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  1. #1
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    indestructible E-Revo Brushless: possibile?

    With $1000 can I find extra-strong that makes my E-Revo Brushless resistant to ANY acceleration/deceleration/crash? does someone sell parts stronger than steel or of bigger size than stock?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Ummm...what? The stock Revo is extremely durable, and no matter how much money you put into it, it can still be damaged. Save your money and learn to drive better.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  3. #3
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    send me the 1k and I will send you just the thing you need












  4. #4
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    RPM A-arms are a very affordable and cheap upgrade. I would recommend their parts to you in a heartbeat. If you want to go to a more extreme route, then look at flexTek RC. I have heard great things about their a-arms.

    There are other great manufactures out there that make parts, but none of them will make an indestructible truck.

    -Brett
    4wd Sportmaxx 3.3
    E-Revo - Mamba Monster - Neu 4s

  5. #5
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    Buy a $2000 Supermaxx. your 1/2 way there.lol flextec arms flex and bend your titanium pins they flex too much. Rpm is your best bet and alot cheaper.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    A full-blown Supermaxx costs way more than $2k, I know, I have built a few...but he wants a Revo.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by carraig042
    RPM A-arms are a very affordable and cheap upgrade. I would recommend their parts to you in a heartbeat. If you want to go to a more extreme route, then look at flexTek RC. I have heard great things about their a-arms.

    There are other great manufactures out there that make parts, but none of them will make an indestructible truck.

    -Brett
    300 dollar a arms thats crazy.
    ⓘ Šⓐⓝⓣ ⓣⓗⓘⓝⓚ ⓞⓕ ⓐⓝⓨ ⓣⓗⓘⓝⓖ ⓖⓞⓞⓓ ⓣⓞ ⓦⓡⓘⓖⓗⓣ ⓗⓔⓡⓔ

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    A full-blown Supermaxx costs way more than $2k, I know, I have built a few...but he wants a Revo.
    Prove it!. If he want indestuctible, SM is as close as you can get. But hitting a wall @ 60mph will destroy anything.
    Last edited by Tolemar; 08-03-2009 at 08:02 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Prove what? It is proven that SMs are as close to unbreakable as it gets, but he wants a Revo, not a Maxx.

    UE Lightning chassis: $700
    UE VBS: $650 ($750 with Ti skids)
    UE 8-Spider diffs: $150
    UE 16mm Racer-X: $350
    UE 8mm CVDs: $200
    UE Supershocks: $60

    That's $2,110 and it's just the backbone...you still need wheels, tires, hexes, transmission, OTB transmission gears, ESC, motor, LiPos, body, pillow-balls, hinge-pins, Strobe slipper, Strobe braces, Strobe limiters, etc., etc..
    Last edited by Revoš; 08-03-2009 at 08:45 PM.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  10. #10
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    RPM arms and punch control set at 70%.. its pretty strong.. just pop a rear body mount now and then when I land hard on the spoiler.

  11. #11
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    The only thing I really ever break are driveshafts, and I break those relatively often. I have my slipper as loose as I can get it without slipping and my punch control is set to 90%.

    Would summit shafts work better? CVDs?

    ~asifjahmed
    E-Revo Brushless Edition | Slash w/ Waterproof VXL

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    UE Lightning chassis: $700 OTB transmission gears

  13. #13
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    I love my steel shafts on my erevo. I have had them for a month now with my punch at 100% and they hold up to anything. However, I don't do standing backflips all day long like some people on here...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by superleggera222
    I love my steel shafts on my erevo. I have had them for a month now with my punch at 100% and they hold up to anything. However, I don't do standing backflips all day long like some people on here...
    they are good to control the torque, but if you jump... they are junk, i broke 3 in a couple of month, 10ft high, 20/22ft long... this is the result



    i'm thinking to switch to summit shaft.. rpm a-arms all around, lunsford turnbuckles and pushrods..
    too strange to live, to weird to die

  15. #15
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    just stick stock shafts you can get new ones onebay cheap as in 15.00-20.00 for all 4 and they last fine for me

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rusteh101
    I know, crazy, but the UE Lightning is very hard to find, because there were so few made...when you do find one, it will cost you a minimum of $700, USED! The OTB GenIII E-Maxx gears are a little easier to find, but still around $300 or so. The nitro OTB gear-set is easier to find, and only $150, because there were more T-Maxx OTB gear-sets made than there were GenIII E-Maxx OTB gear-sets made. Then there's the infamous OTB Infinity full transmission gearset, which is $600-$800 depending on new or used...there were only 7 Infinity sets made, I think.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  17. #17
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    It will still brake over time no matter what you get wear and tear will set in at some point how soon all depends on how you drive it

  18. #18
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    Titanium has a yield strength of 830 MPa comparable to that of medium-low grade steel. Why do noone make parts in para-aramid (Kevlar, Twaron, etc.) that have a yield strength of 3620 MPa?

  19. #19
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    well all parts would have to be made from the same stuff or you would just end up braking the one thing that was weeker plus price for a revo made of that would probly be like 3000.00 and i know i would never aford that for a rc truck

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by m.stealth
    Titanium has a yield strength of 830 MPa comparable to that of medium-low grade steel. Why do noone make parts in para-aramid (Kevlar, Twaron, etc.) that have a yield strength of 3620 MPa?
    Because creating parts using kevlar is different than setting a block of aluminum or titanium in a mill and walking away. It's a lot more involved making a part out of threads/strands that is still strong where you need it to be. Especially considering the holes for hinge pins and what not.

    You'd have to sell a set of suspension arms for several thousand dollars to make up your design and production costs in any reasonable amount of time. but I am sure if you could find several hundred people to buy them you could lower the price 20-30%.

    Moral of the story is don't be fooled on how strong raw materials are in a lab. It means nothing really until you consider the application in which it will be used.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    I know, crazy, but the UE Lightning is very hard to find, because there were so few made...when you do find one, it will cost you a minimum of $700, USED! The OTB GenIII E-Maxx gears are a little easier to find, but still around $300 or so. The nitro OTB gear-set is easier to find, and only $150, because there were more T-Maxx OTB gear-sets made than there were GenIII E-Maxx OTB gear-sets made. Then there's the infamous OTB Infinity full transmission gearset, which is $600-$800 depending on new or used...there were only 7 Infinity sets made, I think.
    I am pretty sure OTB didnt make e-maxx tranny gears Ultramaxx did. Personally I like the g-maxx chassis better for racing purposes because of it low cog. (lower than a revo) The lightning is really rare like you said but I have seen them go on the bay for ~ $400. Youd definatly get a better deal one a complete truck instead of peicing it together.Lets see some pics of your full blown supermaxx revo1.
    Last edited by Tolemar; 08-04-2009 at 05:33 PM.

  22. #22
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    Yea revo one that thing dose sound sweet i would like to see what they look like just cause i hear they are so tuff



    Ohhh and would love to see pics of the twin-turbo 335ci (305ci TPI based) 1987 IROC-Z that is a daily-driver it sounds like a one of a kind head turrner
    Last edited by freelife04239; 08-04-2009 at 05:41 PM.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Tolemar, you could get OTB GenIII gears for the E-Maxx transmission, but like the Infinity T-Maxx gear-set, there weren't that many made.

    freelife, I can't get pics of the IROC-Z right now, because it's in my Sister's garage, and I'm not going all the way across town just to snap some pics...so I will take a couple next time I am over there.

    Here's my Thunder SM: Loaded with every single UE part except VBS.



    Here's my Gorillamaxx SM: Everything is brand-new except the HCR skids. It has 16mm Racer-X with set-backs and hi-impacts (single-shock). As soon as I find a new VBS kit I will finish the build.





    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  24. #24
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    NO. Period, end of story.

  25. #25
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    that is sweet but wheres the full size car

  26. #26
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    Well Chad Once again OTB or benighs was his name on UE did not make gears for the emaxx tranny aka utramaxxed gears. A guy named microwebtech on UE made them. Benighs did help microwebtech out with the special brass idler gears in the 3rd gen sets though. I dont think you will ever find a "NEW" VBS at least not at a good price. That G-maxx look just like mine except for the VBS lol.

    Actually It is almost exactly like mine now because my vbs is on the completly full blown Supermaxx now, I should of never sold my other vbs. I am just finishing up the g-maxx now cant wait to try the CC MMM out on 6s or any s for that matter.

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tolemar
    Benighs did help microwebtech out with the special brass idler gears in the 3rd gen sets though.
    Oh, ok...I was close, heh! Anyway, nice looking gSM!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  28. #28
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    It does look awesome with the vbs on it . Too bad I took it off for the Nitro SM.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    Oh, ok...I was close, heh! Anyway, nice looking gSM!
    Hence my " " response. It wasn't to do with the price, it was trying to put OTB gears on a lightning. I'm familiar with UE products, the only part which avoided me was VBS.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by asifjahmed
    The only thing I really ever break are driveshafts, and I break those relatively often. I have my slipper as loose as I can get it without slipping and my punch control is set to 90%.

    Would summit shafts work better? CVDs?

    ~asifjahmed
    I'm pretty sure a "slipper" is meant to have some "slip" LOL Could this be your issue.... heh Slipper slips = does't stretch your shafts or snap them..
    I love you MAN! Need a hug?

  31. #31
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    #1 RPM true tracks, arms don't break, knuckles are great, no rear adjustment to break (turnbuckles are pulled w/ the true tracks reducing weight as well)
    #2 Red or Black aluminum rods and turnbuckles, A TON stronger than stock and again reduces weight
    #3 RPM front arms (if all you do is bash, I'd stick w/ stock for racing (less flex, more predictable)
    #4 Increase weight of shock oils to 70wt and use the variable rate shock kit. This not only improves handling it will help reduce breakage by keeping chassis slap, or in the e-revo's case bulk head slap to a minimum.
    #5 Single arm conversion w/ single servo - reduces weight further
    #6 Steering mods - this will help you control your truck better and avoid more accidents (free as well)
    #7 The next most common break point will be the front knuckles as they take a ton of abuse so upgrade to the Tekno's or the RD Racing knuckles.
    #8 Slipper adjustment (free) if your slipper is too tight you will stretch and burn through shafts pretty fast
    #9 Keep working on driving skills and run the right tires for your environment.


    PS there are other cool mods, but those are the ones to make the e-revo more bullet proof...
    I love you MAN! Need a hug?

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by asifjahmed
    The only thing I really ever break are driveshafts, and I break those relatively often. I have my slipper as loose as I can get it without slipping and my punch control is set to 90%.

    Would summit shafts work better? CVDs?

    ~asifjahmed
    I agree with 8ight-e...the whole purpose of the slipper is to protect the drivetrain, by being able to slip a little, which absorbs shock and impacts to the driveline. If you have your slipper set not to slip, you are going to break parts, period...and adding stronger axles will only move the weak-link somewhere else and cause you to start breaking diffs or transmission gears.

    Adjust your slipper correctly and you will no longer break axles.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ight-e
    #1 RPM true tracks, arms don't break, knuckles are great, no rear adjustment to break (turnbuckles are pulled w/ the true tracks reducing weight as well)
    #2 Red or Black aluminum rods and turnbuckles, A TON stronger than stock and again reduces weight
    #3 RPM front arms (if all you do is bash, I'd stick w/ stock for racing (less flex, more predictable)
    #4 Increase weight of shock oils to 70wt and use the variable rate shock kit. This not only improves handling it will help reduce breakage by keeping chassis slap, or in the e-revo's case bulk head slap to a minimum.
    #5 Single arm conversion w/ single servo - reduces weight further
    #6 Steering mods - this will help you control your truck better and avoid more accidents (free as well)
    #7 The next most common break point will be the front knuckles as they take a ton of abuse so upgrade to the Tekno's or the RD Racing knuckles.
    #8 Slipper adjustment (free) if your slipper is too tight you will stretch and burn through shafts pretty fast
    #9 Keep working on driving skills and run the right tires for your environment.


    PS there are other cool mods, but those are the ones to make the e-revo more bullet proof...
    Very interesting, thanks!

    Just one question because english is not my first language and I didn't understand it: what's the slipper?

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The thing the big black spur gear is attached to.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

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