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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Tekno or MIP axles?

    Hello!

    most people have known that the topic of "which axles are best for the slash 4x4" has been a heavily debated topic at that. However, my problem is that I'm indecisive and still don't know which axles I want for my slash 4x4. The X duties from MIP seem to be really robust, but they also seem really heavy and I only plan to 3s in my slash, no max 8 from hobby wing or any other extreme modifications. The Tekno m6 axles look good, but I'm not sure if they can handle 3s since they look so similar in build to the MIP race duty axles. Also, the Teknos come with a pair of hub carries, which I hope you don't have to use them in order to use the axles themselves (do you?). To get some perspective, I plan to run the j concepts Baja body with the oversized badland tires from proline. the extra weight from those also worries me a little bit as well. I don't plan to race but might do some casual track stuff, however I mostly bash.

    Any thoughts that could sway me into making a decision would be appreciated!
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    I don't actually have the M6s, but, from what I understand, you do have to use the carriers. The stock carriers are designed for the 5mm diameter stock axles, while the carriers than come with the M6 kit are designed to work with the M6s 6mm axles.

    However, there is another possibility you should strongly consider...I'll be doing it myself, on (at least) 2 of my 3 Traxxas vehicles...which is replacing the stock axles & carriers with the axles & carriers for the Traxxas XO-1. Traxxas, themselves, pasted a complete "How To" on the conversion, which can be done in the Slash 4x4, Stampede 4x4, and Rustler 4x4.

    Likewise...and, something I am in the process of doing on one of my vehicles...I would highly suggest/recommend replacing the stock front & rear diffs with the XO-1 F&R diffs. As with the driveshaft conversion, Traxxas has published how to do the diff conversion.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  3. #3
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    I run the teknos on my slash 4x4 and I've had some problems with them. The diff out drive cups seem to break more than you'd expect them to and on a low speed crash I snapped one of the front axle carriers. I ended up pressure fitting the tekno bearing into some rpm axle carriers I had and it worked pretty well. As for the axles themselves, they have held up well on 3s with a 3050kv motor. I've also run mip x duty and had some problems with the grub screws that hold them together backing out, but that's my fault for not threadlocking them. They are both very good and both would work well.

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  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrjelly007 View Post
    .....had some problems with the grub screws that hold them together backing out, but that's my fault for not threadlocking them.
    Whatever you go with, if screwing metal into metal, ALWAYS remember the threadlock. I ran into the same problem on one of my Rustler 4xs. I had installed the Traxxas aluminum hubs & carriers, forgot to add the threadlock, and ended up losing one of my screws out on the clay track. While I doing the upgrades I'm in the process of, one thing I'll be certain to do is make sure ALL metal-to-metal points have Blue Loctite.
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  5. #5
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    thanks for the replies! I'm kinda debating on just giving into the Traxxas constant velocity driveshafts since I have an employee discount at the hobby store I work at. then I won't have to use plastic hubs and they're not too heavy like MIP's. Also the rebuild kits are easy to get. what do you think?

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmcorday03 View Post
    thanks for the replies! I'm kinda debating on just giving into the Traxxas constant velocity driveshafts since I have an employee discount at the hobby store I work at. then I won't have to use plastic hubs and they're not too heavy like MIP's. Also the rebuild kits are easy to get. what do you think?
    I have tekno’s on my P4de, they’re great. I run on 3S and 4S. I run the 1951R’s my Rustler, it’s a 4-6S car. Also great.


    Somehow builds are never done....

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You can run teknos with aluminum hubs if you do it right



    I bash, and bash hard. The strength of the mip x duty far outweighs the added weight

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I am a huge fan of the MIP X-Duty axles! I have one set in use from 2011 and another from 2012! They both perform flawlessly with no rebuilds or maintenance
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    You can run teknos with aluminum hubs if you do it right



    I bash, and bash hard. The strength of the mip x duty far outweighs the added weight
    I have never seen a way to run tekno’s and aluminum rear hubs. Front is easy.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highroller54 View Post
    I have never seen a way to run tekno’s and aluminum rear hubs. Front is easy.
    the magic is use xo-1 hubs and bearings that fits on tekno axles ...but imo, original tekno (plastic) hubs are better than any aluminium, simply cuz there is no play in those plastic

  11. #11
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    I have both sets....with the tekno axles on the slash 4x4 I'm running the 17mm hexes and I have been really happy with the setup. The only issues I have had was occasionally snapping the pin in the rear. That was with 3S on concrete, and I found the slipper was locked up and not slipping. It was a cheap fix and only took about 2 mins to replace.

    The MIP X duty have been a little troublesome.....I assembled them according to their directions using their loctite but I have been having a few issues. I run hot racing 17mm hex adapters and I had a MIP 12mm hex come loose and I lost the hex in the grass. $10.00 then I had the set screw come out in the ball joint and the axle came apart and cost me $18.00 for the rebuild kit. I was constantly having the diff output shafts set screws coming loose......I decided to completely pull apart the axles and thoroughly clean the screws and threads and reassemble using red loctite. I'm hoping this will end my MIP axle issues and make them bullet proof like I keep hearing about.

  12. #12
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    It will fix the problems you were having but will create a whole list of other when you have to take them apart. One tip is use a real hot soldering iron on the grub screws near the diff or you will melt it if you use flame or heat gun.

    Which threadlocker are you using? If not Vibra-tite give it a try. I was having lots of failures with Loctite.

  13. #13
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    I used longer screws for MIP driveshafts. They are longer than stocks and holds better with blue thread locker.
    € 9,24 | HPI 86094 MW SAVAGE 4.6 5.9 Flux small cup M4x2.5x12mm
    https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/eJaPNx60


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  14. #14
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    I did switch to the longer HPI set screws.

    I'll have to get some of the vibratite and give it a try. I've been using blue loctite.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wuadeq View Post
    the magic is use xo-1 hubs and bearings that fits on tekno axles ...but imo, original tekno (plastic) hubs are better than any aluminium, simply cuz there is no play in those plastic
    But the x0-1 hubs only for the tekno on the front. The inner bearing on the rear hub is smaller

  16. #16
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    I have been very happy with my Traxxas Steel constant velocity CVD's. Been running them for a year and a half with no problems. 3s bashing.

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