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  1. #1
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    Finally! A roll cage for the e-revo

    I was just on rc solutions web site and saw that they have a roll cage available for the e revo. It's $119, but I had to order it because I'm tired of my bodies crushing when I land on my lid. Once I get it I'll post pics.

  2. #2
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    Is this the roll cage?

    I think vxlsquared, on this forum, uses the hard body'z cage, which are a little more than half the price at $65 at RC Planet.com (picture shown is for the 2.5, the 3.3 is not shown on their site, but has the same structure).

    Any other e-revo's using a roll cage?

  3. #3
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    haha Hoov gf lol. even though that dont quite look like a really good one, its them flat pieces not the tubed ones. i like the tubed roll cages better.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  4. #4
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    The tubed cages look better, but I doubt they are more durable.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, I got the notification from RC-S - but from the pics it looks like it would interfere with both the two-speed servo and with sway bars... I dropped them an email with that question, but no response yet. Please do let us know either way when you get yours...
    Time is an illusion, "9am sharp" doubly so.

  6. #6
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    Update - got a message back from RC-Solutions - they have tested it successfully with the two speed servo in place, but were not yet sure about the sway bars, and would advise...
    Time is an illusion, "9am sharp" doubly so.

  7. #7
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    Update 2 - Scott from RC-Solutions just confirmed that their cages will definitely work with either style of swaybar (Tekno or Traxxas).
    Result :-)
    Time is an illusion, "9am sharp" doubly so.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by yzf128r
    I was just on rc solutions web site and saw that they have a roll cage available for the e revo. It's $119, but I had to order it because I'm tired of my bodies crushing when I land on my lid. Once I get it I'll post pics.
    But why do you need a cage in the first place? I can see the stock bodies getting crushed because TRX only uses .20 or .30 thickness on their bodies, but a ProLine or similar uses .60. I have used those and they never crush. Plus, a cage is just adding more weight to an already heavy truck. Don't get me wrong, they look super cool, but I'll take a $30 body over a $120 cage any day. Post some pics though when you get it. Thanks!
    Eat my road grit, liver lips! -Clark W. Griswold

  9. #9
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    I've been contemplating a cage for my E...mainly to protect the motors for when it flips
    E-Revo, Thunder Tiger Mirage V-Spec

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 31794ty's Avatar
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    ^^^ If you got a wing you should be ok.
    Stampede VXL Mini-T Nitro Stampede RC10T RC10B4 FT

  11. #11
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    here's some pics of my rc solutions cage.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    looks nice! did you paint it black or does it come like that?
    be nice.

  13. #13
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    It came that color. You can choose black, blue, or silver.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    cool!

    I like that better than mine;

    be nice.

  15. #15
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    you like it so far? hows it holdin up

    edit: question was for yzf
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  16. #16
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    Very nice yzf - and black is a good choice there I reckon (shame the cross bars aren't black as well, though). Does the body go over the top easily? Or do you end up running it without the shell?
    Time is an illusion, "9am sharp" doubly so.

  17. #17
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    I have to say that the cage is a great investment. The body fits over the top with absolulty not problem. Actually the reason I bought it is because I got tired of by bodies cracking every time I have a hard landing on the lid. I was breaking one about once a week. Since I installed the cage I am running the same body. The way it mounts seem to help stiffin up the chassis too. It's just a great product. And not to mention it is extremly light!

    [IMG][/IMG]


  18. #18
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    [QUOTE=HoovHartid]cool!

    I like that better than mine;

    QUOTE]

    what esc is that? that thing looks beastly

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Its the Lt-10s
    be nice.

  20. #20
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    +1 on the RC Solutions roll cage. I just installed on my bad bay and it is awesome!

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have an RC solutions cage on my ax10 and it is great. Half the weight I thought it would be!

  22. #22
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    nice ride YZF128r.... I am in Maple Valley, just down the street from you. Where do you take your REVO to drive?
    3905 GorillaMaxx 1515 1Y, Mambo Monster

  23. #23
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    you do realize this thread was made 11-8-2008 right? and the last time he posted was 2-22-09. maybe drop him a private message.
    E-revo for sale. PM me for more info.

  24. #24
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    Thanks for your wonderful input!
    3905 GorillaMaxx 1515 1Y, Mambo Monster

  25. #25
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    I thought about getting a cage for my ERBE, only because the body can take quite a bit of damage if bashing. But then again, getting a .60 Lexan body would probl do just as good. Esp for the money.

    But w/ the RC Solutions cage.... Does it fit under Truggy type bodies only? You couldn't run a 69 Charger body or a Pro Line Baja with something like that right? Of course, why would you want to I guess...

    j
    ERBE, E-Slayvo Pro, Ext Stampy, 2xMERV's.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chachi_RC
    But why do you need a cage in the first place? I can see the stock bodies getting crushed because TRX only uses .20 or .30 thickness on their bodies, but a ProLine or similar uses .60. I have used those and they never crush. Plus, a cage is just adding more weight to an already heavy truck. Don't get me wrong, they look super cool, but I'll take a $30 body over a $120 cage any day. Post some pics though when you get it. Thanks!
    I think the same way you do, Chachi.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpoprock
    I thought about getting a cage for my ERBE, only because the body can take quite a bit of damage if bashing. But then again, getting a .60 Lexan body would probl do just as good. Esp for the money.

    But w/ the RC Solutions cage.... Does it fit under Truggy type bodies only? You couldn't run a 69 Charger body or a Pro Line Baja with something like that right? Of course, why would you want to I guess...

    j

    Do .60 lexan bodies really outlast the stock body?

    I am considering a roll cage as well. Are there any new offerings for the E-Revo?
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  28. #28
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    Yes they do, they are very strong compared to a stock body. I hate roll cages with a passion, they don't do anything other than transfer impacts to other parts of the truck and look ugly.

  29. #29
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    .060 Lexan is hands down the way to go, ALWAYS. You can't even believe how much thicker and tougher it is. No matter what the veh, try to go .060 or .040 at minimum.

    RCSolutions makes the best roll cage, but they are expensive. But if yer running a $300 motor and a $150 ESC, it's just protecting yer investment if you ask me. That being said, I don't have one...yet. HA!

    J
    ERBE, E-Slayvo Pro, Ext Stampy, 2xMERV's.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    A good body and wing make the perfect roll-cage!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  31. #31
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    what brand are the .60 bodies? .40 is Proline, right?
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  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    .60 is over a half inch thick, you mean 0.060"!

    All Pro-Line MT and Truggy bodies are 0.060".
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    .60 is over a half inch thick, you mean 0.060"!

    All Pro-Line MT and Truggy bodies are 0.060".
    My fault, right, .060"...
    So a stock Traxxas body should be .040"?
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  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    They are like 0.025" to 0.030" or so, very thin.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  35. #35
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    Ufffff I see.

    I took a different approach because I got lazy and did not want to paint my truck and get all crazy with the masking tape, etc...

    Click the images for more details:





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  36. #36
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    DJBIS... Cool idea man. I am a little confused on some things, unless it's deeper back in the thread.

    So... did you take a brand new painted body, then hack up a "clear" body, or another painted body just like the top body? And you mentioned that the glue eats thru the paint right? But you didn't say whether or not you kept using that glue, or switched to Shoo Goo? If it eats thru the paint how can you fix it by repainting it? Are you just applying a clear underbody, then painting it to match after the glue dries?

    Your pictures are cool though, and helpful. But it would be much easier to understand if it were laid out as "step 1, step 2," etc..

    Also, it's amazing to me how many guys are running giant tires with their ERBE's. I have a wicked ERBE, and if I put my 7" Moabs on it, temps go up quite a bit. I'm geared 65/18. If I run MT Badlands with that gearing, temps are great. So, if I want to run the Moab's, I'm going to have to gear down to about 65/14 I think.

    I'm running 6s though, and with a Neu 1515 2.5d can. So, I have loads of power. But it's not wise to push that system to it's extreme max, as I learned the hard way =). But aside from the temps, I felt that the truck handles SO much better without those big tires on it. Not to mention the amount of weight it saves. The 7" moabs compared to the Badlands weigh 1.7lbs more! I couldn't believe it! And that's with Commando rims (Plastic).

    I like 23mm hexes, so options are limited rim wise. But you can't beat 23mm really, esp on a high powered system. No chance of stripping a hex with those babies!

    J
    Last edited by jpoprock; 08-18-2009 at 12:20 PM.
    ERBE, E-Slayvo Pro, Ext Stampy, 2xMERV's.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by yzf128r
    I have to say that the cage is a great investment. The body fits over the top with absolulty not problem. Actually the reason I bought it is because I got tired of by bodies cracking every time I have a hard landing on the lid. I was breaking one about once a week. Since I installed the cage I am running the same body. The way it mounts seem to help stiffin up the chassis too. It's just a great product. And not to mention it is extremly light!

    [IMG][/IMG]

    what wheels/tires are these?
    It's ReV:-O, back from the grave...

  38. #38
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    JConcepts Rulux(halfups and offset maybe) + Proline Badlands MT

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=478086

  39. #39
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    ah cool, i bought some 40 series wheels and bowties, and i swear my speed has decreased because of the extra width. I'm wondering now if i should have bought thinner wheels like the ones above for increased speed, but they give the impression that they balloon alot
    It's ReV:-O, back from the grave...

  40. #40
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by jpoprock
    DJBIS... Cool idea man. I am a little confused on some things, unless it's deeper back in the thread.

    So... did you take a brand new painted body, then hack up a "clear" body, or another painted body just like the top body? And you mentioned that the glue eats thru the paint right? But you didn't say whether or not you kept using that glue, or switched to Shoo Goo? If it eats thru the paint how can you fix it by repainting it? Are you just applying a clear underbody, then painting it to match after the glue dries?

    Your pictures are cool though, and helpful. But it would be much easier to understand if it were laid out as "step 1, step 2," etc..
    J
    I bought a brand new body (pre-painted) and split my old pre-painted body which was nearing the end of its life so that I could re-enforce the new body.

    By the time I realized that the glue (Plastidip really) was eating through the paint and even warping the lexan a bit it was too late. I had already applied it everywhere and glued the re-enforcing panels to the new body.

    You cannot fix this, once its done its done.

    An optional approach to this method would be to use shoe goo (maybe even applying it to the edges of the re-enforcing panels inside the new body?

    I am glad to report that the method I used has worked out very well in keeping the truck together, specially the body mount points. Though yesterday I did crack the tail end of the body on a huge jump that I did not land. The crack went right through one of the areas that lacks re-enforcement. Shoe Goo might do the trick in welding the two parts together, I hope.

    Would I do this again? Probably not.
    I would probably just get a thicker lexan body that might be a bit more durable.

    Which by the way, can anybody recommend bodies for the E-Revo? I think I am over this slim-line/slick looking bodies for a bashing truck like mine. That wing is not meant for taking the abuse its taking with the jumps, etc. I need to go back to a truck body or some other kind of off-road vehicle.

    Would the Summit body hold up well?
    Faster Higher Longer Harder
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