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  1. #81
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by candy76man
    I don't consider that a failure, it's a minor repair and the product still works as expected after a quick repair. Personal opinion I guess
    Altho' I'm not quite sure how you rationalize a bad solder as not being a failure, I think your sentiment about just going out and enjoying the toys, er... trucks, is exactly correct.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanmondz
    one more thing, the captian said he tests and sell to the medical field, it nice to know that if our cheap lipos set our house on fire and one of us gets hurt, at least we know the doctors batteries have been tested and proform great
    Thats funny right there.

  3. #83
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    If your happy and haven't had any issues with your current choice of Lipo's, stick with them until experience tells you otherwise. I think this lipo debate gets touchy cause the expensive lipo user are trying to convince the inexpensive user that they should like the color blue when they don't like the color blue, it comes down to a matter of taste and that debate will not be won. I have expensive and inexpensive lipo's. At the track one day I had my friend do all my battery swaps for me without me knowing which lipo's I was using. I couldn't tell the difference. At the end of the day its the driving what makes the difference.

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by candy76man
    you said "I'd just rather be out running my erevo instead of rebuilding all my lipos"

    That is an exaggeration.

    I don't know what the failure rate of HC lipos is as it's not published anywhere but for me it has been 0%. I had one bad solder I had to fix but the cells were fine and all my packs are still going strong.

    If it's worth spending twice as much to you to not have to get your hands dirty then more power to you my friend, I'm happy for you if that's the way you roll
    That's not me though, I'll learn how to do something in order to save some money when possible. I've done my research and I generally know what I'm getting into before I do it.
    I'm happy with my HC packs and have had good luck with them and I'll continue using and buying them until that changes.
    For me it was really high over 50%.
    I am so sick of soldering them I will not buy anything from them battery related again. It was getting to a point all I wanted to do was run my truck and had to stop and resolder packs that I had just waited over an hr to charge. I still have ones in the box that I dont even want to solder tabs on.
    Have one set of Hyperions now as a backup ERBE set, THEY ARE WORTH THERE WEIGHT IN GOLD! The HC cells will go into a project that I am doing with my soldering I needed alot 180 cells total.
    When they are resoldered they work great and the cells are good. But ny the time you pay expidited shipping it is cheaper but still not cheap. There are cells here that can be found in the same total price range.
    Anyway guys we are still talking about a technology that is in its infancy. In the Future we will see cells that are UL Rated you can bet on this as I know several people who work there they are 15 mins from my home. As for testing details a cannot post it here until they are approved bu UL or not approved.
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  5. #85
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    I think a123 or life cells or whatever you want to call them will catch on once the technology improves and they start to shrink in size and grow in performance
    Xerun 150A 2200kv ERBE
    Dewalt 14.4v Summit

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by guzz95
    If your happy and haven't had any issues with your current choice of Lipo's, stick with them until experience tells you otherwise. I think this lipo debate gets touchy cause the expensive lipo user are trying to convince the inexpensive user that they should like the color blue when they don't like the color blue, it comes down to a matter of taste and that debate will not be won. I have expensive and inexpensive lipo's. At the track one day I had my friend do all my battery swaps for me without me knowing which lipo's I was using. I couldn't tell the difference. At the end of the day its the driving what makes the difference.
    Its not driving that makes the differance. Its getting them in the mail after you spent your hard earned money on them, hoping they work, hoping that your not going to have to resolder them or if they don't work or if they do go bad how long it will take to get a replacement if you can even get one!!!!!!
    Not trying to convince anyone of anything just pointing out the facts that if you get a lipo from Hong Kong your gona take a chance on getting a junk lipo and losing your money weather its $1.00 or $100 its still my money I worked hard for and I'm not gona just throw it away to some company in Hong Kong thats gona send me a piece of junk. I have not heard anyone on here mention that they got a bad lipo from HK and they were sent a replacement immediatly!! Last time I tried calling HK couldnt get anyone to answere cuz they were not even in the same time zone!!!

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Juice
    Why the haters here? If your happy with the packs you are buying then keep buying them. It seems like the people paying more are trying to justify the cost to themselves by convincing themselves that the other stuff is crap.

    I'm just getting into lipos and I figure I will go the HK route. I figure that if I get a bad one or one that needs repairs I can just buy another one and still be under the price of the "good" ones. If it turns out different than I will learn the hard way, but I'm not sure you can convince any beginner to buy 1 pack at 100$ or 2 for 60$.

    Edited for Language
    -ksb51rl
    If you don't mind throwing your money away you could just throw some my way so I can buy some new Ma 6000 3s lipos
    Last edited by racn3636; 01-24-2010 at 03:10 PM.

  8. #88
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    After all this, I'm still in dumb, dumb mode!
    I have TP Lipos, love them! Do I want more, yes. Can I afford them, no! I too have a large family, so spending money at this point is harder to justify to the wife. We have have been pondering the HK lipos for sometime and now the new Blue Lipos right here in California(shipped from Cali).
    I guess I will wait and save money and continue with quality lipos....our choice will be with SPC/SMC. Quality but still affordable, i think I like to spend part of our money on PEACE OF MIND.
    I would take the chance with the HK lipos and the Blue Lipos but I can't gamble at this point in our lives. I'd rather keep saving and having peace of mind
    Ohhhh Crap~

  9. #89
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    From all the reports on Trunigy lipos failures, most fall into two categories:

    1: A single cell will be weak pretty much right away and be very difficult to balance. And running it like this causes the weak cell to drop very low very fast. The solution to this is to either reconfigure the pack without the bad cell, throw the pack away, or replace the cell (I used a cell from a 2s pack to repair a 5s pack).

    2: The cell tabs and balance wires are soldered to a PCB inside the pack. This makes assembly/disassembly MUCH easier, but certain 3s packs have a solder trace that is a tad too small and it burns out under higher currents. People have soldered over the broken trace to "beef" it up with success.

    Other than that, *******'s seem to be pretty reliable. I don't recall any that have puffed/vented at all.

    As long as you aren't geared for 70mph, they'll hold up fine and heat up far less (meaning low internal resistance) than certain other cells.

  10. #90
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    Sorry to throw the subject off coarse but does maxamps make batteries for high voltage boats or helis. Or huge planes? I know a lot of guys who run huge planes and helis around here and all they use is ***** packs. They make bulk purchases all the time on them. I held a conversation with them once about lipos and what they said was a bit interesting. Mostly they run the packs in applications where they are pushing the limits of the pack at close to 80% of the time in the air. They poof packs on a regular basis. Some they say do better than others, mostly packs built from lower mah cells, they state these cycle longer than others in constant amp draw situations. I asked them more or less about Maxamps and why they don't use them. There simple response was that they have, but since they push batteries to their limit on a regular basis there is no reason to spend more for something you might as well be ready to destroy.
    ENJOY the hobby, don't HATE it.

  11. #91
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    I don't know how this thread went where it did. The OP stated that the company he works for resells batteries, some for RC, some not. They aren't branded, only manufacturer labeled (Something the branded ones don't tell). He then laid out his EMPLOYER'S specs for a battery; and explained how his experience testing the various cells to his EMPLOYER'S standards has shown him that sometimes the cheap packs - no brand's mentioned - don't hold up. The expensive cells do - again, no brands mentioned.

    Now, is it not possible they are reselling the batts to the military, government, medical community or others who have a need for a cell that meets certain criteria? As stated many times in this thread, most of only care about cost and performance. If it works and saves me a dollar, who cares; right?

    The OP is just throwing this out there. With his training and experience these are the conclusions he has drawn. Nothing more, nothing less. Are they right? Are they wrong? Who knows. Don't tear him up for stating his opinion.

    rash

  12. #92
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    If we need some real world test to determine the current providing ability of our lipos, why don't we hook them up to a small motorcycle? Like a 250cc Honda? That small motor should draw about the right amps during start up, right? And startup duration should be about the burst time on the pack, right?

    So, if someone has a small displacement motorcycle and was willing to test the starter current at start up, and it fell into that 150ish amp range, we have our test bed.

    Hook up the cells to the bike, no less than 4s but likely no more either. Start the bike. All of my bikes have always started within 10 secs, so that should be a good test time. If the cells smoke, you know what happened.

    Of course, we'll start with freshly charged batts. Measure the voltage after a few minutes of rest off the charger. Start the bike, shut it down. Measure the voltage, let them rest, measure again. Then discharge to a set LVC and quote the capacity removed; from that we can figure what was used.

    We don't necessarily need a motorcycle for this, but it is common and convenient. And starter motors put a huge load on batteries.

    We could also use a commercialy available auto load tester. The new ones record all kinds of info and can be set to any load rating.

    Or a 4wheeler, or etc, etc. You all get the idea.

    Lets think out of the box here people. We don't need graphs or any of that. Lets find something we can all potentially get a hold of and use it as a test.

    my $.02

    rash

  13. #93
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    I have used my lipos to start my 4 wheeler on multible occasions. 80amp batteries , 8000mah 10c, used as 4s, had no problems with a little 200cc motor. These are the batteries I used to run with my HV sytem. I think you would need to jump start my Ford V8, to get the kind of load I want my batteries to handle But honestly I believe they would. Though I'm not sure I have the guts to find out
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  14. #94
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Nissan V6 pickup, jump-started with 4S, 2x 2S, one 6K & one 8K. (I know, I know, but I really had to get the truck started.) Not even a hiccup.

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl
    Nissan V6 pickup, jump-started with 4S, 2x 2S, one 6K & one 8K. (I know, I know, but I really had to get the truck started.) Not even a hiccup.
    Thats awsome I always wondered would one have enough amperage or would it take 4 or 5 3s lipos for enough amperage.
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianG
    From all the reports on Trunigy lipos failures, most fall into two categories:

    1: A single cell will be weak pretty much right away and be very difficult to balance. And running it like this causes the weak cell to drop very low very fast. The solution to this is to either reconfigure the pack without the bad cell, throw the pack away, or replace the cell (I used a cell from a 2s pack to repair a 5s pack).

    2: The cell tabs and balance wires are soldered to a PCB inside the pack. This makes assembly/disassembly MUCH easier, but certain 3s packs have a solder trace that is a tad too small and it burns out under higher currents. People have soldered over the broken trace to "beef" it up with success.

    Other than that, *******'s seem to be pretty reliable. I don't recall any that have puffed/vented at all.

    As long as you aren't geared for 70mph, they'll hold up fine and heat up far less (meaning low internal resistance) than certain other cells.
    Brian I have 3s 1600 ******* packs that are puffed. I run them in the Mini Revo 2 in Parallel. Anyway out of 10 batteries 6 were not used and 2 of them are puffed out of the 6. Puffed and never used I guess there is a first time for everything they still have the hc bullets on there, I did not even solder Traxxas connectors on them. Any ideas why that happens, BTW same thing with 3s packs 5000s 1 is puffed and never used or charged any of them.
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  17. #97
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    I would guess that one (or more) of the cells were weak from the factory. Have no idea why they were puffed before used at all though. When you say puffed, do you mean the whole pack or a single cell? A puffed cell can make the whole pack appear puffed.

    While any cell can puff, I will say that EVERY ONE of my packs from "a certain company" has puffed, and most of them did so while just sitting at ~3.8v/cell in my storage drawer. Imagine my surprise when I opened my lipo drawer to find puffed packs! Mind you, I knew these packs were not up to par, so these packs were being used in setups that drew no more than 15C bursts. Never overheated, never overcharged, never overdischarged (LVC set to 3.2v/cell).

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by RcPocketRocket
    Brian I have 3s 1600 ******* packs that are puffed. I run them in the Mini Revo 2 in Parallel. Anyway out of 10 batteries 6 were not used and 2 of them are puffed out of the 6. Puffed and never used I guess there is a first time for everything they still have the hc bullets on there, I did not even solder Traxxas connectors on them. Any ideas why that happens, BTW same thing with 3s packs 5000s 1 is puffed and never used or charged any of them.
    . May have gotten discharged too low
    Last edited by candy76man; 01-26-2010 at 09:52 AM.

  19. #99
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    He said those were being run in the Mini Revo...

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