba monster. the max isnt rated for MT and 1/8 use
    Sorry. I got ahead of myself there.

    The Neumotor 1515-1Y is what Castle recommends. The 1515-2D reads utterly identically but there must be some difference I haven't found to read on yet. This may have resulted in the burn-up. Maybe it is more surge prone.

    I am more likely to accept a faulty ESC for Koden's burn-up, but I still feel it is Amp overdraw. My calculations read a reasonable margin of just under 9 Amps, but it could be enough to cause, in five minutes, the ESC to fry or overheat badly.

    Electrical resistance seems to be much higher than the Mamba Monster. More resistance more heat.

    I'm studying this, but I still recommend getting a specifically marketed ESC like the Mamba Monster or a Traxxas VXl ESC (though I'm not sure if it can hold such a motor as the Neumotor 1515-2D), Novak and Tekin will have theirs as well.
    Dang! The tires melted again!

  6. #46
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    Well, the 280amp MGM is on its way. We'll see how it works. I may add fans to it if it doesn't have them already. Hopefully I see it in a week or so. I'll have to take some videos to catch the flames if they happen again.

    If I smoke this one I will shelf the Erevo until next spring. Rainy season is almost here. The other manufacturers should have their bugs worked out by then.

  7. #47
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    I think I will also run a receiver pack for the BEC power. I have a few laying around that should work fine.

    It seems allot of ESC meltdowns might be due to BEC voltage spikes.

    On a completely unrelated note I bought a used set of Proline Moab/Mambo tires/wheels off ebay (wheels have seen some use but tires are almost new). The stock tires are way too soft and tore up pretty quick (it doesnt help when the dog bites them either I guess). I'll try and post up a pic this weekend.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by koden
    Well, the 280amp MGM is on its way. We'll see how it works. I may add fans to it if it doesn't have them already. Hopefully I see it in a week or so. I'll have to take some videos to catch the flames if they happen again.

    If I smoke this one I will shelf the Erevo until next spring. Rainy season is almost here. The other manufacturers should have their bugs worked out by then.
    Let me know how you like it. I plan on purchasing one of those as well. Did you get a active cooled one or not?

  9. #49
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    Not sure what one they are sending me. Probably just the dual heat sink option like I had on the 16018.

  10. #50
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    Well, no MGM controller yet. I got tired of waiting for it to arrive and one of my LHS had some V2 MMM's in stock so I picked one up. Got done mounting and wiring it up. I have not programmed it yet but I should be able to do that tomorrow and take a quick run.

    I mounted the ESC on an aluminum plate using the stock ESC mounting holes. I used Velcro versus servo tape per Castle's recommendation. The plate and velcro will act as shock absorbers if I make a hard landing so we'll see how it works out. I want to secure it a little more with a tie wrap but don't want to impede airflow so I am working that out still.

    I made a receiver battery mount above the tranny and I will not be running the internal BEC. With this setup I am not too worried about the extra weight. It's tough keeping the nose down anyhow.

    Here are some pics. I have not replaced the discolored chassis yet so it wont win any shows but ah well. The chassis is structurally sound.

    Let me know if the pics are too big and I will reduce them.




















  11. #51
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    looks good man, nice and clean, all connected right (find out if the motor is tomorrow) you're ready, where did you get that shrink wrap, id pull up a pic cuz I have the same stuff that matches the wires, $4.00 from some harbor freight competitor, looks sweet

  12. #52
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    yeah, keep us informed since I am really interested in if using the battery helps with the bec issues, if that is in fact what the fails are from. I have the ext bec on the way with my second mmm.. keep your fingers crossed.

  13. #53
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    Ran the truck today for the first time. Geared 26/68 (its the stock spur). ESC fan never came on and checking the ESC with a temp gun it never got above 120. Batteries were at 115 and motor got up to 155. I think with the new wheels and tires I need to drop the pinion a few teeth. Motor will probably get hotter as I run it longer and harder but I did do quite a few 100 yard full throttle passes in the school yard next to my house. I checked temps after each pass and no concerns. Scary fast. Wish I had a radar gun.

    I weighed the Revo on the shipping scale at work. With batteries (including the receiver pack) and the new tires and wheels it was 12.1 lbs.

  14. #54
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    Good luck with it Koden!

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by koden
    Ran the truck today for the first time. Geared 26/68 (its the stock spur). ESC fan never came on and checking the ESC with a temp gun it never got above 120. Batteries were at 115 and motor got up to 155. I think with the new wheels and tires I need to drop the pinion a few teeth. Motor will probably get hotter as I run it longer and harder but I did do quite a few 100 yard full throttle passes in the school yard next to my house. I checked temps after each pass and no concerns. Scary fast. Wish I had a radar gun.

    I weighed the Revo on the shipping scale at work. With batteries (including the receiver pack) and the new tires and wheels it was 12.1 lbs.
    Sick, man!!! get some video clips when you get a chance!!! Would love to peep it!
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by koden


    PS: what kind of battery connectors are you using? they are completely flush!
    I have never seen those "bullet" connectors before (seems like that is what you used?), but I would assume that they don't have a means of interlocking... or do they?
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  17. #57
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    those are just bullet connectors with the same color shrink wrap as the wire covering the female ends.

  18. #58
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    Bullet connectors have metal prongs on the male side (like a castle turret), and a smooth round hole on the female side- they simply push together like male and female 'bits' do (hence the 'male' and 'female')- its a fairly tight connection, so no other locking mechanism is required ordinarily.
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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suicideneil
    Bullet connectors have metal prongs on the male side (like a castle turret), and a smooth round hole on the female side- they simply push together like male and female 'bits' do (hence the 'male' and 'female')- its a fairly tight connection, so no other locking mechanism is required ordinarily.
    Cool, do they require a lot of pressure to separate? Can they take more current than Dean's/Traxxas connectors?
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  20. #60
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    Nope, not at all really (just use glue-lined heatshrink tubing to avoid it sliding off as you grasp them), and yes- the larger sized ones (5.5mm and 6.5mm) can handle upwards of 150-200amps, compared to 65amps for deans and trx plugs. They are also a doddle to solder compared to anything else.
    READ THE FAQ!
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  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suicideneil
    Nope, not at all really (just use glue-lined heatshrink tubing to avoid it sliding off as you grasp them), and yes- the larger sized ones (5.5mm and 6.5mm) can handle upwards of 150-200amps, compared to 65amps for deans and trx plugs. They are also a doddle to solder compared to anything else.
    Very cool! Thank you.
    In our applications 150-200 amps is overkill correct? 2S LiPo provides 15-20 amps?
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  22. #62
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    The weak link on my car is the wires going into the Motor. They are the smallest diameter (14awg?).

    If you look at this link they have a 1515 1.5 dyno sheet. Looks like it drew about 35 amps at 15v.

    http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Dyno_data.html


    I wanted to go with 10awg but that is just too big for my Trakpower bullets. I ended up with 12awg
    Last edited by koden; 09-18-2008 at 04:53 PM.

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by koden
    The weak link on my car is the wires going into the Motor. They are the smallest diameter (14awg?).

    If you look at this link they have a 1515 1.5 dyno sheet. Looks like it drew about 35 amps at 15v.

    http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Dyno_data.html


    I wanted to go with 10awg but that is just too big for my Trakpower bullets. I ended up with 12awg
    10AWG! Man, this RC electric stuff is getting out of control! hah.
    Pretty soon we are going to be using standard wall plugs lol...
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  24. #64
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    Koden...

    Congradulations !

    Your 'ride' is sweet. Looks like a lot of thought went into your work, which is, BTW, very first class. I downloaded all your photos and will refer to them when I start building my ride (this weekend).

    A few questions for you if I may... Where did you get the colored shrink wrap ? I can only find black... and what did you shrink it with... matches, heat gun? I use matches (by the million) and always manage to smoke the wrap in a few spots. Also heating up my fingers isn't the most pleasant either !!! (I bought a hair dryer.. does not work too well)

    Why did you decide on using a battery to power the receiver instead of an external BEC? Like you, I was going to use a battery pack, as I have several laying around... looking around the car for a location I found the pack to weigh quite a bit... I have a Castle BET and am now thinking about using it.

    Good luck with your new setup which is very very rad... and Thanks for the pics!

    Steve

    edit:added below....

    How do you connect the battery's to the charger? Did you make up a special harness?
    Last edited by smeyers2; 09-18-2008 at 11:52 PM.

  25. #65
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    I recommend this for shrink wrap shrinking, temp adjustable, has a torch attachment like the high powerered wind lighters, shrinks the wrap nice and precisely. Can always use it as an iron on the feild if need be. ($5 cheaper if you go to the store)
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by smeyers2
    Where did you get the colored shrink wrap and what did you shrink it with...

    Why did you decide on using a battery to power the receiver instead of an external BEC?

    How do you connect the battery's to the charger? Did you make up a special harness?
    Hey there,

    I bought the shrink wrap at my LHS, Coyote Hobby in Oregon City, OR. I think I bought 2 bags and they have varying sizes and colors in each bag. And like JayJay said, I also use a butane soldering iron to solder. It has a hot air tip that I use to do the shrink wrap but even the solder tip has gas vents that work fine for shrinking also. Very cool tool. Mine is a Weller Portasol (old version).

    CC has been having issues with their controllers and one of their techs recommended using a receiver pack instead of using the internal BEC. He said the issues have never come from the main power circuit in the controller.

    For the charging harness I bought a prebuilt harness but it had the wrong connector for the balancer. So I found another harness with the right connector and made my own. I have pics that I will post up this weekend if you would like to see it.

  27. #67
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    Also, I just received my replacement MGM controller. It is a 28025 with heat sinks only. I will try and get it mounted sometime next week.

    Upon inspection of the MGM controller 6 of the 8 screws that hold the heat sinks in place are loose. I can rock one of the heat sinks back and forth.

    If anyone gets one I would inspect it closely. I don't think they are suppose to be loose but I sent off an email to make sure it is ok to tighten them. I am not messing with it until I get the ok from MGM.

  28. #68
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    Thanks koden... I have a butane torch by the same company... I used it for a few tankfuls, then put it away. Took it out the other day to solder. It was empty... filled it up and it leaks like crazy. I took it all apart... the sound is coming from the valve where you fill it. I will try and fix it again! You are correct in that it did an awsome job of shrinking the shring tubing (I forgot)

    I missed jayjay's post.. must has been posting at the same time. There is a Radio Shack right up the street from me. $21 is not bad... The Portasol cost me near $100. Thanks jayjay for the info.

    I will check around some more for the colored tubing... the LHS in your area is a mite far for me!
    Last edited by smeyers2; 09-19-2008 at 12:40 AM.

  29. #69
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    Here's a couple pics of how loose the heat sinks screws are on my replacement MGM...

    No word back from them on what to do about it.







    In the second pic you can see the back 2 screws have washers under the head. I am thinking they all should have them. I dont want to tighten them and have them ground out on something or break a board.

  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by smeyers2
    How do you connect the battery's to the charger? Did you make up a special harness?
    I bought 2 parts:

    Parkzone part number PKZ1053 and used the white connector off of that.

    Trakpower part number FPWC0125 and replaced the black connector with the white one.

    Here is the final result:


  31. #71
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    i dont know why those screws are loose... i would not try and tighten them it might break the esc

  32. #72
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    "I dont want to tighten them and have them ground out on something or break a board." Koden

    I think he knows

  33. #73
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    Well, I got the go-ahead to carefully tighten them. The head broke off the first one I tried to turn. They were already snug and I guess it was just too much for the small shaft. It is on its way back to MGM and I am awaiting my 3rd controller from them.

    Meanwhile the MMM V2 continues to work fine using 4S and a receiver pack instead of the BEC.
    Last edited by koden; 09-25-2008 at 11:32 AM.

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by koden
    Well, I got the go-ahead to carefully tighten them. The head broke off the first one I tried to turn. They were already snug and I guess it was just too much for the small shaft. It is on its way back to MGM and I am awaiting my 3rd controller from them.

    Meanwhile the MMM V2 continues to work fine using 4S and a receiver pack instead of the BEC.
    Thats a huge bummer. Sorry to hear.
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  35. #75
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    Still waiting on my 2nd replacement ESC from MGM. Unbelievable.

    My MMM is working fine but have not used the internal BEC. Once the new MMM case design is out I will run the BEC and see if it toasts.

  36. #76
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    They really take their time... did they say anything about the screws? Why they were too long obviously?

  37. #77
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    I was wondering the same thing. I thought that maybe they were the screws used for mounting the fans on the heatsink, but those look different on their website pics.

    definatly weird. I cany wait until all these High-power brushless systems get their act together...
    be nice.

  38. #78
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    I have not gotten a reply from them in over a week.

    The screws actually thread into one of the fiberglass PCB's. I assume that the holes in the PCB are a little on the tight side. Doesn't seem like a very good mounting solution.

  39. #79
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    well esc manufactures sure seem to be on the blond side lately.

  40. #80
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    Must have to do with the redesign... the screws on my 16018 look just the same, only they do fit. Perhaps they noticed too late that their "old" screws won't fit the new controllers.

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