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  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Morrison, Co
    Posts
    146

    race-prepping the RTR 4-tec

    After seven years of bashing only, this summer I plan on being the only guy at the local track racing a 4tec. I have been race prepping the chassis this fall/winter and trying to find the weak points(aka driving the crap out of it!). I have replaced many parts yet I have reached a wall. I am mostly looking for anyones input on what else should be modified or upgraded before I go get laughed at, at the track. This car was bought in 03' as a 2.5 rtr, Wrecked beyond recognition multiple times. Its on its third motor, 3rd chassis, 3rd gas tank, 4th front diff housing... The list goes on and on. We'll just say she has seen it all and is now basically a brand new car minus a few random parts that have somehow survived the years. right now it sits in an Unscratched prestine clean condition, Little over a gallon through this setup.

    So far here is what I have done to "Curb Magnet":
    New Lower chassis
    new diff housings F&R
    new control arms F&R
    new 0' lower suspension mount up front
    new bellcranks with new bearings
    3.3 upper deck w/receiver sitting on open tray
    Pro ball diff up front, fried the rear(previous post), stock rear diff
    RCscrewz hardware throughout(not fun to install in new plastic)
    new suspension pins throughout and all hinge points drilled out
    all other suspension points checked for free movement and freeplay
    aluminum hub carriers F&R
    aluminum pulley shaft up front
    aluminum 15tooth inner pulleys
    CF rear shock tower/ rpm backup shock tower
    6mm rear belt
    Traxxas Big-Bores/TiN shafts with supplied springs/ I need spring suggestions and I also need shock oil/piston suggestions
    #5485 resonator pipe
    HiTec HS485hb steering servo
    S3003 throttle servo/open to suggestions
    Venom hump-pack with switch and charge jack
    swaybars, still playing with settings
    TRX 3.3 w/pull start(plan on running outlaw class)

    I'm in the process of replacing all the pulleys with the aluminum 20toothers and putting in the 6mm front belt, moneys tight this week.
    Its running the stock radio and receiver/ need suggestions
    stock gearing/open to suggestions. the local track has one 110ft strait and the rest is switchbacks and 90's
    stock axles, tried contacting MIP for part #'s with no success
    stock linkages for throttle and brake
    stock brake disk/ hunting for CF disk

    Thats all I can think of while typing and staring at the car, Please let me know of any areas in need of improvement or any other parts or accessories that will help me get to the front of the pack! Also Let me in on any suspension setups you may know of and good foams for smooth asphalt!

    ALSO does anyone know of a good material to replace the stock gas tank seal with, all of the tanks I have ever had leak profusely and Im just about sick of it! Will a thin flat piece of silicone cut to fit work? anyone tried this or something similar?

    thanks ahead for any input!

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Morrison, Co
    Posts
    146
    Anyone? Nobody has a lick of 4tec racing experience?

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Toms River, NJ
    Posts
    38
    This is a long shot... What about laying a piece of a nitrile glove or even a balloon over the hole before closing the fuel tank lid?

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Morrison, Co
    Posts
    146
    I dont know if your familiar with diamond grips? they are really good rubber gloves, Thats all I use at work wrenchin on big rigs. I tried using the thumb off of one. It worked for a few minutes until the fuel disolved the material. Haven't tried a nitrile or a balloon but I fear it would have the same results. I have yet to find a flat piece of silicone but when I do, I think thats the ticket. I wonder if the silicone that comes in a caulking tube would disolve when it came in contact with nitro fuel? Oh, to anyone considering the glove trick, don't. It left yellow residue in my tank and when you clean out the tank with brake parts cleaner it fogs the plastic permanently.

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Toms River, NJ
    Posts
    38
    I think your on the right path with the silicone. I see that the caulking tube stuff contains a few extra ingredients, probably for bonding and curing the product. I wonder if those extra ingredients would allow the nitro fuel to break down the silicone. Here's a basic listing of the ingredients that make up the standard GE Silicone Sealant found in hardware stores:

    http://whatsinproducts.com/informati...ffc70766f7e349

  6. #6
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Northwest, AR
    Posts
    1,294
    I have raced quite a bit of electric TC when it was big a few years back. I have also raced the Nitro 4tec on a tight technical track, small oval, and velocidrome.

    I found the bigbore with stock springs, 2 hole, 80wt oil and sway bars work great. I tend to steer with the throttle, though so exact setup is up to the individual. Rolling VS powering through the curves requires a different setup.

    Loose the 3.3 and get a bump start high revving .12 and gear it down. You ball diffs with thank you. I found that the stock gear diffs with fluid in them work great. Around 50k F/R works great.

    Tires are key. Use the right ones for your track and keep them clean. If running rubber on conctete you want wipe off the rear one that is being sprayed by your exaust often.

    At lower speeds and the right tires the car is pretty predictable. I tend to use weight bias via F/R ride to correct over/ under steer. I usually run a fairly loose car with 5mm front and 7mm rear.

    The best thing to do, what I did. Is find someone that knows how a tune the suspension. Watch each other, drive each other cars, and he/she can tune your car to you and your track.
    Pay It Forward.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Morrison, Co
    Posts
    146
    Thanks for the input!

    80wt? Wow a little higher than I anticipated using, most of the hobby shop guys who race at the same track have been hinting at 50wt f&r with 20+/- lb springs/ slightly stiffer in the front. Also I will be keeping the 3.3 for now as the outlaw class supposedly is more for novice racers like myself. They said the .12 class is ultra competitive and not for me quite yet. The track appears to be a medium smooth clean asphalt, haven't had the car on the track yet but I have seen the track up close. I didn't know ride height had much of an effect on f&r traction. I planned on using my hump pack as a weight bias controller if I needed, I have 3 mounting positions for it.. front bumper, stock and on the Y-brace(rear). After thinking about it, if very small increments in ride height effect the f&r traction, moving the battery would be overkill...

    I have been considering purchasing a bump box and ditching the pull-start, but the pull-start will likely remain until next season.

    I don't know anyone who races tc at all except for the dudes that work at the local hobby shops so the chances of my car getting a tuning session like you speak of is slim to none. So what do you think a good initial setup for the suspension would be for the maiden run? camber, toe, caster, battery position, ride height etc... Is having a oil filled rear diff and the Pro ball in the front going to upset corner balance or is it going to be just a matter of finding the right weight of oil for the rear along with fine adjustment to the pro ball? What I mean really is will I be ok with the front set tight(how I like it) and the 50wt in the rear for a base setup?

    Futaba 2PL 2.4Ghz-trackworthy?
    Is Acer Racing the way to go or is there another good affordable bearing set?
    Is there any track edicate I should be aware of?

    Sorry I have dozens more questions I'm completely new to RC racing.
    N4tec x3
    Slash 4x4
    Rustler-in a box

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