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  1. #1
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    STRC Shock Caps Leaking

    Well, stock plastic caps have been a poppin' so I purchased STRC aluminum caps today and changed everything out as I would any other time. After a few laps at our track, I noticed oil leaking out around every cap. They seemed to go on the same as the stock caps - seem to fit alright. One of the guys at the track suggested (Associated) shock cap o-rings (to fit around the top of the shock body/threads) which seemed to help a bit but there's still some traces of oil leaking. Is there something I'm missing? (I know none of the caps were cross-threaded).

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Well, the strc shock bodies comes with a oring on them, if you can grab those specific o rings that come with the strc bodies, i dont see why they shouldnt work. Is this for spec class? If you arent in spec class, i strongly suggest getting the strc bodies..by far the smoothest for the slash that ive tested.
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  3. #3
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    Make sure the rubber diagphram is seated properly, and not torn or anything like that. I always put some shock oil on top of the diagphram prior to installing the cap, this will allow it to "slide" while the cap is tightened and not bunched up out of place.
    Myth busted: Blitz is not faster on the track.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Arvint - yeah, not for spec class so when funds aren't so tight, I'll have to take a look at those bodies. I think the o-rings I added are helping but I was thrown off since the original bodies didn't have them.

    Out of Sight, that's a great idea about putting some oil on top of the diaphragm before adding the cap. I did notice that when I took off the STRC caps, the diaphragm was still inside of the cap and (in every case) looked like someone had poked their finger into the convex part - never had that in the stock caps, they always held their shape nicely. I've always placed the diaphragm onto the body and worked a rounded hex wrench around it until the air/oil is displaced enough to let the diaphragm rest flat on the body, then I add the cap. I hope that's the correct order - it's always worked for me to this point.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Out of Sight
    Make sure the rubber diagphram is seated properly, and not torn or anything like that. I always put some shock oil on top of the diagphram prior to installing the cap, this will allow it to "slide" while the cap is tightened and not bunched up out of place.
    My shocks leaked like crazy until I learned to put the diaphragm inside the shock cap I always put the diaphragm on top of the shock and then put the cap on. When I started putting the diaphragm in the cap my shocks stopped leaking.

  6. #6
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    I always put the diaphragm on top of the shock and then put the cap on. When I started putting the diaphragm in the cap my shocks stopped leaking.
    I'll try that, but it seems to me like it would trap air in the shock - I've always tried to work the air out before putting the cap on.

  7. #7
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    I'Ve had the leaking issue on dynamite aluminium caps.. I tried both methods, seal in the cap and on the body, same issue (fresh seals too). I ordered the dynamite aluminium shock bodies now.. I think the plastic bodies may be deforming a bit on hard impacts and allowing a little oil to leak through each time.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashDad
    I'll try that, but it seems to me like it would trap air in the shock - I've always tried to work the air out before putting the cap on.
    Well that was my reasoning as well about putting the diaphragm on the shock body before the cap. I would push the piston up some towards the top then put the diaphragm on and pull the shock shaft down to it would suck the diaphragm's dome shaped part into the shock then I'd put the cap on. What would happen was it would wrinkle the diaphragm's flat seal allowing the oil to seep out of the threads every time the shock compressed.

    Now what I'll do is fill the shock with oil to about 1/16th of a inch from the top and work the bubbles out. Then I'll push the piston up near the top of the shock shaft leaving about 1/8th inch of fluid on top of the piston. Then I'll take the cap with the diaphragm already installed and screw it onto the shock and after I snug the cap down I'll pull the shock shaft to fully extended. Haven't had one leak since.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for your description CarGuy - I'll give that a try and see how it goes!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarGuy7a

    Now what I'll do is fill the shock with oil to about 1/16th of a inch from the top and work the bubbles out. Then I'll push the piston up near the top of the shock shaft leaving about 1/8th inch of fluid on top of the piston. Then I'll take the cap with the diaphragm already installed and screw it onto the shock and after I snug the cap down I'll pull the shock shaft to fully extended. Haven't had one leak since.
    I use the STRC aluminum caps and o-rings and use the same technique as CarGuy7a for assembly. No leaks and the aluminum caps are less likely to pull from the shock body in a bad crash so they're more durable. For a really smooth shock go with the STRC aluminum shock bodies (they're threaded too!!!) but they're not a must have.


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