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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Mamba Monster - Perfect Set Up To Avoid Issues

    I just got my second mamba monster and I want to set this thing up prefectly to avoid any issues.

    I am going to be using 2*3S 11.1 volt lipos max amps 5650mah

    Is there anything wrong with the following set up????

    Cut off Voltage - Auto lipo - auto lipo setting 3.5 volts a cell (just to be safe)

    Brake reverse type - Proportional with reverse lockout...

    Brake - 10% (heard that high brake setting fries theses babies)))

    drag brake - disabled

    punch control - disabled

    Reverse throttle - 20%

    motor type - brushless..

    motor direction - normal



    what should the advanced settings be???
    Last edited by george007; 03-12-2010 at 05:03 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    Turn punch control way up. Doesn't effect the motor/esc, but is much easier on the driveline. Regardless running on 6s is going to be hard on the ERBE and increase your chance of a MMM failure.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Are you sure that the 6S will kill it??? or it increases its chance of killing it...

    I might think about changing that....

    Why did the people at castle tell me 6S was not a problem??
    Last edited by george007; 03-12-2010 at 10:06 AM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by george007
    Are you sure that the 6S will kill it??? or it increases its chance of killing it...

    I might think about changing that....

    Why did the people at castle tell me 6S was not a problem??
    The ERBE can and will handle 6s just fine. But to be running 6s as a CONSTANT (every time you run) will be taxing on your ERBE! Everything is being pushed to the max on 6s where a 2s is the sweet spot - everything performes with in the 'safe zone' as it were for every day action.

    Just for comparasion. If you put turbo in your stock Honda Civic you have to upgrade a few other parts to match the power. 6s is turbo for the ERBE... guess you see where its heading.
    Ray00
    E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
    ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!

  5. #5
    RC Champion
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    LVC: 3.5v/cell is a bit high IMO. You might find the lvc false-tripping as high current bursts cause the voltage to sag below that value. Easy way to tell is by charging. If the cells don't take at least 5Ah back in, you are probably set too high and are just shorting yourself runtime. Then again, let cell temps be your guide. If they are hot after a run, increase the LVC. If they are stone cold after a run (and it is warm out), you are probably losing rutime by not discharging them enough, so you can increase the LVC. I usually use 3.2v/cell and it works fine for the better quality cells. Without getting into a battery debate, I have found the older MA stuff to be overrated and needed to have a higher LVC to protect them. Their new cells are likely better, so again, let cell temps be your guide.

    Punch control: Max punch control will definitely help tame those high current bursts. The only disadvantage to a lot of punch control is that you may lose a bit of in-air attitude control, and some snap out of the corners. Start high and decrease until you are happy with the acceleration. I tend to shoot for around 50-60% in my setups.

    Motor timing: Set to low or lowest. You can play with this to get the performance you want withough excessive motor heat. EDIT: I originally stated the motor was a delta wind, but that was me having a brain cramp - it is a wye wind.

    Braking: Yes, high braking is harder on the ESC. However, setting 10% brake and mashing the brake every time is the same as setting a higher % brake setting and gently applying brakes. I would suggest 60-70% and use a gentle brake control finger. If it is still too high (too snappy), you can always reduce it. If you are really worried about brake spikes, you can install more capacitors and TVS modules, but that's probably more than you want to do.

    Reverse throttle: Low reverse throttle doesn't do a whole lot to protect the ESC. Reverse is just as hard as forwards. So, unless you have very poor control in reverse, or don't need anything more than a fraction of the reverse speed, you can set that higher. I usually use something like 60-75%.

    One thing not mentioned, but is a definite factor: gearing. To help reduce current (and stress on the system), gear for the speed you are aiming for (as long as it isn't like 60mph). Don't assume the stock gearing is ideal. If you only go 40mph max 99% of the time, there is no sense gearing it for 50mph.
    Last edited by BrianG; 03-12-2010 at 11:56 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by george007
    I just got my second mamba monster and I want to set this thing up prefectly to avoid any issues.

    I am going to be using 2*3S 11.1 volt lipos max amps 5650mah

    Is there anything wrong with the following set up????

    Cut off Voltage - Auto lipo - auto lipo setting 3.5 volts a cell (just to be safe)

    Brake reverse type - Proportional with reverse lockout...

    Brake - 10% (heard that high brake setting fries theses babies)))

    drag brake - disabled

    punch control - disabled

    Reverse throttle - 20%

    motor type - brushless..

    motor direction - normal



    what should the advanced settings be???


    I have had a great relationship with Max Amps... I just called them and they walked me threw the castle link setup and we went step by step thew the options for the ideal setup for my batterys Im running which in my case are 2x 6500 2s Max amps Lipos.... this was my first experience with lipo and the guys over at Max Amps really educated me on every thing I need or wanted to know... call Josh or Jason they will def walk you threw it....

    Im in the process of scraping some more $$$ for some Max Amps 3s 6000 xls for my 6s running Im really looking forward!!!!
    V Twin Emaxx
    inferno gt2 aka XO1 Destroyer

  7. #7
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    I have punch on zero I thoufht the lower number is less and highr will give u more punch .. how is higher punch number easier on drivetrain I thoufht it would be more torky at the 100 or am I confused

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bash bro View Post
    I have punch on zero I thoufht the lower number is less and highr will give u more punch .. how is higher punch number easier on drivetrain I thoufht it would be more torky at the 100 or am I confused
    Wow! never though anyone would bring a thread this old back... You are thinking in reverse. The lower the number the less power it will give you, hence the "punch CONTROL" it is controlling it, 100% control is very easy on the car. 0% is not, having said that I am going to change mine because I think it is on 0.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have mine at 40 over the weekend I had it at 25 and with the badlands it would spin hard with any throttle

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bash bro View Post
    I have punch on zero I thoufht the lower number is less and highr will give u more punch .. how is higher punch number easier on drivetrain I thoufht it would be more torky at the 100 or am I confused
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...h-control-help
    Rock n Rolla !

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    I would get castle cc cap pack. I have one on mine and the mamba monster runs a lot cooler, but I'm only running on 4s.

  12. #12
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    Do they really work? Some good batteries should buffer the ripple voltage themselves quite well eliminating the need for extra capacitors. But thats quite easy to make yourself, and if it helps, why not
    Last edited by WesleyK; 02-19-2013 at 12:28 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Competitor
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    +1 on the cap pack. They're cheap and you can even make your own for a few dollars.

  14. #14
    RC Champion Redsawacs's Avatar
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    old thread
    "RED"

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