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  1. #1
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    ERevo - Brushless edition (v1.0) driveshafts bending

    Good morning everyone,

    I recently bought myself a 2nd hand ERevo BE (the v1.0, with Castle 1:8 scale esc+motor).. After not being in the RC world for 5+ years -- Last time I owned an RC Car, HPI Savage Octane was still being hyped over release.. Hopefully some of you who've been around for a while can understand that time frame haha.

    I'm having a hard time preventing driveshafts from bending, specifically the rear shafts. I'm running on 3S power on the Castle system, which is a bit powerful as you all know.

    I've tried using the stock Traxxas plastic ones, but they keep snapping at the yolk joint on the front two... I am able to visually see the egg shape forming on the shafts after just 1 battery drain run.. They'd then break 5-10mins into 2nd battery run. So, I upgraded to the Traxxas CVD shafts. They took a nice beating, but now I've bent two or three sets overall, and I'm tired of unbending or buying new sets.

    Is there any support for a splined metal shaft? Something that has give like the plastic ones do for abrupt sideways impact (cartwheels) but is also strong enough to withstand the 3s torque and not just snap the joint?

    I'm really trying to avoid the upgrading the diffs again, I just did a metal case and new gears in them.

    Also- Im 99% sure my A-Arms are Traxxas a-arms.


    So, in short, I'm looking for recommendations to buy metal splined driveshafts for all four corners. As well as recommendations to avoid bending in the future. I've searched the forums a bit, and most of the posts I saw had dead links, so figure I'd start scratch. Forgive me mods, if I'm making a post that's been answered hundreds of times.
    Last edited by nfx; 01-04-2021 at 08:32 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Are you running one 3s battery or two 3s batteries for 6s total? There's a big difference in power. If your only running 3s total and your breaking axles there's something else going on.

    There's two ideas that come to mind. The Traxxas Summit axles or MIP axles. I haven't tried the MIP's. But on my Traxxas Summit running 5s and turning RC4WD Mudslingers they have held up to the power.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I only ever ran 4S (2x2S) on my v1 and even then, I'd carry a spare couple of sliders in my pit bag. At least once a year I'd have to replace them all due to the yokes stretching over time, even with the punch dialed way down.

    I got a v2 roller so I could run 6S (2x3S) in it. The v1 diffs/axles weren't known to hold up that well to 6S power.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I only ever ran 4S (2x2S) on my v1 and even then, I'd carry a spare couple of sliders in my pit bag. At least once a year I'd have to replace them all due to the yokes stretching over time, even with the punch dialed way down.

    I got a v2 roller so I could run 6S (2x3S) in it. The v1 diffs/axles weren't known to hold up that well to 6S power.
    2x 3s batteries in series- so 6s in total.
    So far, I've actually not had any issues with the diffs or any drive components... I bought the car and the previous owner had the metal cases on hand and included with the deal... Upgraded during a rainy week.

    I'll take a look at summit axle conversion.

    My punch is set to ~50, my braking and reverse are also set to ~50. I don't think I should be snapping the plastic ones everytime I take it out, which is why I went to metal shafts - but I keep bending them on cartwheels. I get a ton of runs out of them, but a few hard cartwheels and it's down for the count until I get a new set of axles.

  5. #5
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Look into the mip axles spendy. But the hardened steel may work better you. I've yet to put mine into my 2wd rustler..

    Other option is stop cartwheeling.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Look into the mip axles spendy. But the hardened steel may work better you. I've yet to put mine into my 2wd rustler..

    Other option is stop cartwheeling.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Haha, the option to stop cartwheeling isn't an option... Not in my area, nice open flat areas, perfect for speed runs and sending it to do cartwheels!

    I can't quite find MIP for the v1 erevo, though they're very available for the v2.

  7. #7
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nfx View Post
    I can't quite find MIP for the v1 erevo, though they're very available for the v2.
    You might be mixed up. MIP doesn't make axles for the Erevo 2.0. They already have metal axles from the factory. MIP only have axles for the V1.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    You might be mixed up. MIP doesn't make axles for the Erevo 2.0. They already have metal axles from the factory. MIP only have axles for the V1.
    The only thing I've found in quick searches is "MIP11101" which has been discontinued for the ERBE from MiP... I'll keep looking on their site to see if they have updated p# or maybe a secondary wholesaler has their stuff.

    EDIT: Found a substitute p#, but not available from MiP direct.. Will check other vendors!
    If anyones looking, the p# that replaced MIP11101 is MIP18130, but is stated to only be rated for 4s power.
    Last edited by nfx; 01-05-2021 at 07:32 AM.

  9. #9
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    Upgrading the driveshafts puts even more of the load on the already weak diffs. Even with the stock drive shafts on 6s you'll blow a diff every once in a while. By upgrading the drive shafts you'll just move the failure point from the easy to get to and relatively cheap yokes/driveshafts, to the weak and more expensive diffs.

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