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  1. #1
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    Battle of the Brushless-es. Advice needed!

    Okay, I am going to go brushless with my Slash, but I just simply cannot make the decision of what to buy on my own! I do not know enough about this hobby to put one option higher than the other.

    I narrowed my choices down to the following:

    ESC:
    * Castle Creations Sidewinder
    * Novak Havoc 3s

    MOTOR:
    * Velinion 3500
    * Novak Ballistic spec (10.5T)
    * Novac Ballistic spec (13.5T)

    I can afford any combination of any of the above. I just want to know what people think about each.

    HERES WHAT I THINK:
    * I am liking the Sidewinder, because of it's positive feedback here on the forums, and because of its programability/compatibility.
    * I am liking the Novak motors because of their re-build-ability.

    I do not have the VXL ESC on here because I have seen lots of negative things about it, and I don't want to be the victim of the worst case scenario.
    I also do not have the Castle motors on here because of their high KV rating. I do not need to be dealing with hot hot hot motors...

    It will probably be worth mentioning that I am going to be running my Slash off of 8-cell NiMh batteries for wuite a long time, since this whole Brushless deal is going to burn through all my cash.

    One thing that I really need some help on is the difference between the Novak 10.5T motor, and the 13.5T motor. I bash, so I wanna know which would be better.

    I know there are tons of threads like this, but It is hard to gather the information on your own. It is much more re-assuring to have the help of live people on the spot when spending this much money.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  2. #2
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    I think the castle esc with novak ballistic motor which Turn is up to you. Look at the kv rating of the motors
    Buying Monster Trucks Madness Right Now

  3. #3
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    Here's what I'd do...

    http://www.hobbypartz.com/car.html

    Gear it 86/23 since your bashing and hold on to your hat...

    Take the rest of the money your gonna spend on the sensored setups, you did say you were only bashing...

    http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

    And now you have a LIPO + Nimh capable charger with built in balancer so you can pick up some batterys when your ready...
    MoD SLaSH - 10.5T - 2S - Hellbent LCG Chassis

  4. #4
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    Yeah, I know one is faster than the other, but I don't know HOW MUCH faster.
    I will probably go with the 13.5T to start, and if I find lots of change on the ground, I can buy the 10.5T stator if I wanna go faster...

    I keep looking further and further into it, and I think the sidewinder, with the Ballistic is looking good...
    It just so happens to be the most expensive option that I can afford :|

    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr
    Here's what I'd do...

    http://www.hobbypartz.com/car.html

    Gear it 86/23 since your bashing and hold on to your hat...

    Take the rest of the money your gonna spend on the sensored setups, you did say you were only bashing...

    http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

    And now you have a LIPO + Nimh capable charger with built in balancer so you can pick up some batterys when your ready...
    This looks like something that I could like!
    This is the other reason I need help lol, I have never even heard of EZ-RUN... I thought it was a type of RX....

    Ill do more looking-into this when I get back from dinner
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-02-2010 at 11:01 AM. Reason: merge
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  5. #5
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    Ok.. sidewinder and ballistic motor is an unwise choice... that is a sensored motor and a sensorless ESC. I suggest you do some more research... And, i'll answer your question with one of my own.. how fast do you want to go, how hot does the summer get where you live... typical daytime temps i mean.. how hot??

    As for the ez run system.. i installed one for a friend this past spring.. that exact combo.. in a Blitz... and it has been solid... BUT... these past couple weeks, its starting to get HOT here in Vegas, and the motor temps on his ez run are starting to show it.. 10 minutes of bashing 2 days ago and the 8.5t ez run motor was up to 178 degrees... its not even that hot here yet... so if its not hot where you live, and you plan to run only about 30-35 mph, its a descent option.. BUT.. if you want more speed, and want to have better warranty and no heat issues, consider MMP ESC and the Novak motors..
    Slash 2wd w/ Novak
    Rusty w/ Castle

  6. #6
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    So how good of a system is this "EZ-RUN" thing? I noticed that it said "the best ESC in china"
    well, I don't know about that, but if it is worth the price, then I will probably get it! it is about the same price for a motor and an ESC than it was for one or the other with what I was looking at before

    I figured there was something I was missing in the "sensored"/"not sensored" department... I have no idea what that means.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  7. #7
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    Dr, your kidding right? Customer service, I'll give you that, but heat issues by far are caused by incorrect gearing for application/driving style, with ambient temps playing a small part...

    Cool, mine has been rock solid so far for the last 6 mo's. In that time I've seen a few CC motors go up in flames at the local tracks I run at...typically most sensored escs will work with a sensorless motor, but a sensorless esc will not work with a sensored motors, always exceptions of course...
    Last edited by Slashdrivr; 06-01-2010 at 06:19 PM.
    MoD SLaSH - 10.5T - 2S - Hellbent LCG Chassis

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrFizz2k1
    Ok.. sidewinder and ballistic motor is an unwise choice... that is a sensored motor and a sensorless ESC. I suggest you do some more research... And, i'll answer your question with one of my own.. how fast do you want to go, how hot does the summer get where you live... typical daytime temps i mean.. how hot??

    As for the ez run system.. i installed one for a friend this past spring.. that exact combo.. in a Blitz... and it has been solid... BUT... these past couple weeks, its starting to get HOT here in Vegas, and the motor temps on his ez run are starting to show it.. 10 minutes of bashing 2 days ago and the 8.5t ez run motor was up to 178 degrees... its not even that hot here yet... so if its not hot where you live, and you plan to run only about 30-35 mph, its a descent option.. BUT.. if you want more speed, and want to have better warranty and no heat issues, consider MMP ESC and the Novak motors..
    Yeah... so a sensored motor has to go with a sensored ESC? that would make sense
    I live in New Hampshire, and it rarely gets over 95-100 in the deep-deep heatwaves of the summer...And since driving style applies here as well, it would be worth mentioning that I have a very rigid, and square driving style. I have been working on my transitions, but I am so used to the low-powered RCs that I used to have, punching it and the thing going nowhere...

    There is only one problem with the MMP...I don't have enough money!

    I really like the rebuildability of the Novak...so what is the Novak Havoc 3S ESC like?

    That, and a Ballistic is only $165, the same price as the VXL.
    I kinda want to go a bit faster than 30-35 that... It seemed like I was hitting 30 with my Titan.

    If the Havoc isnt that bad, I think it would be worth investing in the combo if it looks okay quality wise. The EZ-RUN and the Havoc apear to have the same construction style, so I don't seem to concerned about either...

    I think I am sitting on the decision between the cheap EZ-RUN, and the re-buildable Havoc/Ballistic combo...
    Last edited by CoolestDinosoar; 06-01-2010 at 06:31 PM.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  9. #9
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    Cool, speed is a function of motor KV x gearing...with similiar KV ratings both are gonna run the same speed.

    The sensored motors are rated @ different turns than the sensorless stuff, some still use the Turn rating, in this case a 10.5T sensored will be way faster than a 10.5T rated sensorless...because the KV ratings are dramatically higher for the sensored motor...

    What was your Slash geared with the Titan?
    MoD SLaSH - 10.5T - 2S - Hellbent LCG Chassis

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr
    Cool, speed is a function of motor KV x gearing...with similiar KV ratings both are gonna run the same speed.

    The sensored motors are rated @ different turns than the sensorless stuff, some still use the Turn rating, in this case a 10.5T sensored will be way faster than a 10.5T rated sensorless...because the KV ratings are dramatically higher for the sensored motor...

    What was your Slash geared with the Titan?
    My Slash was geared 19/86. The only guage of speed that I had was that I was able to keep up with cars on my street, that has a speed limit of 30MPH

    It is not the difference in speed right now, I think that no matter what, until I go LiPo, I will be pretty much grounded around 30-40 depending on what I do.

    It is my decision between getting a cheap thing from china that will work, but lacks future upgradablility/fixability, and the Novak, which I think looks a bit better quality IMO, and has the ability to be pretty much customized and fixed down to the Stator and sensor harness thingy...and since I have very little money, I think the appearent quality might win out.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  11. #11
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    here you go:
    SIDEWINDER ESC-$76

    VXL MOTOR-$74

    total cost-$150

    Your nitro is fat...It ate my Brushless Dust!!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirgej38
    here you go:
    SIDEWINDER ESC-$76

    VXL MOTOR-$74

    total cost-$150


    I like it!
    Bone-Stock Slash FTW!!!

  13. #13
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    I said castle esc and ballistic would be a great match. Read more before pointing out mistakes. The forums never cease to amaze me everyone is an expert. Good luck with your decision. Sometimes its best to make them yourself becuase experts can cost you moey sir!
    Buying Monster Trucks Madness Right Now

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirgej38
    here you go:
    SIDEWINDER ESC-$76

    VXL MOTOR-$74

    total cost-$150

    That is a pretty good looking deal, but I am someone who just loves the prospect of being able to take apart my motor and see what is wrong with it. I like being able to see how it works, and be able to touch each part, and know its function.
    Unless someone can give me one REALLY good reason not to buy Novak, I think I am going to get one...
    I wish I could get something like this to start, and get a Ballistic later, but it is sensored :|

    I think I will get a Novak system, and when I get more money, upgrade to a MMP ESC... I don't know, it seems like a fair idea.

    I have to click the "BUY" button, but I just can't seem to!

    I'll be looking through the forums of days gone by, and there will be something negative about Novak, and something positive about Castle, or the VXL... then I start to re-considder, but it just puts me back to where I was before looking at the same comments that made me choose Novak... ugh...
    (the positives are outweighing the only 2 negatives I saw so far)
    I am going to click that button... sometime...tomorrow...

    Do you guys think I would get enough torque out of the 10.5T Ballistic? (from my SEVEN cell NiMh, I have no idea why I thought it was 8 )
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-02-2010 at 11:02 AM. Reason: merge
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr

    The sensored motors are rated @ different turns than the sensorless stuff, some still use the Turn rating, in this case a 10.5T sensored will be way faster than a 10.5T rated sensorless...because the KV ratings are dramatically higher for the sensored motor...

    ?????

    Where are you getting your information? kV is kV, sensored or sensorless. kV is derived from magnetic flux(magnetic strength) which comes from the amount of turns of wire on the stator, air gap between the rotor and stator, and magnet type, not whether the motor has sensors or not. My Novak "7.5 turn" 5200 kV sensored motor has WAY more than 7.5 turns of copper wire on the stator. Why they say "10.5 turn" or what have you(which comes from the brushed motor side of the fence, actually) is because its easier for Joe RC to understand speed ratings between motors using "turns" than get into the discussion of kV and voltage. You can't directly convert "turns" into kV.
    For example, a Novak Velociti "7.5 turn" motor has a higher kV(5800) than my Drift Spec "7.5 turn"(5200 kV) and they're both sensored motors.
    Last edited by NovaSavage; 06-02-2010 at 07:46 AM.
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  16. #16
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    Ummm, thats what I said lol. Kv is kv, and should be the way the motors are rated. That is imo one of the biggest problems with the industry, even when comparing sensored motors by turns they are different KV ratings...so when Joe schmoe goes to buy his motor well its a 10.5 so I'll just be as fast as my buddy with his 10.5, and that is wrong...


    Novak Racing 8.5T - 5000 kv
    Novak Drift 8.5T - 4500 kv
    Tekin RS 8.5T - 5300 kv

    All sensored.

    Sensorless EzRun 8.5T - 4000 kv


    You and I know which motor would be faster, its just misleading to continue using the T labels with these but eh whatever...like everything else buyer beware and more power to advertising/hype...
    MoD SLaSH - 10.5T - 2S - Hellbent LCG Chassis

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr
    Ummm, thats what I said lol. Kv is kv, and should be the way the motors are rated. That is imo one of the biggest problems with the industry, even when comparing sensored motors by turns they are different KV ratings...so when Joe schmoe goes to buy his motor well its a 10.5 so I'll just be as fast as my buddy with his 10.5, and that is wrong...


    Novak Racing 8.5T - 5000 kv
    Novak Drift 8.5T - 4500 kv
    Tekin RS 8.5T - 5300 kv

    All sensored.

    Sensorless EzRun 8.5T - 4000 kv


    You and I know which motor would be faster, its just misleading to continue using the T labels with these but eh whatever...like everything else buyer beware and more power to advertising/hype...
    Ah...I get what you're saying. Sensorless motors are slower in kV than sensored motors. I believe that has to do with the processor in the ESC having to waste time and figure out where the rotor is vs. in the sensored motor it knows exactly where the rotor is. Personally after running my Novak, I don't think I'll be getting another sensorless motor. Runs a bit cooler and no stutt-ttt-t-ter...
    Nothing burns the hair off your hands like 40%....

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr
    Cool, speed is a function of motor KV x gearing...with similiar KV ratings both are gonna run the same speed.

    The sensored motors are rated @ different turns than the sensorless stuff, some still use the Turn rating, in this case a 10.5T sensored will be way faster than a 10.5T rated sensorless...because the KV ratings are dramatically higher for the sensored motor...

    What was your Slash geared with the Titan?
    where are you getting your info? sensored motors are way slower than a sensorless motor. a 10.5 sensorless will blow a 10.5 sensored out of the water.

    in a sensored motor the esc has to read the position of the rotor then send a pulse. so its very inefficient as it takes time for this to happen. not much but enough. thats why castle has a setting on the MMP to run sensored on startup but when it hits a certain rpm it will switch to sensorless and is much much quicker.

    i dont like sensored because of lack of power they have. and if you have ever driven similar kv rated motors that are sensored and sensorless its a night and day difference. the sensorless just beats everything. my friend has a 8.5 novak which is 5000kv. then i had a CC 4600kv, and he couldnt catch me for anything no matter how he geared it. which i know could be other things, but it was a big difference. they just have no punch to them. my other friend has a 13.5 in a blitz and its VERY slow. i would never buy a 540 size novak motor after seeing others experiences.

    Quote Originally Posted by NovaSavage
    Ah...I get what you're saying. Sensorless motors are slower in kV than sensored motors. I believe that has to do with the processor in the ESC having to waste time and figure out where the rotor is vs. in the sensored motor it knows exactly where the rotor is. Personally after running my Novak, I don't think I'll be getting another sensorless motor. Runs a bit cooler and no stutt-ttt-t-ter...
    a sensored has to figure out where the rotor is, not sensorless. sensorless has pre determined programming so it just does it, which makes it much faster if its done right. done wrong and you'll lose faith in sensorless.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-02-2010 at 11:03 AM. Reason: merge

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr
    Dr, your kidding right? Customer service, I'll give you that, but heat issues by far are caused by incorrect gearing for application/driving style, with ambient temps playing a small part...

    Cool, mine has been rock solid so far for the last 6 mo's. In that time I've seen a few CC motors go up in flames at the local tracks I run at...typically most sensored escs will work with a sensorless motor, but a sensorless esc will not work with a sensored motors, always exceptions of course...

    No, Im not kidding. The ex run system ran like a champ since the end of feb. till this past week... nothing changed besides the weather... the truck had no temp issues at all.. and then one day.. BAM! 178 degrees in 10 minutes... I didn't down talk you cheap chinese brushless.. infact, i even said clearly that it was a "solid" runner... you must have misread... Don't be so defensive.

    CD... its your money and your choice ultimately.

    I believe the Novak motor while not as neck jerking fast as the other options is still capable of 50+ on mild gearing with little heat issues. I do use a Havoc 3s on one of my trucks and its been pretty solid since last year...

    the fan will lose blades, it will vibrate and make noise.. but so does the ezrun fan... LOL.. get used to the idea of buying replacement fans...

    Someone linked you to a 150 dollar option on VXL and CC ESC...

    HERE is a link for the Novak... also right at 150..

    I LOVE the ballistic motor.. i do suggest MMP with it, but the Havoc3s will do just fine.. ALL of this advice from EVERYONE should be taken with a grain of salt.. But when I get advice from people i give more weight to those who speak from experience rather than those who just say.. "BUY THIS.. ITS WHAT I HAVE..." I'd be glad to set up a Slash with a ballistic and Havoc 3s and shoot some radar video for ya...
    Slash 2wd w/ Novak
    Rusty w/ Castle

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by FSTR4X4
    a sensored has to figure out where the rotor is, not sensorless. sensorless has pre determined programming so it just does it, which makes it much faster if its done right. done wrong and you'll lose faith in sensorless.
    I believe you have that backwards. Sensorless motor operation uses back EMF on the unpowered leg of the stator to determine where the rotor is relative to the stator upon startup. Sensored(Ahhh...) already knows where the rotor is, hence the term sensored. Thats why sensorless motors stutter, and sensored motors don't. Why? The ESC has to jolt the rotor to get it to spin, find out which way it's spinning, and go from there. Sensored motors also exhibit a greater amount of rotor control vs. sensorless, which can make them "feel" slower than a sensorless motor.

    And to the OP, I'd save up a little extra $$$ and get a Mamba Max Pro and pair it with any of those motors you listed. I just soldered my MMP to my Novak Drift Spec, and was very pleased with the performance I got running my Traxxas 7 cells with it.
    Nothing burns the hair off your hands like 40%....

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by NovaSavage
    I believe you have that backwards. Sensorless motor operation uses back EMF on the unpowered leg of the stator to determine where the rotor is relative to the stator upon startup. Sensored(Ahhh...) already knows where the rotor is, hence the term sensored. Thats why sensorless motors stutter, and sensored motors don't. Why? The ESC has to jolt the rotor to get it to spin, find out which way it's spinning, and go from there. Sensored motors also exhibit a greater amount of rotor control vs. sensorless, which can make them "feel" slower than a sensorless motor.

    And to the OP, I'd save up a little extra $$$ and get a Mamba Max Pro and pair it with any of those motors you listed. I just soldered my MMP to my Novak Drift Spec, and was very pleased with the performance I got running my Traxxas 7 cells with it.
    but sensored still takes time to read where the sensor is. and it doesnt change the fact that a good sensorless setup is much faster than sensored setup.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by FSTR4X4
    but sensored still takes time to read where the sensor is. and it doesnt change the fact that a good sensorless setup is much faster than sensored setup.
    I can't see comparing vehicle performance just on motor types as valid, but its your opinion.
    Nothing burns the hair off your hands like 40%....

  23. #23
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    Novasavage... I wish I had the opportunity to save money, because I think the MMP would be a great choice too. I have no job, and have been saving loose change here and there since I got my Slash about a year ago to get a BL system...

    Everyone else...I am not looking for neck-breaking fast here, I am simply looking for a solid, reliable setup to replace my dead Titan and XL-5. I feel pretty confident with the Ballistic and Havoc 3s setup. I like the fact that the Ballistic motors have very little heat issues, and I like the fact of smoother running than a sensorless setup.

    The final decision at hand right now is this:
    WHAT STATOR WIND SHOULD I GET ~_~
    I have no idea how much of a difference a 10.5 or a 13.5 would make!
    I don't really have any refference to go by besides the kV ratings, which I really don't know exactly what those entail anyway. I know what each kV means, I just don't know how that translates into the real world.
    I realize the 8.5 is cheaper, but I will save the 8.5 for when I want to go EVEN faster when I buy lipos, and just buy another stator...
    The decision right now is between 13.5 and 10.5... Both of which are about equal distances in either direction (kV wise) from the Velinion

    I am going to need some guidance.
    I am thinking about going with the 13.5, and having some extra torque on my hands, and a little bit of a longer runtime, but then again, why not just go for glory and get the 10.5?
    this is a harder decision than deciding to buy the VXL on the spot before I did any research when I was at my LHS the other day :|

    the thing i kinda am looking for as an answer, is if I had one of each, and had them geared the exact same way, would the speed difference be noticable? or would it be like 2 or 3 mph?
    Last edited by CoolestDinosoar; 06-02-2010 at 03:16 PM.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  24. #24
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    if you MUST get 10.5 or 13.5 get the 10.5... my son uses the 13.5 and its slow in my opinion... the 10.5 will be much better.. not as good as the 8.5, and you'll want a new pinion too, but its a good start.. and i thikn you are going with teh spec system which will have bullets and trx plugs already.. so that is good too..

    Enjoy!
    Slash 2wd w/ Novak
    Rusty w/ Castle

  25. #25
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    Thanks. I have never dealt with these sorts of motors in the past, so I really don't know how all of the numbers stack up.
    I was planning on going with the 32P mod anyway, since I burnt through my last 48P pinion like a hot knife through butter.

    and yes, I am going to go with the spec system.
    The reason I am getting one of the slower ones right now, is because I am not going brushless for the speed necessarily, I am going for the lower motor matinance and higher efficiency.

    I will end up buying an 8.5 stator eventually, but for now, I just need some casual bashing capabilities.

    I have made my decision!
    10.5T Novak Ballistic/Novak Havoc 3s!
    thank you all for all of your help and input!
    I can't wait to go drive my Slash again!
    these last 2 days feel like an eternity without a functioning RC
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  26. #26
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    What about the sidwinder esc with tacon motor?

    http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m10-car-2848-3000.html
    would that be comparable to the vxl speed wise
    I was anti-obama before it was cool!

  27. #27
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    I'm running the Castle MMpro with a 13.5t Novak Ballistic. With stock 19/90 gearing its a bit slow. (But still faster than stock) And it runs for over a half hour on a 4000 2s lipo. I think bumping up the pinion to a 20 or 21 and this will be a really nice setup.

  28. #28
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    If you read what I had here before, Ignore it. I found out what my problem was :|
    I had 1/5th scale wheels in the calculator for some reason I thought 53 Mph was alittle fast hahaha
    Now I can stop frantically trying to make the packages of the 13T and 14T look like I never took the cardboard part off the top of the bag

    I am getting more realistic speeds of around 28-30 Mph.

    But just to make sure, How would some of you out there reccomend gearing a 10.5T 4200Kv Ballistic motor?
    My lowest ratio I bought is 12/56 (0.214)
    and the highest is 14/56 (.25)
    and I have a 13/56 in the middle (0.232)

    I am pretty sure that these are looking good, paired with the results of the speed calculator.
    Last edited by CoolestDinosoar; 06-03-2010 at 05:26 PM.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

  29. #29
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    Location
    St. Louis MO
    Posts
    277
    I vote for the Castle esc. I really like mine and it's EZ to program with my PC.

  30. #30
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by NovaSavage
    Thats why sensorless motors stutter, and sensored motors don't. Why? The ESC has to jolt the rotor to get it to spin, find out which way it's spinning, and go from there.
    Sorry bud im having a little trouble understanding this. A swap of wires on a sensorless esc can change the way the motor rotates. So it either rotates clockwise or anti-clockwise. A sensorless esc already knows what rotation to spin the motor, however it doesnt know where the rotor is positioned, unlike a sensored where it knows where the rotor is positioned. This is what causes minor cogging on startup, & thats a big factor as to why castle stepped up their MMP to run sensored on startup. Sensorless has the best smooth power, its just getting it started is a bit of a problem.

    & i have to agree with FSTR4X4. Same with me & my mate, Novak Havoc 8.5 he was geared lower than me, I was running a SW4600, & he would just eat my dust. I could never understand why, until recently i figured that sensored motors have different limits, parameters compared to sensorless. Its like comparing a car, driving it with stability on, then driving it with stability off.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slashdrivr
    The sensored motors are rated @ different turns than the sensorless stuff, some still use the Turn rating, in this case a 10.5T sensored will be way faster than a 10.5T rated sensorless...because the KV ratings are dramatically higher for the sensored motor...
    Each motor manufacturer rate there 'Turn' motors kv ratings differently. most Motor companies that tend to rate there motors by turn, determine that desicion based on what an optimal gear ratio the specific motor is comfortable at. Not by kv rating at all. So as described above, motor company A has there 10.5 rated @ 4200kv, whereas motor company B has there 10.5 rate @ 3800kv. As you can see there's a large difference in kv, but it all comes down to how these motors can be geared, that makes or breaks a motors performance. Thats why 'Turn' motors are more aimed towards racers. KV rating is really irrelevant in racing.

    Also, i have not seen a 10.5T sensorless specific motor. Most sensorless motors are rated by KV, as these are aimed more towards bashers & the not-so-serious racer. HOWEVER, you can get 10.5T motors that can operate sensored or sensorless.

    Also another factor, Tekin have rated there sensored T8 motors, in kv rating. This is because most 1/8 electric racers base their decision of what motor to get, based on what size battery they use & the overall weight of the 1/8th vehicle the motor is going into.

    Quote Originally Posted by CoolestDinosoar
    Thanks. I have never dealt with these sorts of motors in the past, so I really don't know how all of the numbers stack up.
    I was planning on going with the 32P mod anyway, since I burnt through my last 48P pinion like a hot knife through butter.

    and yes, I am going to go with the spec system.
    The reason I am getting one of the slower ones right now, is because I am not going brushless for the speed necessarily, I am going for the lower motor matinance and higher efficiency.

    I will end up buying an 8.5 stator eventually, but for now, I just need some casual bashing capabilities.

    I have made my decision!
    10.5T Novak Ballistic/Novak Havoc 3s!
    thank you all for all of your help and input!
    I can't wait to go drive my Slash again!
    these last 2 days feel like an eternity without a functioning RC
    Trust me, once you get the hang of the speed of the 10.5, especially for bashing, you'll want to go higher in speed. Like alot of people have suggested, i wouldve gone for the MMP4600. I would suggest having patience in picking which brushless system to get, not just buying one 'for now until i can get such & such'. It wouldve saved you quite a bit of money. But when you do have the funds, get an MMP, strap it to the 10.5 you already bought, & see the difference between sensored & sensorless speeds....
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-06-2010 at 07:11 AM. Reason: merge

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    589
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Demon
    Trust me, once you get the hang of the speed of the 10.5, especially for bashing, you'll want to go higher in speed. Like alot of people have suggested, i wouldve gone for the MMP4600. I would suggest having patience in picking which brushless system to get, not just buying one 'for now until i can get such & such'. It wouldve saved you quite a bit of money. But when you do have the funds, get an MMP, strap it to the 10.5 you already bought, & see the difference between sensored & sensorless speeds....
    Yeah, I wanted to go with the MMP ESC, but it would have taken me at least 4 or 5 more months to gather up that extra $50 or$60 difference in price from what I bought. I have a VERY low, almost nonexistent income...
    I wanted my truck to be ready for when we take off for our fourth of july camping week... I needed to buy something within that $170 price range, because that is all of the money I had.
    and about the speed, I did not go brushless for neck breaking speeds... yet... I am just taking the very first step into the world of BL with an appearanently solid, slightly-more-powerful-than-stock system.
    I am lucky I don't have any money.

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