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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Wow only 7 runs and already 2 breaks

    Maybe I should have went with my other choice of trucks. I am new at this but I hope this isn't going to be a regular event. I am running the 7 cell NIMH that came with the truck.( I am afraid of whats going to happen when I get lipo's) Other than one run at a BMX track I have been running on flat grass fields. Trying to get better at driving. I have a ramp made that I have been going over as well. So far I have broke a front bulkhead and a rear shock tower. I am considering replacing some of the plastic with aluminum. My thought on this is it will just move the weakest point to somewhere else. What plastic parts do you guys reccommend I change to aluminum? Thanks
    Last edited by emtae; 09-13-2010 at 06:49 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
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    get rpm were ever u can much stronger i keep breaking dive shafts with my emaxxx they last a matter of seconds with lipos lol
    jato 3.3/slash4x4/other

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrya27
    get rpm were ever u can much stronger i keep breaking dive shafts with my emaxxx they last a matter of seconds with lipos lol
    What parts would you recommend I upgrade? Just the driveshafts?

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Welcome to the club

    Aluminium bulks & shock towers will be fine, with RPM a-arms being the typical upgrade path most people follow. Just avoid integy parts generally as they are mainly bling items, poor strength for bashing. RPM also do shock towers but they limit your suspension options + are quite flexible- this is fine for the a-arms but with the towers this can cause too much flex on hard landings resulting in bent and broken shocks/ shock shafts.

    A tip for jumping is to let off the throttle as you leave the ramp; blip the throttle to bring the nose up, tap the brakes to bring the nose down.

    If you havent bought / dont have a CastleLink programmer for the MMM esc, you might think about buying one as it allows alot of fine tuning to the esc settings and will help tame the power ( very useful for when you do go to lipos eventually ).
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
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    i just got my emaxx so i wouldn't no for sure but im getting mip shafts first with integy aluminum hub carriers ...i would get rpm a arms and shock towers but thers alot of guys that have way more xp with the emaxx then me
    jato 3.3/slash4x4/other

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I've never had much trouble with the drive shafts myself, only replaced my rears after a few years use recently- being gentle on the throttle as you accelerate rather than mashing the throttle always helps. if the slipper pads arent the aluminium ones, then thats a good upgrade to start with- those will give you much better control over the slipper setting without worrying about melting the slipper/ spur so easily- that in turn means less broken diffs & driveshafts.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness
    I've never had much trouble with the drive shafts myself, only replaced my rears after a few years use recently- being gentle on the throttle as you accelerate rather than mashing the throttle always helps. if the slipper pads arent the aluminium ones, then thats a good upgrade to start with- those will give you much better control over the slipper setting without worrying about melting the slipper/ spur so easily- that in turn means less broken diffs & driveshafts.
    The slipper pads are stock. Does that mean the aren't alumin? I am getting a bit of metal and plastic shavings inside the slipper clutch cover. So RPM's stuff is all plastic. Is that better than going aluminum?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    For a-arms the rpm are great as they give when needed, aluminum arms bend and then are garbage.

    Stay away from Integy, RD Logics, GPM for structural parts.

    Good rule of thumb: plastic on the corners, and aluminum down the middle.

    RPM a-arms, & Traxxas TRX#5334R carriers(has the steel pillow ball retaining rings), plastic body mounts.

    Aluminum for chassis braces, bulkheads, and shock towers.

    Traxxas, Great Assembly, New Era, FLM, ACNCM for bulkheads, and chassis braces.

    FLM Shock Towers

    UE KnuckleHead Shock Towers
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Im not sure what pads the emaxx BL edition comes with these days- if you peak inside the cover & behind the spur, you should see them though- if they look like dark browny-grey material, then they are the graphite pads ( or whatever that material is )- they suck abit. You can get the metal pads easily enough, just look up the part number from the erevo BL & hit towerhobbies, buytraxxas, ebay etc.

    So many aftermarket parts out there, it'll make your head spin looking at all the options; upgrade as required really- sounds like bulks and towers will be your first purchases. UE towers are great, as are FLMs, for bulks I'd look at FLM, Traxxas or NewEra; I have extensive links to all the major & many smaller retailers & manufacturers on my website, so if you see a brand mentioned, chances are its listed on my site or can be locted via google-foo:

    http://robotwars.00server.com/trucklinks.html

    Have fun
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the responses and the links AOD. It appears the pads of the slipper clutch are steel.

  11. #11
    RC poster
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    Don't feel bad. Im less than 30 runs and already had to replace tires (one tore), 3 yokes, 1 axle, and not possibly gears in the tranny. Oh im on my third body too.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Yeah..the maxx needs some upgrades from the start..I did FLM towers, center cvds, 1/8th buggy shocks, lipo, and alum bulks, and I havent broke anything in a month :O
    EMBE/ Savage X
    x2 BL slash
    Ultra lx1e

  13. #13
    RC Racer
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    7 runs and only 2 breaks, not bad!
    formerly 1bigemaxx, now more nitro than not!

  14. #14
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    Wow. I'm wondering if I should have gone with my other choice. The Savage Flux HP. Are they prone to lots of breaks as well? I heard they were a tougher truck.

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by emtae
    Wow. I'm wondering if I should have gone with my other choice. The Savage Flux HP. Are they prone to lots of breaks as well? I heard they were a tougher truck.

    Ifyou dont have much RC experience it doesnt matter what truck you get, if it has a mamba monster speed control and castle creations motor you WILL break stuff......tame it down and practice...

  16. #16
    RC Enthusiast
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane Hoffman
    Ifyou dont have much RC experience it doesnt matter what truck you get, if it has a mamba monster speed control and castle creations motor you WILL break stuff......tame it down and practice...
    Well I am practicing and right now with only the NiMH 8.4 volts that came with the truck. I'm afraid to see what happens when I get the lipo's in. I will wait a bit for those.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    If you are jumping, then it can take some time and a few broken parts to get good at landing the jumps. Monster trucks are great because the large and relitively heavy wheels and tyres allow you to have some control in the air (throttle brings the nose up, brake takes the nose down). However, the flip side of that is that when you land at a funny angle, or upside down, there is a lot of weight and stress put on the parts.

    I would suggest following Army of D's advice in terms of parts, and maybe do a seach for Popoxx thread on his bashproof build.

    As for the jumping, maybe try approaching the jumps a little slower. If you do the run up at about 60% throttle, and as you hit the ramp go to full throttle (depending on grip), it should ensure that you leave the ramp nose up. As I said before, you can then use the brake or stay on the throttle to adjust the angle of the truck in the air. You want to aim to land on all four wheels at once, or the rears just before the fronts. Remeber that when you land, you need to be off the throttle to avoid damaging the drive line.

    Hope that helps.

    Any pics of your homemade ramp??
    Last edited by eemmaaxxxx; 09-22-2010 at 05:02 PM.

  18. #18
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    Well I decided to throw the lipo's in. Whole new ball game there. I broke the wheelie bar very quickly. I was suprised at that. I just broke the rear shock tower today. I have to admit though this truck has been through a lot. It's done more cartwheels than an olympic gymnast. The body is in pretty bad shape but so is my wifes.The rest of the truck is holding up. (unless it's all getting weak and I will have 5 breaks at once) So I guess it's not as bad as I thought it would be. I was getting used to jumping it with the NIMH but the lipo's take some getting used to.I have RPM A-Arms on the way and I guess I better get some good shock towers as well. Gotta love this hobby.
    Last edited by emtae; 09-24-2010 at 08:07 PM.

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