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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by EpicSlash
    we know someone with money and time...
    Well to save everybody time and money skip the oven cleaner. Use Meguiar's Hot Wheel Chrome cleaner. You can find it at Autozone or any other auto parts store. Day and night difference. You'll strip the anodizing 10x faster than oven cleaner. Trust me on that. Just about any aluminum/metal polish will do. I use Mother's since because my car club was bombarded with a bunch of free stuf from Mother's from our last event.
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  2. #42
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    So the "Meguiar's Hot Wheel Chrome cleaner" Actually strips it and doesn't clean it as such!?

    I Guess it Cleans the annodization SO well it takes it right off!
    RFick73
    -1/16th Traxxas ERevo VXL <MERV> | DX3S

  3. #43
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    It's meant to CLEAN chrome, they say specifically not to use the stuff on anodized aluminum surfaces because the chemical eats away at the anno.
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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtraman122
    It's meant to CLEAN chrome, they say specifically not to use the stuff on anodized aluminum surfaces because the chemical eats away at the anno.

    Oven cleaner is meant to clean ovens too. So what's your way of taking off the paint? All these cleaners do the same thing which is eat away the anodizing.
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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFick73
    So the "Meguiar's Hot Wheel Chrome cleaner" Actually strips it and doesn't clean it as such!?

    I Guess it Cleans the annodization SO well it takes it right off!
    That's exactly what it does. I'm not the only one:

    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...move+anodizing
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  6. #46
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    Got the rest of the aluminum put on:










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  7. #47
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    That should be it for the aluminum... just waiting on the diff casing to come in. Still trying to figure out the shocks. I'll probably work on shortening all the wires this weekend and the new bodies.
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  8. #48
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    Lookin' Sick! What's she weighing in at? I just painted up the perfect set of revolvers for your set up! I got the chromes and painted the center flat black, of course! Just waiting for the rubber!

  9. #49
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    LiqrSicc you are the man!!!
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  10. #50
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    Flatblack- I completely forgot they have chrome wheels... only thing I'd be afraid of is it chipping. I'll be weighing it later tonight when I get the wires shortened

    CCH1978- thanks bro!

    dtnel - the front bumper is from New Era. It is really lightweight. I know people are thinking aluminum bumper = breakage. Not the case. This is just the front of the bumper. The whole bumper is still plastic and absorb impact except for this front piece. BUT New Era might have had the last of my business. I used to buy a lot of their stuff but the majority of the new stuff they are making is GARBAGE. This bumper is not machined! It looks like it was hand cut with a dremel! Horrible quality. Not sure if you can see from the pics but the edges are rough and uneven. The lines are uneven. NOT QUALITY. I'm pretty disappointed with the blemishes.

    Here's where I got the posts. Thanks to got_nitro for the idea!

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...old-Down-Plate
    Last edited by LiqrSicc; 10-02-2009 at 11:22 AM.
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  11. #51
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    OK it weighed in at 3lbs 5oz with batts ready to run. All the aluminum added a whole 2 ounces to what it was before the aluminum. Took a quick run outside and manage to scrape the skids. With the foams on it GRIPS. The foams made it harder to turn though. I'm noticing a lot of play. Not from the hubs or hexes or the rods but from the axle itself. As if the bearings were too big. Weird. I had a hard time doing flips with the foams on. Seems like the front refused to lift up. Which is a good thing for the speed runs. The extra weight didnt raise temps either. A cool 119 on both esc and motor on 3s after 10 minutes.
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  12. #52
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    You gonna post up finished pics with it all wired up? I haven't tried my foams yet. Sounds like they should work well for my speed runs.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by kazuaki
    You gonna post up finished pics with it all wired up? I haven't tried my foams yet. Sounds like they should work well for my speed runs.
    Yeah eventually. I still havent made a decision on the shocks and I still want the aluminum tranny case. Thanks for buying the last one!!!

    BTW the foams would be perfect for the speed runs. I was having a hard time turning with them on tonight. Gripped the road too hard and pretty much stopped me from wheelying. I should check my slipper though
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  14. #54
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    FYI...I have had to do some grinding on the inside of the tranny case to clear the gears from rubbing. I'm not sure if it is an issue with the tranny case or the steel gears. Either way, the quality is not exactly impressive

  15. #55
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    Where did you get all the screws from? Are they a kit or did you just hit up the hardware store? Are they stainless? They look nicer than the stainless my local hardware store has.

  16. #56
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    it's a screw kit....thetoyz.com has them
    Dye-no-mite Pow-er Go Fast, Wirrrrr Screeeech BOOM

  17. #57
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    I would lighten up the diff fluid to help cornering, it makes it much easier on the truck. For an example, most people here run 30k-50k in their diffs, the best guy at my track(sponsored semi-pro) runs 3000(3K) in his SC10, so thicker isn't always better. It may be good for bashing because it can help get it out of the rough stuff, but for actual cornering you want it to be able to "diff out" so the out wheel spinning faster actually helps you in the turn.
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  18. #58
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    Kaz, like Majekal said it's the screw set from The Toyz. $30 for a set and it looks like there's enough extras for me to do my girl's truck too.

    I still want the tranny case though! If it doesnt work out for you I'll gladly take it!

    I threw the CD back in last night but didnt get to run it. I think my wheel bearings might be worn. I can figure out why I have so much slop in the axle.

    I'm taking a break from this for the weekend. Headin out to the beach to go bash my ERBE and leaving the little guy home.
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  19. #59
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    who makes those wheels?? and what are the specs on them? they a 6mm offest?

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitey05
    who makes those wheels?? and what are the specs on them? they a 6mm offest?
    Not too sure about the offset but the offset is DEEP. You will have to dremel 2mm on the outer hole so enough thread on the axle will go through.
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  21. #61
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    Just about done with this

    So I think I can upgrade just about everything I could buy possibly everything unnecessary. I just ordered my shocks and a few bearings. My custom foams are coming in. Just need to get my bodies painted then I should be done by the end of the week. I'm putting a hold on the CF chassis and Neu 1115... probably going to get to that later this year after on I work on my 1/10 ERBE. Will have pics later this week
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  22. #62
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    What about aluminum tranny case?

  23. #63
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    BTW, the tranny case has more design issues. You will need to do a little grinding on the stock chassis for it to fit in. But here's the topper...the mounts are drilled and tapped for M2.5 screws, not M3 like stock. I'm convinced that Hot Racing never even installed this thing in a truck...

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by kazuaki
    BTW, the tranny case has more design issues. You will need to do a little grinding on the stock chassis for it to fit in. But here's the topper...the mounts are drilled and tapped for M2.5 screws, not M3 like stock. I'm convinced that Hot Racing never even installed this thing in a truck...
    Kaz, thanks for being the guinea pig! I'll probably wait for somebody else to make one. BTW what pinion are you using for yours? RRP makes a 45t pinion Using the calculator I should be able to hit 90mph on 3s given I can keep the front down.
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  25. #65
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    They actually make a 47t pinion. But your motor mount won't hold more than 35t, I believe. Not sure if you are interested, but I might be able to hook you up with the custom motor mount I was using back when I was running the 1112. If you recall, it would accomodate up to the full 47t pinion. Shoot me a PM if you want.

    I'm referring to this one...it is 100% bolt on.



    Last edited by kazuaki; 10-05-2009 at 02:16 PM.

  26. #66
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    Let me check out this 45t and see how that works out. I think I have a good amount of space left. I want to see how much hotter the Neu will run if I slap on a 45t on there... hopefully if doesnt get too much hotter.
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  27. #67
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    Wait, you are running the stock motor mount layout right? How are you going to run a 45t pinion on the motor? Once you get above about 34-35t the gear hits where the adjustment screw is.

  28. #68
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    Some photos for reference (these might be useful to other too).

    35t pinion on Hot Racing mount (same dimensions as stock mount)




    43t pinion on Hot Racing mount (same dimensions as stock mount)




    47t pinion on Hot Racing mount (same dimensions as stock mount)


  29. #69
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    Lol, that didnt even cross my mind. Did you try these with your Neu? Wondering what kind of temps you were reaching?
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  30. #70
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    My Neu 1112/2D never went over 150 degrees, regardless of what gear I ran. I was also running a 45t spur. Not sure what you are running.

  31. #71
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    Running the 45t/31t. During the summer I never got over 140 but now that its 70-80 degrees outside I havent gone over 125. I think the 47t should be no problem then.
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  32. #72
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    I just picked up those "93" springs at Ace. Our Ace sells them out of the package in a drawer. Charged me $2 a piece after tax. Lol.
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  33. #73
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    Figured out the slop issue with the bearings. It's not actually the bearings itself. It's the hub. When I de-anodized and polished them it lost a small amount of the outer layer of the aluminum. So the bearings are a little loose. Going to spray them down with a clear coat to build a small layer. Hopefully just enough to keep the bearings snug. The rest of my bearings and shock pieces are coming tomorrow so I should have this ready to go this weekend.
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  34. #74
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    if its big enough get 1mm larger bearing
    I memorized pi to 200 digits!

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by I know pi!
    if its big enough get 1mm larger bearing
    Sucks for me. It's maybe half a mm difference so i cant get larger inner and outer bearings. Cant believe that half mm difference can cause about 3-4mm of play on the axle. Actually, I might even get away with just using blue loctite on it.
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  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Sucks for me. It's maybe half a mm difference so i cant get larger inner and outer bearings. Cant believe that half mm difference can cause about 3-4mm of play on the axle. Actually, I might even get away with just using blue loctite on it.
    Heatshrink around the outside of the bearing maybe?

    I'd think the motor mount should be there by tomorrow, too.

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by kazuaki
    Heatshrink around the outside of the bearing maybe?

    I'd think the motor mount should be there by tomorrow, too.
    Kazuaki, i sent you a pm in ref. to your motor mount. I want one asap.

    LiqrSicc.. hurry up with the project
    Last edited by Dcastaneda; 10-07-2009 at 01:54 AM.

  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiqrSicc
    Sucks for me. It's maybe half a mm difference so i cant get larger inner and outer bearings. Cant believe that half mm difference can cause about 3-4mm of play on the axle. Actually, I might even get away with just using blue loctite on it.
    And here I thought I was losing my mind trying to figure out why I had a lot of play with my alum knuckle hubs as well, I noticed that my bearings were a little loose as well, I'll probably try the heatshrink trick before locktite. Thanks for the info btw.

  39. #79
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    if you could get that 1mm bigger on the outside it would make a huge difference in bearing life, but dont tear up the aluminum to make it fit poorly.
    I memorized pi to 200 digits!

  40. #80
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    kaz - I will try the heatshrink. hopefully it's thin enough. the mount should be here anyday now.

    dcasteneda - i know i know! the rest of my aluminum comes in today. it's hard trying to juggle all the projects, work, my eBay business, and social life into a 24hr day. esp when RC takes about 6hrs or my day already

    jafar - yeah I knew something was wrong when I noticed wobble. hopefully the shrinkwrap works. otherwise I think a thin layer of blue loctite might do the job. it just sucks I have to take everything apart again. I also have play in my turnbuckles. seems like theres slop between the screw and the steel hollow balls so I might take some teflon tape and wrap it around where the screw sits in the ball. That should do away with the rest of my slop.

    pi! - I tried a larger bearing and it would not fit in at all. I dont think I want to dremel down the inside of the hub either
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