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  1. #361
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    On a side note, I received my ******* 4500mAh 2S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack and tried them in my ERBE. I charged them up at 3C, they were balanced and ran really well. A lot less top speed of course but still very strong batteries that I ran with no LVC on the MMM. Really cool to not have to worry about your batteries, charge 'em up, run them 'till the truck looses power, recharge and repeat. These will be absolutely perfect for my son's ''GERBE''. I ordered another pair of these. The price just can't be beat.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  2. #362
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    With the cg being lower does it limit the ground clearance? What is the ground clearance with this chassis?
    Xerun 150A 2200kv ERBE
    Dewalt 14.4v Summit

  3. #363
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    Why didn't you get the 3S life cells, since you're no longer limited by the battery boxes?

  4. #364
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    nice review mc. I'm still not ready to part with my money for it yet though.
    infowars.com

  5. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novarider
    With the cg being lower does it limit the ground clearance? What is the ground clearance with this chassis?
    The bottom plate is still above the front and rear skid plates level. If you measure ground clearance in the very highest part of the stock chassis which is under the battery compartments then I would say yes, a little ground clearance is lost in the middle of the chassis. I bashed it again this afternoon and although I could hear the front and rear skid plates rub from time to time, the lower plate of the Kershaw chassis still has no scratches on it so it hasn't rubbed anything yet.


    Quote Originally Posted by V0RT3X
    Why didn't you get the 3S life cells, since you're no longer limited by the battery boxes?
    The LiFe batteries I received are for the ERBE I am building for my 5 year old son and it has the stock chassis on it so that's the reason, they have to fit in there. The other pair I have on order are also for his ERBE. I have two cycle done on the LiFe batteries I have now that I tried in my own ERBE and I really like them so I will definitely look into 3S for myself in the near future.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  6. #366
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    hey

    I really like the chassis......But will not be buying one at that price.
    IMO it's $100 overpriced.
    Would also be nice to not have the cut-out NIMH style battery slots on the trays especially in today's world with lipo becoming the standard.

    I've recently upgraded from a brushless Emaxx to a ERBE and am loving it so far.

    Great thread and truck Mistercrash.......
    We are practically neighbors....I'm in Kitchener.

  7. #367
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    Kitchener eh! We are neighbors. There must be others in the area that play with RC. We should all get together.

    I started working on the new chassis towers I want to make the Kershaw chassis even stiffer and stronger. I decided to use carbon fiber since I already had this 4.5 mm sheet lying around. I cut 20 strips 10 mm wide then I stacked them up using epoxy to glue them together which makes two stiff solid carbon fiber blocks. After the epoxy cured, I trimmed the blocks and sanded them square. The end result is two solid carbon fiber blocks, 42 mm high by 8.9 mm thick. Once these chassis towers are done and installed on the Kershaw chassis, there will be a picture of it beside the definition of ‘’rigid’’ in the dictionary. It will be a PAIN to cut, drill and machine these blocks but I’ll git er done.



    I think I mentioned before that a sheet of carbon fiber 3 mm thick is coming my way to make a new lower chassis plate. This chassis is going to be sweet. The more I look at it, the more I like it. I like the simplicity of it. Other than the hardware, there’s only 4 pieces to it, the top and bottom plates and the two chassis towers. More to come as I will start to disassemble the ERBE again to make those towers and the new bottom plate. I will probably wait ‘till the snow comes since I am still bashing my ERBE and having fun with it.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-05-2010 at 08:47 PM.
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  8. #368
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    Thereís a few things that people find annoying about me. First of all, I speak with a French accent. Better not joke about this, only I can joke about it Another thing is when I have an idea in my head, I have to act on it right now. So here goes, the chassis towers are done It went much better than I thought it would. I guess it helps to have sharp tools. Lemme tell ya! That chassis is as stiff as it can get. I derived a little bit from the drawing I made before and a little trimming was needed to clear the servo horn. The CF towers are 30 grams heavier than the stock ABS ones for a total of 60 grams more but I donít mind it as I really thought it was needed to have stronger, stiffer towers. I like it, Iím happy, I can sleep tonight.

    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  9. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    On a side note, I received my ******* 4500mAh 2S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack and tried them in my ERBE. I charged them up at 3C, they were balanced and ran really well. A lot less top speed of course but still very strong batteries that I ran with no LVC on the MMM. Really cool to not have to worry about your batteries, charge 'em up, run them 'till the truck looses power, recharge and repeat. These will be absolutely perfect for my son's ''GERBE''. I ordered another pair of these. The price just can't be beat.

    For someone with no experiance with Lipo and just finishing building an ERBE, do you think these batteries would suffice for bashing? I've been considering them as an alternative to Lipo but was concerned about performance.
    Just rub some dirt on it, it'll be fine.......

  10. #370
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    They have a lot of punch from a dead stop. They make the truck launch hard and fast like lipos but the top speed is way down. I am geared for 40 mph on lipos. I suspect I have a top speed of 31 or 32 mph with those LiFe packs I got for my son's ERBE. I am very interested in LiFe packs for myself so I will probably shop around for a couple 3S packs in the spring, connected in series for a 6S set up, that should give me speeds and performance comparable to 5S lipo.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  11. #371
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    32 mph is fast enough for the area that I would be running. Although it would be nice to find a way for those 3s packs to fit. Thanks for the feedback.
    Just rub some dirt on it, it'll be fine.......

  12. #372
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    do you think you could gear them to get the top speed without running into temp issues?
    Just rub some dirt on it, it'll be fine.......

  13. #373
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    I can't say if the temps would get too high by gearing for higher speeds. I haven't tried it. Not my intention to try it either as I bought those packs to put in an ERBE that will be geared to go as slow as possible because my 5 year old son will drive it You would have to experiment different gearing options yourself and check the temps. I know LiFe packs are tougher than lipos, they can take quite a beating and still come out strong.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  14. #374
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    I feel you on that one. That's why I have a brushless rustler for when my 2 1/2 year old son or 4 year old daughter want to drive. For the cost of those packs there's no loss in trying.
    Just rub some dirt on it, it'll be fine.......

  15. #375
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    Hey Mistercrash, Are you still using the summit drive shafts?
    If so, how are those holding up on 6s? On my stock drive shafts where the larger pin on the universal joint goes through the slider shaft, the holes in the slider get elongated (sometimes badly) after just a few hard runs and I'm wondering if I should forgo my 8mm stubs and try the summit shafts. They look like they may be more likely to just break rather than stretch like the stockers but how much force does it actually take to break them?

    thanks!

  16. #376
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    The Summit shafts are less likely to break, or snap then the stockers from my own experience. But they wear out quickly, every part in them seems to wear out at the same rate so when it's time to rebuild them, it gets costly. more than $20 per shaft in parts to rebuild, compared to just over $10 for complete stockers. And Traxxas does not want to sell complete Summit shafts, they just sell them in separate parts. I still have Summits on my ERBE but they will soon need to be replaced. I will be running the stockers with the slipper a tad looser.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  17. #377
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    Not much to report, just that I replaced the stock screws that came with my Kershaw chassis. There are six screws that hold the top chassis plate, the two chassis towers and the bottom chassis plate together. The stock screws are not the best and they have a phillips drive which I didn't like. And they were too short as they only caught the lock nut by a few threads, not even reaching the nylon insert of the lock nut. I needed flathead screws that are 55 mm long with a hex drive. I didn't find any. The only ones I found were 70 mm long so I just made more threads on them and cut them to the right length.
    On the left is the stock screw (the tip is stripped already)
    In the middle is the 70 mm screw
    On the right is the modified screw with new threads and cut to 55 mm long.



    Now I can really put some torque on those screws and have the chassis parts sandwiched tightly against each other.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  18. #378
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    The ESC wire coming out from the back was fine on the stock ERBE chassis with the receiver box on the other side of the motor but now my box is in the front on the same side of the chassis as the ESC so I re routed the wire so it comes out the front of the ESC to go to the receiver box. It just looks a bit cleaner that way. The excess on/off switch wire is placed in a piece of heat shrink and tucked away.



    When I finally get my CF sheet to make a new bottom plate, the front battery strap will be placed 10 mm more to the front so the total space I will have for batteries will be 175 mm long by 52 mm wide by 43 mm high.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  19. #379
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    Project GERBE

    Remember GERBE? Gabriel's ERBE? It is pretty much done right now. I'm at the last stage of the build. It is ready to run right now with a Futaba 2PL 2.4GHz FHSS Radio. I am waiting on the body that will need to be painted and I need to get some sticky vynil sheets to print the decals for the wheels. I built this GERBE with all the same little mods and subtleties that my own ERBE has. That kid is spoiled rotten

    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  20. #380
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    Carbon fiber chassis bottom plate

    The carbon fiber plate came in yesterday morning so I started working on duplicating the Kershaw Design bottom chassis plate. I finished this morning and here's the result. I made some changes from the Kershaw bottom plate. A bit more material here and there especially where holes are drilled and counter sunk for screws, I moved the front battery strap 8 mm forward to allow for slightly longer batteries and I didn't make holes for Nimh cells. Even though it has a whole lot more material and is thicker than the stock aluminum plate (3 mm versus 2.2 mm), it is only 10 grams heavier.

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  21. #381
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    I like your heatshrink on the MMM motor connectors (almost smoked my V2 when the neg. bullet came off and touched one of the motor bullets on 6S)

    Did you just open the case and add the heatshrink? Are there any warranty stickers so CC knows if you opened it?

  22. #382
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    I put those heat shrink on there even though I'm not sure if it's necessary. If you say that you had issues with the motor connectors in the past then maybe it was a good idea. The idea is not mine by the way. Yes I opened the MMM case, I had to cut the Castle Creations sticker to do so. I put some heat shrink on the connectors and was very careful not to put too much heat as to not damage anything on the circuit board. I really don't think that opening the case voids the warranty.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  23. #383
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    Something I never mentioned about the placement of the batteries, the stock ERBE chassis has the bottom of the battery around 32 mm below the top surface of the chassis with them tilting up a bit towards the battery doors. The Kershaw chassis places the batteries 45 mm below the top surface of the chassis and they lye flat. That is a very big change in the center of gravity right there.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  24. #384
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    very nice work on the cf chassis plate. i like all your mod's and you defiantly have one of the most custom & strongest looking e-revo's ive ever seen ...
    I know you wish you bought a tekin RX8

  25. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I really don't think that opening the case voids the warranty.
    yea, doesn't the case need to be opened to change the fan?
    infowars.com

  26. #386
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    Yes it has to be opened and CC even explains how to do it so I'm sure it does not void the warranty.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  27. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Yes it has to be opened and CC even explains how to do it so I'm sure it does not void the warranty.
    No it does not void the warranty. I asked joe ford when I was having esc problems if I could take it apart without voiding my warranty and he said no problem. I did not see anything that looked wrong but the bec just quit. They replaced it no problem.
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  28. #388
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    I had a nasty flip a few weeks back, and would like to prevent it in the future, but don't know of any alternatives. I was bashing in the parking lot at my work. It has a few grassy dips that work great for jumps. Well, one time I flew out of a dip, flipped the ERB and it landed square on its top. It broke the rear body mount... I was thinking at first that was all that broke. But, as I tore into the truck to replace the parts, I discovered both rear bulks were broke, the center skid plate broke at the rear mount, and even three "HARDENED" steel pivot pins succumbed. I was thinking it would be nice if somebody would make aluminum replacement bulkheads. I have read on other threads that some people think aluminum is more detrimental than plastic, but I feel it may be the lesser of two evils.
    Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.


    I know... Don't flip the truck on its top!

  29. #389
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    I would say that there are no hop up parts that would help when you have an impact that is big enough to break as many parts as it did on your truck. It was a bad landing, that's all. Replace with stock parts and keep on bashing.

    A little 5S fun in the snow.

    - Bashing through the snow
    - With a brushless ERevo

    I ran until my fingers couldn't take the cold anymore. And plastic doesn't like the cold. I cracked a front bulkhead. It's just a tiny crack so I'll leave it for now. It's fun to bash in the snow but it freaked me out to see the truck when I took the body off. Especially since I didn't do anything to water proof. I should at least use some love balloons over the lipos.

    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  30. #390
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    Yeah, there's a lot of snow getting under there.
    I tried driving in snow today, but as I saw snow coming closer and closer to the esc, I stopped.

    I'm gonna try that liquid tape stuff soon, because I like to keep it working.

  31. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kipper
    I had a nasty flip a few weeks back, and would like to prevent it in the future, but don't know of any alternatives. I was bashing in the parking lot at my work. It has a few grassy dips that work great for jumps. Well, one time I flew out of a dip, flipped the ERB and it landed square on its top. It broke the rear body mount... I was thinking at first that was all that broke. But, as I tore into the truck to replace the parts, I discovered both rear bulks were broke, the center skid plate broke at the rear mount, and even three "HARDENED" steel pivot pins succumbed. I was thinking it would be nice if somebody would make aluminum replacement bulkheads. I have read on other threads that some people think aluminum is more detrimental than plastic, but I feel it may be the lesser of two evils.
    Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.


    I know... Don't flip the truck on its top!
    I think the revo bulkheads would be difficult and costly to machine out of aluminum and that is probably the main reason no one has done it yet, and cast aluminum probably wouldn't even hold up as well as the stock composite bulks.

  32. #392
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    I got a call from the hobby shop this morning, my bodies are in. They are both trimmed and I really like the way they fit. These Proline Ford F650 bodies are wide and long. I use extended rear arms on both ERBEs and the wheel wells almost align with the wheels. If I were to run the stock rear arms, the wheel wells would align perfectly with the wheels. In the pics, the body posts are at their lowest setting and I like how it looks. The body is so long that it almost fits over the stock bumpers so I removed them. I want something I can fabricate that will fit inside the front grill and the rear bumper of the body to give it some support in case of impact with a tree or something.
    One shell will be metallic red and the other will be metallic blue. I will try this Alclad chrome for Lexan for the first time. I'll use it for the front and rear bumpers, the front grill and the rear tool box. The truck beds will be black and I want to have the windshield trim black. And I have some silver to back everything up. I hate to paint bodies but these two have to be as perfect as I can make them.
    Here's a few pics of one of the unpainted bodies on my son's GERBE.

    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  33. #393
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    Mistercrash, would the Losi Smart Diff work for your center diff conversion? Would its "smart" action be of any benefit to the erbe?

    If you or anyone knows if it fits, I may do the conversion with that unit.

    Thanx,

    matt

  34. #394
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    I thought of using one, and the ring gears are exactly the same size, but i couldn't justify spending the 80.00 for the diff
    Bl Erevo w/ Hyper 7 Center Diff
    Sjcrss on RCM

  35. #395
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    I Am An Idiot

    Well not always but sometimes, the things I do are just plain stupid. I wanted to give this ESC waterproofing thing a try so I started coating the ESC board with this liquid electrical tape stuff. I was going well but once it dryed, it was not stuck that well on the board and I was thinking that if it gets unstuck a little bit along the heat sink for example, then there would be a place for water to get in and it would get trapped in there and never dry off. Plus I was not convinced that it was that water tight, especially behind the caps where it is a very tight spot and I couldn't positively verify that the stuff got in there to seal the whole board properly. So I ripped the whole thing off the board and started thinking of what else I could try. I had this tube of white silicon for outdoor windows and doors. I put a small tip on it to squeeze silicon in tight spots and started working on sealing the board. I thought white is great because I could really see where the silicon was going and really check that it was finding its way everywhere. It went well and once I was done, it looked like the board was completely sealed. Then I glanced at the tube and saw:

    LATEX WATER BASED

    I couldn't believe what I just did. I just coated everything with a water based paste So I thought to just let it dry and once the water is out then it'll be fine. Three days later, the thing is still not dry. I decided to clean this stuff off the board but how? I did something radical. I let the board soak in warm soapy water for 9/10 hours and that dissolved the latex based silicon and I was able to clean the residue with an old tooth brush. I got everything off, the board was really clean. Too clean! That protective coating from the factory was off also. So after cleaning everything to like new condition, drying it with compressed air and letting sit on a furnace register for two days, I plugged the board back on the truck with a couple *******s and flicked the switch on. The ESC was working like nothing happened

    But I wanted to get a protective coating back on the board so Tremclad Urethane Clear Coat to the rescue. I used this stuff on many surfaces and it sticks to just about anything, dries quickly and is really though once dried. I gave the board three coats. I actually think that it is practically waterproof now but I'm too scared to dip the ESC in water to test it.

    I am not going to try it, I don't want to come here again and write another lengthy post explaining how much of an idiot I am again
    Water ''resistant'' is enough for me.
    Last edited by mistercrash; 12-22-2009 at 01:35 PM.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  36. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    Well not always but sometimes, the things I do are just plain stupid. I wanted to give this ESC waterproofing thing a try so I started coating the ESC board with this liquid electrical tape stuff. I was going well but once it dryed, it was not stuck that well on the board and I was thinking that if it gets unstuck a little bit along the heat sink for example, then there would be a place for water to get in and it would get trapped in there and never dry off. Plus I was not convinced that it was that water tight, especially behind the caps where it is a very tight spot and I couldn't positively verify that the stuff got in there to seal the whole board properly. So I ripped the whole thing off the board and started thinking of what else I could try. I had this tube of white silicon for outdoor windows and doors. I put a small tip on it to squeeze silicon in tight spots and started working on sealing the board. I thought white is great because I could really see where the silicon was going and really check that it was finding its way everywhere. It went well and once I was done, it looked like the board was completely sealed. Then I glanced at the tube and saw:

    LATEX WATER BASED

    I couldn't believe what I just did. I just coated everything with a water based paste So I thought to just let it dry and once the water is out then it'll be fine. Three days later, the thing is still not dry. I decided to clean this stuff off the board but how? I did something radical. I let the board soak in warm soapy water for 9/10 hours and that dissolved the latex based silicon and I was able to clean the residue with an old tooth brush. I got everything off, the board was really clean. Too clean! That protective coating from the factory was off also. So after cleaning everything to like new condition, drying it with compressed air and letting sit on a furnace register for two days, I plugged the board back on the truck with a couple *******s and flicked the switch on. The ESC was working like nothing happened

    But I wanted to get a protective coating back on the board so Tremclad Urethane Clear Coat to the rescue. I used this stuff on many surfaces and it sticks to just about anything, dries quickly and is really though once dried. I gave the board three coats. I actually think that it is practically waterproof now but I'm too scared to dip the ESC in water to test it.

    I am not going to try it, I don't want to come here again and write another lengthy post explaining how much of an idiot I am again
    Water ''resistant'' is enough for me.
    I generally don't even run mine if the grass is damp, much less through standing water. Just makes a mess I have to clean up later, if it stays dry then a quick once over with the air gun on my compressor cleans it easily.

  37. #397
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    very disturbing

    Quote Originally Posted by mistercrash
    I Am An Idiot
    This is a very disturbing revelation. Mistercrash, it was your thread that originally helped convince me to get an ERBE. I have always thought your ideas and mods were very good. Now, I have to consider that maybe some (or even all ) of the advice of yours I've taken has been bad. I'll have to consider this new piece of information very carefully in the future.
















  38. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by candy76man
    I generally don't even run mine if the grass is damp, much less through standing water. Just makes a mess I have to clean up later, if it stays dry then a quick once over with the air gun on my compressor cleans it easily.
    I prefer to run my ERBE when it's dry too but I really want to run it from time to time this winter. 4 months of snow is a long time not to run my truck.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  39. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian015
    I have always thought your ideas and mods were very good. Now, I have to consider that maybe some (or even all ) of the advice of yours I've taken has been bad.
    Yes this whole thread is just a big scam, all lies and false information
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  40. #400
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    I thought I'd try this clear coat stuff on my steering servo. It is supposed to be water proof but it has proven other wise in the past so I gave the servo three thick coats of this stuff. I plan on running my ERBE in the snow again tomorrow and I will see if water will stay out of this servo from now on.

    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

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