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  1. #1
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    Help with a Sledgehammer trans/yoke

    Hello, I just got a Sledgehammer in an ebay lot and so far everything seems to be working on it but one thing.

    The "passenger" side output yoke from the transmission is broken, the tabs are busted off where the U-joint attaches to the axle shaft. I have the axles and U-joint, I just have no way to get the yoke off as it looks like it has no screws or hexhead keeping it on. It doesn't have the side pins like newer XL-5's or VXL's and no center screw like the older XL-1 setups.

    I have never seen one of these trucks before now so to me, it looks like the yoke is actually a part of the trans differential. Does anyone know if that's true? If so, can I swapout the old diff for a newer version like goes in an XL-5 or VXL? That way I can get the screwin type yokes to work on it.

    Any help would be great!


    Billy
    It SCREAMS like a cheerleader on helium!

  2. #2
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    Hello Billy,

    Sounds like a familiar problem[it was the first thing to go bad on my old Hawk]

    You will have to remove the transmission from the chassis to repair the problem.
    After you remove the trans. open it up and you will see that the output yokes are held in place by two C-clips[one per side],pop the C-clips off and the yoke pulls free.

    The Sledgehammer shares the same trans. as the original Hawk,the Bullet and the Radicator. I was told the only real difference is the Transmission Case itself. But the Sledgehammer also uses a slightly larger primary drive gear which gives it more torque and slightly less top end than it's truck and buggy cousins.

    Good luck with your project. Be sure to post a pic or two of your truck,the Hammer is one popular vintage truck around here.
    Bullet/Bullet2 / Hawk2/ Blue Eagle/E-Maxx/T-Maxx

  3. #3
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    Hey Marv, thank you for the info!

    I tried looking up the exploded parts view here on Traxxas but it doesn't have that available online. I did get the part number list but I can't figure out which part number I need for that yoke. Any idea what that part number is and where I might be able to find one for purchase?


    Billy

    EDIT: Is this the correct part number?

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJH42&P=7

    If so, at least I know I can find them, I just have to wait a bit.
    Last edited by Billy Bennett; 10-09-2008 at 12:42 PM.
    It SCREAMS like a cheerleader on helium!

  4. #4
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    That looks like the right yokes...

    Is your truck an original white chassis or a black one? We love pics.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by wvchevy
    That looks like the right yokes...

    Is your truck an original white chassis or a black one? We love pics.
    It's a black chassis and so is everything else on the truck. I got this in an ebay aucton along with an old XL-1 Stampede, XL-1 Rustler and Tamiya 4x4 truck chassis. I have also seen that Tamiya chassis setup for onroad use.

    The auction was a great deal and I wasn't sure anything would actually work but the price I paid was good even if everything was parts only. the good news is that by doing some cleaning and moving around of components, 3 of the 4 vehicles now run! All I need is to get this yoke situation taken care of and all 4 vehicles will be up and running.

    I'll try and get some pics of the Sledge and other old school trucks up this weekend for yall. My garage is now "stocked" with 10 RC vehicles and room is getting tight!


    Billy
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  6. #6
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    Glad to help.


    Yes sir,those are the puppies you need.

    After my little yoke explosion,I was lucky enough to have spares but knowing how brittle some parts are on these vintage rides, I bought a set of those new black ones for back up.

    Congrats man,sounds like you scored heavy on flea bay. Looking forward to the pics.
    Bullet/Bullet2 / Hawk2/ Blue Eagle/E-Maxx/T-Maxx

  7. #7
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    Don't get to many vintage questions these days!

    If you want to have a look at the Sledge Hammer assembly manual, I have one hosted on my website (see link at bottom of post). Feel free to download that.

    Okay. I would recommend upgrading your differential in your Sledge Hammer. Those old joints are a pain in the rear to work with. Thankfully, the Nitro Stampede differential is a direct fit in the Sledge Hammer. Install that with the internal differential gears and you will be able to use the newer style output yokes on your Sledge Hammer. I did that on my Sledge Hammer, and I am very happy with the upgrade... no more digging into the tranny just to remove the output yokes!

    http://www.huronoutfittersracing.com...blymanuals.htm
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool
    Don't get too many vintage questions these days!
    Glad I could liven things up a bit. I used to run hobby RC's way back in the late 80's and early 90's so I am a vintage guy myself. I never had any Traxxas stuff but I did have a few Tamiya kits that I really enjoyed. I had the Lunchbox, Clodbuster, Grasshopper, Hornet and an onroad pan car made by Bolink.


    If you want to have a look at the Sledge Hammer assembly manual, I have one hosted on my website (see link at bottom of post). Feel free to download that.

    Wow, thanks! I had been digging around online for this for the past few days with no results. I appreciate the help on that one.


    Okay. I would recommend upgrading your differential in your Sledge Hammer. Those old joints are a pain in the rear to work with. Thankfully, the Nitro Stampede differential is a direct fit in the Sledge Hammer. Install that with the internal differential gears and you will be able to use the newer style output yokes on your Sledge Hammer. I did that on my Sledge Hammer, and I am very happy with the upgrade... no more digging into the tranny just to remove the output yokes!

    Very nice. That sounds like the thing to do if I plan to run this often. I'm not sure how often I'll run this so I plan to try and find those yokes first. If I can't get them anytime soon, then I'll check on getting the diff as I'm sure they are on ebay and Tower. At least I have lots of the newer style yokes lying around I can use if I get problems with it again.

    Thanks again for all the help guys. I'll get some pics for you this weekend.


    Billy
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  9. #9
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    Even if you are only planning on running the Sledge Hammer every now and then, I would still recommend the N-Pede diff setup. That factory joint setup is annoying. I especially hate installing the e-clips, which can be no fun at times.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the trans info cooleo...I also have a Sledgehammer and the output yolkes are constantly breaking. I was thinking about trying the Street Sport steel output yolkes...it looks like they might fit the Sledgehammer. Well, I was going to sell it but maybe I'll keep it now!

  11. #11
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    Yep,you gotta love crawlin' around on the floor, searching for the dreaded, escaped E-clip.

    That's why I magnetized a pair of needle-nosed Forceps.
    Even then I still get the odd escapee.
    Bullet/Bullet2 / Hawk2/ Blue Eagle/E-Maxx/T-Maxx

  12. #12
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    orion: Those steel Street Sport outputs wouldn't have been much better if they're like the steel stubs used on that vehicle. People tried using the stubs on their Stampede, and they were not durable at all.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool
    Even if you are only planning on running the Sledge Hammer every now and then, I would still recommend the N-Pede diff setup. That factory joint setup is annoying. I especially hate installing the e-clips, which can be no fun at times.
    Alright, I have been doing some digging around and I think I have what I need to order but I wanted to check with you guys first just to be sure.

    I checked here at Traxxas on parts lists and found under the parts exploded pics the Nitro Stampede parts:

    http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitr...amp_tranny.pdf

    The part number for the diff assembly is 4181. Here it is on Tower Hobbies:

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4181&search=Go

    If I am reading this correctly, the internal gears ( planetary and sun gears w/output yokes ) are exactly the same as the electric Rustler. Those parts are listed under both the Nitro Stampede and Electric Rustler as part number 2382. Here is the Tower link:

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ20&P=7


    So if I am not off my rocker, I need to buy the diff assembly 4181 and I can then use the internal gears that fit my electric Rusty as I have a few sets of these new at my house. If that's the case, I can get new gears for like $8 shipped, use the electric yokes I already have for the Rusty and get running in a week. That would be cool!

    Sorry I haven't posted pics yet but I should be doing that in the next day or so. Thanks in advance for any info you cab give.


    Billy
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  14. #14
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    Hello Billy,
    it would appear you have the situation well in hand. Good job with the research!

    Now get it together and have some vintage Fun!
    Bullet/Bullet2 / Hawk2/ Blue Eagle/E-Maxx/T-Maxx

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOPAR MARV
    Hello Billy,
    it would appear you have the situation well in hand. Good job with the research!

    Now get it together and have some vintage Fun!


    Cool beans, thanks for the support. I will be ordering these from Tower in the next few days as a friend is making an order and I'll tack these onto his order. Then I can get this badboy moving and get yall some action pics too.

    Thanks again for all the help.


    Billy
    It SCREAMS like a cheerleader on helium!

  16. #16
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    Yup, those are definitely the right parts. It's nice that some of the parts are interchangeable (like the diff internals). You will probably notice that getting the setscrew pins installed through the diff output holes is difficult, but it can be done. It's just a snug fit for some reason...
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  17. #17
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    Well, I finally got off my butt and took some pictures for you guys. I got the needed parts ordered and they should be to me by Tuesday or Wednesday next week. I'll keep yall updated.

    And now for pictures.....

    You'll notice there are no ESC or motor in the truck yet. I have an old XL-1 ESC and a motor similar to a Titan but with less turns that I am gonna throw in there when I get the parts next week.















    Hope you lke the pics and I'll update when I get parts.


    Billy
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  18. #18
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    Looks pretty good, Billy. That's a Parma body, correct?
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  19. #19
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    Looks baaaadd billy! I wonder how it would look with some stampede arms....?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool
    Looks pretty good, Billy. That's a Parma body, correct?
    I'm pretty sure it is altho I can't find a logo or namebrand anywhere on it. It's an old Chevrolet body. It's kinda cool tho since it's retro like the truck, I just don't know how much I like the goofy body mounts. Seems like the body will sway and bounce around a lot with all those springs on the mounts.


    Billy
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  21. #21
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    Some people remove the springs from the posts and use screws to attach them, but I have just left the spring posts in pace.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  22. #22
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    So I know this thread is really old, but yesterday the "driver's side" yoke on my Sledge finally bit it after 20 something years. I've had a Nitro pede transmission for a while just in case, so I broke into it and was going to see about doing this diff swap deal. The pictures on this thread I'm guessing were lost many moons ago, so I just took them apart to see what I could figure out. I got the diffs apart and the center part of the diff with the stub axle things on it from the N-Pede sure enough slots right into the plastic housing from the sledge, but the gears dont' swap over exactly right. If you notice from the pictures, the sledge gears have spacer type things built into them. The N-Pede gears sit on little plastic spacers built into the diff housing. I may be missing something from the threads above, but how do you get the gears to line up properly with the little spacer deals missing?

    Click pictures to increase size




  23. #23
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    Hmm, I'm not quite sure I understand the question/problem. The internals should just pop right into the diff housing. Stick all four pins into the new diff housing, install the output gear/axle, install the four smaller gears, stick the other output gear on top, put the cap on, and screw it down.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  24. #24
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    Here is a better picture showing the difference. The pede gears are on the left, original gears on the right. You can see the "spacer" deal I'm talking about more clearly here, as well as how the gears are not offset when using the pede gears. The pede diff has plastic spacers built into the housing to offset the gears.


  25. #25
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    Thanks for the picture, I see what you're saying now.

    I think there has been some confusion as to how to do this mod. You don't need to use anything from the original Sledge Hammer diff at all. You'll take the N-Stampede's plastic diff housing and use N-Stampede diff internals; those will work in the Sledge Hammer tranny. You're basically installing the entire N-Stampede diff into the Sledge Hammer and using more modern transmission yokes to improve working on the vehicle. The stock setup with the e-clips was horrible, so the N-Stampede diff is a huge quality of life improvement.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  26. #26
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    Oh. Well wow I was really overcomplicating this. I'll reassemble the diff with the original gears after work. Thanks!

  27. #27
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    Haha, I was a little confused at first because it should be a nice and simple drop-in mod. Hope it works well for you!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  28. #28
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    This got delayed due to some other projects, but last night I put the diffs back together and such. However, the transmission doesn't seem to fit together completely anymore. If I tighten it closed with the screws the gears won't turn at all. There were 2 little shims between the e clips and the bearings that held the old yokes in, are those shims supposed to be removed for this mod?

    I built this truck in 2000 so you'll have to forgive me for being such a noob.

  29. #29
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    Going to be honest, I don't recall about the shims. I would give it a shot without them to see if they're what is causing the binding issue.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  30. #30
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    I removed the shims, but it's still binding. It's kinda odd, it only binds in a certain spot in the rotation. It's very free for part of the rotation but then binds up. It's not terrible, but it definitely feels rough enough to cause issues.

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