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  1. #1
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    Question Best way for BL-Conversion (Motor Mount)

    Hi!

    I want to convert my Revo3.3 to Brushless, with MMM and 4S or 6S LiPo...
    Now I'm thinking about the best way to put the Motor in... I heard, the E-Maxx Tranny would match, does the E-Revo Tranny also? What do I have to change on the Chassis to put these Trannys in?

    And I found the Motor Mount from RC-Monsters to assamble at the same Position the TRX3.3 was.

    What way would you choose, new Tranny or RC-Monsters Mount?

    Or what do you think about an aluminium angle instead of the RC-Monsters Mount? Would that work well?

    I've also seen the DropIn-MotorMount from TeknoRC, but this one is way to expensive and I don't want a Clutch Bell anymore...

    Greetings from Germany,
    Mig369

  2. #2
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    if you want to find info on the e-revo tranny in the 3.3 talk to 8ight-e. For general converson info talk to revo1. but from all the research i have done the tekno mount isnt very good because of the clutch/mechanical brake. so if you do go with the stock tranny do this: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ht=locked+gear and use the rc-monster mount. Imo the e-revo tranny and moor mount is the best way to do it!
    An old friend.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    If you want to keep the nitro chassis and transmission (like me), install a FOC into the transmission and lock it into 2nd gear, and run the RC-Monster motor-mount (like me). IMO this is the best nitro to brushless setup. I also custom-made my own battery tray, ESC tray, Rx tray, and motor-mount brace out of carbon-fiber, and now run the full carbon-fiber Vantage Racing Revo 3.3 chassis. TO me, I like nitro conversions better, but there is another option for you.

    You can also buy an E-Revo chassis and transmission, then swap everything over from your nitro chassis to the E-Revo chassis, and have an actual BL E-Revo.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  4. #4
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    The e-revo transmission will fit but requires a little bit of work but is worth it in my opinion (just completed it and getting pictures up when I get home). The emaxx one i believe is a direct drop in but it puts the motor up way to high. I actually started with a E and then converted to the aluminum chassis of the 3.3 because I was tired of the flexing i was getting with the plastic chassis (not the way to go).
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  5. #5
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    To me it depends on what your going to do with the truck which way you should go. I have s 3.3 and an e-revo(brushed) and I'm planning on going brushless soon and I was just going to drop a new esc/motor in my e-revo untill I started jumping it on my new ramp. My nitro handles landings great and it's set in the middle holes on the arms. My e-revo is in the inner most holes and IMO gets way to much chassis slap on the ground. I know some is needed but when you land on all 4 wheels and the chassis slaps so hard you hear it and it bounces 6inches off the ground it's to much. I run silver/blue with vdk in offroad position and 50k oil. Anything other than jumping I like the e chassis but for jumping I'm converting my nitro

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I hope you're not running 50k oil in your shocks, heh, that's 50000wt!

    Just messing with you, I know you meant 50wt.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  7. #7
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    So both the E-Revo Tranny and the RC-Monsters mount are good possibilities...
    Gonna think about what solution I will choose, thanks for your help

    afterdarkgames,
    I'm very interested in those Pics, looking forward to see them^^ Didn't even find any Pics of the 3.3 with E-Revo-Tranny...

  8. #8
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    Pics of a e-revo tranny on a 3.3. it barely fits and a hole must be cut and a front e-revo drive shaft have to be cut down to make fit. Motor is easily removable. Weight balance is 57 front and 43 rear and dead 50/50 side to side. Lower tray is a flat piece of 6x12 aluminum hung off of the chassis by aluminum rods hanging down screwed on with 4x15 hardware, could have been thinner but i used .090. Lower plate blends into rear skid making an aluminum shield for the rear skid. With the 2 hrs that i have driven it with the new configuration I like how it drives. it is more predictible and alows me to keep more power on in turns. I have not tried it with a solid center diff yet to see if the wheelies have calmed down but it does not endo when i stop hard like it used to when i mounted the motor in the upper mount of the erevo trying to move the weight foward to stop the wheelies.











    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 09-16-2009 at 12:44 PM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  9. #9
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    from what i can see from the small pictures that is a very nice setup!! i dont think ive seen anyone else drop the batteries like that. thats exactly the kind of thing i had in mind instead of buildin gthem up. and the esc mounting position looks great. the only thing i wouldve done extra would be to bend the tray up to protect the esc. i know its towards the back, but you might decide to reverse fast or something one day. idk, maybe im just paranoid, but they arent cheap.

    you have a pm, could you send me the pics in their bigger size. where did you get the aluminum?
    Last edited by cyber_06_wolf; 09-16-2009 at 11:54 AM.

  10. #10
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    Got the aluminum from tower hobbies. The ESC is actually pretty well protected and has an aluminum post on either side along with it being stuck halfway under the the center chassis and is clamped in with the top part of the servo mount. If the ESC gets hit with where its at I have bigger problems because it would mean that the front end is missing. the front end of the plate has a slight bow in the front and doesn't extend down below the front skid.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  11. #11
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    wow, that looks great! I first decided to buy the RC-Monstes-Mount cause its much cheaper, but when I saw that I began to think about it again
    I like the very low Batts and the extra protection for the underbody^^

    But it degreases the ground clearance a bit, doesn't it?

    Would be great if you could upload the bigger Pics somewhere

  12. #12
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    Ground clearance is about the same of you call it from the bottom of the skidplates ( I always do because if your axle cant go over it what makes you think the rest of it will).

    I will see what i can do about some bigger pics(should be fixed).
    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 09-16-2009 at 12:45 PM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  13. #13
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    Is the motor backwards? I thought it was suppost to face the other way

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the bigger Pics, these are perfect

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novarider
    Is the motor backwards? I thought it was suppost to face the other way
    Yes it is backwards compared to an E-Revo but i wanted to mount it to where it moved the weight bias foward over the steering wheels also the reason the ESC is mounted under the place for the second servo. Steering wise it acts more like a FWD car where it will pull through corners but still has all of the acceleration that is afforded by the 4wd system. Definately going to keep this setup but just need to figure out how to make it lighter without killing the integrety of the nitro chassis.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  16. #16
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    Does a brushless motor get damaged by running it backwards all the time? I'm looking at doing a brushless conversion and I like how sleek and low that setup is

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    No, as long as you set the timing appropriately, a brushless motor can run either direction.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novarider
    Does a brushless motor get damaged by running it backwards all the time? I'm looking at doing a brushless conversion and I like how sleek and low that setup is
    Sensorless brushless motors do not have a direction as their movement is directed by the order at which the current is pushed through the motor wires, as R1 said the motor can run either direction. For the timing though a sensorless setup doesnot rely on static timing in the endbell of a motor like a sensored setup because it reads the feedback of the undriven coil and is controlled completely within the ESC itself so no timing adjustment would be needed with the setup that I am running. If i was running a RX8 in the sensored setup then yes I would have to mirror the static timing on the endbell to make it move in a diffrent direction. Thank you R1 for pointing out that detail.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  19. #19
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    You're welcome!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  20. #20
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    Does anyone mount the batteries over the rear shocks? I have seen only a few conversions don't this way. Why don't more people use it? It seems to me the batteries would be better protected that way. Is weight the only reason people mount them on the sides?

  21. #21
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    Well the higher you mount the weight of the vehicle the easier it is for it to roll over, kind of like an over lifted Bronco or Yoder truck. The batteries are a big chunk of weight and should be mounted as low as possible. The reason they are mounted on the sides is the drivetrain runs down the center which would the best place to mount the highest concentration of weight. I squeezed my batteries as close to the center as possible and are an inch apart in the center. I would have gone closer but the transmission is in the way.

    Originally I had an idea to mount the transmission upside down so it would put the motor as low as possible and mount the batteries off to one side like an 8ight, but after a few mock ups i ended up going the way i did because it was the simplest and centraly concentrated the weight toward the front with the lowest cg.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by afterdarkgames
    Pics of a e-revo tranny on a 3.3. it barely fits and a hole must be cut and a front e-revo drive shaft have to be cut down to make fit. Motor is easily removable. Weight balance is 57 front and 43 rear and dead 50/50 side to side. Lower tray is a flat piece of 6x12 aluminum hung off of the chassis by aluminum rods hanging down screwed on with 4x15 hardware, could have been thinner but i used .090. Lower plate blends into rear skid making an aluminum shield for the rear skid. With the 2 hrs that i have driven it with the new configuration I like how it drives. it is more predictible and alows me to keep more power on in turns. I have not tried it with a solid center diff yet to see if the wheelies have calmed down but it does not endo when i stop hard like it used to when i mounted the motor in the upper mount of the erevo trying to move the weight foward to stop the wheelies.

    Hands down my favorite converson. good job!!!!
    An old friend.

  23. #23
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    Thanks! .
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

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