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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2010
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    249

    Maintaining Slash 4x4 Help Please.

    Hey guys. I did a forum search and didn't come up with much help. So I hope someone can shed some light.

    Ive ran my slash 4 times this winter, no problems. Grass and hard surfaces were just fine.

    The very day I took it into some dirt. within about 10 minutes my spur gear stripped and that was that.

    I since replaced it. I also did the drive shaft mod. thanks so much, http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=504147

    #1 problem is wheels/gear boxes are VERY noisy compared to when I purchased it. I looked into the differential where the drive shaft goes in but not much to see in there. It does sound like there is dirt in it, I am very very new to these newer RC trucks. A LOT has changed. So I'm wondering if 10 minutes of sand running would get sand into the differentials so soon?

    If so I'll have to look into how to rebuild them.

    I also cannot find a descent overall guide on a clear maintenance procedures to keep my slash 4x4 it tip top shape while still being able to enjoy putting my new paddle tires on and tearing up the dunes soon.

    I did buy some Silicone spray in a can to do general cleaning and minor lubing of some of the obvious places to clean were the pins where the blue aluminum blocks are to hold the swing arms in place.

    Other than that I have no idea what lubes to buy, or anything. The hobby shop here basically say's there really isn't any work you have to do to the truck. But reading forums makes me think otherwise.

    Sorry for long post. Just a little feedback would be great. Thanks.

    Oh I also just purchased the Over-guard, so that should help keep some dirt out, I already ripped off the fenders off the stock body to lower the chances of it getting loaded with debris.

    Thanks again.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    RCs aren't maintenance free, by a long shot.

    Anywhere there's ballbearings, dirt can get in & make them gritty.
    Clean & relube.

    Gearboxes aren't perfectly sealed, fine gravel can get in and make a mess.
    Clean them out and degrease them; if the gears are really exposed
    it might be worth using drylube and not grease when rebuilding.

    If you've run in the wet, water can get inside the tyres (air hole in wheel)
    and make everything lopsided = vibrate from rotating unbalanced.


    Best thing really is to strip the car down to the last screw then clean and
    check everything. Every moving part should be checked for wear & damage,
    replace if necessary.

    Lubes... i like

    metal gears = tamiya Molybdenum grease; drylube

    plastic gears = tamiya Ceramic grease; silicone spray or drylube

    inside diff... usually use silicone syrup (thick) or Moly

    ballbearings = trinity Royal oil or any sewing machine light oil

    bushings = 3-in-1

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Thanks so much for the information. Guess im scared of taking the differentials apart and not getting them back together right with the right amount of lube. I did read that too much is really bad. So I will look into that.

    I purchased some Lithium grease for the spur/pinion gear. Ive yet to lube it with that yet. I was not 100% sure if that would be ok lube for those.

    Nice you know some real facts about what to use. The hobby shop doesnt help with that stuff at all. All they say is to spray it with an air compressor which I do not have.

    Now i'll have to research how to clean up the bearings.

    Water in tires was never an issue so it still runs great so far.
    It's just getting a little gritty sounding in the differentials and other bearings.

    Almost sounds like im going to need some kind of degreaser and a tub to clean parts in.
    And spend about 40 bucks in lubes?

    Think since If i have to tear it all the way down, I'll end up buying that really nice stainless steel screw set

    Again thanks much. Long post again. sorry. Really appreciate it.

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
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    Feb 2010
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    43
    There are a couple of videos that show how to change the differential fluid or rebuild the "transmission" on youtube.

    Here is one:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5odHj016UMQ

    Another on a Rustler which will be similar to the slash:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Z23q...eature=related

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    Feb 2010
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    thats so funny a hobby shop told you no maintanence.i guess its his way of staying alive in a hard economy.id delete that shop of my speed dial.i rip my slash 100% apart after about 30 minites of loose dirt racing,and there is sand and dirt everywhere.inside the diiff housing.and the bearings need the maintanence more than any thing.ive done all the mods to keep fine dirt out,and ive increased my drive time alot,compared to before.after all mods and jc overtray i actually didnt have to tare it down after last race.its only tough tearing it down the first time,if you,ve never done it before.this truck is so nice and easy to take apart just do little bits at a time.dont strip the truck down at once.do the front end put it back together,then do the rearend.one side at a time so u can refer to the other if u get confused.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Thanks again guys. Unfortunately it is the only hobby shop close. And as many trips as ive had to make their due to them not knowing what parts go on what vehicle. Exchange after exchange nightmare. I wasted a full tank of gas just driving back and forth because they kept selling me the wrong rims. Scared to order online fearing ide not get the right parts as well. Catch 22

    Really appreciate the input guys.

    Still wondering if lithium grease is ok for the spur and pinion gear.

    I'll have to go buy some lubes and oils next week and start tearin it down.

    What should I use to clean the bearings and what not?, I would dislike using car fuel for that. ( nevermind no need to use solvents i guess)
    Last edited by wallofchaos; 04-01-2010 at 10:58 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Feb 2010
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    i personaly do not lube my pinion to spur gears in any of my r.c,s.it would attract dirt and stick,wich could cause binding and exessive wear on the plastic gears.as far as bearings go take them apart with the edge of a razor nife,and pull out the retainers carefully.(blue retainers if stocktrx bearings)and then ipit them in simple green and brush them and swish em around in small cup or something.degreeser of any kind works.let them dry and soak em with oil.any oil will do,but the thicker the oil the longer it will stay in.put back one of the blue retainers fill it with oil and put the other retainer in and your good to go.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
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    495
    I use a de-natured alcohol & a compressor to clean my truck after every use. As far as the maintenance goes, I think everyone is different to there driving style and you will learn your own maintenance intervals as you start servicing your truck, you will figure out when your truck will need it by the way things look when you take it apart. Just take that white book that came with your truck and open it to the exploded views when you take your truck apart, it comes in very handy when you need to put the truck back together because all the pictures are right there and it even tells you what size screws go where, so a tape or a Digital Caliper is very nice to have here. Something like this is invaluable for RC and if you don't have a one you should get one it will make your life a lot easier:http://cgi.ebay.com/150-mm-6-Digital...item335bbb8ac7

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
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    some ppl use Simple Green to degrease; autoparts store has various
    workshop degreasers too - most are plastic safe

    For waterproof'd RCs... i squirt truckwash (its like heavyduty car shampoo)
    all over it then hose it off in the bathtub before work... i like clean patients


    don't usually lube gears unless they're sealed in a box; any grease works fine

    if you're too lazy to read manuals, grab your digicam and take pics of car
    every step BEFORE you take any screws out... hit replay when needed

    kitchen items like an egg tray or muffin tin are handy for holding the screws

    its also good to wrench over a big old beachtowel on your workbench,
    stops little bits bouncing away & rolling off the edge never to be found again

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    If you get it wet make sure you clean all the screws or they will rust. I wasn't smart and now all my screws are rusted. And it looks horrible.
    4x4 Slash
    3 2wd Slash
    3.3 T-max
    3.3 Revo

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    I just blow mine clean and after that kind of drown all moving parts in wd40.

    That's what I do after each session, wich right now is about 5 packs.

    And when i hear any sound from the car, i try to locate it and clean it away, and the key here is not to give up until you find it. Every sound that sounds bad in anyway has to be solved before it makes something more sound bad.

    That's my filosophy on RC maintenance.
    50 char sig is not enough!

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wacky Jackson
    If you get it wet make sure you clean all the screws or they will rust. I wasn't smart and now all my screws are rusted. And it looks horrible.

    There is a Stainless Screw kit out there for 30$, WELL worth it. It comes with a ton of screws, Every single screw for the car and extras.

    http://www.rcboca.com/rc-screwz-trax...screw-kit.html

  13. #13
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    A compressor became a must-have as soon as I bought one. And as BBBB also mentioned, denatured alcohol is great in combination with compressed air for general maintenance cleaning. Get it as dirt and grit free as possible before disassembly. The first time you tear it down is a little intimidating, but after that its a breeze.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
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    I just found a awesome lube, Royal Purple Max film, it is $8 a can, (very small can) but works GREAT I highly recommend, I use a razor blade to pop the seals off of the bearings and use "engine degrease" to clean them(it has enough ummmff to blow the trash out) and use a shot of the maxfilm, then they spin better than stock

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallofchaos
    Hey guys. I did a forum search and didn't come up with much help. So I hope someone can shed some light.

    Ive ran my slash 4 times this winter, no problems. Grass and hard surfaces were just fine.

    The very day I took it into some dirt. within about 10 minutes my spur gear stripped and that was that.

    I since replaced it. I also did the drive shaft mod. thanks so much, http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=504147

    #1 problem is wheels/gear boxes are VERY noisy compared to when I purchased it. I looked into the differential where the drive shaft goes in but not much to see in there. It does sound like there is dirt in it, I am very very new to these newer RC trucks. A LOT has changed. So I'm wondering if 10 minutes of sand running would get sand into the differentials so soon?

    If so I'll have to look into how to rebuild them.

    I also cannot find a descent overall guide on a clear maintenance procedures to keep my slash 4x4 it tip top shape while still being able to enjoy putting my new paddle tires on and tearing up the dunes soon.

    I did buy some Silicone spray in a can to do general cleaning and minor lubing of some of the obvious places to clean were the pins where the blue aluminum blocks are to hold the swing arms in place.

    Other than that I have no idea what lubes to buy, or anything. The hobby shop here basically say's there really isn't any work you have to do to the truck. But reading forums makes me think otherwise.

    Sorry for long post. Just a little feedback would be great. Thanks.

    Oh I also just purchased the Over-guard, so that should help keep some dirt out, I already ripped off the fenders off the stock body to lower the chances of it getting loaded with debris.

    Thanks again.
    i had the exact same noise come from my dif case. turns out that all i had to do was loosen the screws that held the case together little by little to get it to stop making that sound. try that and see if it helps.
    Slayer, Slash 4x4 (MMM/2650kv), & a Summit

  16. #16
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2010
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    249
    Things are getting HORRID!!!,

    I know I put everything back together right. The rear end when spinning both tires at the same time. like it drives. and the rear end is so noisy im scared to run it.

    Reverse is VERY VERY VERY loud. like its binding on something but I dont know what.

    I took the rear end apart cleaned it with simple green, Dried it all overnight.

    Lubed with 30,000 Traxxas Diff Lube. the diff is SILENT. its amazingly quiet. But as soon as I put it back together each screw it put in is making it louder, Diff still silent. but Possy traction is WAY too loud.

    I roll the rear end without it attached to the chassis across the floor and its just so darn loud.

    Im really getting upset with this truck. The 4 screw that hold the rear end together are SO hard to get out and back in my hands are killing me.

    Im off to sears to buy some darn socket allens so I can take this thing apart.

    I've been to my hobby shop well over a dozen times. I'm so sick of them not knowing anything about the 4x4. This is the only place and I really appreciate the input you guys give me.

    I'm at a loss here. I cant stand this vehicle anymore. 800$ later, Its very sad.
    If I cant get this thing figured out I guess I pay the hobby shop 25$ to fix it. which aint all bad. Unless they have to order parts, then i'm in trouble. But I know nothing is missing or broke.
    Last edited by wallofchaos; 04-13-2010 at 11:48 AM.

  17. #17
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    10
    Did you check and make sure the motor pinion is properly set against the spur gear on the diff (in other words, check the backlash)? With enough bouncing around, the motor can come loose and change the backlash which could = noise, then eventually, stripped spur gear.

  18. #18
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamiya
    RCs aren't maintenance free, by a long shot.
    If you've run in the wet, water can get inside the tyres (air hole in wheel)
    and make everything lopsided = vibrate from rotating unbalanced.
    Is there a solution to this problem?I've tried squeezing as much water out of my tires back through the air holes in the rim. I got a lot of water out, but they are still far from being balanced, so there must still be plenty of water soaked up in the foam

  19. #19
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    98
    Quote Originally Posted by UselessPickles
    Is there a solution to this problem?I've tried squeezing as much water out of my tires back through the air holes in the rim. I got a lot of water out, but they are still far from being balanced, so there must still be plenty of water soaked up in the foam
    I believe you can drill 2 small holes in each tire and when you're done bashing in wet conditions you just pick the 4x4 up and apply some throttle and theoretically the water should come out. I have 1/8 tire set-up in which the wheels have no factory holes. I have bashed in snow / slush and no water inside my wheels. I suppose when you finally get all the water out you could plug the holes up... ? Not sure.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
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    i would suspect bearings at this point, the pinion bearing in particular. closely inspect the ring and pinion gears for damaged teeth, or signs of damage, as well as the bearings they ride on. i had a similar problem, until i cleaned the grease off the gears and regreased lightly with clean bicycle grease.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I am hoping you have solved your problem by now. When you pull the diff out the case, pull the bearings off also. Remove the blue guards off them and soak them really well. When I put my bearings back together after they are clean I soak them in motor oil. Replace the seals when you hear no gritty sounds and they feel smooth. I put a little grease on my gears so they aren't dry. Make sure the case is clean. I have never had your problem. I am very sorry you are having a bad time. I love my truck! Have many fun miles on it

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