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  1. #1
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    Total Revo n00b questions

    First of all, I have to say I am a total Revo (and Electric RC in general) n00b, and I have (had?) pretty limited Nitro experience, so y'all will just have to bear with me. If I say something stupid, just say "Hey... That was stupid!"

    LOL

    So, I picked up a brand-spankin' new E Revo, 2 pairs of 3800 mAh batteries and a charger. She's up and running and is a ton of fun, but in my usual fashion, I am already (I just got it Tuesday!) looking for upgrades, accessories and such.

    What I need to know from you guys is what all is available for the E Rev as far as suspension upgrades and accessories, as well as what parts (if any) are cross-compatible from the other Revo models. What I'm mainly looking for, to give you an idea of what I'm getting at, is things like Anodized bumpers, body mounts, suspension parts, shocks, wing mounts... See where I'm going?

    I'd also like to know what (if any) Bodies are E Revo-able. I have a tendency to have to customize everything, and my RC's have never been any different.

    Thanks in advance. Looking forward to getting to know y'all!

  2. #2
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    Its a pretty solid truck out of the box, and with the brushed motors, it really doesn't go fast enough to break much of anything. However, RPM suspension arms are always a good upgrade. You might want to put some stiffer springs on the shocks, but the shocks themselves are solid. Proline has different bodies for it too. You can find all of this stuff at towerhobbies.com. They have a great selection and always have some kind of a deal going.
    Jato 3.3 RPM arms all the way around, Hitec 645 steering servo, road hawg tires on RPM rims, chassis upgrade soon to come, too many parts replaced to mention. Got my eye on a Revo 3.3, hope to get one before too much longer.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by wesgreen
    Its a pretty solid truck out of the box, and with the brushed motors, it really doesn't go fast enough to break much of anything. However, RPM suspension arms are always a good upgrade. You might want to put some stiffer springs on the shocks, but the shocks themselves are solid. Proline has different bodies for it too. You can find all of this stuff at towerhobbies.com. They have a great selection and always have some kind of a deal going.
    Thanks for the info. I also plan to (sooner rather than later) upgrade to the much-ballyhooed "MMM" Brushless setup, so I hope to change that "not fast enough" problem in the near future. I have been browsing the threads about going brushless since I found the site!

    RPM suspension: Duly Noted.
    ProLine bodies: Also noted.

    What do I need to know as far as "will it fit". I see LOTS of "Revo" parts and accessories, but I don't know what all will and won't carry over to the E Revo. Or are the chassis/suspensions basically the same on both?

    Thanks again for the info. I'm off to search for RPM suspension and ProLine bodies!

  4. #4
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    The shocks , a arms , body mounts , bumpers , knuckles , pushrods , turnbuckles , and steering system are all interchangeable with the nitro version.

    Stay away from the alloy parts , all they do is add weight and transfer impact energy into weaker parts .

    Any body that fits the 3.3 REVO will also fit the E REVO , except for the precut/pre drilled Traxxas body's as the body mount holes will not line up .

  5. #5
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    The e revo and nitro revo have different chassis and transmission, but everything else is the same (body post, suspension, bumpers, etc...)
    Jato 3.3 RPM arms all the way around, Hitec 645 steering servo, road hawg tires on RPM rims, chassis upgrade soon to come, too many parts replaced to mention. Got my eye on a Revo 3.3, hope to get one before too much longer.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.A.T.O.3.3
    The shocks , a arms , body mounts , bumpers , knuckles , pushrods , turnbuckles , and steering system are all interchangeable with the nitro version.

    Stay away from the alloy parts , all they do is add weight and transfer impact energy into weaker parts .

    Any body that fits the 3.3 REVO will also fit the E REVO , except for the precut/pre drilled Traxxas body's as the body mount holes will not line up .
    Quote Originally Posted by wesgreen
    The e revo and nitro revo have different chassis and transmission, but everything else is the same (body post, suspension, bumpers, etc...)
    Awesome. Thanks for that info as well.

    So, stay away from alloy (aluminum I'm assuming) parts? Too bad. They look awesome, but I don't want to add to the probability of broken parts just to look good.

    Thanks again!

    What do you guys like as far as wheels and tires? I'm (obviously) still on the stock "Black Chrome" wheels and Talon (right?) tires. I LOVE the looks of the stock wheels and really hate to scratch them up, so if there's a cheap "beater" wheel that perform well, I'd be looking into getting those to preserve the awesome stockers for when I want to look good AND go fast!

  7. #7
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    There are some good aluminum upgrades, but only where it replaces steel (push rods, tie rods, rocker arm posts).

    For bashing tires, I found some good used tires cheaply on fleabay. As far as which ones to get, much has already been said.
    Here's a few:
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ighlight=tires
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ighlight=tires
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=435352

    Just search for tires or wheels in thread titles, then look for the ones in Revo forums. Don't be afraid to look way back and read for hours. The wrong tires can make all the difference.
    E-Revo MMM 2200 "The Missile"
    VXL FLM Rustler

  8. #8
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    Another thing to look at is a better radio system for when you do go to a brushless system. Brushless generally have a bit more radio interferance than brushed motors, so a 2.4gHz radio is a good idea. If you ask arround on the forums, Spektrum and Futaba are probably going to be the most recommended systems. I love my Spektrum DX3.0, but what I say is to grab one of each and see if it feels right in your hand. If it doesn't fit, you will never be happy with it.

  9. #9
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    I'm in the same boat as you Taco. I'm running a stock E-Revo. However, I'm a noob to the whole RC game. Like you, I can never leave anything stock. I purchased my E-Revo form a LHS (not really local, but worth the drive) and have been very happy with it so far. I made the same mistake all noob's make by purchasing Nimh, instead of Lipo.

    Now that I'm much wiser, I'm making the shift to Lipo now. Just purchased Hyperion EOS 0606i and I'll be picking up the SPC Lipos. There's a lot of great information on this, as well as other forums.

    I also made a few calls to Traxxas and spoke with their reps. They are all very knowledgeable and exceptionally helpful. After having them give me explanations of the available accessories for E-Revo, I've gone ahead and ordered the following items. They are due in any day now!

    1 x Differential kit, center
    1 x Sway bar kit, Revo (front and rear)
    2 x Gear, 17-T pinion
    2 x Titan motors (forward and reverse)

    I purchased back up motors, so I have little to no down time. Once I burn through the stock motors and back-ups, then I'll convert to BL. I'm thinking of installing the 17-T gear pinions to my back up motors, and then making run comparisons. I'd like to know if their are benefits? I'll post results, if they are noticeable.

    As mentioned above, I'm seriously considering the the Futuba radio. Just need to slow down. I'm barely a week into this hobby.

    Thanks to all those who contribute to the forums.
    E-REVO MMM Combo w/Futaba 3PM

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregarious76
    There are some good aluminum upgrades, but only where it replaces steel (push rods, tie rods, rocker arm posts).

    For bashing tires, I found some good used tires cheaply on fleabay. As far as which ones to get, much has already been said.
    Here's a few:
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ighlight=tires
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ighlight=tires
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=435352

    Just search for tires or wheels in thread titles, then look for the ones in Revo forums. Don't be afraid to look way back and read for hours. The wrong tires can make all the difference.
    Thanks for the info and links. I'll check those threads out and search for more when I have a little time to really read up and absorb the knowledge. I have seen already, there is a WEALTH of knowledge to be found here. You just need time to sort through it all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cainam
    Another thing to look at is a better radio system for when you do go to a brushless system. Brushless generally have a bit more radio interferance than brushed motors, so a 2.4gHz radio is a good idea. If you ask arround on the forums, Spektrum and Futaba are probably going to be the most recommended systems. I love my Spektrum DX3.0, but what I say is to grab one of each and see if it feels right in your hand. If it doesn't fit, you will never be happy with it.
    I'll definitely look into an upgraded radio. I noticed the one that came with it felt somewhat light weight and borderline "cheap" though it does seem to work perfectly thusfar. I'll look into both, but I do have a good friend who flies RC Heli's who's hooked up pretty well with Futaba, so I may see if he can't get me a "Boy Dog" setup on the cheap. If not, I'll try both out and see what feels good. Thanks to you too for the pointers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Madmike007
    I'm in the same boat as you Taco. I'm running a stock E-Revo. However, I'm a noob to the whole RC game. Like you, I can never leave anything stock. I purchased my E-Revo form a LHS (not really local, but worth the drive) and have been very happy with it so far. I made the same mistake all noob's make by purchasing Nimh, instead of Lipo.

    Now that I'm much wiser, I'm making the shift to Lipo now. Just purchased Hyperion EOS 0606i and I'll be picking up the SPC Lipos. There's a lot of great information on this, as well as other forums.

    I also made a few calls to Traxxas and spoke with their reps. They are all very knowledgeable and exceptionally helpful. After having them give me explanations of the available accessories for E-Revo, I've gone ahead and ordered the following items. They are due in any day now!

    1 x Differential kit, center
    1 x Sway bar kit, Revo (front and rear)
    2 x Gear, 17-T pinion
    2 x Titan motors (forward and reverse)

    I purchased back up motors, so I have little to no down time. Once I burn through the stock motors and back-ups, then I'll convert to BL. I'm thinking of installing the 17-T gear pinions to my back up motors, and then making run comparisons. I'd like to know if their are benefits? I'll post results, if they are noticeable.

    As mentioned above, I'm seriously considering the the Futuba radio. Just need to slow down. I'm barely a week into this hobby.

    Thanks to all those who contribute to the forums.
    Glad to know I'm not the only "piddler" as I have come to refer to my inability to leave things alone.

    A couple of things for you, Mike. Other than the possibility of them "blowing up", what are the major differences one might expect from LiPo batteries over the NiMh, specifically in run time, power, charge times and overall life expectancy. I know they're more expensive, but are they "worth it" in your opinion?

    Regarding your ordering spare Titans, should that scare me as much as it does. You saying "when" you burn through them (as opposed to "if") made my red flag run right up the "Uh Oh" pole! I understand that, obviously, they are not going to last a lifetime, but you seem pretty sure you're gonna run right through 2 pair relatively quickly. Is that likely? I don't really mind replacing the stockers with something more powerful, but I want to do it because I WANT to do it, not because I can't keep the stockers in good working order.

    Also, I can see upgrading the sway bars and having options for the gearing, but why replace the differential? Do they offer a better one, or are you ordering it to have a spare?

    Thanks for all your tips and info. Keep them coming guys!

  11. #11
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    Ahhh. Don't be scared about the Titan motors. In fact, I've read nothing but good things. So, I do not expect to tear through them anytime soon. I'm a bit obsessive with parts and I have no patience to wait for deliveries (i.e., waiting on my stuff today). I have extra parts for my real car! And I'm not talking about spark plugs either. I have an extra super charger, cylinder head, brakes, wheels, tires, etc.. So, as you can see I take my sports seriously. Back on topic... The motors were purchased from another user on this forum. The motors are new and it was a good deal! So, now that I have back up motors, I'm not too concerned about pushing the limits.

    Regarding Lipos, I had a long conversation with Tom @ SPC and he was extremely knowledgeable and helpful. After readin post on the forums about the good and bad, my head was spinning from the contradictions. So, I figured why not call companies directly? Tom answered in great length a lot of questions I had concerning Lipo batteries. I got an Engineering 101 crash course, but in plain english. Armed with the knowledge he gave me, I can go out and buy any battery from any company. But, not all companies will take the time to provide customer service and knowledge like SPC.

    With that said, yes I believe it is worth going Lipo. I'll be taking all the necessary precautions (metal ammo box), because you can never be too safe. Regardless if it's Nimh or Lipo.

    The differential kit is an upgrade. The center differential provides power to all tires at all times. Think Porsche!
    E-REVO MMM Combo w/Futaba 3PM

  12. #12
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    Good to hear the extra Titan's are just precautionary. Whew!

    I also keep spare heads, rear gears, cam, valve springs, clutches and other various "often broken" parts for my Daily Driver "real" car.

    I'll have to look into that differential upgrade. Gotta love those Porsches. Especially as they fade into the rear view.

    I'll eventually jump into LiPo's, but not until I go brushless. It looks like I'm going to be ordering up the MMM setup soon, so maybe I'll be happy with it (temporarily, no doubt) once I get that hooked up!

    Take care, talk to y'all tomorrow!
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  13. #13
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    Okay, so I understand you guys with extensive knowledge have to answer these questions repeatedly, but I am going to ask anyway. I apologize in advance for causing you guys to smack yourselves on the forehead and mumble "Not Again... Freakin' Noobs!"

    My ER is completely showroom stock. I am running a pair of 3600 mAh batteries. The speed is... Meh. The run time is... Blech. I got 4 batteries and it eats them a pair at a time, 10 minutes tops. This is unacceptable.

    I know to upgrade to a brushless setup, I need a 2.4 GHz FM transmitter, an ESC and Motor combo, LiPo batteries and a good LiPo charger.

    So... My questions are these: What ELSE do I need, parts-wise. I need as detailed an answer as possible. Wires, plugs, whatever else I will need. Teach me!

    Regarding LiPo batteries, teach me the "lingo". What does 4S mean, for example? How are they different, physically and behaviorally from my NiMh's? What kind of speed/run times can I expect from various LiPo combinations? Walk me through a LiPo use cycle, from New-In-Box through their first run in the ER and back to fully charged and balanced. Speaking of, what does balanced mean, and hw do I do it?

    Educate me on installing the ESC and new motor, including removal of the stock Titans. Remember, though, I need thorough answers, as I am TOTALLY new to nearly all of this.

    I believe that is all for now. PLEASE don't toss me generic info. I need specific, thorough info with detailed, step-by-step instructions. Feel free to link me to any pertinent related info if you'd rather do that than type it, that's fine. I just want to be prepared for anything that will come up during the upgrade process.

    Thanks again guys. You've been awesome so far, don't give up on me now!!!
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  14. #14
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    I am relatively new to electric aswell, I've had my E-Revo for about a month and a half. I started with 3800 nimh batteries, then went to the 5000 before coming to this board. All said and done I wish I had just gotten lipo's and a low voltage cut off till I upgraded to my brushless. I swapped out the am radio for a FM to start with, then a 2.4ghz thing I sitting around. I also installed the springs for the long travel kit and left the progressive suspension in. It was better than the softies that come on it.

    As she stands now!

    MMM brushless combo -got a deal

    spectrum dx3r radio - got that today! found one cheap in a local hobby shop

    wheels and tires. I went with proline wheels and bowtie tires. Best thing I've done to the trucks driveability yet in my opinion. The tires dont balloon with my brushless and the traction compaired to that stock crap, well isnt compairable.

    I am still running my 5000 nimh batteries but I have 6s lipos on the way thanks to research done on this forum. Check out *****'s batteries, these guys rave about them and the price is just right for a basher in my opinion.

    All of the above is my 2 cents, take it for what its worth, but I am having a blast and there's nothing ahead but mayhem and destruction as far as I'm concerned.

    -Mc

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    taco,

    have you read through the e-revo FAQ?

    there is a great write up in there about lipos. Its post #71 I think.

    but give it a read. Other than that...


    When it comes to the ERBE (E-Revo Brushless Edition) the BEST battery solution is LIPO batteries. They are better than all others with the exception of maybe A123 cells (but those dont fit...at least not in the voltage and capacity we would want, so your better off using lipo)

    Is LIPO dangerous? Sure...anything can be dangerous ....if you dont know what you are doing. But if you learn about their limitations and hazards (more importantly how to avoid them) they are safe and you will be just fine.

    What do I need to know? Well, like any battery, lipos prefer to be stored at normal temperatures. Whats normal? Well, to keep it easy, don't store them anywhere you wouldnt be comfortable storing yourself. Your lipos, like you, don't like being too hot or too cold. Would you enjoy sitting in your car if it was 100F outside?.....neither would your lipos. They dont enjoy being stabbed or punctured...so if you wreck and your lipos get punctured, they are done...any voltage going in or out of them at this point can be volatile and possibly cause a flame-out, so stand back. Other then that the only thing you need to remember is to keep them at their optimal voltage.

    Voltage:
    Lipos are designed to function best between 3 and 4.2 volts per cell. At 4.2 volts the cells are at their max, at 3 volts they are at their minimum. Discharging Lipos lower than 3 volts per cell will begin to shorten their lifespan, damage them, and if your not careful, ruin them. It is for this reason that your Electronic Speed Control (ESC) has a Low Voltage Cutoff (see post #72).

    When lipos have a draw on them (or they are being used) the voltage drops to about 3.7 volts. It will remain at about that voltage throughout most of the run until it quickly drops off towards the end of its charge. It is important to know this, because many companies use this number when selling their batteries.

    The ERBE is capable if handling upto 25 volts. To get to this voltage, lipo cells are wired in a series. When you wire cells in a series, you are stacking the voltage. Lipos come pre wired in packs, and in turn, you can connect whole packs even further into a series harness and stack their voltrage as well. This comes in handy for vehicles like the e-revo that use two compartments to hold the batteries. So lets break it down. If you buy battery packs that are advertised as 7.4 Volts, then you now know you are dealing with a pack that has two lipo cells wired internally in a series. They derived this number by taking the working or nominal voltage (the voltage of a cell during use) of each cell (3.7 volts) and Stacking it (series) to make 7.4 volts (3.7 X 2). If you then put one of these packs in each compartment of the ERBE, you can connect them in a series to stack your voltage further to 14.8 volts. You now have two packs in your truck, one on each side. Each pack having 2 cells, you now have a total of 4 lipo cells, each with 3.7 volts stacked for a total of 14.8 volts. This is commonly refered to a 4s set-up. ....Thats great, but how do we get to 25 volts? Well, you have the option to buy packs that have 3 cells wired in a series. These packs are adverised as having 11.1 volts (3.7 X 3). They are known as 3s packs because they consist of having 3 lipo cells stacked in a series. If you buy two of these packs, put one on each side of your truck and connect them in a series you will now have a total of 6 cells stacked for 22.2 volts. This is commonly refered to as a 6s system. .....Again where do we get 25 volts? Well, you get 25 volts from batteries that are resting. Remember, lipo cells fully charged hold 4.2 volts per cell. 4.2 X 6 = 25.2 volts. Technically, you only have 25 volts when your truck isnt moving.
    Great, so we see 4s and 6s set-ups, but how do we get 5s? Well, simple really, you connect a 2s pack and a 3s pack in a series for 5s.

    Capacity:
    Ok, so you now know how to get 4s, 5s, and 6s, but what about mAh?
    mAh is the capacity of a lipo cell (measured in milli-amp hours, or Mah). In general, the greater the mAh, the longer your runtime will be. Lipo cells in general are available upto about 5000mah in capacity. Beyond this, pairs of cells are used in parallel to increase the Mah, and therefore the runtime. Parallel? Yup.... get comfortable..... We have been talking about how cells get stacked in a series to double their voltage....well, when they are wired parallel they double their capacity (mAh). Why do I need to know this? Well, because it gives you more options. Finding the right batteries for you application can sometimes require you to get creative. The more you know, the more creative you can get. You know that Connecting 2 2s packs in a series will give you 4s, but If you find some packs that are built 4s already, you can wire two of them Parallel to get longer runtime out of them.

    What about the C rating?
    The C rating is also known as the discharge rating. This is a measure of how much current ( in amps) the battery can output before it will overheat and become damaged. Most lipos have the C rating listed in their specs, but this doesn’t actually tell you how many amps the lipo can ouput, there is a very simple sum however:

    Mah capacity x C rating / 1000 = output potential.

    For example, a 10C 5000mah pack can output 50amps, and a 20C 4000mah pack can produce 80amps. This however is assuming that the C rating on the pack is accurate. If you are in doubt, there is fool-proof way of determining the C rating, but it requires additional equipment. Using an Eagletree data logger or similar, you can record the voltage level of a lipo in relation to the amount of current that is being drawn from it. If the voltage level remains at about 3.0v or higher per cell at the specified C rate in amps, then it is accurate. If not, then it is over-rated. An example of this would be a 20C 5000mah pack outputting 100amps and staying at about 3.2v per cell. The graphs can sometimes be hard to interpret, but if you have the current and voltage graphs on the same chart, you can easily locate the voltage at any given current output.




    ....there ya go fella
    be nice.

  16. #16
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    I just bought a E-Revo and installed the MMM 2200 and runnin' 4600 ProMatch batteries and does me just fine 'till I switch to lipo.
    My E-Revo is pretty much stock besides the Spektrum receiver just installed and love it.
    My first upgrade was Masher tires from Pro-Line, you can tell a HUGE difference from the Talons and the Mashers.
    The Talons do look cool and all but their traction is poor after about 10 runs.
    We ride together..We die together..Bad Boys 4Life

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Taco, hello fellow Alabamian!

    You know I have to ask you this...Alabama or Auburn?

    Anyway, listen to HoovHartid, he really know what he's talking about...as do the guys listed in his signature, and a few others on the board.

    Here's a quick drawing I made to help you understand wiring cells in Series & Parallel...
    Last edited by Revoš; 02-21-2009 at 03:24 AM.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  18. #18
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    WOW!

    Hoov (that's a great name, by the way!) Thanks a million! That is a TON of GREAT info man, AND, you made it easy to understand. I actually feel like I am ready to tackle LiPo's now. After reading the FAQ first, of course.

    evo, thanks for the tips. I definitely want to hook up some "get dirty" wheels and tires (gotta preserve those sweet looking stockers for showing off the looks, not crashing and bashing).

    Revo1, glad to meet you man. Where you at in Sweet Home Alabama? I'm in Madison, just outside Huntsville. I hope this doesn't cause you to "cut me off" from your knowledge, but I am a DIE HARD Bama fan! Roll Tide Roll!!! Thanks to you too for that diagram, visual aids are always welcome!

    Thanks again guys! If I'm following everything I'm reading, I think I have a plan laid out for my mods. Tell me what y'all think, feel free to add or change whatever you think is wrong, or could be done differently:

    1) Bash-worthy tires
    2) Radio & Receiver upgrade (Spektrum, yes?)
    3)LiPo Batteries and all supporting equipment
    4) MMM Motor & ESC setup

    Sound good fellas?

    Now, the last question I have is about the actual physical installation. I can read and follow any wiring diagram, that is no problem. I just need to know what to expect as far as wire gauges and connectors, etc. Is everything included or will I need to do some from-scratch wiring?

    Thanks again guys, you have been MOST helpful! I'll be brushless and bashing in NO time!
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Taco, I am also a die-hard Alabama fan, so you will not be cut off at all...heh!

    Anyway...I am in Gadsden, about 75 miles South of Huntsville, and 55 North of Birmingham...basically, I live about an hour and a half away from you.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  20. #20
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    Oh dude, I am familiar with Gadsden. I used to come over there to the Drag Strip @ Steele a couple of times a year in my Trans Am. I haven't been in a while though, but I still remember the way! I need to plan a trip, I've done a few upgrades since I last ran on a 1/4 mile track.
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taco
    WOW!

    Hoov (that's a great name, by the way!) Thanks a million! , I think I have a plan laid out for my mods.

    1) Bash-worthy tires
    2) Radio & Receiver upgrade (Spektrum, yes?)
    3)LiPo Batteries and all supporting equipment
    4) MMM Motor & ESC setup

    Sound good fellas?

    Now, the last question I have is about the actual physical installation. I can read and follow any wiring diagram, that is no problem. I just need to know what to expect as far as wire gauges and connectors, etc. Is everything included or will I need to do some from-scratch wiring?
    Sounds like a good plan!
    1) I like keeping the wheels as light as possible. I find that the heavier my wheels are, the hotter my electronics get. I recommend 17mm wheels as well, they are more popular than the 14mm ones. Get the maximzer 17mm adapters. they are cheap and they work great. For good light rims I recommend the Proline LPR ones. They come in black, white(dyeable) or yellow. I also recommend getting the 1/2" offset ones for extra stability.

    Here is my set-up with badland MT tires stretched on.


    2)any 2.4 system will be good. Most choose futaba, or spektrum. I have a spektrum dx3.0. I have never used the 3rd channel . but I have it because I have 4 cars. The dx2.0 will work just as well in the e-revo and it can be had for For $139 HERE.(add it to the cart for the lower price)
    tho, it only has two model memory, so if you expand your fleet beware.

    3) I recommend *********. THESE batteries. THIS charger and you will need a powersupply. As for supporting equipment, you may want to get some connectors here or here. As well as some wire here and here. and some shrink wrap here and here.
    This will allow you toget all of your connections set-up how you need should you decide to change to a parallel set-up or whatnot. Also, at such a cheap price, its not a bad way to practice your soldering skills. I always buy extra crap in case I mess up.

    Also, if you plan to charge two batteries at once with that charger, you can get some 22g wire at ********* as well and set-up a balance wiring harness.
    be nice.

  22. #22
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    Dude, you are THE MAN!

    Those wheels and tires look awesome! I like the black-on-black look.

    When I get to a real computer (I'm on my Blackberry now), I'll be checking those links and hopefully, I'll be ordering some wheels, tires, a radio and possibly some batteries as soon as tomorrow. I'll have to wait a bit on the actual brushless combo, but hopefully, I'll get it all within the next couple of weeks.

    Thanks again for the great info! I hope to put it all to use soon!

    One last question (for now): with a brushless combo and some good LiPos, how will I fare in a race against some other comparable Nitro trucks? (Revo's, T-Maxx, Savages, etc) I don't need exact predictions, just a "you'll hold your own" or "you'll obliterate a (insert truck here)". By race, I am referring to a drag race type, or down-and-back maybe.

    Thanks again, and thanks in advance!
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  23. #23
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    One last question (for now): with a brushless combo and some good LiPos, how will I fare in a race against some other comparable Nitro trucks? (Revo's, T-Maxx, Savages, etc) I don't need exact predictions, just a "you'll hold your own" or "you'll obliterate a (insert truck here)". By race, I am referring to a drag race type, or down-and-back maybe.
    For the most part a properly set up brushless truck, meaning a good brushless system running quality battery packs, will outperform a nitro counterpart. I run what is essentially the MMM combo (except my motor is a teckno edition 1515/1y) and I have only run a 4s 5000mAH 30c setup in it. From my experience the setup outperforms any Nitro that i have ever run or seen run in terms or torque, speed and acceleration. Im not saying that there arent Nitro's out there that are as fast as a brushless setup, but they generally achieve this with taller gearing and sacrifice what little torque (compared to brushless) they already have.

    I cant wait to try my new 5s 5000mAH setup!!!
    Last edited by shizzon; 02-22-2009 at 05:47 PM.

  24. #24
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    Sweet, Taco, I go to Steele quite often as well! All of my friends run Mustangs, but I am a Chevy man myself (Corvettes and Camaros [IROC-Z's]). I recently totaled my Corvette (2005 C6 Z06), so I bought another IROC to build into a full-blown street/strip car (TT 406). I have a 100% original, 100% mint, 100% optioned, 1421 original mile 1987 IROC-Z that is my baby, so I bought another one just like it, except with 33719 miles on it, to build into a nice street/strip car. It is going to remain a fully-loaded, full-interior, 8-second "streetable" twin-turbo car!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taco

    By race, I am referring to a drag race type, or down-and-back maybe.

    Thanks again, and thanks in advance!
    if you keep your front wheels down, you can not lose.
    I use the extended arms and it helps keep the front wheels planted.
    be nice.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    Sweet, Taco, I go to Steele quite often as well! All of my friends run Mustangs, but I am a Chevy man myself (Corvettes and Camaros [IROC-Z's]). I recently totaled my Corvette (2005 C6 Z06), so I bought another IROC to build into a full-blown street/strip car (TT 406). I have a 100% original, 100% mint, 100% optioned, 1421 original mile 1987 IROC-Z that is my baby, so I bought another one just like it, except with 33719 miles on it, to build into a nice street/strip car. It is going to remain a fully-loaded, full-interior, 8-second "streetable" twin-turbo car!
    Dude, first off, sorry to hear about your Z06. Being an LS engine fan, I hate to hear that.

    Sounds like you have a great plan laid out for that TT setup man. You going with a EFI setup, or carb'd blow through?

    Your 1400 mile IROC sounds like a SWEET ride, I'd love to check it out sometime. I have a friend with an 84 (I think) Berlinetta that only has a few thousand miles on it. I wanna say it has 3000-4000 miles on it. Also fully loaded and in PERFECT shape, as I am sure yours is too.

    I have a 99 WS6 with a 382" stroker, heads/cam, full "True Dual" exhaust, 9" Rear End, Hayes Clutch and a beefed up T-56. It put down 480 to the wheels, but I haven't gotten any decent passes at the track... yet! Maybe we'll run into each other @ Steele sometime. I'd love to see that IROC and the TT car too!

    Quote Originally Posted by shizzon
    For the most part a properly set up brushless truck, meaning a good brushless system running quality battery packs, will outperform a nitro counterpart. I run what is essentially the MMM combo (except my motor is a teckno edition 1515/1y) and I have only run a 4s 5000mAH 30c setup in it. From my experience the setup outperforms any Nitro that i have ever run or seen run in terms or torque, speed and acceleration. Im not saying that there arent Nitro's out there that are as fast as a brushless setup, but they generally achieve this with taller gearing and sacrifice what little torque (compared to brushless) they already have.

    I cant wait to try my new 5s 5000mAH setup!!!
    Sounds great. I have some friends with Nitro trucks talking a little smack, but they don't know I have brushless plans for them soon, so hopefully I can make their jaws smack the ground when I show them what's up!

    Quote Originally Posted by HoovHartid
    if you keep your front wheels down, you can not lose.
    I use the extended arms and it helps keep the front wheels planted.
    Awesome. I'm sure I'll be adding those along the way as well then!

    Thanks again for all the great info. Hopefully, I have asked all the n00b questions I have. I'll probably be quiet for a while, as I'll be reading, researching and hopefully, ordering some new parts VERY soon!

    I'll keep y'all updated on progress!
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    best of luck!
    be nice.

  28. #28
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    Yea, an old man ran the light at an intersection, and I had no where to go...I was doing 60 on a major Boulevard (Meighan Blvd., you know it?). Even anti-lock brakes and huge tires (275 front, 315 rear) couldn't slow me down in time! Anyway, I may replace the car with either a new '09 ZR1, or a new '10 SS Camaro (if the release it).

    Your car sounds nice, and I hope we can get together at Steele sometime soon!

    Anyway, back on topic...
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  29. #29
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    Okay so I guess I am needing some help on a deeper level this morning guys...

    I just got done shopping around to buy all the necessary parts and accessories to upgrade my E Revo to brushless, and I'm borderline sick.

    It's going to cost me at least what a brand new ERBE would cost, not to mention the $700 I ALREADY have in getting my brushed ER up and running.

    I'm thinking seriously about selling the ER for whatever reasonable amount I can get for it and just buying the ERBE when it is available.

    What would you guys do. I don't want to wind up with $1500 (Upgrading my ER to Brushless) tied up in something I could have realistically spent ~$900 (Out of the Box ERBE with LiPos and charger).

    Methinks I just might puke. Traxxas should consider us ER guys and offer up an Upgrade Package for a reasonable price.
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  30. #30
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    Your best bet may to sell your E-Revo and buy the BL E-Revo.

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    But just think about the satisfaction you will get by building your own!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  32. #32
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    Don't get me wrong, I would LOVE that, but I am in school, trying to work as close to full-time as possible, while also paying for a house and a car while feeding a wife and 2 young children on my own. I have a LITTLE extra for hobbies, but I do have to be practical where possible. Sooooo, I guess I'll be weighing my options and hopefully, one way or the other, I'll be BL soon.
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    you're not alone;
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ight=how+spent

    $410 E-Revo
    $170 MMM
    $260 Neu 1515 1y Brushless Motor
    $232 4X *****-K 3Cell 11.1v 20-30c Lipo @ $58ea.
    $230 2X True RC 15c 8000mAh 2cell lipos
    $200 Spektrum DX3.0 TX
    $85 Spektrum SR3500 RX
    $74 Lipo Charger iC6
    $20 UBEC
    $30 KD36-74-09XL Brushless motor
    $60 Phaltline Tires Tremor Rims
    $26 Velocity LPR Rims ˝” offset
    $40 Badlands MT Tires
    $23 Wheel adapters
    $7 Wheelie Bar Mount
    $10 Wheelie Bar Arm
    $18 Wheelie Bar Wheels
    $25 Better wheelie bar
    $16 Traxxas Revo Adjustable Rear A-arms
    $22 Traxxas Revo Aluminum Pushrods Tubes
    $26 Traxxas Sway Bar
    $42 Traxxas Turnbuckles Tubes
    $23 RPM Front A-Arms
    $6 Springs
    $6 Variable Damping kit
    $20 10g Wire
    $12 Deans Connectors
    $9 Delrin Spur 53t
    $18 Spurs 68,65,62,58,56,54
    $48 RCM 32p Pinion Gears 16,18,20,24
    $7 Bullet Connectors
    $55 KB45 motor
    $124 ***** 25c 4800mah batteries

    $2354 and theres more....not even including shipping
    be nice.

  34. #34
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    i didn't take time to read every reply to this post so i apologize if someone already suggested it but go here:

    http://ghhobby.com/products.php?cat=22

    those are all parts for the e-revo

  35. #35
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    So, seriously, Hoov...

    Given my 2 choices, what would you do?

    Sell the ER as-is and buy an ERBE when they hit stores

    ...Or...

    Choke it down and man up, get the BL setup and be the big boy out of my buds?
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  36. #36
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    That question is more for EVERYBODY, not just the Hoov.
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Well, do what you can afford more easily, and what you really want to do...if you don't want to wait, and think you can afford to just upgrade your existing truck, go that route...if you really don't think you can handle it financially, sell your existing truck now before it gets damaged, and then get a BLE.

    Here's my thinking;
    You already have a nice truck, so let's start at $0. it will cost you $270 for the MMM/2200kV combo and $150 for a good battery setup...that's $420 you will need to spend from right now to have a brushless truck.

    Now, let's say you sell your existing truck, and get $350 for it with NiMH cells. Now you will need to buy a BLE for $700, minus the $350 you have = $350 and a good battery for $150...that's $500 you will need to spend to get a new BLE.

    Just upgrade your existing truck.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I think revo1 has the right idea.

    do what gets the job done the cheapest.
    be nice.

  39. #39
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    I also have to upgrade my radio, that's ~$150, and I need a charger and power supply. That's another ~$100, so there is $250 beyond the MMM setup and batteries.

    I noticed today on Traxxas' website that they do the ERP for Nitro engine guys to upgrade, think they'll offer that for "us"?
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

  40. #40
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    OK, so a brief update. I'm sure some of you saw my "Where to find MMM in stock" thread.

    I decided to just bit the bullet and upgrade what I got. Parts are being ordered as we speak.

    I'm sure I'll be back with a whole new batch of "where does this wire go" and "is this upside down" n00b questions real soon!
    60% Warn! WooooooT!!!

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