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  1. #1
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    What parts would you like to see improved or fixed

    I know this is the 1st production run of the truck and I'm impressed. I've had the least problems with this compared to my other minis/micros. This is what I think I'd like to see worked on and maybe fixed:

    Diff covers - the diff itself is aluminum, good job. But the end covers are plastic and held by 3 tiny screws. With the power from the brushless the plastic can easily be loosened and stripped by the screw.

    Drive axles - only had the problem once when the it popped out. Easy fix as I just popped it back in. Hopefully the steel axles come out soon. Should solve the issue.

    Wheelie bar - wheelies are a great novelty, but it nicely wears your wing down.

    Other than that I really have no gripes. Anybody else care to chime in?
    MBX6T CC 1520
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  2. #2
    RC Competitor
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    Jun 2008
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    Front skid plate

    I have broken the front skid on my slash... The pins holding the a-arms in came out a few times and i had to make new ones. It took me a little while to realize that it was because the skid plate had cracked right at the bend and was not holding the pins in anymore. The bumper had bent downward in a nose heavy landing and it pushes against the skit plate. I solved the problem by making a piece to go in front of the blue aluminum plate that the pins go through. It uses the single bolt that holds that plate on, and has two small indents for the pins to go into. The plate locks the pins in without the skid plate which has since broken completely off.

    I know that they do make an aluminum skid plate, and that would have also solved the problem, but by using a different method to hold the front pins in, the skid getting broken or bent wouldn't matter. I'll post some pictures of the plate later

  3. #3
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    Top of my list has to be the ability to use 1/10 servos in both kits. On the Slash, the front bumper should fasten to the chasis. It just hangs there.

  4. #4
    shocks everything about them, they don't hold shock oil, the threads on the bodys don't hold the retainer. the shock bottoms on mine have all come loose, and won't hold unless I use plumbers tape.

    plastic turnbuckles. they are so loose. I have already replaced mine with medal ones.

    the stock servo. I had a tooth breakout with the first few days. so I had to replace that too.


    I also wish traxxas made a differnt compound of slash tire so I can get something that sticks. the stock slash tires almost feel like they are a plastic/rubber combination. they are too hard!


    other than that I love my mini slash.

  5. #5
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    i've broke- chassis, rear bulkhead, front body post, bumper, wing, right front lower a arm, so far.

    i am hard on it though
    4Sale: 3.3 Trans/Opti-drive, EZStart

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
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    Kingsport,TN
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    stronger front bumper and e clips to hold the pins so far thats all I can think of for my slash
    TMaxx1.5with a 3.3 Engine, Stampede,Nito Rustler

  7. #7
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    New rear and front hubs..so you can ADJUST away the slop that will come after a few packs in the pivotballs....now they are snapped in to place..e joke if you ask me... just check the vendetta ST...
    TpParts RcXtreme | Xray XT8e 2019

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
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    Wow, didn't know we had so many problems. At least we know for a fact the aluminum shocks are made. Aluminum skidplates we can get at New Era. Turnbuckles we can get adjustable ones from Lunsford. Servos we can get some nice Hitec metal gear micro servos. Aluminum bulkheads and carriers would be nice too
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  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Mar 2008
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    But you have to use all the stock shock parts for the metal ones.So it might still leak useing the plastic bottoms.Also it would be nice if traxxas made the rear aarms for the mini that made the revo longer.

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas P
    New rear and front hubs..so you can ADJUST away the slop that will come after a few packs in the pivotballs....now they are snapped in to place..e joke if you ask me... just check the vendetta ST...
    +1 Mine developed slop wayy too prematurely, otherwise no other gripes

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfampede
    stronger front bumper and e clips to hold the pins so far thats all I can think of for my slash
    For e-clips try alittle of this to keep them on.

    http://www.eclecticproducts.com/shoegoo.htm

  12. #12
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    man after reading im definitely waiting to buy one of these. Though i knew it would be a bad choice to buy the newest hottest thing when it first came out.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadow21
    man after reading im definitely waiting to buy one of these. Though i knew it would be a bad choice to buy the newest hottest thing when it first came out.
    No these trucks really are very tough trucks.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bosco72
    But you have to use all the stock shock parts for the metal ones.So it might still leak useing the plastic bottoms.Also it would be nice if traxxas made the rear aarms for the mini that made the revo longer.
    When these get in here's one option.
    http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...INI%20E%20REVO

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
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    pin retainer

    Here is the piece I made to keep the front pins in...

    pic1:
    pic2:
    pic3:

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadow21
    man after reading im definitely waiting to buy one of these. Though i knew it would be a bad choice to buy the newest hottest thing when it first came out.
    They are really well made trucks regardless of the bugs of being the 1st production. You wouldn't get any other mini/micro to perform like this out the box. Breaking parts and improving is just part of the hobby.
    MBX6T CC 1520
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torkrench
    Here is the piece I made to keep the front pins in...

    pic1:
    pic2:
    pic3:
    Wow, that sucks... have you thought about trying the aluminum New Era ones?
    MBX6T CC 1520
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  18. #18
    RC Competitor
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    I am thinking about it, but I may just make my own or replace it with the stock plastic skid plate. No matter what I do I will leave the piece I made on the truck since it doesn't interfere with anything and will hold better than even the aluminum skid. The whole problem is that whichever one you use will stop you from running if the skid plate breaks. Right now I run without the skid plate, and most of the time it's not a problem.

  19. #19
    RC poster
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    I haven't broken anything yet. The body posts are getting thin due to it sliding on the roof a lot, but that's my fault.

    I'd like to see more wheel/tire combos than anything.

  20. #20
    RC Racer
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    there 12mm hex you can run pretty much any tire that fits under the body
    i need a 3.3 for my cf rustler

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
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    chassis, rear bulk, and rear a arm, IMO the rear of the chassis should be a little thicker

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redman65
    When these get in here's one option.
    http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...INI%20E%20REVO
    The bottom plastic clip on the shock, will still have to clip on with those. It may help with the top cap, and adjusters, just not where it snaps over the seals for the shafts.

  23. #23
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    agreed, the plastic shock is a joke, I ran it once gently on pavement for less than 10 minutes, and found the shocks leaking badly, one of the rear spring retainer stripped. The truck track left so badly but there is no adjustment other than using the tx trim. If I knew the quality of these mini I would just stick with my E-maxx and rustler.
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. icepick832's Avatar
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    Sure is more than just the TX trim to adjust the steering. There is the pivot balls, tighten or loosen top and bottom an equal number of turn to adjust toe, instead of using the trim, leave that at zero and adjust where the servo horn is on the spline. Pretty much the same as the big brother, cept push rods, and those can be upgraded. I havent broken anything at all, just had a leaky shock, which is now fixed. I think they are just fine, a little more steel or aluminum would have been nice, but now this means I can upgrade to my liking.

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