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  1. #1
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    "Custom" 2S A123 1100mah batteries just arrived

    Just got two packs of "Custom" A123 Racing batteries from Cheapbatterypacks.com. They are just drop shipped from A123 Racing. Not a bad thing of course, but if you can find A123 racing packs for cheaper, by all means.

    They fit but are SNUG. They come with deans whether you ask for bare wire or not. Going to try them out tomorrow. Going to see how they compare with the stock NiMH pack...

    ...by trying them both in my 1/10th scale slash with an 80amp motor and really tall gears...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Just got two packs of "Custom" A123 Racing batteries from Cheapbatterypacks.com. They are just drop shipped from A123 Racing. Not a bad thing of course, but if you can find A123 racing packs for cheaper, by all means.

    They fit but are SNUG. They come with deans whether you ask for bare wire or not. Going to try them out tomorrow. Going to see how they compare with the stock NiMH pack...

    ...by trying them both in my 1/10th scale slash with an 80amp motor and really tall gears...
    Dang, and I thought I would be the first to get some more data on these cells and how they run. My packs are truely custom not from A123 racing - they are from tanicpacks.com. I have gotten too many bad cells in the official A123racing packs to mess with them.

    I plan on running stock 7.2v vs 6.6v A123, then stock 14.4 vs 13.2 (with GPS handheld strapped to chassis).

    Hopes are high based upon how awsome my hyper buggy does with the big 26650 A123 cells

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Just got two packs of "Custom" A123 Racing batteries from Cheapbatterypacks.com. They are just drop shipped from A123 Racing. Not a bad thing of course, but if you can find A123 racing packs for cheaper, by all means.

    They fit but are SNUG. They come with deans whether you ask for bare wire or not. Going to try them out tomorrow. Going to see how they compare with the stock NiMH pack...

    ...by trying them both in my 1/10th scale slash with an 80amp motor and really tall gears...

    Do you have a charger for them ? You can't just throw those on any charger. It has to be made to charge A123's was my understanding
    Last edited by sggeaux; 06-30-2009 at 04:36 PM.

  4. #4
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    Needs to understand that the cells are nominally 3.3v and has to have a balancer. Additionally, for the 15 minute charge times, it needs to have a progressive rate charge mode: Hypothetically 10amp in the beginning, with progressively less current as the batteries gain charge.

    Otherwise, the 1c rule applies.

    Quote Originally Posted by sggeaux
    Do you have a charger for them ? You can't just throw those on any charger. It has to be made to charge A123's was my understanding

  5. #5
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    Sounds like you'll have real data, I am just going to show, visually, what it means to not provide enough current.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tomeygun
    Dang, and I thought I would be the first to get some more data on these cells and how they run. My packs are truely custom not from A123 racing - they are from tanicpacks.com. I have gotten too many bad cells in the official A123racing packs to mess with them.

    I plan on running stock 7.2v vs 6.6v A123, then stock 14.4 vs 13.2 (with GPS handheld strapped to chassis).

    Hopes are high based upon how awsome my hyper buggy does with the big 26650 A123 cells

  6. #6
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    coreyfro, did you get to test these batteries yet?
    Savage-Modified!, E-Revo VXL, Slash 2wd, Mini-T

  7. #7
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    Not yet. Have Friday off.

    Assembly of wiring took longer than expected, and it was dark before I could drive.

    Quote Originally Posted by Memnoch
    coreyfro, did you get to test these batteries yet?

  8. #8
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    Keep us informed. I'm really interested to hear how well those work for you.
    Savage-Modified!, E-Revo VXL, Slash 2wd, Mini-T

  9. #9
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    So I recorded a bunch of film of my 1/10th scale slash with an 80-90 amp brushless motor, running a 5000mah 2S lipo (control), the 6 cell 1200mah NiMH and the 2S 1100mah LiFePo4 pack I got for my E16.

    I may compile the video, I may not.

    Here's what I saw.

    The LiPO had enough power to flip my car from a stand still and the car never cogged. This is a 10th scale pack, though.

    The NiMH pack cogged horribly, would stutter on fast starts, but eventually got to a fairly quick speed and didn't stutter once rolling. Not near the speed of the LiPO but quick.

    The LiFePo4 pack didn't stutter, didn't cog, but wasn't as quick, which stands to reason, as it is nominally 6.6v.

    So next I'll put the two 2S packs in my Revo in series and see what 4S looks like.

    Quote Originally Posted by Memnoch
    Keep us informed. I'm really interested to hear how well those work for you.

  10. #10
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    Ran 4S LiFePo4 packs. I have used the mod from the post below:
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ht=demystified

    So my ride ran about 2/3rds as fast as it probably would normally go.

    I ran it on grass for about 25 minutes.

    At 4S with the above mod, the motor got to 146f and the speed control got to about 125f

    There was minimal cogging and it floated over the grass with no problem.

    Obviously, no problems if conservative gearing is used.

    Plenty of speed and power on the grass. Had no trouble braking loose at high speed.

    Going to put taller wheels on, and then I think my setup is done.

  11. #11
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    Any updates?

    Have any picks on how well they fit in the tray?

    Runtimes from running them in series?

    How much slower are they @ 6.6v?

    Sorry for all the questions.

  12. #12
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    No prob.

    They fit snug. The doors are latched tight and the tabs need to be opened with a jeweler's screw driver. Nothing to see, really. They fit.

    6.6v is slower, and not just a little, but 4S, 13.2 volts is awesome. Both 12cell NiMH and 4S A123 hit the rev limits, but the A123 batteries have way more punch with taller gears.

    Run time in 2S2P config is longer than my attention span. Last time I ran it for 30 minutes, and my charger said it only had to put about 800Mah's back. I'm guessing they can provide 40 minutes of bashing runtime in a 2S2P config. This is with lower gearing, though.

    4S with the 26 tooth still hits the rev-limiter, and that bugs me, so I haven't bothered to run down a pack yet, and since I run with a lower gearing normally, it's very easy to hit the rev limiter.

    Going to swap out the motor and the ESC with a Mamba Max 10h scale and a Lehner 1530/8t (found it on sale!) Then A123 will be required and NiMH will not be an option.

    Were it not for this sale, I would suggest a Neumotor, any of the 10XX series, really, at anywhere from 7000-7500KV and run them on 6.6v, 2S2P. Seriously, this is ideal.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaDOOD
    Any updates?

    Have any picks on how well they fit in the tray?

    Runtimes from running them in series?

    How much slower are they @ 6.6v?

    Sorry for all the questions.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    No prob.

    They fit snug. The doors are latched tight and the tabs need to be opened with a jeweler's screw driver. Nothing to see, really. They fit.

    6.6v is slower, and not just a little, but 4S, 13.2 volts is awesome. Both 12cell NiMH and 4S A123 hit the rev limits, but the A123 batteries have way more punch with taller gears.

    Run time in 2S2P config is longer than my attention span. Last time I ran it for 30 minutes, and my charger said it only had to put about 800Mah's back. I'm guessing they can provide 40 minutes of bashing runtime in a 2S2P config. This is with lower gearing, though.

    4S with the 26 tooth still hits the rev-limiter, and that bugs me, so I haven't bothered to run down a pack yet, and since I run with a lower gearing normally, it's very easy to hit the rev limiter.

    Going to swap out the motor and the ESC with a Mamba Max 10h scale and a Lehner 1530/8t (found it on sale!) Then A123 will be required and NiMH will not be an option.

    Were it not for this sale, I would suggest a Neumotor, any of the 10XX series, really, at anywhere from 7000-7500KV and run them on 6.6v, 2S2P. Seriously, this is ideal.

    So that 0.6v difference between A123 and NiMH is a noticeable difference in speed? I was hoping the 30C would make up for it. At least runtimes going parallel are great.

    What gearing are you using with 6.6v 2200mah?

    I wonder what the runtimes are going 4S @ 1100mah. Do you have some kind of LVC for the A123's?

    Those Neumotors really interests me, esp the 1110/2.5D.

  14. #14
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    Yeah, at low voltage, I don't know that current draw is a big deal. I even tried it in my 10th scale slash and the 1200mah NiMH pack stuttered, but eventually got more top speed than the A123 pack.

    So, recently I've been bashing with 10th scale truck tires through tall grass. To get that working, I've used the tranny trick.
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...t=transmission

    I don't know what my final drive ratio

    Haven't used LVC for them yet. The LVC for A123's is about 2.2v per cell, and it's fairly obvious when voltage gets that low. When I move over to my MM, I'm going to set it to 9V just to make it brainless.

    Basically, until I install my MM, the jury is still out.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaDOOD
    So that 0.6v difference between A123 and NiMH is a noticeable difference in speed? I was hoping the 30C would make up for it. At least runtimes going parallel are great.

    What gearing are you using with 6.6v 2200mah?

    I wonder what the runtimes are going 4S @ 1100mah. Do you have some kind of LVC for the A123's?

    Those Neumotors really interests me, esp the 1110/2.5D.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaDOOD

    I wonder what the runtimes are going 4S @ 1100mah. Do you have some kind of LVC for the A123's?
    I got about 15min today on 4s 1100's, bumping the rev limit now and then.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Just got two packs of "Custom" A123 Racing batteries from Cheapbatterypacks.com. They are just drop shipped from A123 Racing. Not a bad thing of course, but if you can find A123 racing packs for cheaper, by all means.

    They fit but are SNUG. They come with deans whether you ask for bare wire or not. Going to try them out tomorrow. Going to see how they compare with the stock NiMH pack...

    ...by trying them both in my 1/10th scale slash with an 80amp motor and really tall gears...
    Do you even have a 1/16 Revo or Slash? If so you should be posting results for those runs not telling us how these work in your 1/10 Slash and what upgrades you're making to it. If you don't have a 1/16 then you are posting in the wrong forum...

  17. #17
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    here are the A123 packs I bought:
    https://www.tanicpacks.com/index.php...d4c3b23b65016c

    My finds are:
    with 2s, 1100mah - would not wheelie, but acceleration was move more controllable. Maybe the voltage was just not enough.
    with 4s 1100mah - wheelie on demand, fast as all get out. What can i say, a bashers dream
    with 2s 2200mah - would wheelie but then would taper off on speed due to lower voltage.

    These packs are quite the tight fit - But worth it because I was charging them almost fast as I was using them. At about 3-5c (5amps)

    All in all, a nice alternative to the LIPO.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lil Revo
    Do you even have a 1/16 Revo or Slash? If so you should be posting results for those runs not telling us how these work in your 1/10 Slash and what upgrades you're making to it. If you don't have a 1/16 then you are posting in the wrong forum...
    Do you even read this threads?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Do you even read this threads?
    I think he missed the part where you said "10th scale truck tires"

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Do you even read this threads?
    ...by trying them both in my 1/10th scale slash with an 80amp motor and really tall gears...
    So I recorded a bunch of film of my 1/10th scale slash with an 80-90 amp brushless motor, running a 5000mah 2S lipo (control), the 6 cell 1200mah NiMH and the 2S 1100mah LiFePo4 pack I got for my E16.
    I even tried it in my 10th scale slash and the 1200mah NiMH pack stuttered, but eventually got more top speed than the A123 pack.
    You sure do seem to mention your 1/10Scale Slash a lot. I barely saw any mention of 1/16 scale use. All of your info on big packs for 1/10 and smaller packs for 1/16 is jumbled all together. Just saying to clarify a bit more when you are talking about 1/10 scale and 1/16 scale!!
    Last edited by Lil Revo; 07-14-2009 at 05:56 PM.

  21. #21
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    quick question for anyone using A123 1100mah batterys:

    Whats the most you have put back in them? I ran down my set (4s) until truck stopped - cells measured 2.75v per cell and I putr back 1235 or so in each.

    The kicker is this is my 2nd set because they 1st set is dead from heat - the I found out they sent me 1450mah cells with 10c ratings on accident

    This last run they were too hot to hold, I suspect that I may still not have true A123 cells... darn it!!

    So I need to know if you can actuall get over 1100mah in an offical A123 18650 cell

  22. #22
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    I'd say something is amiss. While it's not uncommon to put in more than the capacity of the cell if it is completely drained, which, with LVC, is something we only talk about in theory. Since your cells are not completely drained and have, I am guessing here, more that 150mah of capacity left in them when they are at 2.75v per, AND you put in "1235mah" back, that sounds fishy.

    Heat sounds fishy, too. I have run my mini-revo's A123's in series in my 10th scale slash just to really tax them and they were only warm to the touch.

    This is guess work here. Really, you should open the shrinkwrap and take a look, or just send them back after you get a pack from a more reputable vendor.




    Quote Originally Posted by Tomeygun
    quick question for anyone using A123 1100mah batterys:

    Whats the most you have put back in them? I ran down my set (4s) until truck stopped - cells measured 2.75v per cell and I putr back 1235 or so in each.

    The kicker is this is my 2nd set because they 1st set is dead from heat - the I found out they sent me 1450mah cells with 10c ratings on accident

    This last run they were too hot to hold, I suspect that I may still not have true A123 cells... darn it!!

    So I need to know if you can actuall get over 1100mah in an offical A123 18650 cell

  23. #23
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    Lil revo is right.

    You are talking about testing the batteries to see how they compare in a 1/10 slash?

    This is the 1/16 forum those results don't matter to us.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    I'd say something is amiss. While it's not uncommon to put in more than the capacity of the cell if it is completely drained, which, with LVC, is something we only talk about in theory. Since your cells are not completely drained and have, I am guessing here, more that 150mah of capacity left in them when they are at 2.75v per, AND you put in "1235mah" back, that sounds fishy.

    Heat sounds fishy, too. I have run my mini-revo's A123's in series in my 10th scale slash just to really tax them and they were only warm to the touch.

    This is guess work here. Really, you should open the shrinkwrap and take a look, or just send them back after you get a pack from a more reputable vendor.
    Thats the kicker, when the 2nd set came, he warned that the cells would not have shrinkwrap due to that took up a few mm. So I looked and yes, these are bare shiny cells, no markings at all. Guess I will have to get some more A123 cells and test them for capaticy

  25. #25
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    You are both clueless. The mini-revo isn't a big enough load to really test batteries. Now take your criticism elsewhere. It's not constructive.

    Quote Originally Posted by klaze
    Lil revo is right.

    You are talking about testing the batteries to see how they compare in a 1/10 slash?

    This is the 1/16 forum those results don't matter to us.

  26. #26
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    What company is this? So I can avoid them completely.

    Cheapbatterypacks.com sent me packs STRAIGHT from "A123 Racing" as in drop shipped from the manufacturer. I don't like to promote companies, but considering your problems, I think it's best.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tomeygun
    Thats the kicker, when the 2nd set came, he warned that the cells would not have shrinkwrap due to that took up a few mm. So I looked and yes, these are bare shiny cells, no markings at all. Guess I will have to get some more A123 cells and test them for capaticy

  27. #27
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    I have been putting about 970-1040mah back into my A123's. My cells came from Black & Decker VPX tool packs
    My tranny case is stock :D

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    The most I've put back is in the 900's so < 1000. I have my voltage cutoff set for 3S Lipo

    Quote Originally Posted by buzzsaw 46
    I have been putting about 970-1040mah back into my A123's. My cells came from Black & Decker VPX tool packs

  29. #29
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    Looks like the LVC for 3s is letting you get about all these little guys have to give. I dont run an LVC so that explains the little extra mine are taking in.

    My ET data shows my cells dropping to 2.1v/cell under the 55+amp drain of the Revo doing back flips. They were holding 3.1v/cell during speed runs(early on in the run).
    My tranny case is stock :D

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by buzzsaw 46
    I have been putting about 970-1040mah back into my A123's. My cells came from Black & Decker VPX tool packs
    How low do you run them? I mean till they poop out and will barely move the truck?

  31. #31
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    I've mostly run 3S A123 with the ESC in NiMH mode. I just stop the truck when I notice the drop in power. I searched rcgroups forums and found a post where everydayflyer said you can run them until they can't move the car as long as you charge them immediately, so I stopped worrying about LVC. He said they only get damaged if they stay at low voltage for a long period of time. The cells prefer to be stored fully charged anyway, which is the best feature of A123.

  32. #32
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    The instructions that came with my pack said to store them at half charge. That's crazy inconvenient though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peowraaku
    I've mostly run 3S A123 with the ESC in NiMH mode. I just stop the truck when I notice the drop in power. I searched rcgroups forums and found a post where everydayflyer said you can run them until they can't move the car as long as you charge them immediately, so I stopped worrying about LVC. He said they only get damaged if they stay at low voltage for a long period of time. The cells prefer to be stored fully charged anyway, which is the best feature of A123.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomeygun
    How low do you run them? I mean till they poop out and will barely move the truck?

    I drive till they dump. They go over the edge very fast.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    The instructions that came with my pack said to store them at half charge. That's crazy inconvenient though.
    Thats odd, everything I've read says they like to be stored fully charged. It could be a holdover from LiPos. In fact, my Cellpro has a LiPo storage charge mode, and it specifically says in the manual that you do not need to do this for A123.

  35. #35
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    i dont no much about motor kv vs battery volts. but after read this thread it got me thinking about using 2s2p 2 cells in each battery tray in the mini slash or revo and then run a neumotor 1110-1y thats is 8400kv and a max of 7 volts ..so u wouldn't loose any speed and can run 6.6v and have the reliability of a123 cells what u guys think

  36. #36
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    I would go series on the A123's, reduce the Ir2 losses. Look for 3400-3700Kv
    My tranny case is stock :D

  37. #37
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    i run 2 2s 1100mah A123 cels i made for my Vendetta ST with either a parralel or serial connector....depends what I'm wanting that moment....speed or time....all with the stock gearing.

    However I'm using a Hobbywing/ezrun 35A esc as well....still getting enough power for wheelies, but I've turned down the timing and punch control, so that i don't kill my tranny just yet...

  38. #38
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    if anyone is still interested i could see how much the cells are....I'm making my own packs for about$12-14 per 2s pach....slightly higher cost depending on the connector(Deans, Traxxas) and balancing tabs as well....

  39. #39
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    i love my Life packs A123 from Max amps 1050 mah a piece run em in series and they fit perfectly in the Merv... does standing backflips and wheelies at almost any speed almost as fast as my NIMH packs in series but the nimh is faster top speed but after 2 top speed runs the nimh packs die off were the life packs just keep going run after run...
    V Twin Emaxx
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