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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetdemon
    beef up the chassis where it mounts to the bulks, they are pretty tough.
    Have you had problems from running aluminum bulks on a plastic chassis? I've been wondering about that because it seems a lot of guys use aluminum bulks, and I didn't know if the chassis would/could crack because of that.

    I'm waiting for my tax return to come (yeah, I filed on the last day ) and I'm about 95% sure I'll be choosing the Maxx.
    ◄▲▼► SUMMIT ●○●○● 2 RUSTLER VXL's ●○●○● MERV ◄▲▼►

  2. #82
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. streetdemon's Avatar
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    I've actually seen the chassis break with even plastic bulks. The way it attaches to them (although a definite step ip from previous models) is still using minimal plastic, causing a weak point. That's what I was talking about when I said to build it up with some extra material. you could probably make a small metal plate to fit in there to spread out the force that would help awhole lot.
    Some like R/C's that are fast, others like nitro

  3. #83
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    I've seen people talk about cracking the chassis even with plastic bulks as well. It's all about the crash and how lucky/unlucky you are really.

    So far I've been doing good with my aluminum Great Assembly bulkheads. I haven't driven straight into anything in awhile though, maybe I need to do that more often to start breaking things again.


    There's been discussions about beefing up where the bulkheads mount to the chassis. I haven't looked into it too much though. That "pinch" where the bulkheads attach to the chassis is probably the weakest link for all parts involved. Like streetdemon mentioned, some sort of way to spread the stresses out would help immensely I'd imagine.
    E-Maxx 3905 - Rustler 3707 - Slash 5805

  4. #84
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    I'm assuming an aluminum chassis would eliminate the problem altogether, right? And speaking of those, do RPM parts still bolt up to them? Or do you have to go full aluminum?
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  5. #85
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. streetdemon's Avatar
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    RPM will bolt up to anything made as a direct fit on the truck. The one that I saw break was my friends and he was driving up a tree then doing back flips off of it. Truck landed on the left rear wheel only, and it was facing so that the "doors" of the body were facing the ground. I knew something was gonna break but I figured it would be bulks (plastic)
    Some like R/C's that are fast, others like nitro

  6. #86
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    The ideal situation is aluminum chassis and bulkheads with RPM arms/axle carriers. Doing that much pretty much makes your E-Maxx bullet proof.

    After that, you basically just have to worry about shock shafts and hinge pins if you're planning on doing 20-30 foot height jumps constantly.


    A gray area is RPM shock towers vs aluminum shock towers. Some people are for the flexibility the RPM ones have and some people are against it. I don't know what to believe in that spot.



    Have you read through Popoxx's build thread in the brushed E-Maxx forum? That guy has been through nearly every part made for the E-Maxx and he details everything with photos and mini-reviews. It's an excellent resource.

    Right now he's got the FLM chassis with GA bulkheads as the "core" of his Mamba Monster powered truck and has very little complaints overall. He's also extremely hard on his trucks so if something is gonna break, he'll be the one to do it.

    It's a long read but the information and such is pretty much invaluable to people who want to upgrade their E-Maxx, be it brushed or brushless.
    E-Maxx 3905 - Rustler 3707 - Slash 5805

  7. #87
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    Thanks for the info, guys.

    Orion, I have that thread bookmarked. I have gone through the first few pages, and I'm reading through it bit by bit. 24 pages is a lot of info to process, but you're right, it's a great resource.
    ◄▲▼► SUMMIT ●○●○● 2 RUSTLER VXL's ●○●○● MERV ◄▲▼►

  8. #88
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    What charger did you get. I may be in the market if i can't get my pro-tek 1010b+ looked at. a spark shot through it when i tried to charge dual 3S packs in series.

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