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  1. #601
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    I received the RC Best CVD shafts I ordered because at the price they sell them, I had to try them.

    First, it's for the 3.3 Revo so the middle shafts are useless for now. Second, they would not fit in the inside bearing of the axle carrier. The bearing has an opening of 12 mm and the shaft had a lip of 12.05 mm so I had to disassemble each shaft and grind a little metal to bring that lip down to around 11.97 mm. I over did it on one which is now 11.94 mm The install is not as simple as the stock shafts, I had to unscrew the pillow balls a few turns to be able to slip the CVD shaft with the output drive that goes on the diff. Once installed they work well and don't bind. They take a lot of slop out of the drive train. They do look a bit flimsy, only time will tell if they are strong enough.

    A couple specs for you:
    The shaft has a diameter of 4.1 mm
    The shaft with the rubber boot and output drive weigh 45.5 grams, compared to 40 grams for the stock shafts and 50.5 grams for Summit shafts.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  2. #602
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    The little ears will break off eventually under hard acceleration or when landing a jump while still on the throttle.
    http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp138/TANKS250/

  3. #603
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    Little ears? What broke after 1 minute of running today was the little pins that go through and are held with a set screw. One in the back broke and one in the front. That was money well wasted, I'm glad they were cheap.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Little ears? .

    http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp138/TANKS250/

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Little ears? What broke after 1 minute of running today was the little pins that go through and are held with a set screw. One in the back broke and one in the front. That was money well wasted, I'm glad they were cheap.
    Did you at get to leave neg. feedback on ebay?
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by TANK'S 250
    Thanks tank's.

    quadiak

    Well he shipped fast and it was exactly what was pictured so I don't know about leaving negative feedback. I knew I was taking a chance with these shafts.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Thanks tank's.

    quadiak

    Well he shipped fast and it was exactly what was pictured so I don't know about leaving negative feedback. I knew I was taking a chance with these shafts.
    I have an aversion to people getting away with selling junk, even if it is cheap
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  8. #608
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    Well ebay asks to contact the seller before giving negative or neutral feedback so I did. Here's what I wrote:

    ''I tried your aluminum diff cups for the Revo in the past. They failed during the first run. Recently, I bought the CVD shafts for the Revo. They failed miserably after one minute. AND they didn't even fit at first, the lip that goes in the 18X12 inner bearings of the axle carriers measured 12.05 mm. I had to grind them down to make them fit. You say that you can sell your products cheaper because there's no middle man. You can sell cheaper because your products are exactly that! CHEAP! And not even well made. Ebay asked me to contact you before leaving negative feedback so there! You've been contacted.''

    Was I to harsh? I don't want to hurt the little feelings of the little ebay entity.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Well ebay asks to contact the seller before giving negative or neutral feedback so I did. Here's what I wrote:

    ''I tried your aluminum diff cups for the Revo in the past. They failed during the first run. Recently, I bought the CVD shafts for the Revo. They failed miserably after one minute. AND they didn't even fit at first, the lip that goes in the 18X12 inner bearings of the axle carriers measured 12.05 mm. I had to grind them down to make them fit. You say that you can sell your products cheaper because there's no middle man. You can sell cheaper because your products are exactly that! CHEAP! And not even well made. Ebay asked me to contact you before leaving negative feedback so there! You've been contacted.''

    Was I to harsh? I don't want to hurt the little feelings of the little ebay entity.
    +1 perfect
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?536733

  10. #610
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    hahahaha. You've gotta be honest. I've had shafts break like that ... and it's such a waste.

  11. #611
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    After communicating with RCBest on ebay about their shafts that failed miserably on my ERBE, they answered that they would send a set of front and rear shafts in replacement. At least they have good customer service.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  12. #612
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    Not bad at all, too bad the product apparently won't hold up to B-Power. Well you can at least sell off a whole set now, make your 30$ back and call it a funded experiment.
    I am still hoping you will throw those modded LST shafts on and give them a try, I would think those bad boys will hold up pretty well.
    So far my Traxxas cvd's have held up great on the rear, I have only ran 4s though and after a few dead diffs stopped playing with wheelies and hard starts so I am pretty easy on them.
    That's Just How I Roll o==o>

  13. #613
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    I installed LST XXL shafts on my ERBE and tried them on 6S. I charged up the Hyperions G3s and went at it in my favorite construction site. Those Hyperions are powerful I tell ya. From my experience with this ERBE, with the outside temp being around 50 degrees, and the level of abuse I put the truck through, I can say that for a first test, the shafts are very strong. I seriously doubt that the stock shafts or even Summit shafts would have survived. I also did a couple dozen full throttle starts from a stand still on the side walk. My throttle control is set too high and my slipper too loose to do standing back flips, but it went 3/4 of the way ending on the lid each time. Even these full throttle starts on high grip sidewalks didn't faze the shafts.
    I could set the throttle control to zero and tighten the slipper but the center shafts are still stock so I would probably twist or snap those on 6S. I'll have to wait for the stuff I ordered to come in to replace those center shafts.

    Some stuff needed for this mod:

    - 4 Losi LST XXL CVD shafts (ebay)
    - 4 15X21X4 bearings (Avid)
    - 4 8X16X4 bearings (Avid)
    - 1 set of stock carriers or RD Racing axles carriers (Been running those since around 2004, same set)
    - 1 set of M2C racing 17 mm hexes with 8 mm bore or what I used which is Traxxas 17 mm hexes that have been bored to 8 mm with a 3 mm hole for the pin
    - 4 RC Monster drive cups with 6 mm bore.

    This is how I did it. The axles of the shafts are hardened steel but not quite hard enough to keep from using ordinary drill bits on them. I made new 3 mm holes to reposition the hexes where I wanted them and used an ordinary but good quality M5 tap to make deeper threads inside the axles for the grub screw to go further in.

    Here's the new hole. I measured the center of the hole to be 19.5 mm from the tip of the axle.



    Installed on a spare RD Racing axle carrier with a thick aluminum shim that is used on the pinion of an LST XXL diff.



    So I don't have to measure each time to drill the holes, I made a jig from a scrap piece of metal. The axle slips into it and I just have to insert the drill bit in the correct hole. This block of metal was used for many other projects as a jig so that's why there are many holes in it.



    I now have LST shafts on the ERBE.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  14. #614
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    I used RD racing axle carriers because this is what I use on my truck but the LST shafts can be used with the stock axle carriers also. Here's how I did it.

    Pressing the 15X21 inner bearing in the axle carrier. The bearing doesn't go in the opening for the stock 12X18 bearing. The round opening in the carrier is just the right size to be able to press the 15X21 bearing and it will sit on the lip created by the stock 18 mm opening.



    The outer bearing opening was enlarged just enough so that the outer 8X16 bearing could be pressed in also. This makes both bearings nice and snug with no play.



    This is how I did that. The carriers sit flat when the outer bearing opening is up so I chucked this carbide burr in the small benchtop drillpress.



    Then I just adjusted the height so that the bit just misses that lip onto which the bearing sits and I slowly remove material going in a circular motion, doing my best to stay center. Not the most precise way of doing it but it works.




    A full set of stock axle carriers with LST XXL CVD shafts ready for use. This took me just under 40 minutes to make.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  15. #615
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    Right on! I knew you would do this mod officially eventually and I had a good feeling these shafts would hold up well. Great job on the step by step how to, looks like it's not too tuff to do even with the stock carriers. Thanks for also posting the how to with the stock carriers- your the man MC. What was the approximate cost without the HR carriers?
    That's Just How I Roll o==o>

  16. #616
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    LST XXL shafts can be bought for $20 for a set of 4 on ebay, bearings are a buck a piece at Avid, RC Monster drive cups are $6 a piece. You already have the hexes and the axle carriers that can be modified. So it can be done for $52. Not counting shipping fees.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  17. #617
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    That cost is not bad at all I'm hoping to get a decent set of 3s packs soon and see what 6s is all about but I'm thinking my Traxxas cvd's may not hold up. If that's the case I will be trying this set up next instead of Summit shafts. I will be watching for more updates on how they hold up over time but I'm sure this will end up being one of the best things you have done so far. Thanks again for taking this mod on and throwing up the how to. Wonder how your diffs will hold up now- you switched back to stock diffs correct?
    Last edited by FreakyT333; 11-13-2010 at 10:58 PM.
    That's Just How I Roll o==o>

  18. #618
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    The stock diffs didn't last long on 6S so I went back to the trusty LST XXL diffs a while ago. No problems with those diffs on 6S in a 10 pound truck. I tried the truck again yesterday with the slipper as tight as I could get it. The shafts are holding up beautifully. Next I will try with the punch control set to zero but I have to change my middle shafts first, they are showing signs of stress after the dozens of hard starts I did two days in a row lol
    It's been fun. See ya.

  19. #619
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    Mistercrash you have came through once again. Thank you. I just bought these.

    In regards to the 17mm hexes, would any other brand work. I have some hexes from a Hyper 8.5 so if they would work that would save me money?

    I needed to do an order from Avid for some time now but unfortunately I just did an order from RC-Monster last week. Arghhhh, those drive cups are going to the most expensive part of this thing when shipping to Australia is factored in. Oh well at least there is a proper solution to the drive shafts for the Revo. Now all I need is for RC-Monster to start making the Hybrid diffs for the Revo.
    BASH. BREAK. FIX. REPEAT. ALWAYS REPEAT.

  20. #620
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    I would think that any 17 mm hexes with 8 mm bore would work. There might be other manufacturers that make drive cups but I know for a fact that the RC Monster ones are top notch. I'm in for those hybrid diffs also. The LST XXL diffs work awesome but it is a pain to make them fit.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  21. #621
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    Mistercrash how do you think this setup would go with the Tekno carriers? I was thinking of using them as they come with a larger front bearing with a 8mm hole in it already. That would eliminate two thirds of the work providing the rear bearing can be made to fit the Tekno carriers. Any thoughts?
    Also a friend told me I can have a set of Losi hex adapters he has spare so that might make things even easier but the Tekno Carriers come with 17mm hexes too (if they are a good idea). I like the RD Logic ones two but I can't find them anywhere with reasonably priced shipping so wasn't that keen on them.
    BASH. BREAK. FIX. REPEAT. ALWAYS REPEAT.

  22. #622
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    I don't know if the Tekno carriers would work, I never used them and have no idea if that 15X21 bearing would fit in them. Measure those Losi 17 mm hexes compared to the Traxxas ones, the Losi hexes I had where more like 16.80 mm and were too loose in the wheels and kept on stripping the hex in the wheels.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  23. #623
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    mistercrash, Have you tried and/or what is your opinion on using the Summit shafts ? I'm glad to see this thread survived the upgrade.
    Never do anything half fast. Hey Ya'll, watch this

  24. #624
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    The Summit shafts are tougher than the stock sliders, they do get slop in them rather quickly. And you can't always get them at a good price. The best option is on ebay and if you're lucky, you can find them for around 10/12 bucks a piece. But you get two short ones and two long ones. The short ones can still be used on the ERBE. You can get all the parts separately to make 4 long shafts but that comes to around 22 bucks per shaft.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  25. #625
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    After a couple more runs on 6S with the Hyperion G3s and the slipper as tight as I can make it, the shafts are still going strong with no signs of stress or wear. When the rain stops, I'll be trying them with the punch control set to zero and the locked slipper. I'll just do standing backflips and punch it hard on a very rough construction site.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  26. #626
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    Sounds good, now thats a real test Then you can tell me if the xxl diffs are up for it Are you using TiNi gears or stock? Are you using Hd plastic cups with metal inserts, the old plastic cups or alu cups?

  27. #627
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    My LST XXL diffs use the stock inner gears from the LST2 that came with shims for the planetary gears and the HD diff cups with metal blocks. No TiNi gears in my diffs, I believe the TiNi coating helps a bit with wear but it doesn't make the gears stronger. Just my opinion.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  28. #628
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    I received the Kershaw dogbones for the ERBE yesterday. They are 5 mm thick so they are as beefy as the LST XXL shafts and they ''look'' good. The rear shaft barely fit, it should be a couple mm shorter. The front one didn't fit at all. It is too long. I had to Dremel the slots in the diff cups to make the shaft go deeper so that it could finally fit. Even with that done, it is a little too tight for my taste. This shaft should be 3 mm shorter at least. Being too long and fitting as tight as they do on the length, they don't give a lot of room for chassis flex. The rain has finally stopped up here so I will get my punch control to zero and start doing repeated standing back flips to see if a true 8th scale drive train holds up running the ERBE on 6S.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  29. #629
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    I charged up my two 3S 5000 mah Hyperion G3s and went out to test this 8th scale drive train I have. The slipper is locked (as tight as I can get it without breaking it) and the MMM punch control set at 0. I was curious to find out how many standing back flips I could get from the Hyperions.

    I still don't know how many standing back flips can be done with those Hyperions. I stopped at 100. Yes! 100 consecutive standing back flips! Or attempts I should say, they were not all beautiful to watch

    Most of them had the truck land on the nose, or wing, or the front of the body, or sending the truck cart wheeling. But what is important here is that every of those 100 standing back flips were done the same way. On the extremely high bite surface of the new sidewalks in front of my house, going to full throttle from a stand still.

    I lost body clips, the front body posts are grinded off, the rear wing broke and my F650 body is absolutely done for. So what's the verdict on the 8th scale drive train?












































    Drum roll.....























































    Everything looks fine! The CVD shafts, the drive cups, the center dogbones, it all held up to this grueling testing I did today. I'm very happy.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 11-20-2010 at 03:31 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  30. #630
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    Yaaaayyy! Thanks alot Mc! ooh finaly a setup that works! Are you still using 40 series mashers? Thanks for the effort you have put in this Mc, ruining your body, bodymount and all.

    Im happy again now

  31. #631
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    I'm running Panther Plow Boys mounted on Traxxas dish wheels. They are about the same size and weight as the stock Talons.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  32. #632
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    That's awesome, there is no way any other drivetrain set up out there for the erbe right now could handle even half that many standing backflips. You certainly have created the strongest set up one could hope for. I don't even think those crazy pricey MIP slider cvd's would have held up that well.
    I can't remember if you mentioned it already or not but will this LST cvd set up work with lt rockers and extended rear a arms?

    I wish there was an easier/cheaper way to get set up with bullet proof diffs, how do you think stock diffs with just aluminum cases would hold up running that driveshaft set up on 5-6s?
    Last edited by FreakyT333; 11-20-2010 at 09:14 PM.
    That's Just How I Roll o==o>

  33. #633
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    I run the extended arms so I know they work with them. I don't know about the LT rockers, I mostly run the P2 rockers. I tried the P3s once and went back to P2s. The stock diffs you say? 100 standing back flips on 6S with the stock diffs you say? For now, the only option for 8th scale diffs is the LST ones. Sadly, RC Monster doesn't seem in a hurry to machine more hybrid diffs so it's the LSTs or nothing right now. They are a pain to make them fit in the ERBE but if you are going to go through the trouble and expense of installing 8th scale CVDs and center dogbones, staying with stock diffs makes no sense. Even with aluminum cups. Ya gotta go all out eh!
    Last edited by mistercrash; 11-20-2010 at 09:31 PM.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  34. #634
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    Hey mc
    Is there another place to buy the bits to make the Losi
    Shafts not much on eBay
    I might collect the bits slowly over afew months
    I'm running true tracks so just want to get all parts slowly
    Then sit downand see how to do it before I start drilling and cutting
    Thanks

  35. #635
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    You can get the parts for the Losi LST XXL CVDs anywhere you'd like, online shops, local hobby shop. But I'm not sure if you can get a whole set of 4 complete and new CVDs for $20. The chop shops on ebay are a good place to get them.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  36. #636
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    Some pics of the LST XXL CVDs installed on my ERBE with stock axle carriers.

    It's been fun. See ya.

  37. #637
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    Thanks for posting those pics Mc. I have been thinking about the stock carrier mod, the issue I have wondered about but never asked...If the bearing does sit outside its seat the driveshaft will be pushed too far inside the diffs output if the pillowballs are threaded in normaly..

    I like to have my pillowballs further in than normal, as far in as possible to prevent the pillowball from snapping at the end of the thread. That wont be possible with that setup...I wonder if it would work if I enlarged the stock seat to accept the 15x21 bearing? It looks like it will on the pics with the RD knuckles .

  38. #638
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    If you look at the pic of the rear, the pillow balls are threaded all the way in the arms. The RC Monster diff cups I have on the rear diff lets me do that. The front pillow balls are out in the pic because there was a bit of binding on full steering throw. But that is because I was using diff cups from the RCBest CVD shaft set. I changed the diff cups for the ones I had left from the Kershaw dogbone set and now I can screw the pillow balls all the way in without binding. The Kershaw dogbone set comes with 4 diff cups with 6 mm bore. I used 2 for the output shaft of the tranny. For my LST diffs, I needed diff cups with 8 mm bores so I used 2 RC Monster diff cups. That left me with 2 Kershaw diff cups which are now on the front diff.
    It's been fun. See ya.

  39. #639
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    hey mc
    did u use the ceramic bearings
    im pretty sure they are the best ones
    they say they have rubber seal on one side and metal on other

    i got some losi cvds now will get bearings and rc monster cups

  40. #640
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    Thanks Mr. Well, thats the way to go then. Still going strong without issues? How do you like to shim your Lst diffs? On the pinion, or on the ringgear or both?

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