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  1. #1
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    after run !! help

    i was just wondering how important is it to do a after run treatment?
    if so i have a awsome lube that i use on everything i just want to know would it work, its called blaster silicone lube,,,it says it stops rust and protects from moisture,,,,,

    http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=15

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    After run is very important, especially if your truck is sitting for more than a day
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  3. #3
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    I just use some after run oil form the LHS it seems to work pretty good. I have just over 3 gals. through my engine and I do the after run procedure after every time I get done runing. Bye the way thats 3 gals. since February of this year I like to take the Maxx out alot.
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  4. #4
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    You are going to get different answers from different people. Some say that you don't need to because modern fuels make it unnecessary, others say that you only need to if you are going to leave it sit for a long period of time, some say that it is necessary to do each time you get done running for the day, some say that it is cheap insurance and to just do it even though they don't know if it is important or not.

    I think that you should definitely do it if you are going to leave it for a while and not run it. If you miss doing it once in a while, I don't think it is such a big deal, but I think you should do it as much as possible. And I would think that you should probably use something designed specifically for this purpose.

  5. #5
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    Well the after run is up too the individual. I prefer to do an after run on my engines if I don't plan on running them with in the next 2 -3 days. However I always run my engines out of fuel and then use the starter to start the engine for several seconds until all of the fuel is used up and it wont even attempt to start. That way there is no fuel in the lines or crank case I do this at the end of every day that I run.

    Now at the beginning of winter I put lots of after run oil in the crank case and a few drops in the cylinder through the glow plug. I also use a good battery charger/cycler and discharge and charge my battery's all winter long. This keeps them in perfect shape for the next season not to mention it saves money by not having to replace them.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petox20
    You are going to get different answers from different people. Some say that you don't need to because modern fuels make it unnecessary, others say that you only need to if you are going to leave it sit for a long period of time, some say that it is necessary to do each time you get done running for the day, some say that it is cheap insurance and to just do it even though they don't know if it is important or not.
    +1

    Well summarized.

    I myself don't bother unless it's going to sit for more than a few days.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Man
    However I always run my engines out of fuel and then use the starter to start the engine for several seconds until all of the fuel is used up and it wont even attempt to start.
    This IMO is bad practice. Remember that the fuel is the only lube the engine has.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Parker
    This IMO is bad practice. Remember that the fuel is the only lube the engine has.
    Yes but if there is fuel in the engine it will evaporate, and when it does it leaves deposits on the cylinder wall. BAD when you try to start it the next time. You should always make sure the fuel is gone!

  9. #9
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    i just use WD-40
    and it works really well
    rise with the fallen

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbldwn02
    Yes but if there is fuel in the engine it will evaporate, and when it does it leaves deposits on the cylinder wall. BAD when you try to start it the next time. You should always make sure the fuel is gone!
    The only thing that might be left is a sticky residue, which is not bad for the engine.

    There's also a big difference between running the engine dry and cranking it dry.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Let's look at the 1 property of Nitro RC fuel. Nitromethane is hygroscopic. This means it attracts water. Even in some of the squeeze fuel bottles it can literally pull water through the pores of the plastic. Seen it myself, would not believe it till I had seen it.

    So, if water is attracted to the fuel and there is some in the engine water will find it's way into the internals. The engine having bearings usually of steel, they are prone to rust if exposed to water, then the bearings break down causing pitting and put nice wear lines onto your crankshaft.

    If you are just leaving your RC for a small period of time 1-3 days I don't think it's enough time to attract water into the engine as long as you ran your motor dry when you put it up.

    Another point is the fuel can break down the grease in the bearings if let sat for too long. I have seen many front bearings start leaking, along with backplates, from not using some form of after run, or having a fuel with after run oil in it.

    SO what do I do? At $105.00 an engine and my other engine costing me around $300.00 (Truggy motor OS Vspec modded by Maxy's) I don't want to chance my investment for something that just takes a couple of minutes.

    I do a different way of after run. 1st I run the motor dry at idle, then I basically loosen my glow plug a bit, I have a fuel tube attached to my after run bottle. I remove the fuel line from the carb and attache the tubing from my after run bottle, work the throttle and squeeze the bottle until I see some come out from unfer the glow plug. Then I tighten the glow plug back down and put the piston to BDC.

    This method will ensure the after run oil has passed through all the internals and prevents the OOPS factor of dirt dropping down the glow plug hole or into the carb. It has worked great for me once I figured out how much is too much after run oil.... Too much will make it hard to start the next time around.

    My engines last and this is what has worked for me for 3 yrs now.
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  12. #12
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    The whole concept of water being drawn in through the plastic container is absurd. We all know about the hygroscopic nature of methanol, but really...

    Also the idea of fuel breaking down the grease in the engine bearings if let sat for too long is a load of nonsense since the (vaporized) fuel is present in the crankcase either way when the engine is running. If you take a look at used bearings you'll see no presence of grease. (Grease won't stick at 30k rpm anyway.) It's the oil in the fuel that lubes the whole lot.


  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    One or two drops of ARO in the hole after running it. A few pulls to move the piston up and down with the plug out and a clean towel over the top of the head (to catch splatter)..

    Mark your flywheel at BDC, bring it to BDC after every use. A shot of WD-40 before you prime to get the sleeve and top of the piston lubed (for the pinch) <--"meaning the next time you run it" and you will have a long lasting healthy mill..
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaysd200
    i was just wondering how important is it to do a after run treatment?
    if so i have a awsome lube that i use on everything i just want to know would it work, its called blaster silicone lube,,,it says it stops rust and protects from moisture,,,,,

    http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=15
    I have never used a silicone based lube as after run, but WD-40 works extremely well. The WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement. Water is the number one enemy of your nitro engine, and so it just makes sense, and is the reason why many many people just use a shot of WD-40 as after run. Remeber that the purpose of after run is not to lube the engine, it is to protect the engine from rust that is the result of nitro fuel's natural ability to attract water.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Parker
    The whole concept of water being drawn in through the plastic container is absurd. We all know about the hygroscopic nature of methanol, but really...

    Also the idea of fuel breaking down the grease in the engine bearings if let sat for too long is a load of nonsense since the (vaporized) fuel is present in the crankcase either way when the engine is running. If you take a look at used bearings you'll see no presence of grease. (Grease won't stick at 30k rpm anyway.) It's the oil in the fuel that lubes the whole lot.

    Why do you think you are not supposed to leave a plastic fuel jug on a concrete floor? Why do you think Traxxas puts their fuel into a metal container? Not because metal is cheaper than plastic as its not. Its because water can work its way through the plastic. Its not absurd. My Spidey sense is tingling, and its telling me to stay away from your advice Peter Parker .
    Last edited by Petox20; 06-11-2009 at 08:07 PM.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Grand National's Avatar
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    Like kella mentioned, it is essential to your trucks life.
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  17. #17
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    i think it is important to at least make sure your piston is not stuck at top while your motor is cooling from a run. you will primiturely wear your sleve to the piont of no or loss of compression! and shooo while you are checkin that you might as well drop some after run oil in there while your at it! 20% 4 life

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petox20
    Why do you think you are not supposed to leave a plastic fuel jug on a concrete floor? Why do you think Traxxas puts their fuel into a metal container? Not because metal is cheaper than plastic as its not. Its because water can work its way through the plastic. Its not absurd. My Spidey sense is tingling, and its telling me to stay away from your advice Peter Parker .
    I hate to butt in here but Top Fuel no longer comes in a metal can(at least not at mt LHS. Every fuel they sell comes in a plastic jug. Plus the alcohol would escape through the plastic as much as the water would get sucked in. I believe the fuel finds water whenever the jug is opened and draws the moisture out of the air more then any other way.
    I also agree that the bearings are lubed by the fuel and if the fuel would eat the grease, it would do it 10 fold when the engine is running and hot.
    But the Blaster spray is overkill. You don't need to break down rust and corrosion. You need to prevent it. It could actually be a little chemically abrasive in that respect. Stick with a few shots of WD or my favorite-Marvel Mystery Oil. I found it in spray formula for $1.50 at a store called Big Lots. I doubt its there any more but I'm sure its around somewhere.
    Do the after run at least when storing the truck for several days. Just blow away any dirt by the GP before removing it.
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  19. #19
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    I was told at my local hobby shop that i could use wd40 is that fine to use

  20. #20
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    i just got s used jato and when i spun the motor over you could feel it gummed up i sprayed some WD-40 in there and it felt much better who ever had it before me did not do after run maintance so yes it is important as far as what to use every one uses something diff if im going to store my trucks or if something broke and i know i wont run it for awhile ill put some after run oil in it.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petox20
    My Spidey sense is tingling, and its telling me to stay away from your advice Peter Parker .
    Yeah that's right buddy, go with your "spidey sense" instead.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Parker
    The whole concept of water being drawn in through the plastic container is absurd. We all know about the hygroscopic nature of methanol, but really...
    I did not say All plastic bottles , but the ones that are the filler bottles. The type of plastic they use is less porous than the ones the fuel is stored in. The water molecules are smaal enough to pass through the tiny pores. This is on the microscopic level.

    If you are going to respond to my posts Peter Parker maybe you should thoroughly read what I had posted. I never stated all plastic and have witnessed this myself. Left fuel in squeeze bottle in my garage (80% humidity in Florida). You could see the water in the plastic squeeze bottle with the fuel..

    Take apart any new metal bearing that is sealed, use a pin to remove the rubber seal and you will see the ball bearings have a light coat of grease on them. No matter what mfr they are.


    Maybe some more research will help you there.
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 06-12-2009 at 12:06 PM.
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  23. #23
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    You made 2 statements in your original post which is simply not true, then instead of retracting them and apologizing for misleading people, you come out with guns blazing and now accuse me of not reading your post. (Another false statement! ).

    Not all new bearings are lubed with grease, so you're wrong there again. But we're not talking about new bearings in any case so that's really besides the point. (Looks to me like you're the one not reading properly and needing to do some research...) You said that "fuel can break down the grease in the bearings if let sat for too long" and implied that this causes bearing failure and leaks through bearings. This bar stool reasoning is flawed and incorrect as I pointed out before.

    Secondly, the moisture does not penetrate through the walls of the plastic container. Instead it get's sucked in through the opening when you refill and it's also present in air. This moisture condensates under certain conditions and then becomes visible.

  24. #24
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    Question Bottom D Cylinder?

    Quote Originally Posted by got_nitro
    Mark your flywheel at BDC, bring it to BDC after every use.
    Let me ask a stupid question, What does the BDC mean? I'm guessing it means when the piston is lowest in the cylinder, but I can't figure out the acronym.

    BTW I use WD-40 and a paper towel, and it works for me.

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    ^OK Peter Parker,,,, I've made my points you've made yours. I'm not going to bicker over this, I don't have too.^

    Some good searching on this very forum and many others backs up what I'm saying.

    dr01mart, BDC = Bottom Dead Center. Basically rotating the flywheel until the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve.
    Last edited by Nitronaught; 06-12-2009 at 03:42 PM.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught
    ^I've made my points you've made yours. I'm not going to bicker over this.^

    Some good searching on this very forum and many others backs up what I'm saying.
    Got links?

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Parker
    Got links?
    I'm not going to search much more than this for you, but the threads basically back up what I'm saying here....

    You need more you know where the "search" is...

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ht=hygroscopic

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ht=hygroscopic

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ht=hygroscopic

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ht=hygroscopic
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  28. #28
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    Those links prove absolutely nothing - all just opinions given by other posters on the Traxxas forum. "Saying so doesn't make it so", remember?

    I certainly hope you don't base all your advice and statements on what you read here or elsewhere on forums?

  29. #29
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    Sorry, but I have to agree with Parker on this one. Many will hate me for it but he is dead on when he said that the water is present in the air in the bottle already. The change in temps, dew point etc. all effect when you see those water droplets. If the fuel was drawing the moisture in, it would draw it into the fuel, not to the sides of the bottle. Those threads have no scientific fact behind them, unfortunately.

    Secondly, grease or no grease, the bearings will become cleaned by the fuel traveling through the engine as it runs, much more than when its not.

    I think these reasons for using after run are way over thought. The goal is to avoid corrosion on all the parts. The fuel absorbs water mostly when in the fuel tank. And it does this via the pressure line from the exhaust. Water is a byproduct of combustion and some of the exhaust gasses and water are being pumped right into the tank. This is why you want to run your engine and fuel lines dry at the end of a run. Killing the engine with fuel still in the lines means there will be fuel present in the engine. Fuel = some water = not good. Regardless of what exactly happens from there, its best to avoid having leftover fuel. The after run lubricants in some fuels should be good enough for the short term if you run it basically dry. Extended storage should have WD or some corrosion protection added. But not a corrosion remover. That is overkill.

    I've stated my case, don't hate me for it!
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  30. #30
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    TMAXXTER we may not agree on everything but at least we show each other respect.

    Peter, I don't want to argue anymore with you. I have my information and experience you have yours. This is a forum and people can come to their own conclusions however they want.

    But lets face it, back on topic. Doing an after run procedure will help increase the life of your motor. All RC mfr's recommend this in their manuals.... I'm sure you will agree on that.
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  31. #31
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    I just spray a little wd-40 in the carb/piston after each run. Going on my 4th year (maybe 5 gallons max through it) of the original engine so it must work!

  32. #32
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    It seems that you're not going to admit that you were wrong. Pity, because it would be more beneficial to your credibility than to continue denying the truth.

    Unless of course you still believe your own hypothesis, which is even worse...

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Parker
    It seems that you're not going to admit that you were wrong. Pity, because it would be more beneficial to your credibility than to continue denying the truth.

    Unless of course you still believe your own hypothesis, which is even worse...
    You asked for links, there is plenty of info out there and other sites to back up what I've posted.

    I've already told you I'm not going to bicker with you any longer.

    BTW I see nothing but your own banter yet you have not so much provided 1 ounce of any proof of what you are posting... I've provided links you asked for, how about some of your own?
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  34. #34
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    okay i might be a noob to nitro. but i make sure to after run all my nitro's every single time i run them. even if it is only for 2 minutes. takes about 5 minutes from start to finish. and the engines fire up quickly and nicely. do the after run.
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