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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Won Steel CVD's on ebay...are they complete?

    I just ordered aluminum caster/steering blocks and aluminum rear axle carrier as well as the Traxxas steel CVD's....

    The steel CVD's i got on ebay... can someone tell me if I need anything else besides what's in this picture (ebay auction i won) i would need to run the driveshafts? I only picked them up cuz they were $16 shipped to me!!!!

    Here's the picture: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270360277847

  2. #2
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    you're gonna need to get diff oil. higher the weight if you don't want one wheel to spin faster than the other.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    yes those are complete

  4. #4
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    i saw a thread talking about cvd gaskets, and I'm thinking I need some of those...but i'll have to check what i need when they come in for sure.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
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    everything should be in the package to put the cvd in and be warned the e-clips to lock them into place are tiny so don't lose them
    Billy
    T-Maxx 3.3 Jato 3.3

  6. #6
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    install instructions - http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5...riveshafts.pdf


    i've found using tweezers on the little E Clips works the best for me.


    Also if you recieve these and are without the little teflon washers and the blue "x rings" then you'll need part #5581 i'm in the process of waiting on this right now. My blue X rings somehow shredded up... heres my post http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=465134
    Prelude2Jato

  7. #7
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    thanks for the info...when I asked the seller if they are complete, he said yes, but I still think I need those gaskets and the diff seal no matter what. It's only 3 bucks anyways. I don't think I'll get any e-clips either, which might be a problem as they only come in that kit with the rubber dust boots and whatnot.

    I'll see for sure when I get them in though. In the meantime, the Jato has been ripping it up this last week when I was on spring break hehe I convinced two of my buddies to pick up nitro r/c cars too so now I've got more people to run with. (Nitro 4tec 3.3 which the one kid sold to my other friend, and Associated Mini MGT 3.0 after he saw my car run offroad, so he bought a MT LOL)

    I also put the New Era top plate brace and bottom reinforcing plate in as well, to go with my traxxas lighweight chassis. I haven't broken anything since putting them on. I should really post a pic of it cuz it looks nice now... I let the car sit for about a year and a half, and now i've got the itch to mod it haha
    Last edited by dres240; 03-24-2009 at 01:29 AM.

  8. #8
    RC Enthusiast
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    Parts on the car: Lighweight Chassis, New Era Top Plate Brace, N.E. Bottom Reinforcing Plate, N.E. Front and Rear Turnbuckle Braces, Pentube/Fuel Line Brake mod, Fuel Filter, Talon Tires (should I gear down? What tooth CB should I get?)

    Parts coming in: Aluminum Caster & Steering Blocks, Aluminum Rear Axle Carriers, Single Chamber Traxxas Resonator 8543, and the CVD's. Also ordered the stainless steel screw set for Jato 3.3. I never seem to have enough screws.

    Anything else I should get for general bashing?

  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast
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    Forgot to list RPM A-Arms Front and Rear, as well as the RPM Bumper that are on the car already.

    Also ordered an Ofna micro failsafe because the venom smart temp one i had before had a temp gauge wire ripped out that caused it to short or act up...

    I think a long needed 20T CB, and some badlands 30s would be on the plate next since the talons are ballooning and almost done : P

    This hobby is burning a hole in my pocket and I just got back into it 2 weeks ago ****

  10. #10
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    I keep thinking of new stuff, so I'm thinking now that a 22T CB would be better than 20T since I want to keep some top end but have bigger tires. Would losing only 2 teeth be a good balance for bigger tires and still gaining some low end?

    Most threads say drop 4 teeth for offroading, but I like to rip on tarmac too, so I don't wanna lose a whole bunch of top end. How would 54/22T gearing do with talons or badlands tires?

    I'm looking at getting either the traxxas 4120 or 4122 CB's....Would those bolt right in? I NEED INPUT!!!!! wanna get everything set up for friday when I get some time to bash this thing with all new parts installed!!!!
    Last edited by dres240; 03-24-2009 at 06:24 AM.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier oldbikedude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dres240
    Parts on the car: Lighweight Chassis, New Era Top Plate Brace, N.E. Bottom Reinforcing Plate, N.E. Front and Rear Turnbuckle Braces, Pentube/Fuel Line Brake mod, Fuel Filter, Talon Tires (should I gear down? What tooth CB should I get?)

    Parts coming in: Aluminum Caster & Steering Blocks, Aluminum Rear Axle Carriers, Single Chamber Traxxas Resonator 8543, and the CVD's. Also ordered the stainless steel screw set for Jato 3.3. I never seem to have enough screws.

    Anything else I should get for general bashing?
    The stock pipe is a Single Chamber so if you have the 3.3 you are just going from blue to polished. No stainless steel screw set!!! I heard that they brake easly.
    JATO 3.3
    Stampede Build
    DeWalt 12v E-REVO on 4s

  12. #12
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    go with Tony's screws instead of stainkless and as old bike said your buying the same pipe only polished the DC is a ndifferent number so only difference is you're going to have a polished single chamber instead of a blue pipe
    Billy
    T-Maxx 3.3 Jato 3.3

  13. #13
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    I already ordered the screws, so no turning back lol ... As for the pipe, I got it because it was $25 bucks and on my stock pipe, the stinger got pushed back about 60 degrees and it made a hole right near my stinger from the metal bending, so I don't think I was getting the full potential out of it even when I bent it back.

    Anyone care to elaborate on my clutchbell question? I'm gonna order the one I need soon.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
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    Since ive installed the 20T clutchbell, its given my Jato some serious acceleration power. Trouble is, i cant get the power down without some decent tyre shredding action..
    Rustler 2.5
    Jato 3.3
    T Maxx 2.5R
    T Maxx 3.3

  15. #15
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    what tires are you on? and did you lose top end? I really wanna know the differences between the 54 spur with 22t or 20t would be better with talons/badlands tires on a mix of street and dirt.

  16. #16
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    I went bashing around today, and stripped my spur gear, and may have killed my tranny too...will have to wait till tomm. to mount a new spur gear from the LHS to see if it still runs. Also broke a bellcrank arm, and replaced it with one I had lying around....I think this is the weakest part of my Jato right now...the bellcrank feels so flimsy and weak compared to the rest of the car. I don't have the bearing or draglink upgrade, and I think I'm just gonna order the full aluminum bellcrank upgrade and call it a day LOL


    On order now is aluminum brake cam levers with metal bearings and ended up going with a 22T CB instead of 20T cuz I'm not only gonna be bashing in dirt.

    I put the aluminum caster/steering blocks, aluminum rear axle carriers, and the resonator today with no problems.. Still gotta put the Steel CVD's in though. What diff weight should I use? 10k?
    Last edited by dres240; 03-25-2009 at 11:40 PM.

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