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  1. #1
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    Flywheel very hard to turn

    Hey Guys I have a T-Maxx 3.3 that I have not used in a few years. Upon busting it out for some fun I put the EZ start on it and nothing happens. With the EZ start unplugged from the truck and pressing the starter button the green light does come on but as soon as I plug it into the car the green light immediately shuts off, no starter motor spin. After reading the manual about the piston getting stuck I tried to turn the flywheel. It was stuck at first but after getting it to move a bit it is still very hard to turn with a lot of resistance.

    I guess my 2 questions are if anyone can help is:

    1. if the green starter light comes on does that mean the batter is definitely good? is it possible to have a green light and a bad battery?

    2. How hard should the flywheel be to turn? I am thinking I might have to rebuild the engine just to clean the cylinder if it is all gummed up.

    I have only used the truck about 6 times and did complete the break in but I think my son used it a while ago and left gas in the tank because I found some yellow thick sticky residue in the tank that I had to clean out.

    Thanks for your time and any advice will be super appreciated.

    Joe

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Tear apart the engine and clean it up. Replace the fuel lines and clean out the fuel tank and carb. Put it back together using a light oil to coat the internals so that the piston will move more freely when starting it up.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
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    Not sure about the engine, but if the battery was low then normally it will light up when pressing the button w/o it plugged into the truck, but will dim/shut off when it is plugged into the truck.

  4. #4
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    Okay well I guess from the sound of it I think I am going to do a rebuild and get a new battery just to play safe.

    Thanks again.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Put it back together using a light oil to coat the internals
    Not trying to sound stupid but light oil as in wd40?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe2101 View Post
    Not trying to sound stupid but light oil as in wd40?
    I'm pretty sure that would work, in the manual they normally tell you to put after run oil or wd40 in the engine after running it so ya I think wd40 would work

  7. #7
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    The flywheel should be hard to turn by hand if you have compression left in your sleeve.

    Quote Originally Posted by joe2101 View Post
    Not trying to sound stupid but light oil as in wd40?
    That doesn't sound stupid. Yeah, there are a few stupid questions here and there, but most of the time the maxim, that the only stupid question is the one not asked, is true.
    Oh where'd you go, Joe DiMaggio?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Wd40, Marvel Mystery Oil, after run oil, will all work.

    Just be sure to get any sticky fuel residue out of the engine and clean it up good.

    I would also suggest marking your flywheel at BDC {Bottom Dead Center} so its a quick roll it around to the mark when you are done for the day.



    Last edited by Wildman4910; 11-16-2010 at 04:53 PM.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I don't think you need to tear the entire engine down, but you'll need to flush out the gummed up oil residue out of the engine. You can shoot some WD-40 down the throat of the carb (make sure the intake valve is open), wait an hour or two, then turn the engine over by hand. The solvents in the WD-40 will free up the engine. Then drain the WD-40 by removing the backplate. You may need to "lather, rinse, and repeat" to get it spinning freely. Then remove the HSN and LSN from the carb and clean the residue off. Make sure the o-rings are in good shape, then re-assemble and set the carb back to factory base settings. FLush the tank out with fresh fuel, fresh plug and give it a whirl.
    Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

  10. #10
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    Dang! All you guys ROCK!!! This is without a doubt the best forum I have ever been on. The amount of replies and willingness to help out is amazing. Traxxas should know the asset you guys are to their company since this level of help will always make be buy a Traxxas.

    I removed the engine from the chassis and when I took the exhaust off I immediately saw the sticky goop in the block. I followed the directions on this site for the engine tear down and when I got up to removing the flywheel I couldn't get it off by hand so before I got out the bigger tools to gain more leverage I checked this thread and saw @ARCEEGUY's post and was glad the flywheel was being stubborn because like he suggested, why not try to flush it out before I take it all apart. Thanks @ARCEEGUY.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    I would also suggest marking your flywheel at BDC {Bottom Dead Center} so its a quick roll it around to the mark when you are done for the day.
    Another Great idea just confirming what I stated above!!!

    I will let you know how I make out.

  11. #11
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    Well I tried to just flush out the engine but there was way to much gunk inside to I started tearing it apart. I could not believe the amount of crap inside the block. It looked like little balls of yellow gum. As of now I have everything out except for the 2 crankshaft bearings and the one inside bearing has all those little gummy balls in between the bearing balls themselves. I want to clean it out but can not manage to get the bearings out. I used a hair dryer which worked on the cylinder to get it out but the bearings just don't want to budge.
    Any Ideas???


  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I wouldn't worry too much about the remaining gummy residue. When you get it started, the heat from running along with the fresh fuel will clean it out just fine. Your engine looks pretty good considering the way it was stored. I've come across much worse engines!

    If you really want to get it spotless, a can of automotive brake cleaner spray will dissolve the remaining casor oil gum.
    Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by arceeguy View Post
    I wouldn't worry too much about the remaining gummy residue. When you get it started, the heat from running along with the fresh fuel will clean it out just fine. Your engine looks pretty good considering the way it was stored. I've come across much worse engines!

    If you really want to get it spotless, a can of automotive brake cleaner spray will dissolve the remaining casor oil gum.
    Sounds great to me, thanks for the advice. I am on my way to put it back together now.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Make sure the O-rings on the backplate and the carb base are in good shape and I think you'll be rippin' around in no time.
    Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

  15. #15
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    I just had quickly read your post and didn't see that you wrote the truck had been sitting there for a while. I meant that there should be some resistance as you turn the flywheel and the piston gets towards the top of the sleeve if you have pinch left in the engine. But gunk in the engine is a whole different story.
    Oh where'd you go, Joe DiMaggio?

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