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  1. #1
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Dekalb, IL

    Finally made it out for a bash... been a while. 2019/12/10

    Was supposed to be 50F out on Sunday... it reached 35F with 15-20mph winds... I ran anyway. Wanted to see how the max6/blx2050kv did in my ERBEv2.

    This truck started as a roller that I swapped what I could from my v1 over to. The MXL6S (MMv2) died on me on my second bash on 6S (lasted 3 years on 4S in my v1). I had put a spare F360C (MMv1) in it that I had.

    The new max6/blx2050kv combo seems to perform really well. The old HPI F360C (MMv1) it replaced was very chattery at anything below 1/4 throttle with sporadic cogging and a somewhat unpredictable power curve due to lack of punch settings. The max6 just worked. I had to dial the brakes back from 50% as they were a bit aggressive. Even with the punch just at 3, it really puts the power down well. Had some center diff issues that became increasingly more evident as I ran the truck, but I ran it hard anyway.

    Since the max6 covers up the factory esc tie down holes, I made a plate to screw down to the chassis in 3 places and put channels in it so I could strap the ESC down with zips. I put 4 cap head screws in the bottom of the ESC and put 4 holes in the plate for the heads to key into so they absorb most of the impact when landing on the nose. The zipties just kind of keep it on the truck.

    Shattered my TBone rear skid wheelie bar into pieces, snapped bolts off the TBone front skid and ripped a bolt out of the bulkhead holding the skid on. Also snapped my wing mount 2 minutes into the run. Odds are, tbone would replace the skid piece, but I'm not going to bother with them.

    BMX Video:

    Skatepark video:

    Busted skid/wheelie bar:

    When I got home, I made a new rear skid/wheelie bar attachment piece out of a sheet of kydex, looked into the 3mm screws that hold the front skid on that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead. Drilled them out and retapped and put 4mm bolts in. Then last night decided to look at the center diff. It's a total pain to get to as you have to remove the front skid, front tower and entire front assembly to get the transmission out as the front/center slider doesn't allow enough movement to slide off the transmission.

    Apparrantly the blue locktite I used last time I had it apart wasn't good enough... Found that the 4 screws holding the diff together had all backed out and when the concrete 20M "oil" warms up, it oozes out. The inside of the trans case was a mess of grease and silicone oil/goo. Cleaned it all up, took the diff apart and it had about 1/3 of what it should have left in it. This time I packed it full of the 20M silicone puddy, then gently heated the alloy diff case with a torch, then gently worked the more pliable goo down into the gears more and was able to fill it better than before. Also cleaned all the screws, screw holes and then used orange loctite on them. Hopefully this improves the lack of center diff control dumping all the power to the front. While reinstalling, I increased the pinion again from the 18T I put on when putting in the 2050kv to a 19T. The speed check put it right at 50mph with the 18T, but with all the power going to the front, not sure how accurate that was.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 12-11-2019 at 04:52 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

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