Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 49
  1. #1
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218

    How can I get more ride height

    I have my pushrods in the inner holes. Running blue/silver with VDP kit in offroad position #2 pistons 50wt shock oil now about to be 70wt. All I do is jump and the chassis bottoms out HARD. I know its suppost to but it seems really hard to me.

    How can I get a little more ride height should I just add some shock preload? Will that cause problems like blowing out shocks or bending shock rods?

    I'm looking get my suspension to absorb a little more shock but dont want to start breaking parts because of it

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    577
    what is the VDP, i forgot.


    use the LT rockers

  3. #3
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Southeast PA
    Posts
    1,932
    Wouldn't the LT (long travel) rockers give you more ride height adjustment?

    If you want to stay with the P2s ... you could also try the long travel double orange stripe springs.

    VDP is Variable Dampening Pistons
    Last edited by Hughes500Bob; 09-24-2009 at 07:41 PM.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    You put the stainless valve plate on top of the pistons when you installed the VDP's, right?
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    I had a thread a few days ago "p2 or lt rockers for jumping"(or something like that) and the general consensus is that p2 are better for jumping. All i do is jump and do tricks

  6. #6
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    I'm pretty sure I have it in the correct position but I will make sure when I change out shock fluid.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Yeah, definitely double check, if you have the valves on the bottom, or even not in the groove properly on top of the piston, you just wouldn't have enough compression damping.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. noir 522's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    3,594
    simple way for more ride height is summit shocks - the barrels threads are actually longer than the e-revo and will allow you to dial up a higher sitting ride height - but it will stiffen the suspension

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Too much preload and jumping WILL break shocks.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    350
    i can't see too much preload breaking shocks. i can see it cracking the springs. but too high oil and the wrong setup could break shocks

  11. #11
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Geez guys... I've had a Revo forever, so let me explain why you don't want to jack your revo in the air with spring preload...

    If you add too much preload, you can reach coil bind [when spring coils physically touch and can't compress any more], before the skid plates hit the ground. When this happens, the entire force of landing is on the shock rod and the preload collar, and something's got to give, usually the shock rod as the spring tries to get out of the way to allow compression to continue.

    In the nearly 5 years I've been running Revo's, I've broken 2 shock rods, bent 2, and broken 1 shock cap. The broke ones were from too much preload, the bent ones from too high of an oil weight, and the shock cap was a one wheel landing from 35' up, and it was the second time that high up that broke a suspension arm and took out the shock cap.

    So, you can use the skid plates for their intended purpose, or you can stock up on GTR parts and run whatever ride height you want.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  12. #12
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    I have owned revo's since they came out but this is my first electric and the way it handles is different from the nitro revo. I'm not saying I want to eliminate the skidplates from kitting the ground but they just hit SO HARD. Mayhe its suppost to do that but it just sounds bad...

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    If the skids hit hard enough to bounce the truck back up in the air, then yeah, that's too hard. If it just sounds bad, I blame the plastic chassis.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  14. #14
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    It bounces a few inches back in the air

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    If your VDPs are installed correctly, I'd say you need 80w shock oil, or smaller pistons or softer springs then.

    Another 'or', you could try P3 rockers as well.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  16. #16
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    11
    revo definetly said it right.Get the tekno sway bar kit use the right bars and you will be a happy camper.It is the diffference between night and day.

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Quote Originally Posted by doubled
    revo definetly said it right.Get the tekno sway bar kit use the right bars and you will be a happy camper.It is the diffference between night and day.


    Sways have nothing to do with landing from jumps, and haven't even been mentioned in this thread. What in the world are you talking about?
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    361
    Quote Originally Posted by Novarider
    I had a thread a few days ago "p2 or lt rockers for jumping"(or something like that) and the general consensus is that p2 are better for jumping. All i do is jump and do tricks
    i looked through that post and didnt see anyone besides 8ight-e say that p2's were the way to go. i use LT's. i would recommend those or P1's, both give a lot more travel, which means your springs have more time to slow down the revo, i would also get stiffer springs front and rear(pink and purple are both one step up from blue and silver) if jumping is mainly all you do. that will also help absorb the landings. p2's are like half the length of LT's, which means have half the travel before you slam into the ground....just my opinions. but i think it makes sense....
    Last edited by cyber_06_wolf; 09-24-2009 at 11:17 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    ◄Incognito►
    Posts
    1,580
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stGenCRXer


    Sways have nothing to do with landing from jumps, and haven't even been mentioned in this thread. What in the world are you talking about?



    I have nothing more to add...
    (√) Zer0 tall-er-ance 4 stu-pid-it-deeeeee.

  20. #20
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Channel Islands, UK
    Posts
    1,075
    How high are you jumping? I don't see why everyone suggests blue and silver springs, that would be far to firm for my liking.

    I currently run the stock springs (white/green) and hit some decent jumps and they seem to soak up the landings pretty well. I've ordered some tan springs to run green/tan. Here is a video running white/green http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oimEf-tk8Uc

    I don't notice it bottoming out overly hard.

  21. #21
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    About 15 feet or so. I could jump onto the roof of my house if I put the ramp in front of it

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    734
    If you land a jump and both front wheels hit the ground at the exact same time with the exact same force on the exact same terrain(1%), than sway bars don't come into play. In all other jumps (99%), sway bars definitely have an affect.

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    I know what swaybars do I run them on my nitro truck but nobody suggested swaybars you just said revo suggested them and you agree

  24. #24
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Orlando, Florida
    Posts
    59
    Revo did suggest the sway bars in the OP's previous post about which rocker to use for jumping.

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=491809

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    We're trying to figure out why, on a 4 wheel landing, the chassis is smacking the ground hard enough top "hop" back up in the air several inches. Adding sways to a truck isn't going to cure that.

    Sway bars are a torsion spring, they're meant for evening out the gradual application of force on a wheel with the opposite side wheel. When you land full force on one wheel from a jump, the sway bar flexes and the chassis moves however it's going to before the torsion of the swaybar comes into play.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    539
    I run 50wt oil in both front and rear shocks with the vdk in all the shocks and a number 2 piston, I also run pink shocks in the front and purple in the rear and the pushrods are in the middle or inside hole on the a-arm, depending on how I want to run it that day and I have about 4-6 inches of ground clearance to the bottom of the battery box. Send me a pm if you want and I will send you pictures of how high it sits with a tape measure.
    OH WELL, YOU SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A TEKIN RX8...

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    Do you have a lot of preload or something? That's pretty high

  28. #28
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Get a chance to double check how the valves on your VDP's are installed yet?
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    734
    Quote Originally Posted by Novarider
    All I do is jump and the chassis bottoms out HARD.
    I'm not sure what type of jumps you're doing, but if you land from 8' up in the air on hard flat ground, the chassis is going to hit hard. You're asking about 3" of suspension travel to absorb a 100" fall. Not going to happen.

    Quote Originally Posted by Novarider
    It bounces a few inches back in the air
    If all you do is jump, I would suggest removing the VDP kit. It allows a faster rebound which is exactly what you're trying to stop from happening. You need a slower rebound to prevent it from bouncing back into the air.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    361
    edit: im at work on lunch. i was thinking backwards...
    nova, you could also try running smaller sized pistons in the shocks. like the 1.0mm instead of the 1.1mm number 2's
    Last edited by cyber_06_wolf; 09-25-2009 at 11:56 AM.

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Quebec (Yeah I speak french)
    Posts
    777
    Quote Originally Posted by cyber_06_wolf
    ....if you run the VDP kit with the springs on top, it allows the piston to compress rapidly(all four holes) but rebound slowly(only flows through two holes, because the metal spring plate blocks the other two off) how does that allow a faster rebound? if he had the spring plates on the bottom then yes, faster rebound, slower compression, but not in the offroad position. nova, you could also try running smaller sized pistons in the shocks. like the 1.0mm instead of the 1.1mm number 2's
    I'd say this is wrong. If you have the stainless spring on the top. When the shock compress the oil push on the stainless plate wich bloc two of the 4 hole. Then you have slow compression and fast rebound.

    If the stainless spring is under the piston. When you compress the oil flow throught all four hole and lift the stainless piston. Wich result in a faster compression and slower rebound.
    No pain! No Gain!

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    361
    yeah, i was thinking backwards. idk why. just one of those days i guess. but letting the pistons compress quicker isnt going to do anything but make his bottoming out worse

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, FL
    Posts
    734
    steel plate on top (near shock cap) = slow compression, fast rebound
    steel plate on bottom (near shock shaft) = fast compression, slow rebound

    Neither is what I was saying. I was suggesting to remove the entire VDP kit and go back to the stock black #2 pistons with only two holes. This isn't a good setup for racing, but it might be the best for jumping.

    stock piston (no steel plate) = slow compression, slow rebound

  34. #34
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Any chance of a video of this landing?

    chet might be on to something if you're routinely jumping that high with stiff springs, might just be rebounding too quickly.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    541
    the 70wt oil will help with both rebound and compression
    T8 sensored/Xerun-150a/custom chassis/fit body

  36. #36
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    Haven't had a chance to change the shock oil again today hopefully I can tomorrow and try jupming again but it's suppost to rain so we will see

  37. #37
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    11

    high jumps

    Quote Originally Posted by chet jamio
    If you land a jump and both front wheels hit the ground at the exact same time with the exact same force on the exact same terrain(1%), than sway bars don't come into play. In all other jumps (99%), sway bars definitely have an affect.
    sway bars definitly make a huge diff.I think e-revo forgot more than 1st gen will ever know

  38. #38
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    Quote Originally Posted by doubled
    sway bars definitly make a huge diff.I think e-revo forgot more than 1st gen will ever know
    Wow, that's a bold statement. I'd be happy to give anyone my racing resume and work history, but that's off topic of this thread.

    If you think sway bars are a magical side-spring, self-leveling jumping correcter, that's fine. It's wrong, but you're fine to think that. Sway bars don't force the truck to stay level and eliminate side roll. When properly set up, they WILL allow independent suspension action, and encourage the truck to stay flatter by limiting the amount of compression differential between the sides.

    So by your thinking and how swaybars really work, then yes, landing from jumps a swaybar will come into play if you land heavily on one wheel, and after another wheel is on, or nearly on, the ground. Land at a weird enough angle, and a swaybar isn't going to flatten you out and let you continue on your way, you'll turtle just like not running a swaybar at all.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

  39. #39
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    2,218
    1stgen do you like traxxas or tekno sway bars better? I run traxxas on my nitro but I have seen the tekno vs traxxas video online where tekno actually lift the opposite side of the wheel your lifting. I'm going to switch out the shock oil but I liked the way my nitro handles with the sway bars so I figured I would try them on my electric
    Last edited by Novarider; 09-26-2009 at 12:04 PM.

  40. #40
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hampton, VA, USA
    Posts
    2,018
    I haven't had a chance to try the Tekno bars yet, but honestly, the "lift" tests I've seen on youtube are misleading anyway.

    I did the same thing trying to figure out which bars to run on the ERBE and my nitro Revo, and started with the black traxxas sways. What a mistake that was, WAY too stiff, made both trucks feel numb on steering on the track, and would bicycle [lift the inside wheels] on the street turning too fast, just overall too stiff. I tried the silver bar in the rear with black up front, again on both trucks, and it helped, but the trucks started tucking the outside front tire and traction rolling on the street, and on the track they were understeer until snap oversteer, just made both trucks a handful to drive quickly. Now both trucks have silver bars front and rear, with the front bars set about halfway to the stiffer setting.

    No where in all my testing did I notice a single change in how the truck landed from a jump compared to not running any sway bars. Leaving the jump, once I found a setup I liked, the trucks actually started approaching the jump as sure footed as before I added the sways. The difference now is that the trucks are more stable at higher speeds through the corners, and don't require as much "settle down" time on approach to the ramp to get a good, controlled launch.

    I like most all of the tekno parts I've put on my Revo's in the past, so I'll probably try their sways eventually, but I'm pretty happy with the setup on both trucks as the moment.
    -Harry | Racing and Painting
    1stGenPaint

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •