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  1. #1
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    Projekt Punisher

    Over the coming weeks this is where the punisher will come to life. And with a little luck it will punish the speed record and pavement, more than it has my wallet.

    I decided to call it the punisher since it will be a twin brushless setup running 4or5 cell each. I have not decided on lipos yet, I'm still looking at lipo sizes and c-rating on various makes.

    I am open to suggestions but I'm leaning towards flightpowers since I already own some awesome 2s packs and I know what they can do.

    I'll be leaving you in the dark on what will be roasting the tires off of it till it get closer to being done. I don't want to ruin the surprise.

    For now a little teaser.
    Yes the bodies a little dusty It's winter and a little too cool to do any driving












    Proline harddrive body airbrushed and painted by a friend. Liquid masking is an amazing invention.

    This may or may not be the body that I'll be using. Bought a jconepts tango body that I like the aero-dynamics of a little more, just needs to be painted

    I did some work on it chassis yesterday just havent taken any photos yet maybe there will be some up tonight if not tomorrow

  2. #2
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    nice body buddy!

  3. #3
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    Thanks. If this just destroys components when its done I can always go to single motor and then I'll have a RC for my brother to use, and he can come out and bash

  4. #4
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    If I never have to glue another set of tires again it will be too soon. managed to glue some tire to my fingers. I think there was more CA on me than on the tires.

    started getting frustrated after the first two ended up gluing one tire backwards and tore the foam in half stretching it onto the wheel. It sorta has a flat spot now.

    overall It wasnt bad but I think I prefer 100small screws to gluing.



    Originally I ordered 1 pair of the tekno RC axle carriers for my first E-revo to see if it would take out some of the wheel play and it has tru-traks on the rear. Those ended up on this one.

    awesome product from what I can tell so far. The tolerance between the 17mm hub and the stub axle is tight so theres practically zero play in the wheels. Plus I didnt have to shim them at all. Another plus is they use the stock pivot ball caps.

    They are bulkier than the stockers but weight doesn't seem that much more

    Ordered 2 more pairs, to finish off this truck and swap the fronts on the other one.





    This was gonna be all about speed, bigger lipos were definitely going to be needed but where to put them?. A little chassis surgery should fix that.

    Took my Air hacksaw to it at work and cut away a little fat


    I have a plan to use some 1/8" aluminum plate to replace the parts I cut out while using the stock screw holes to hold them in place. The aluminum will also provide mounting for the monsters and Rx





    Playing around with an idea for a front wing using stock parts and a little ingenuity. will let you know how it turns out

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    In a box on Hwy 64.2 - Bashin' With Mike, Pat & Brad. hey i didnt start this.
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    decent build so far. will be more impressive as more work is finished up.
    Last edited by 69Malibu; 02-28-2009 at 06:37 PM.
    ADDICTED TO THE TWILIGHT SAGA

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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  7. #7
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    lol nuuh maybe I'll put the batteries on top and the ESC's underneath in the boxes

  8. #8
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    well it appears that I've run into a small hiccup in the lipo selection department. It looks like theres only about 34mm between the bottom of the battery tray and the aluminum motor mount on the right side.

    I could probably get a block of aluminum and build my own mount with different mounting holes bringing it up and giving me about 40mm of height.

    Or I can just limit the capacity of the lipo and keep cell count the same and choose one that fits. Either way, both affect how I'm gonna build the aluminum covers.

    I built a rudimentry front wing last night in about 5min. I'll upload a couple pics tonight. I'd say it looks half decent, whether it'll be functional is another question.

    2nd motor was ordered this weekend after weeks of waiting for them to get them back in stock. Hopefully it'll be here by the end of the week

  9. #9
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    A couple quick shots of the front wing mounted

    drilled two holes in the wing and used the stock front bumper attachment point. Quickest mod I've ever done





    It may be a little aggressive, I guess We'll see

  10. #10
    RC poster
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    This chassis was posted on the forum a few weeks back.

    http://204.186.93.64/E-Revo-Chassis.htm

    It looks like it would solve your lipo problems. Might create a weight issue...

    (looks like a fun crazy project)

  11. #11
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    hmmm interesting. looks similar to a g-maxx chassis. also looks like it would be lower to the ground at least the batteries would be

  12. #12
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    Well the postal service is being extra slow with my latest package apparently. So I wait for my 2nd motor and axle carriers to finish the majority of the assembly. I suppose I'll let the cat outta the bag and tell you that the heart of the beast will be a twin neu 1515 1y running 5s each

    I've started work on the battery tray mod and motor mount mod. I've found an ingenious solution to my battery size issue. Rather than having to build a completely knew motor mount or buy one of the KD ones and modify it.

    I figured out a way to modify the original that would give me the height needed to put larger packs in.

    Started out by machining a flat spot into the original mount.


    wanted to keep it as simple as possible, so I wanted to keep the original pivot for the motor. Marked the center line out where the motor pivoted originally. marked and drilled a hole higher up on the center line. I'll keep the stock black plastic pivot for my other truck.


    Everything below the red-line I'll machine away.


    I'll need to build a spacer to keep the bottom from pulling in but that will be easy.


    Got bored waiting for parts, I decided I'd dye the parts I do have. Went with red on the a-arms and I did black on the other revo so I tried a couple of different ones this time. The navy blue turned out a lot darker than I thought. The royal blue on the rockers turned out way better than I thought. If I get another chassis I'm gonna dye it royal blue.


  13. #13
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    I like the royal blue. Nice Revo

    Luke

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
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    silly question what did you dye it with

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo_lover
    silly question what did you dye it with
    Patience and Sharpies
    'Ralph'--MMM--HC 9XL--Rhino 2s 4900--DX3S

  16. #16
    Marshal carraig042's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphERevo
    Patience and Sharpies

    That would be a lot of patients!

    RIT dye is what we use to dye parts.

    Very nice looking BTW. I also like the Royal blue.

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  17. #17
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    thx carraige were would you get this rit dye ?

  18. #18
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    craft stores carry it. Some drugstores up here do too. the brand name is Rit. Its a type of vegetable dye I believe. Parts were left in hot dye with some vinegar for approximately an hour

  19. #19
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    +1 on the royal blue, that looks awesome,can't wait to see how the battery
    tray mod turns out, stop wasting time on this forum and get building!!!L.O.L

  20. #20
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    erevo lover.. RIT dye is clothing dye and can be bought at any craft store, or even at walmart in their craft or sewing section.
    Reformed nitro operations specialist..

  21. #21
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    They were kind enough to bring me my package today, so the elves were busy tonight.

    I've run into a couple snags with my battery tray mod. Shouldn't be anything big enough to hold me up though.

    I was doing the majority of the fitting with the chassis fairly bare, I didn't take into account of where the spur gear would sit. I have a 60t in it now and form what it appears it'll hit the lipo on that side. Putting a smaller spur in will fix that I already planned to buy 58,56,55t spurs. Tentatively going to gear it 58/24 According to the speed calculator a single 1515 1y will do ~63mph, so 2......






    The front neu is a tight fit. got a few mm between it and the body. I had to bring the posts up a notch for a little extra room. Going to have to Machine a few fins in 1 or 2 spots to get it to pivot right. Smooth can may have been better but meh.


    Lots of work left to do. Gotta hit 3-4 LHS over this weekend and hopefully round up the rest of the parts. Still need the second MMM a beefy single servo. I'll hopefully have the battery covers done before the weekend.

    I could probably shoe horn the 5000mah *****'s in, but I decided to err on the side of caution and go with the physically smaller 4000mah http://www.*********.com/*********/s...dProduct=6414#. A single motor running parallel 5s packs for 8000mah, would be a crazy basher. Sort of my plan after the speed runs

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighKalibre
    dude...

    seriously?

    have you run this thing using one neu motor yet?


    This is gonna be insane!!.... ...

    promise you will take video!
    be nice.

  23. #23
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    Oh there will be video. Yes I stole the one neu out of my other truck. I was running 4s in that. but I have big 40 series mashers on that one

  24. #24
    RC Racer
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    Man.. I thought one neu was madness. Holy shenanigans your going to start flying....flying...flying...away
    E-Revo-MMM 2200-4s-5s-6s
    Go ***** Go!

  25. #25
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    I don't mean to bedrudge you your fun, but this is insanity. Any bets on how long it'll be before you shred something? I give it one full pack before it twists the drive shafts into licorice.. thats if it doesn't unload all that torque by flipping over onto its lid every time you look at the throttle.. this will be very intersting.
    Reformed nitro operations specialist..

  26. #26
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    Have you thought about going with mod 1 gearing from the nitro revo 36,38,40spurs / and up to 25t pinions. It would give your spur some more room but I don't know if they will mesh. This twin 1515 will be a drive train killer for sure. Will you be using a radar or gps?

  27. #27
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    has anyone figured out how to "time" brushless motors to 2 esc's? i haven't found anyone that could do it with the vxls.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrevolution
    has anyone figured out how to "time" brushless motors to 2 esc's? i haven't found anyone that could do it with the vxls.
    as far as I know...they are all a bit different. These are hand wound...so you'll just have to hope I guess.
    be nice.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmj40
    I don't mean to bedrudge you your fun, but this is insanity. Any bets on how long it'll be before you shred something? I give it one full pack before it twists the drive shafts into licorice.. thats if it doesn't unload all that torque by flipping over onto its lid every time you look at the throttle.. this will be very intersting.
    100% punch control. I know enough from driving the first neu not to hammer the throttle This was meant to up the bar in the speed challenge.

    Plan to use a GPS for measuring speed. I've had to start selling some of my paintball gear that isnt getting much use these days, to help fund this little endeavor

  30. #30
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    this is sick going to be amazing!

  31. #31
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    any progress?

  32. #32
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    lipos are ordered and on their way, got the single servo installed alu. arm. started fitting the covers, I need to find some long 2mm screws to secure the covers. I'll take some pics in the morning and post em up

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrevolution
    has anyone figured out how to "time" brushless motors to 2 esc's? i haven't found anyone that could do it with the vxls.
    Well mechanicaly it is easy, as the motors rotate at the same time and speed being tied together with the common spur gear. However the wrench in the works is getting the motors electrically timed together especially using two seperate controllers. each controller has their own internal clock and do not run at the exact same frequency so they appear to fight each other.( some people get lucky and program the ESC close enough that it negates most of this problem but they are not running perfectly in sync and kills a little bit of power and efficiency)


    one way is two motors one controller (airplane guys are doing this...some work great some don't... hard part is getting them started. Once in sync suposedly they rungreat, but requires a controller that can supply a power output great enough for both motors.) one thing they have mentioned is that if the motors are cogged at the same point they almost always start right up.

    I had the idea of trying it myself and am waiting on a few electrical parts to come in to experiment and see if it works. As far as I can see the crucial part is getting the motors to be at the exact same position and coil but once set the spur will hold them in sync and the motors will act as a longer motor or should in theory.
    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 03-15-2009 at 04:48 AM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  34. #34
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    I'm thinking your going to need more weight on the front. Like, maybe a dishwasher or something.
    BMW E21 323i.. My baby.

  35. #35
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    Lol, you guys are funny!!

    Nice project, can't wait for some movies man, keep it up!

  36. #36
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    wow. i think the wing is going to produce enough drag to where you wont need weight in the front.
    2 rustys
    1 rebuilt pede

  37. #37
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    with the twin motor setup the chassis is surprisingly well balances. I'd say almost a little front heavy if anything.

    Picked up and installed the center diff yesterday.

    I've started mocking up the receiver box and ESC position on the lipo covers, so I can start building the unslow harness. Still not quite sure the orientation of the ESC's I'll probably get the covers fitted and mounted first.




    Man those neu's have a fat can. Had to do some liposuction to the front motor to get it to pivot right. I can still take it down a little more if needs be.




    Oh it will still be a few weeks before I'm doing speed runs. The weather up here has gotten nicer and the snows melting. But we awoke to more snow falling this morning

    This is what I'll be dealing with:

  38. #38
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    Batteries came in the mail today. much faster than I expected since I ordered them thursday night. But now with the batteries physically in hand I have the actual working dimensions I need to get the trays finished up. Should be a productive day at work tomorrow

    picking the batteries up from the post office today I think I scoped out the spot where I'll be doing my runs. It's in a bit of a newer commercial/business park and theres a decent strectch of new road that looked to be fairly flat. plus it was clear of snow so hopefully within 1-2 weeks I should have a speed run down.

  39. #39
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    I'm not sure if this is an issue or not but I'm starting to wire up the esc's to the batteries, I have the escs plugged into a servo y harness to the rx.

    I plugged one of the batteries into an ESC and switched it on, both ESC's turned on? which seemed a little odd to me. Is the servo y harness built wrong or do I need to rewire it?

    I'm thinking that the y-harness is constructed so the signal is backwards to one of the connections. so that when its hooked into a pair of servos the one goes CW while the other goes CCW. But when it's hooked into a pair of ESC's the BEC from one is backfeeding power into the other ESC.

  40. #40
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    It is getting power through the bec circuit even though it is not plugged in to the batteries(circuit board is powered but it is not putting out any power to the motor).
    Best idea is to either program them at the exact same time with pinions removed (just slide them off so you dont have to reset your mesh), or to disconnect one from the Y-harness at a time so it does not interfere with the other.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

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