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  1. #1
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    Who's the quickest racer here ?

    I just have few set-up questions for who consider himself a quick racer.

    Don't be shy, you'll surely know if you are quick or not in races.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    I would say 8ight-e will be your best bet. But it might help if you asked your ?'s.
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  3. #3
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    I'll tell you after saturday......Yay my firstest ever race!!!
    1717/XL2 EREVO

  4. #4
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    Usually if you have setup questions, they appear in the post.

    But, as for being quick, anyone can claim that, but I have had a few wins in various classes.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  5. #5
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    I've got my ERBE set up pretty darn good. I've raced in 3 A-Mains with it and gotten 1st in all three! Not saying I'm faster than everyone else, but my truck sure handles like a dream on the track! I spent a lot of time getting it set up for racing...

    What questions do you have?
    I'm smart.

  6. #6
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    I'm the quickest...




    ... at flipping my truck upside down.
    E-Revo + CC MMM + MaxAmps - Skilled at breaking it

  7. #7
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    I've tuned my rear wing for extra stability.......


    Whenever my truck gets upside down (backflip, frontflip, roll-over, whatever) it is stay's pretty darn stabil on the rear wing... Not good for the lap-times though.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I'm pretty sure it's Steve Slayden.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  9. #9
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    Who is this Steve Slayden guy...I havent seen him at the local track...
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  10. #10
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    Just another noob...don't listen to anything he says

  11. #11
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    Ok, first, thanks.

    Then, I have the BL version with lot of hopups like alu rods, single servo, VDP, lpr 1/2 tyres,sway bars etc etc..

    But I have never found a decent schock oil-spring combo that is good. I've tried dozens combos but I have never find a performing one.

    I have to say I am now referring to 6s batteries, quite heavy, and soon I'll give 4s a try.

    I have now 70wt everywhere and I am keeping on lowering the stifness from purple-silver to black-gold that I'm gonna try with a 60wt oil. At the moment with pink-black it keeps on bumping here and there and lowering the stuff it will keep on hitting hard the terrain.

    Please bear in mind that in Europe tracks are not flat like US you tube videos, often they are full of deep holes here and there therefore this has to be taken into consideration.

    This matter has been discussed hundreds times I know that, but anyone have an own preference but after months of tries I would like to listen to what set up have the quick ones, not the ones who bash all day long and neither who runs on the backyard garden only.

    Please bear in mind I have 6s and I'll try 4s soon.

    Thanks a lot in advance

  12. #12
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    I see you have sways and vdp kit so I would say w/o question the best shock oil combo is 70wt w/ blue rear, silver fronts. If you change your oils lower than 60 wt you will most likely want a lower rate spring as well as you will have a bouncey feeling. I'd stick 70wt front 60wt rear if you changed up anything. Keep the ride height pretty low as well, so it looks similar to a truggy stance, I don't have an exact measurement right now sorry.

    PS I wouldn't use the stiffest sways up front and stick w/ silvers in the rear.
    I love you MAN! Need a hug?

  13. #13
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    ^ agreed

    One thing I've found about bumpy tracks is that I like a little softer spring in the front. Instead of silver blue for the f/r, I use black/blue. It's a small change that helps me a lot.

    Another small adjustment that has big affects is the spring preload. Do a few laps and then tighten or soften the front springs one turn. Do a few more laps. I can tell a difference, especially going into turns. It really effects how much the car pushes. Adjust the fronts, than the rears and keep going until you find the right spot for each. I record my settings by noting the number of threads visible above the preload adjuster ring.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mammuth
    Then, I have the BL version with lot of hopups like alu rods, single servo, VDP, lpr 1/2 tyres,sway bars etc etc..

    But I have never found a decent schock oil-spring combo that is good. I've tried dozens combos but I have never find a performing one.
    One question: when you installed the aluminum pushrods, which ones did you use, and did you put the spacers on them?
    E-Revo + CC MMM + MaxAmps - Skilled at breaking it

  15. #15
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    I am using these ones everywhere but I have never heard that spacers are in relationship with them..

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHFV8&P=OW and

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHFW0&P=OW


    The rear of my car tend to jump a lot when facing deep holes ( till 10cm )
    with anything stiffer than gold-black combo, so blue and silver may be good IMO for the front but definitely not for my rear. The oil is around 60-70. It jumps like a rabbit this way and I aldo have rods on inner hole on the rear and on the middle hole front.

    Do you race with 4s or 6s ? Which are pros and vs of both solutions ?

    Thanks again for your suggestions

  16. #16
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    With the Al pushrods, they are a few mm shorter than stock. The blue spacera that were on your stock rods should be installed on the Al rods to get them to the correct length. If not you will not be using the progressive nature of the suspension to the fullest.

    I know by doing this wrong myself. I run 60wt VDP on my shocks with the silver and blue springs. I was bottoming out all the time until I discovered this problem. I installed the spacers and get night and day different suspension performance.
    E-Revo + CC MMM + MaxAmps - Skilled at breaking it

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Who is Steve Slayden, seriously? He is a Team Traxxas driver and has won most (if not all) of the National Titles that the Revo platform has won...7 in total! I hope you were joking, because Steve Slayden is only the most well-known and fastest revo racer in the world!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericsenf
    With the Al pushrods, they are a few mm shorter than stock. The blue spacera that were on your stock rods should be installed on the Al rods to get them to the correct length. If not you will not be using the progressive nature of the suspension to the fullest.

    I know by doing this wrong myself. I run 60wt VDP on my shocks with the silver and blue springs. I was bottoming out all the time until I discovered this problem. I installed the spacers and get night and day different suspension performance.
    I'm trying to picturing or recalling those blues spacers but thinking about my stock rods I can't really remember any blue spacers at all..I just recall they were alu painted with rod ends made of black plastic with a kind of uniball in between.....

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Did you buy your E-Revo new? If so, it came with steel pushrods with blue 3mm spacers on each end between the steel pushrod and black nylon rod-ends, and the rod-ends, of course, have steel hollow-balls on them.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  20. #20
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    I have to check them phisically this evening.....I thought on the red alu rods it was enough to unscrew or screw the ending nylon rod ends until the distance was the same of the steel ones......

    Anyway also from this picture I can't see those blue spacers... http://www.rcboca.com/image.php?type=P&id=29906


    -
    Last edited by Mammuth; 09-17-2009 at 09:25 AM.

  21. #21
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    That picture is not of Revo pushrods, they are way too short. Plus, the blue spacers ONLY came on the pushrods that came STOCK on the truck from the factory.

    The red Tubes are different, they come in one size, but you can buy the spacers separate if you want.

    The Pushrods aren't like turnbuckles, they don't have opposing left-hand/right-hand threads or any way of adjusting them, except to take them off the truck and unscrew the rod-ends manually, then reinstall the pushrods. The spacers are for exact lengths, so that each pushrod is identical, to keep the suspension the same on all four corners.
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  22. #22
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    See the red spacers on the bottom pushrods? On the E-Revo they are blue instead of red, but I couldn't find a picture of the blue ones.

    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  23. #23
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    Obviously I am. Just look at my name JOKERacing. Why do you think I was sponsored by GH way back in the day when I was running my first gen Revo.
    j/k guys please dont flame me.
    JOKERacing Slash VXL, Mini Revo, ERBE MONSTER

  24. #24
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    you don't need to run the blue/red spacers if you run P1 or P3 rockers, only if you are using the P2 or LT ones
    MMM E-Revo
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  25. #25
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    You don't need to run them with any particular rocker. They are a ride height adjuster. For example, if the middle hole sets your height too low and the inner hole is too high, you can average the two by running the pushrod in the inner hole and taking out one or two of the spacers.

  26. #26
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    ohhhhh.... ok

    thanks chet
    MMM E-Revo
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  27. #27
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    Im not the fastest racer. I dont even race. Actually I havent even driven my erbe that Ive had for like 2-3 weeks already. Im waiting on the batteries that left hong kong on the 14th. Stupid me picked the cheaper slower shipping too. grrrrr......
    Are you an RC addict?

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    If you race in straight line, for long distances, i may be useful

    lol
    World fastest E-revo 91.2mph / Revo 75mph
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  29. #29
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    So, what are the issues you're having? Running 6s, is the truck bottoming out and getting out of shape? Not cornering as you'd like? Jumping erratically?

    More info would help sort out what changes we could suggest that would actually do some good.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Over_revO
    If you race in straight line, for long distances, i may be useful

    lol
    I LOLed at this!

    Oh, and IMO, 6s on a track is simply way too much, and you won't be able to drive the truck well, and you definitely won't win...unless you are at Talladega against 4S trucks!
    Project: BL Revo Race Quad & BL G-Maxx G3R CF Revo

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revoš
    Who is Steve Slayden, seriously? He is a Team Traxxas driver and has won most (if not all) of the National Titles that the Revo platform has won...7 in total! I hope you were joking, because Steve Slayden is only the most well-known and fastest revo racer in the world!
    Yes I was joking ...obviously if you have been here for any amount of time you KNOW who he is. Its not like he wrote any pit passes, setup tips or anything...
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  32. #32
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    Thanks to everyone,

    I finally spotted those blues spacers when I looked at my revo brushed.

    I immediately put them on the revo BL red alu pushrods rear and front and I even if I still have to try them out I feel it will be better cause it is slightly higher from the ground and pushing it by hands now it seems springs cover their whole range better.

    I also decided to siwtch the 70wt oil with 60wt everywhere. I also put black springs back and gold front, a level and a half softer than what I had before.

    All these settings should help to have less rabbit rebounds and the spacers should help to the reduce the heavy ground-bottoming effect.

    I did a bad mistake ignoring from the beginning those blue spacers.......

    Thanks a lot to ALL, above all " ericsenf " and " Revo1 " for your precious hints and explanations. More race questions will come.....on next Oktober I'll race against nitro truggies so I am preparing in the details both the car and myself ....thanks in advance

    I'll post a fedback after the week-end, meanwhile I am waiting for 4S to come, I am also under the impression that on a short track they will behave better cause of their lighter weight......

    Thanks guys ! If you have another hint like that I am extremely happy to listen to you All !


    -
    Last edited by Mammuth; 09-18-2009 at 06:22 AM.

  33. #33
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    Don't change so much at a time.... Should have left the oils and just swapped spacers, then springs, then oils.

    Keep in mind the oil is what keeps you from bottoming out too much, if you hit huge jumps and land hard on the chassis, you smack down on skids and bulkheads and they will/do break after a while. The extra weight oil keeps her from bottoming out as hard... saving you money and making it more drivable.. it's not like the flat chassis slapping down on a buggy/truggy you are coming down w/ all that impact onto the two bulk head areas. With the VDP kit you get the fast response back as well. The springs are more less to set your ride height but need to be strong enough to assist in getting those shocks back into position, you shouldn't have to have the pre-load fully used iMO. As you reduce the weight of the oils you should reduce the rate of your springs to avoid that 'bouncey' feeling, but be careful as it maybe a little more responsive w/ lower values but you loose the ability to jump/land well on the 'big' stuff and it really puts a beating on the truck. If you are not racing, jumping change it up to what feels best.
    I love you MAN! Need a hug?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ight-e
    Don't change so much at a time.... Should have left the oils and just swapped spacers, then springs, then oils.

    First, thanks for your precious suggestions

    I know that's the golden rule, you are right, but I had really enough since a while of jumping like a mad rabbit and in addition hitting the ground like an elephant together.

    I think that increasing a bit the ground clearance ( spacers ) and increasing the spring-shocks working range ( spacers ) will help to hit the ground less than before.

    Reducing the oil from 70 to 60 will render rebounds smoother......and decreasing the springs stiffness by a bit should act the same.

    BTW, I would like to pair my great erevo BL with a Losi eight-e early next year....do you know anything about the best e-buggy ever rpoduced ?

  35. #35
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    I still have my e-revo and raced that a few times and in the pro-series, but I mostly raced my Brushless 8ight-t and my 8ight-e, both are tekno conversions. I'm typically in the top 3 at my track w/ the truggy, and the top 5 or 6 w/ the buggy and that includes 1 truggy pro and ~4 buggy pro's. The pro's are typically 1~2 lap faster than me in a 12min main still but that is to be expected.. I'm getting closer and closer and doing very well for only having 1.5 seasons racing under my belt. My biggest problem as of late is just finishing the mains, my 5s 5k packs don't make it 12 minutes, and my 5s 6k packs are not capable.. they go out of balance and set the LVC off early. I've lost 2nd place 2x now and maybe even a 1st place due to this. Last night I took 3rd again and did it on 4s lipo w/ a 2.5d (1700kv) not geared fast enough iMO. So I was slow but my smc 9k packs were the only packs I had that would get me through the entire a-main w/o a battery swap, I think next season I'm going to drop my castle 1y in and just run 4s lipo configs and forget about 5s as I run 4s in my buggy as well and it will be easier to buy a few packs that I can just swap back and forth. Instead of having 2s 4s and 5s packs. We shall see.. prolly come down to $$$'s

    PS the 8ights are born and bread to race and race fast.. not to mention 100x more durable so you will enjoy the addition
    Last edited by 8ight-e; 09-18-2009 at 07:52 PM.
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  36. #36
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    You're a member of Revo-World, ask Tim Roberts himself in his thread. But read the whole thread first. A lot of good info about ERBE tuning. Tim gives great input but I do wish Steve would find the time to drop by and talk about his set ups as I think he has more run time done with the ERBE than Tim does.
    send $10 at paypal.me/Ray1964

  37. #37
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    I just finished 6 5000mah battereis today at the track.

    Adding those spacers and lowering the shock oil and the springs' stiffness changed a lot the car behaviour. Definitely much much better !!!!!!!!!!

    It hits the ground much less now, it absorbs holes and tricks in a greater way indeed.....and average lap times on my track are now only around 4 seconds more of nitro buggies...an huge improvement !!!!!! It was a pleasure driving it this way compared to previous months.....

    Now I am waiting for my 2s to come for the final step.....

    Thanks a lot guys !

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