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  1. #1
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    My Mini E-Revo Project

    Ok guys so I've had this thing for about 2 weeks and I'm loving it. Mechanically I havent broken anything so far... except the ESC. So while I'm waiting for my new ESC and motor I decided to start on the shoes:





    I went with the OFNA BBT Buggy Rear Dishes. They have a nice deep offset that gives it an overall wider stance. Next I went Proline Dirt Hawg Buggy Rears on all 4s. Perfect fit. I wanted a tire that would grip asphalt, do good in dirt, and have good wear. I wish OFNA made some nice molded foams for 1/10 buggy rears. The foams these come with feel cheap. Oh well. I mounted them but not glued yet. I can feel and see they are not even close to balanced. Here are some shots of them mounted:








    You can see the wider stance due to the offset. The tires might be a few mm narrower than the stocks but the offset make the truck about half an inch wider at the wheels. Oh yeah they look NICE!

    Ok I got my scale in the mail today... too bad it only weighs accurate to .1 ounce or within +- 5grams. Accurate enough. The stocks weighed out to about 62 grams ea totaling 248 grams. The DirtHawg/OFNA combo came out to about 74 grams ea totaling about 296g. Give or take a few grams it's roughly 1.6oz heavier for the new combo. Not much at all.

    As you can see the tires are about 1/4 inch taller than stock giving it more clearance. Thats good for me as I'm a basher. For the racers this might pose a problem as the COG is raised. But then you have a wider stance so they just might offset each other.

    Now the problem. The wheels are 12mm and fit perfectly, BUT, the hexes look to be a little too deep. Not good. There's only a few mm of axle to screw the lock nut on, unlike the stocks. I will try and put a few spacers on the axle side of the hex so the wheel hex does not touch steering block. Problem to that is it will make the threaded part of the axle even shorter for the nut to screw on. Maybe a mm or 2 spacers will do the trick. Hopefully there will be enough thread for the nut to securely fasten to. We'll find out tomorrow.

    Also tomorrow night after work I should have my Quark 65a Roadster ESC that I'll be putting in as well as my Neu 1112 1y 3900kv motor. It'll be a long night of tinkering but I will keep everybody informed with the project.

  2. #2
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    Coming along nicely! Those Ofna/Jammin wheels come in yellow/orange/black as well. Nitrohouse usually has them in stock and they are great to deal with. Do you know anyone with a lathe that could take a millimeter or two off the hex?
    That motor/ESC combo you are using would be my choice too. Already have my Quark Roadster 65a ESC. I have a Neu 1105 which is new and was intended for another project but I will probably try it out on this as soon as my Revo comes in....
    Please let us know how it works for you. It might end up being too powerful! Good batteries are gonna be a must or you will overload them and they'll get too hot trying to keep up with the amp draw of that motor. I'd recommend the Hyperion 1800mah VX series with 35C continuous (65C burst)

  3. #3
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    Also, I think these might work great on asphalt with those 2.2 rear buggy wheels.
    http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/produ...ecnumber=45859

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by morati
    Coming along nicely! Those Ofna/Jammin wheels come in yellow/orange/black as well. Nitrohouse usually has them in stock and they are great to deal with. Do you know anyone with a lathe that could take a millimeter or two off the hex?
    That motor/ESC combo you are using would be my choice too. Already have my Quark Roadster 65a ESC. I have a Neu 1105 which is new and was intended for another project but I will probably try it out on this as soon as my Revo comes in....
    Please let us know how it works for you. It might end up being too powerful! Good batteries are gonna be a must or you will overload them and they'll get too hot trying to keep up with the amp draw of that motor. I'd recommend the Hyperion 1800mah VX series with 35C continuous (65C burst)
    Yup my orange ones should be here tomorrow... I'm just waiting for my clear body and my white wing =)

    I wish I did know somebody with a lathe! That would be perfect if I could take 2mm off the outside part of the wheel and put 2 spacer in the back part and still have room on the axle to screw it down. Ahhh unfortunately I dont have those resources where I live now.

    I'm already a step ahead of you =) I have the Hyperion G3 VX 1600mah 3s being delivered tomorrow as well as the 2s that I will try to run in series for the speed runs. My main interest in the Quark was that it can handle up to 6s. Not saying that I am... but you never know. Hopefully with the added weight of the wheels, lipos, motor, and ESC will be a good addition and help keep it on the ground. I will keep you guys posted though!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by morati
    Also, I think these might work great on asphalt with those 2.2 rear buggy wheels.
    http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/produ...ecnumber=45859
    These would be perfect on road... but might not do too much when I hit the dirt. I might look into these for my speed runs though. Thanks

  6. #6
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    how about rear Anaconda tires for the bandit will they fit

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    I'll be watching here for your findings with this setup....
    BTW, I use Dirt Hawgs on my CRT .5 and they are great. However, the tall sidewalls have tendency to balloon at high speeds and I don't think you can use the strapping tape trick on the inside of the tire due to the ribbing on them. The Schumacher Road and Track tires have a much stiffer and lower profile sidewall (might be close to the overall diameter of the stock Revo tires) and they have a smooth inner circumference so you can tape the insides to further reduce "ballooning" for those high-speed passes!
    Good Luck!
    Last edited by morati; 06-30-2009 at 11:06 PM.

  8. #8
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    I completely forgot about Anacondas. They should fit. I'll look into those Schumachers too.

  9. #9
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    OK quick update. I got the wheels to fit. I used my dremel and took off about 2mm off of the inside part of the wheel. The whole hex still fits in, I just shortened the inside walls. This does not affect the depth at all, just took some plastic that goes around the hex. I wont have to use washers anymore.



    Since I had the dremel at work already I decided to start on the shock tower. With the dremel I took off about 2mm of plastic so the 52mm motor would fit.



    More to come tomorrow.
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    nice work man
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    I have the Hyperion G3 VX 1600mah 3s being delivered tomorrow as well as the 2s that I will try to run in series for the speed runs.
    Those 3S 1600 VX's are going to be too tall to fit in there. The 3S 1600 CX's will fit though.

  12. #12
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    Good thing you mentioned this. I grabbed the specs off of the allerc website and they are a direct distributor for Hyperion. Their spec sheet said 21.3mm height for the 1600 vx 3s. Those specs are pulled directly from the hyperion site. I Googled the lipos and found other places that carried it and a bunch of them showed 25mm. Ouch! I called Allerc and spoke with Mike over there. he was kind enough to grab a caliper and measure the pack for me. Bad news, not 21.3mm. Good news they're not 25mm either. He measured about 23.7mm. Basically it's taller by 3.5mm or so. The battery compartment is plastic so I'm not worried about it. If it doesnt fit I was told I can return it. I'm definitely not going 2s nor do I want to drop to a CX as the Nue 1112 can pull up to 100a on spikes. I'll find out soon enough... they're sitting by my front door right now while I'm at work =(
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  13. #13
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    Ok got some goodies in the mail today:



    1st thing, batteries. Got a pair of Hyperion G3 VX 1600mah 3s 35c lipos. Now I got these because I thought it would be a perfect fit as Hyperion states them as 21.3mm height. Wrong. They are actually 23.5mm. A lot of other sites have them for 25mm. Truth is they're 23.5mm for those looking into these. I've heard nothing but good about the G3's so I decided to give them a try.






    Yes they did manage to fit. They are in there pretty snug though. Remember people, the trays are plastic so they will give a few mm of play. The battery does not have to be exactly 20.3mm or whatever it is. Closing the lid is another thing. I can close the lid and it latches on tight. As you can see in the pics the wires are a problem so it looks like I'm hacking the battery tray to make some room for the wires to come out. No biggie.



    As you can see the Neu 1112 is 4mm longer. Not a problem. All you need is to file 2mm off the shock tower and you're good. You will also need to shorten the shaft as the Neu shaft is pretty long. Again no problem. The screws on the Neu are 2.5mm so I had to make a quick run to my LHS for those. But so far so good. Everything looks promising. I'll work on what I can tonight and put more pics up when I'm done.
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  14. #14
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    Thanks for the update.....Been checking here all day for news on your project. Do you think the NEU 1110 would have been a better choice fit wise as it is about 5-6mm shorter? Perhaps in a low kv version as then you could have run 2 smaller 2S packs in series along with your Roadster 65a ESC....
    Oh well, you'll be able to run those 3S packs in parallel now for extra long runtimes!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Ok got some goodies in the mail today:



    1st thing, batteries. Got a pair of Hyperion G3 VX 1600mah 3s 35c lipos. Now I got these because I thought it would be a perfect fit as Hyperion states them as 21.3mm height. Wrong. They are actually 23.5mm. A lot of other sites have them for 25mm. Truth is they're 23.5mm for those looking into these. I've heard nothing but good about the G3's so I decided to give them a try.






    Yes they did manage to fit. They are in there pretty snug though. Remember people, the trays are plastic so they will give a few mm of play. The battery does not have to be exactly 20.3mm or whatever it is. Closing the lid is another thing. I can close the lid and it latches on tight. As you can see in the pics the wires are a problem so it looks like I'm hacking the battery tray to make some room for the wires to come out. No biggie.



    As you can see the Neu 1112 is 4mm longer. Not a problem. All you need is to file 2mm off the shock tower and you're good. You will also need to shorten the shaft as the Neu shaft is pretty long. Again no problem. The screws on the Neu are 2.5mm so I had to make a quick run to my LHS for those. But so far so good. Everything looks promising. I'll work on what I can tonight and put more pics up when I'm done.
    Man I cant wait on the results and hopefully video of this project!!!
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cch1978
    Man I cant wait on the results and hopefully video of this project!!!
    Well, my ESC wont be here until tomorrow. I'm set back right now. My soldering skills are blow average and I managed to drop one of the bullet connectors down the drain. The spare I had I spilled solder on and would not fit the female connector anymore. So off to the hobby shop again tomorrow to buy an $8 pack of connectors that have 2 males and 10 female plugs. Doesnt make sense why they do that. Anyways, the batteries are all charged up and balanced with the Deans connectors. I'm about to start on glueing the tires but I might just put that aside for a minute because I want to put the street tires on the orange rims and some bowties on the white ones. Now I'm debating if I should mount the motor on with a missing connector. I'm so impatient. If all goes well I should have some video by Friday morning. Oh and I wont be using the speed pinion on this setup (it cracked) I'll be using the stock 28t pinion. The motor should be more than powerful enough
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  17. #17
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    Well I cant wait to see it Friday....btw how long did it take you to get your motor from castle?
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cch1978
    Well I cant wait to see it Friday....btw how long did it take you to get your motor from castle?
    I didnt order through Castle. I went to Neu's main site and I looked at their distributors. Found one in FL with this in stock! Ordered Monday and got here today.




    Had to do a little more dremel work on the shock tower. I might have sanded too much as I seen the screw starting to show through the plastic. Even funnier is I only needed to dremel the top part of the shock tower since the bottom of the motor doesnt touch the chassis. Oh well. One thing I did notice is that the magnets are super strong. I can hardly turn the shaft! Hopefully the drag brake settings will fix that. I should have things working by this time tomorrow.
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  19. #19
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    Looking real mean mr, how much heavier is the Neu motor then stock?
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    Not much... around 145g. So around 12-13g more.
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    LiqrSicc, i borrowed, may i ask can you messure between the 2 red lines ? the little "mount" for the ESC, what height is that 1mm? 2? or more?



    would be real glad for it

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  22. #22
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    No problem... looks like just a tad over 2mm. I cant get any more precise as I'm only using a plastic ruler =)
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  23. #23
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    Any updates, cant wait!!!
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    Is the NUE shaft keyed?

    Caution, the shaft is CASE HARDENED. The surface of the shaft is a hardened material where as the shaft, its self, is not. Any modification to the shaft will weaken it. If you need to key the shaft for the setscrew, do not make a flat surface. Find out EXACTLY where the set screw will interface the shaft and put a tiny nick in the shaft. The smaller the better. If the color of the metal does not change and you still have enough of a nick for the setscrew to lock in the pinion, good job. If the color changes (meaning you've cut through the case hardened layer) STOP! You've already gone too far and you should stop while you are ahead.

    Ideally, you should only have a nick as big as the surface at the bottom of the setscrew.

    Alternatively, you can use "green" lock tite. You'll have to remove the pinion with heat if you choose this route.

    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Ok got some goodies in the mail today:
    As you can see the Neu 1112 is 4mm longer. Not a problem. All you need is to file 2mm off the shock tower and you're good. You will also need to shorten the shaft as the Neu shaft is pretty long. Again no problem. The screws on the Neu are 2.5mm so I had to make a quick run to my LHS for those. But so far so good. Everything looks promising. I'll work on what I can tonight and put more pics up when I'm done.
    Last edited by coreyfro; 07-02-2009 at 04:38 PM.

  25. #25
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    Cant find my temp gun!!! Just did a few runs and the power is INSANE! I will get video later since its 100+ outside and I dont have a cameraman. In the meantime here's a little teaser =)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gn97C9qVrt4
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Is the NUE shaft keyed?

    Caution, the shaft is CASE HARDENED. The surface of the shaft is a hardened material where as the shaft, its self, is not. Any modification to the shaft will weaken it. If you need to key the shaft for the setscrew, do not make a flat surface. Find out EXACTLY where the set screw will interface the shaft and put a tiny nick in the shaft. The smaller the better. If the color of the metal does not change and you still have enough of a nick for the setscrew to lock in the pinion, good job. If the color changes (meaning you've cut through the case hardened layer) STOP! You've already gone too far and you should stop while you are ahead.

    Ideally, you should only have a nick as big as the surface at the bottom of the setscrew.

    Alternatively, you can use "green" lock tite. You'll have to remove the pinion with heat if you choose this route.
    I wish I knew this earlier I already sanded one side of the shaft! Hopefully it wont affect it. I wonder if they sell replacement shafts...
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    Exclamation OK guys here it is!!!

    1st test run of the monster. 60mph? Lol, it could probably do that going reverse. Now I just need to find my temp gun and rader (not using my iPhone for that this time)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysDDkG_712o
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    1st test run of the monster. 60mph? Lol, it could probably do that going reverse. Now I just need to find my temp gun and rader (not using my iPhone for that this time)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysDDkG_712o
    AWESOME! Glad everything turned out well for you! I think you're gonna need a center diff and some road tires to help you tame that BEAST...
    Curious.....What kind of temps are you getting on the ESC/Motor/Batts?

  29. #29
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    What are those orange dish wheels you posted a picture of? Have you mounted them up yet? If so, how do they fit? Pictures are always good.
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  30. #30
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    Look really nice man!

    motor seem torquey

    And it did looked like it could do 60mph too.



    Good job
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  31. #31
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    Thanks guys! I just found my temp gun so as soon as it drops to like 85-90 outside I'll make some runs and get the temps.

    The orange wheels are the same as the white ones I have on. OFNA 1/12 BBT wheels. You have to do some dremel work on the inside hub to get it ti fit without binding.

    I may have bitten of more than I can chew. The torque is crazy! I'm a little scared to push it past half throttle. I will push it to the limits this weekend when I go camping though!
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    Quote Originally Posted by coreyfro
    Is the NUE shaft keyed?

    Caution, the shaft is CASE HARDENED. The surface of the shaft is a hardened material where as the shaft, its self, is not. Any modification to the shaft will weaken it. If you need to key the shaft for the setscrew, do not make a flat surface. Find out EXACTLY where the set screw will interface the shaft and put a tiny nick in the shaft. The smaller the better. If the color of the metal does not change and you still have enough of a nick for the setscrew to lock in the pinion, good job. If the color changes (meaning you've cut through the case hardened layer) STOP! You've already gone too far and you should stop while you are ahead.

    Ideally, you should only have a nick as big as the surface at the bottom of the setscrew.

    Alternatively, you can use "green" lock tite. You'll have to remove the pinion with heat if you choose this route.
    Well ran a heat treating gig for almost 8 years, you can not visibly see the case depth with out cutting all the way through and the cut end would have to be polished and etched with nitric solution. When we case harden especially that thin of a part the case is pretty deep a 10 minute soak at 1575 degrees will give it a approx .007 case on each side for total of .014 case depth. The core as we call it will be hard too just not as hard believe me its tough. grinding a flat would not hurt the shaft. And for those who want to know case hardening is simply heat 1575+ degrees with a endothermic atmosphere and introducing NH3 (anyhydrous ammonia) and natural gas to the part so no you cant go hardening your metal parts at home.


    Ok on another note sweet ride man I am liking it whats the total cost in aftermarket so far?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nolimitzr1
    Well ran a heat treating gig for almost 8 years, you can not visibly see the case depth with out cutting all the way through and the cut end would have to be polished and etched with nitric solution. When we case harden especially that thin of a part the case is pretty deep a 10 minute soak at 1575 degrees will give it a approx .007 case on each side for total of .014 case depth. The core as we call it will be hard too just not as hard believe me its tough. grinding a flat would not hurt the shaft. And for those who want to know case hardening is simply heat 1575+ degrees with a endothermic atmosphere and introducing NH3 (anyhydrous ammonia) and natural gas to the part so no you cant go hardening your metal parts at home.


    Ok on another note sweet ride man I am liking it whats the total cost in aftermarket so far?
    Thanks thats good to know! Well, I spent more of what I wanted to spend which is usually the case. Lipos 40 a pop x 2, wheels and tires about 35, another set of wheels 8, Neu motor 135, Quark ESC 80, connectors 30, other misc stuff and shipping and taxes probably another 50. Not too bad compared to my other projects I've done. Well worth it in my opinion.
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    Well got to run it in cooler 80f weather.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJUi-VHeYVo

    I ran it for another 5-6 minutes after the the video and got 115-120 temps on the motor and ESC. Not bad
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Well got to run it in cooler 80f weather.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJUi-VHeYVo

    I ran it for another 5-6 minutes after the the video and got 115-120 temps on the motor and ESC. Not bad
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  36. #36
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    The point of case hardening is to simply make the metal harder that the hardware it is interfacing. In this case, a steel shaft interfacing a steel screw. If both have equal hardness, then both will be deformed. If the shaft is harder, even if it is just the outside of the shaft, the shaft will endure. It's not completely binary, but the point is to preserve the expensive part while sacrificing the cheap one.

    If you are saying that a brushless motor hasn't the torque to deform steel, you need to spend a little more time with a BRUSHED dremel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nolimitzr1
    Well ran a heat treating gig for almost 8 years, you can not visibly see the case depth with out cutting all the way through and the cut end would have to be polished and etched with nitric solution. When we case harden especially that thin of a part the case is pretty deep a 10 minute soak at 1575 degrees will give it a approx .007 case on each side for total of .014 case depth. The core as we call it will be hard too just not as hard believe me its tough. grinding a flat would not hurt the shaft. And for those who want to know case hardening is simply heat 1575+ degrees with a endothermic atmosphere and introducing NH3 (anyhydrous ammonia) and natural gas to the part so no you cant go hardening your metal parts at home.


    Ok on another note sweet ride man I am liking it whats the total cost in aftermarket so far?

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    Man, the acceleration on that is so fluid, it's creepy...

  38. #38
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    Nice mr, looks like you have endless of powa!! RAW powa!!!

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  39. #39
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    Well I know not to get that motor(too much power). On the other hand I bet you could run it on 2s all day long with no temp problems. Great job.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Well got to run it in cooler 80f weather.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJUi-VHeYVo

    I ran it for another 5-6 minutes after the the video and got 115-120 temps on the motor and ESC. Not bad
    That's just plain sick!! Great job indeed...
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