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  1. #1
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    Highest Temp For Motor and Esc

    Does anyone take temps while running there ERBE mamba monster...

    I am going to be using in a small area, dont want to fry it.

    What is the highest temp for both the motor and Esc?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    180*F for motor & esc, ideally 120-160*F
    140*F for lipos, ideally 100-120*F.

    If you dont have an IR temp gun, grab a cheap one off ebay etc ( dont need to spend much ). If you already have one, point it at the bullet connectors on the esc & inside the case at the fins to find the highest reading and use that as the overall temp- point it all around the motor to find the highest temp ( tends to be more evenly heated )- same too with the batts.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  3. #3
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    i got a temp gun from harbor freight for 17 bucks shipped!! money well spent!!
    rustler vxl 2.4

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness
    180*F for motor & esc, ideally 120-160*F
    140*F for lipos, ideally 100-120*F.

    If you dont have an IR temp gun, grab a cheap one off ebay etc ( dont need to spend much ). If you already have one, point it at the bullet connectors on the esc & inside the case at the fins to find the highest reading and use that as the overall temp- point it all around the motor to find the highest temp ( tends to be more evenly heated )- same too with the batts.

    really?....that low??

    I'm always hitting 200-210* motor and 175-185*ESC...

    Good thing I have extras
    http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp138/TANKS250/

  5. #5
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    Extras wont help if you run those at the same high temps- you really need to look at your setup and see why its running so hot; perchance you could list the details?

    batts
    motor
    esc
    tyres
    gearing
    terrain
    driving style
    ambient temps

    I have a feeling you must be geared to the moon & running offroad with a heavy rig...
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  6. #6
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    Yeah, that motor won't last much longer. What batts are you using, what terrain are you on, and what is your gearing?
    _____________________
    ERBE/RUSTY VXL/ALIAS

  7. #7
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    200 INSIDE temperature is what damages the magnets.. if you have 200 on the outside, the rotor will already be much hotter.

  8. #8
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    What I find funny is that Traxxas on other motor/esc builder state to never go above 200F wich I find a reasonable limit. But at my job we have many thing that use 600V electric brushless motor and some of them are working pretty much 24/24 5 or 7 day a week and constantly run 240 or 280F and work fine since years (I know I checked them with a temp gun I was wondering cause they were really hot). I don't know if there is magnet that can wistand higher temp but I do think that if they use them is 500-1000$ big industrial motor why they wouldn't use them in a 200$ Mamba Monster motor that is probably 10 time better quality of those industrial motor considering it's size and price.

    Actually I do think that stopping at 180 is a good limit but I don't think my motor will fry or demagnetize if it get once to 210 or 205F.

    Also to answere the main question,
    I like to keep my motor in the 140-160 range and I have to get higher temp than that. My esc must alway be under 150F because I've never heard my fan kick in as I can remember.
    No pain! No Gain!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mc-Roux
    What I find funny is that Traxxas on other motor/esc builder state to never go above 200F wich I find a reasonable limit. But at my job we have many thing that use 600V electric brushless motor and some of them are working pretty much 24/24 5 or 7 day a week and constantly run 240 or 280F and work fine since years (I know I checked them with a temp gun I was wondering cause they were really hot). I don't know if there is magnet that can wistand higher temp but I do think that if they use them is 500-1000$ big industrial motor why they wouldn't use them in a 200$ Mamba Monster motor that is probably 10 time better quality of those industrial motor considering it's size and price.

    Actually I do think that stopping at 180 is a good limit but I don't think my motor will fry or demagnetize if it get once to 210 or 205F.

    Also to answere the main question,
    I like to keep my motor in the 140-160 range and I have to get higher temp than that. My esc must alway be under 150F because I've never heard my fan kick in as I can remember.
    Small brushless systems have rare earth magnets, Also Aluminum housings,
    and spin up to 60,000 RPM for the 2200 in your ERBE.
    That big cast iron brushed motor at your work I am guessing spins maybe 3000-4000 Rpm and the magnets do not spin as in a brushless motor.
    Run you MMM over 200 you will kill it very fast as the rotor is way hotter than that.
    Last edited by RcPocketRocket; 10-26-2010 at 09:04 AM.
    havnt failed I just found 1000 ways that wont work

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TANK'S 250
    really?....that low??

    I'm always hitting 200-210* motor and 175-185*ESC...

    Good thing I have extras
    I think it was BrianG (sorry if the wrong member) that was saying 200*f on the can, is another 10*F inside the motor. Thats hot to quote Paris. You might be hitting 220 in the motor??
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RcPocketRocket
    Small brushless systems have rare earth magnets, Also Aluminum housings,
    and spin up to 60,000 RPM for the 2200 in your ERBE.
    That big cast iron brushed motor at your work I am guessing spins maybe 3000-4000 Rpm and the magnets do not spin as in a brushless motor.
    Run you MMM over 200 you will kill it very fast as the rotor is way hotter than that.
    As I know brushed motor are no more used in Industrial and anything is Brushless now. The only brushed motor I've seen at work was on a very old maybe 30 years old big milling machine and was like 40 inch diameter and the machine is not working it need to be rebuilded but we sold in and were going to buy a new one instead. But of course it's cast iron and it's probably not the same thing. As for RPM it depend, some of them do spin fast (20k range) and other spin slow (1,7K to 6K).

    I still prefer to keep my motor in the safe temp range but I don't think that exposing the motor once or twice to a 200-210F temp would mess hit. But better be safe than sorry I guess.
    No pain! No Gain!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness
    Extras wont help if you run those at the same high temps- you really need to look at your setup and see why its running so hot; perchance you could list the details?

    1. batts
    2. motor
    3. esc
    4. tyres
    5. gearing
    6. terrain
    7. driving style
    8. ambient temps

    I have a feeling you must be geared to the moon & running offroad with a heavy rig...
    1. Tunigy 5800mah 30c 6s lipos
    2. Whatever comes in a 2010 brushless E-Revo
    3. Whatever comes in a 2010 brushless E-Revo
    4. GS Storm SUT Truggy tires, Bowties,LPR Prolines(they were about the same temps)
    5.18/54...the gearing you recommended
    6. mostly street, with the occasional run through 50' of grass(cut).
    7. mix between speed runs and bashing, ...sometimes they are nonstop runs for 5 minutes
    8. 85-95*
    http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp138/TANKS250/

  13. #13
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    1. cool
    2. 1515 2200kv, cool.
    3. MMM, cool.
    4. 5.8" or there abouts, fair-dos.
    5. 18/54 = 54mph
    6. hmm
    7. hmmmmmm
    8. I want your weather...

    I would guess its the continual runs that is heating up the esc and motor- 54mph gearing on 6s lipo isnt insanely high like I was worried about, but its not the sort of gearing you use for continual bashing or speed runs; gotta check temps more often and allow the temps to cool down as required for 5 or 10 minutes. Great opportunity to check for loose screws and such.

    18/54 on 4s lipo is good for 40mph, so on 6s Im thinking maybe drop back down to 18/62-65 or something like that- still very fast but the temps should be alot safer for continual use. Might be worth checking your gear mesh too while you;re at it just incase its a bit tight and causing excessive drag.
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmyofDarkness
    1. cool
    2. 1515 2200kv, cool.
    3. MMM, cool.
    4. 5.8" or there abouts, fair-dos.
    5. 18/54 = 54mph
    6. hmm
    7. hmmmmmm
    8. I want your weather...

    I would guess its the continual runs that is heating up the esc and motor- 54mph gearing on 6s lipo isnt insanely high like I was worried about, but its not the sort of gearing you use for continual bashing or speed runs; gotta check temps more often and allow the temps to cool down as required for 5 or 10 minutes. Great opportunity to check for loose screws and such.

    18/54 on 4s lipo is good for 40mph, so on 6s Im thinking maybe drop back down to 18/62-65 or something like that- still very fast but the temps should be alot safer for continual use. Might be worth checking your gear mesh too while you;re at it just incase its a bit tight and causing excessive drag.

    I think it's the constant running...but I'm still getting close to those temps with the 4s 50c Lipos. I don't plan on running 6s anymore...I like the 4s way better....I just got to get these temps under control.

    BTW- You DO NOT want my weather.....this is what it looks like in summer time.



    http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp138/TANKS250/

  15. #15
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    With 6s and the 2200kv motor, there really isnt a whole lot you can do to tame the heat. With 4s I like 20/56.. With 6s I gear for about 70mph lol (really) The motor seems to run cooler with a load on it. But its not good for the esc.. Best thing to do for big volts, is get a big motor

  16. #16
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    so you think 20/56 will lower my motor temps?.....

    ...I can never remember,...will 20/56 raise or lower my speed over 18/54?
    http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp138/TANKS250/

  17. #17
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    ^^

    It will be a little faster

  18. #18
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    For whatever reason these big motors generate alot of heat with high rpms. They like to be worked, but not overworked, and not racing around at high rpm. Your 18/54 gearing sounds fine on 4s so it's probably your higher ambient temps adding to the heat issue. You could try gearing up to see what happens and add a heatsink like KD sells or the Castle blower.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TANK'S 250
    so you think 20/56 will lower my motor temps?.....

    ...I can never remember,...will 20/56 raise or lower my speed over 18/54?
    I think it would make it worse. Since your running 4s now it should be fine. It probably was the constant speed runs back and fourth. For 65$ you could get the 1518 1800kv motor and be done with heat issues on 6s.
    Terry
    X3-RC8T/X2 ERBE/Losi SCTE/SC10 4x4/Baja 5SC/Rusty

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divey1130
    I think it would make it worse. Since your running 4s now it should be fine.
    It was for 4s

    For 6s Id throw more gear into it, but mainly because I dont run in the grass, at all.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeagent
    With 6s and the 2200kv motor, there really isnt a whole lot you can do to tame the heat. With 4s I like 20/56.. With 6s I gear for about 70mph lol (really) The motor seems to run cooler with a load on it. But its not good for the esc.. Best thing to do for big volts, is get a big motor
    What are the ill affects this may have on the esc? I'm geared 20/54 for 6s and my esc fan stays on constantly these days. I run with the body off so i know it stays on. The MMM is top of the line right? Or is there something better for 6s?

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    MMM & Tekin Rx8 are both top of the line, anything else for 6s lipo is either Chinese Hobbywing stuff ( XERun 150amp ), or european designs based on boat controllers ( MGM & Schulze ).

    You could look at getting the MMMXL when it's released shortly- rated for 8s and ~150amps so will run ice cold on 6s and pulling the same current on a higher rated controller that it be. 20/54 with 6s is pretty high- for speed runs you should stick to on-road and take cooling down breaks every few passes, or gear down for offroad ( could always get the 1518 motor while its on sale for $65- much better for constant 6s use ).

    Running the motor and esc so that they are hot constantly will shorten their lifespan in simple terms, the cooler you can get your setup running the longer it will last
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