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  1. #1
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    Slash 2WD Upgrades?

    I just got a slash 2wd new in the box from a buddy with a traxxas 7 cell and charger for $75 from a friend.

    I'm now looking to make it faster for bashing around my house both street and offroad.

    From reading the threads here it looks like the Mamba Max Pro ESC and Velineon motor seem to give people the least amount of trouble and is pretty quick.

    What gearing will I have to run with this combo?

    Any other upgrades i should be looking at? The proline powerstroke shocks look nice.

  2. #2
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    you can try the stock gearing, just keep an eye on the temps of everything and adjust accordingly. the traxxas big bores are a nice upgrade as well. and anything rpm makes for the truck!!
    rustler vxl 2.4

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply. How do you check the temp? With a heat gun? If possible I would like a recommendation for gearing that people have used and had no problems.

    I did buy some RPM parts already.

  4. #4
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    you can get a temp gun almost anywhere, here is the one i have,

    http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html

    i paid about 16 dollars and change shipped.
    rustler vxl 2.4

  5. #5
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    So I should trying the stock gearing?

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    IMO..RPM arms are a must. OR you could go with the pro track kit from proline..but for pure durability..I would trust RPM more. Aluminum shocks/caps are a nice upgrade..I'd go with the Big bores..Are every bit as good of a shock as the power strokes IMO. Aluminum on the 4 corners is nice to (Castor blocks, bearing carriers), RPMs front skid plate is a great upgrade..which prevents the bellcranks from popping out like it does on the stock setup. Also, steering bearings (Or aluminum cranks..which usually come with bearings) are a nice improvement to.
    EMBE/ Savage X
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  7. #7
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    4X4 bellcrank + RPM front skid = magic.

    I highly recommend aluminum caster blocks with RPM bearing carriers. The stock bits in the front will be sloppy from wear within a dozen runs.

    I'm running 17/83 gearing on mine (Velineon) and temps are good, despite running 1/8 wheels and my truck weighing about a pound more than stock. 18/86 is another good choice if you want a little more torque off the line.\

    For shocks, the Traxxas big bores are a lot of shock for the money. If you have PowerStroke money to throw around, you may as well pick up a set of Losi 8ight (race, not RTR) shocks (actually costs a little less than a set of PowerStrokes) and have the ultimate in overkill shocks.

  8. #8
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    The Proline Kit is Easily as durable as RPM stuff. Keep in Mind that the Proline kit is only Towers, arms, turnbuckles rims and rear carriers. It doesnt come with front axle carriers or Caster blocks. I use RPM carriers/Caster blocks and (for me) that works good with the Proline Kit. Now, the biggest problem I have is bending Carrier pins in the front suspension. I also bend axles from time to time. I only run my car on the track, which CAN be brutal sometimes, but some of you Bashers are doing some Crazy stuff in Skateparks and I gotta believe you guys are bending a lot of pins throughout the suspension.......What do you do to remedy That?
    I also like the Traxxas big bores on the track. Seemed like a Big improvement to me,,,,,well worth the extra weight.
    Last edited by Redharris; 10-17-2010 at 03:49 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vandals909
    So I should trying the stock gearing?
    ya, id try the stock gearing and do a trial and error, until you find the right gearing for you.
    rustler vxl 2.4

  10. #10
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    Let me know if i'm missing anything

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext

    http://www.rchobbies4life.com/servle...on-3500/Detail

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPHD9&P=7

    Anything else i will need to make the mamba max and velineon combo fit in my 2wd slash? Should it be faster the a new 4x4 slash with vxl system on a straight away?

  11. #11
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    I don't see anything else you'd need.


    You might or might not beat the 4x4. It has the traction of all four wheels,

    but the 2wd is lighter (accepts higher gearing with less stress= more speed)

  12. #12
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    the only other thing you will need is a battery connector of your choice.
    rustler vxl 2.4

  13. #13
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    What do you guys recommend for a connector? If someone could provide me with a link would be great.

    Only battery I have right now it the traxxas on it came with but the charger also came with this adapter

    http://pics.towerhobbies.com/imagel/t/ltrac3061.jpg

    I plan on getting a lipo once it all installed

  14. #14
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    link didnt work, but we all know what it looks like, id stick with the traxxas connector,

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSDC4&P=ML

    you wont need that adaptor anymore, except for chargeing(i think), but here are the male connector's if needed as well,

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSDC2&P=M

    make sure you put the male on the charger and the female on the battery.
    rustler vxl 2.4

  15. #15
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    Why is the Mamba max better then the vxl esc?

  16. #16
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    Oh and for the BATTERY CONNECTOR I will need one that comes out of the ESC and then the battery hooks upto it right? The ESC doesnt come with one?

    Can you post a link to which battery connector I will need?

    Thanks again!

    Anyone recommend a certain lipo 2s or 3s which would be better for reliable bashing.

    also was looking at a hyperion charger

  17. #17
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    in the end your might end up like mine
    Vxl
    Big bores
    RPM Rear tower
    RPM front Bearing Carriers
    Outlaw chassis
    Dx3r Radio
    RPM Rear A arms
    RPM Front tower
    RPM Front A arms
    RPM Rear bearing carriers
    RPM Rear bumper
    RPM Mudflaps
    REM Alloy Tranny case
    Slash 4x4 bell crank
    Front Sway bar
    E-maxx 3905
    outlaw RPM VXL Slash
    summit

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    If you want to stop bending front steering pins go with aluminum castor block and bearing carriers. This will solve your bent pin problems. RPM plastic is too soft in these areas, it flexs, which is good to prevent breaking, but it ends up flexing so much the pins bend. Go with aluminum and you wont have any more issues.

    Also, the protrac kit has held up to everything ive been able to throw at it... ive bashed with it every bit as hard as my RPM setup (arms and towers) and have not had one problem. In my books, the Protrac stuff is equally as durable as RPM.

  19. #19
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    I would suggest the STRC hinge pins! They capture with nuts so they will not back out. They are also stronger.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer
    If you want to stop bending front steering pins go with aluminum castor block and bearing carriers. This will solve your bent pin problems. RPM plastic is too soft in these areas, it flexs, which is good to prevent breaking, but it ends up flexing so much the pins bend. Go with aluminum and you wont have any more issues.

    Also, the protrac kit has held up to everything ive been able to throw at it... ive bashed with it every bit as hard as my RPM setup (arms and towers) and have not had one problem. In my books, the Protrac stuff is equally as durable as RPM.
    Shouldn't some of the parts in your suspension have a certain amount of give in them? Personally, I'd stay with RPM parts because, while they are plastic, they are supposed to be stronger than stock but still be able to break when it is appropriate and prevent other things from breaking...like the chassis etc.

    Just my opinion.

    But of course, I wouldn't mind having a Slash Ultimate Titanium version with a chassis and suspension made completely from Ti-6Al-4V. Personally, I'd pay a ton for that model.
    Last edited by imfast; 10-19-2010 at 08:34 PM.
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  21. #21
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    what is the stock gearing on a brushed slash?

    If the mamba max pro and velineon combo starts to overheat on a 2s 500mah lipo which way should I go with gearing. One tooth down on the gear on the engine or the larger gear?

    Lastly which charger would you guys recommend? I was thinking Hyperion Ac/Dc 0606 or ac/dc 0720 is the 0720 worth the extra money?

  22. #22
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    Stock on the XL5 (at least the way mine came) is 19/90. I first recommend changing to 32p gears. Your MMP + 3500 + 2S combo is essentially the same setup I bash with, and I ate a number of 48p spurs. The "stock" gearing in 32p is 12/56, and I run 13/56 (slightly geared up) to keep motor heat down. At 12/56 I would hit max rpm too fast and build up excess heat.

    If you stay with 48p, I'd recommend 18/83 or 19/86. The 90 won't fit under an RPM gearcover (an extra point for 32p, no gearcover needed.)

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by brushlessbandit
    I don't see anything else you'd need.


    You might or might not beat the 4x4. It has the traction of all four wheels,

    but the 2wd is lighter (accepts higher gearing with less stress= more speed)
    also to add to this. the same amount of power going to extra wheels will slow your accleration.. so 2wd wins, gets off faster than stays at the same speed <IMO>
    You should probably just keep the stock gearing because it is the "all around gearing" set-up and works well for the Vxl.
    something to remember...


    smaller spur=more speed, more heat
    larger pinion=more speed, more heat

    larger spur=more torque, less heat
    smaller pinion=more torque, less heat

    I also used to think that you should go with all RPM to have a little "flexage" in the pins area, I stilll had pin bends but less frequent until... i tried something new and got aluminum castor blocks, steering blocks, and rear axel carries with RPM A-arms and Alum. shocks
    i havent broken anything yet(in that area)
    its even strong enough when i let my friend drive my slash in a mailbox only hitting the front right side at 40mph i tore a screw right out of my bulk head and didnt break anything else
    Last edited by hurley747; 10-27-2010 at 04:35 PM.
    Yes, I drive an electric converted Nitro Hawk.

  24. #24
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    Ok I have everything bought, besides a charger. Which charger do you guys recommend? If possible I would like to keep it under $200 and want an AC/Dc charger.

    Was thinking either Hyperion 720I or hobbypeople recommended prop peak sigma. Lastly triton eq 2.

    what do you guys think?

  25. #25
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    i like the looks and the price isn't to bad of the triton chargers. and they wil charge just about size battery you will ever need!!

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXVRS6&P=K
    rustler vxl 2.4

  26. #26
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    I have some big bore shocks and while they are good durable shocks a better option is getting Strc aluminum threaded bodys and caps, then Traxxas TiNi shafts. You end up with a quality aluminum threaded shock with a bigger bore then the big bore and cost is comparable.

    Rpm arms vs protrac kit isn't a fair comparison. Who cares if Rpm is a bit more durable, they don't offer any improvemet over the stock setup besides durability. The protrac kit just makes the truck better. I have broken one Protrac arm but that was the result of a full speed crash with the front right wheel into a big rock. The crash put a 90 degree bend in my shock shaft and turned my hinge pin into an S.

    For chargers check out *******s Accucel 6, good charger good price.
    www.thunder-roadhobbies.com
    Moline, IL

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Federally
    I have some big bore shocks and while they are good durable shocks a better option is getting Strc aluminum threaded bodys and caps, then Traxxas TiNi shafts. You end up with a quality aluminum threaded shock with a bigger bore then the big bore and cost is comparable.
    Same shocke set-up havent bent a shaft or had a cap pop off
    Yes, I drive an electric converted Nitro Hawk.

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