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  1. #41
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    He said he is going to be out of town, so I dont think the thread is dead just yet

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Oh heck no. Im in Quebec till tuesday... but the pede is SUPPOSED to be at my door today. My wife is going to pick it up so its waiting for me when I get home. Remember, I live in canada. When tower ships me a truck it take 10-14 days to arrive. I am NOT patient but what choice do I have. I even have all the parts organized into groups and a plan of attack for the install. Hopefully, later this week ill get to installing and posting up the pics.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Oh heck no. Im in Quebec till tuesday... but the pede is SUPPOSED to be at my door today. My wife is going to pick it up so its waiting for me when I get home. Remember, I live in canada. When tower ships me a truck it take 10-14 days to arrive. I am NOT patient but what choice do I have. I even have all the parts organized into groups and a plan of attack for the install. Hopefully, later this week ill get to installing and posting up the pics.
    Pav If you buy from your LHS you could have faster then tower like me it arrive last tursday and if you are in Québec you should come try my stampede !
    Stampede 4x4 1415 1Y 2400kv, 4S 5200 30C

  4. #44
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    RAVIN:


    I gotta know man, how hard was it to put that MMM combo is that truck? I just ordered a second Pede4 (roller) that I plan on doing a custom build up on. My plan was Revo 3.3 tires/rims, new servo, and a MMM with an 8th scale motor like you did.

    I just wondered how much custom work, etc. went into actually sticking that motor on there.
    Parts are cheap...glory lasts forever.

  5. #45
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    Ok good I was really worried. Ha really looking forward to this build
    If it ain't dirty get it dirty

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by samintrepid View Post
    Pav If you buy from your LHS you could have faster then tower like me it arrive last tursday and if you are in Québec you should come try my stampede !
    well i know here the LHS wants 650 dollars for the stampede 4x4 and i am so not going to pay that for a pede 4x4. and i wouldn't be surprised if its the same with pave's LHS
    Race-bred SSC 4x4
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  7. #47
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    I don't know where you are but any LHS I have been in around me I haven't seen them higher the $460cdn. And one of the big online retailers has it for 419.99cdn and in stock.
    Last edited by revolt0; 12-20-2010 at 06:03 PM.

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I got mine for $350 shipped plus $35 duty... $385 CDN all in. No tax... If I had bought from my LHS I would have paid $420 (at BEST... my local LHS wanted $480) plus tax.... needless to say, i wanted to spend my extra money on upgrades, not the truck.

    But, great news. Im leaving for home tomorrow morning and my wife picked up the truck today from the post office. Ill get some pics up by wednesday at the latest and ill be starting the teardown/rebuild on wednesday as well.

  9. #49
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I think he may have to get the truck to complete the thread lol.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Alright guys. Ive been home from Quebec for literally 15 minutes. Gave the wife a kiss, the dog a scratch and dug into that long awaited box from tower. I realize unboxing pics are rather unexciting and youve all likely seen all this before. But im going to start this build from the very beginning... and getting out of the box is step one. Heres the pics:



    Ive got some rebuild pics coming in a few minutes. The wrench hit the truck in less than one minute after getting it unboxed... can you tell im excited.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-01-2011 at 11:58 PM.

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    I know you are excited but I am surprised you are not going to run your truck in stock form at least once. Without dong that you have no base line to clearly know how your upgrades helped your truck.
    BlindMan Racing
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  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    I know you are excited but I am surprised you are not going to run your truck in stock form at least once. Without dong that you have no base line to clearly know how your upgrades helped your truck.
    That was exactly my thought! If it was me, I couldn't resist running it! upgrades can wait!

    But if you must, you must. Pave, is this what you do to all the ATVs that you test? Upgrade them and hide the upgrades, then do crazy stuff with them? Haha! Just a joke....
    Can you break a Rusty?
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  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I hear ya... but I really could only afford this project if I get good money for the parts I sell... most importantly the power system and the radio and they are worth more if they are completely unused. Im not really concerned about how good it is stock anyway. I just want it to be as good as it can be. On top of all that... theres like 4 feet of snow on the ground right now. I couldnt get a good feel for the truck if I ran it all day long.

    Heres tear down pic one. Ive removed all the electronics so I can put the radio and power system up for sale. Im keeping the servo as a spare and im keeping the body... just because I like it. The tires and wheels are staying as a pavement set but im contemplating letting the body mounts and all the other parts go... not %100 sure yet. Heres the no electronics pic:
    Last edited by pavmentsurfer; 12-21-2010 at 07:33 PM.

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    O.K., put in a few more hours...

    Chassis and front/rear clips separated and all the chassis parts removed:


    Front assembly complete including RPM arms, shock tower, body mount and bumper. TRX castors and carriers and big bores:


    Rear end complete including RPM arms, shock tower and body mount as well as TRX carriers and big bores:


    Heres the left over pile of parts so far. Its going to get bigger as I strip off all the chassis components as well:


    Just to cover off some install notes, I had NO issues installing ANY of these parts. They all fit exactly as they should with no dremeling or trimming or binding of any kind. The shock guards mount to the RPM arms perfectly with no issues. Basically, anything that fit on the slash 4X4 will clearly mount on the Pede 4X4 without any problems. Next up is tackling the chassis and power system install... which is the biggest and most involved part.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-01-2011 at 11:59 PM.

  15. #55
    RC Champion dave00bear's Avatar
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    Looking good there Pavment!

    Will be watching the build and looking fwd to the end results
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  16. #56
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    Pavment what is the front bumper it look big an di need one???????
    stampede vxl 4x4
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  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    The front bumper is an RPM 4X4 slash front bumper. It is BIG and its beefy... I use one for a 2X4 slash on my 2X4 pede and its amazing.

    Did a tiny bit more work this morning before I headed to my real job... found out some interesting info. The Hot Racing dual slipper kit will not work on a pede 4X4 (or I assume a slash 4X4). the rear slipper plate is too big. Its the size of a revo slipper and its too big. They do make a smaller one thats supposed to fit on the 2X4 trucks so I may try that.... not sure if its really any better anyway. Just thought that was interesting info.

  18. #58
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    theres like 4 feet of snow on the ground right now
    That is a bummer. You've got a nice build going here, and it's going to be June before you really get to drive it. It's definately coming together. I like it, basic and functionable.
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  19. #59
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    I hear ya we've got 2 ft in Iowa. I never like doing upgrades in the winter because you don't have as much of a feel of how much bettervthe truck performs
    If it ain't dirty get it dirty

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    In reality, the only upgrades im doing that will actually make the truck perform better are the motor and ESC... the suspension parts are all just durability focused. Most of the chassis upgrades and driveline upgrades (King headz mount and things like that) are all durability as well. If I do ever want to, I could just put the VXL system from my 2X4 pede in the truck to compare it to the MMP/2650 combo. I can do that next spring... or I guess I could do it this winter since its all waterproof. Maybe thats what ill do. Get the whole truck built up and finished, then install the VXL system so I can take it outside and run it.

  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I was wrong, the hot racing dual slipper DOES fit. I was just not getting things lined up right. This is a good thing too as I think the 2650 is going to be hard on slippers without an upgrade.

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Have you started your body? What's the plan for it?
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Oh man, I gotta retract my last statement... or re-unretract it, so to speak. The Hot Racing double slipper setup does not work correctly. The back plate of the Hot Racing part sits down further on the slipper shaft so when the whole unit is installed the slipper nut runs out of threads before the spring can be compressed... I suppose you could use 2 springs if you wanted and this would likely solve the problem. I may try it down the road. But for now im just going to run the stock slipper and see about a work around on the HR parts.

    The body is a Hummer SUT body, I havent touched it yet. I couldnt paint it because I couldnt get the mounting holes drilled without the truck setup... so as soon as the truck is together, that will be my next project. Im going to do a really simple 2 tone paint scheme... not exactly sure what colors yet. Ill have to see whats in stock. Maybe something with some yellow... I dont have anything yellow. Ill keep posting pics as I make progress... family christmas tonight took up all my time and my dremel is out of batteries so the motor instal may have to wait till tomorrow.

  24. #64
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    looks awesome so far! can't wait to see it finished!
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  25. #65
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Heres another update. Got some hours in today and managed to get the chassis modded to accept the 2650 motor, got the driveshaft shrink wrap installed, put a tiny bit of shrink around the slipper side driveshaft input thing... I also had to do a tiny bit of dremeling to the chassis where the ESC will sit so the ESC and on/off wires and the tiny fan wires werent getting pinched between the ESC and the chassis. Now it sits in there like it was meant to. My motor wires are too long and I will fix that... but im getting a soldering station for christmas so ill wait till then to do that repair. Ive decided to use the stock 2075 servo for now as ive been advised that its not any slower than the HS 645MG I bought and the 2075 is digital where the 645 is not. So, im just going to use it. Heres some pics:

    Chassis after the modding:


    King Headz Motor mount installed... I think this part not only provides a larger bearing to prevent failures but its also metal where the stock one is plastic and this area of the chassis looks like it could flex under load (especially with a motor this heavy) so I think overall this was a great upgrade in this truck:


    Shrink wrap on the drive shaft and driveshaft end:


    Finally, the motor installed (with mess properly set) geared 18/54. The 2nd pic is of a light mod I had to do to the driveshaft cover to clear the motor... no big deal. Finally, the last pic if of the ESC just set in place for now. But this is how it will all look and gives you an idea of how much room there is... or isnt. The ESC will need a plate under it to raise it up about 3mm... this is to clear an angle on the chassis at the rear of the servo that can not be dremeled away. its not an issue... jsut something I thought id point out.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-02-2011 at 12:00 AM.

  26. #66
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    Lookin good. I bet this thing is going to be an animal. Got a name for it yet?
    If it ain't dirty get it dirty

  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Heheh... may be "precious" .... but seriously... no. I dont really name my trucks. I just call this my 4X4. Im working on cutting the body now. I got the wheels/tires on and its looking sweet. I have noticed the big bore shocks seem to have no fluid in the front... I mean, they do... but it feels like it may be 10 wt or something. They have no resistance. They are brand new big bores. Im going to take them off and simply refill them with 50wt. Just to be sure. Hopefully by tomorrow night ill have it all ready to go... just need to fix the wires and itll be done. Ill post pics when I get the body roughed on.

  28. #68
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    umm IMO this truck is going to be really heavy so i would put some 70 or 80wt in that beast for sure and i would recommend harder springs if you don't have any yet
    Race-bred SSC 4x4
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  29. #69
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Its actually not much heavier than stock. The only heavier parts ive installed are the king heads mount and the motor. The motor is heavier for sure, but the ESC is a bit lighter (maybe enough to make up for the king heads mount). The extra weight of the motor is also closer to the centre of the truck so overall, its balanced quite well. Right now, the big bores in the rear (from a slash platinum) have whatever oil them come with stock (i think 35wt) and arent really all that bad. I think 50 is going to be good. But, if its not, I have some 60 I can throw in there.

  30. #70
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    Why did you put the shrink wrap on the drive shaft end? Just curious.

  31. #71
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    Good job,I just took my 1512 out and put my tekin 4030 1400 kv in,I run it on 6s it's geared for around 40 and it's a blast your gonna love it,

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Heheh... may be "precious" .... but seriously... no. I dont really name my trucks. I just call this my 4X4. Im working on cutting the body now. I got the wheels/tires on and its looking sweet. I have noticed the big bore shocks seem to have no fluid in the front... I mean, they do... but it feels like it may be 10 wt or something. They have no resistance. They are brand new big bores. Im going to take them off and simply refill them with 50wt. Just to be sure. Hopefully by tomorrow night ill have it all ready to go... just need to fix the wires and itll be done. Ill post pics when I get the body roughed on.
    Aww man come on it gives you and your truck a bond. I do it with all my rc's and real cars
    If it ain't dirty get it dirty

  33. #73
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    The shrink wrap keeps the rocks and dirt out of the driveshaft.

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan93civic View Post
    The shrink wrap keeps the rocks and dirt out of the driveshaft.
    I can see that on the front area where the drive shaft enters the chassis. But why have it at the back end of the drive shaft?

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by indyoung View Post
    I can see that on the front area where the drive shaft enters the chassis. But why have it at the back end of the drive shaft?
    NVM. Just read on Pavements other thread that he was going to do it to remove some of the slop in the drive shaft.

  36. #76
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Hey guys, yeah, you got it... I didnt like how much slop there was so I put maybe 1cm of shrink on the slipper spline. Seems to work the way I wanted.

    Heres some pics of the truck with the body and wheels installed. The body needs paint still... maybe after Christmas ill get to that.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 01-02-2011 at 12:00 AM.

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    Oh man, I gotta retract my last statement... or re-unretract it, so to speak. The Hot Racing double slipper setup does not work correctly. The back plate of the Hot Racing part sits down further on the slipper shaft so when the whole unit is installed the slipper nut runs out of threads before the spring can be compressed... I suppose you could use 2 springs if you wanted and this would likely solve the problem. I may try it down the road. But for now im just going to run the stock slipper and see about a work around on the HR parts.

    The body is a Hummer SUT body, I havent touched it yet. I couldnt paint it because I couldnt get the mounting holes drilled without the truck setup... so as soon as the truck is together, that will be my next project. Im going to do a really simple 2 tone paint scheme... not exactly sure what colors yet. Ill have to see whats in stock. Maybe something with some yellow... I dont have anything yellow. Ill keep posting pics as I make progress... family christmas tonight took up all my time and my dremel is out of batteries so the motor instal may have to wait till tomorrow.
    Put in some aluminum pads, they hold pretty good. Or get a R&R slipper, I can vouch for them. They work great if you don't mind having a steel spur.
    Jones
    Having too much fun!

  38. #78
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    It looks good with the body sitting low. IMO the stock body is mounted way to high. Badlands, what a suprise! LOL They're my favorites too!!!!!
    Jones
    Having too much fun!

  39. #79
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    Good job on whatyou have so far it should run as good as it looks
    when you paint the body with the two-tone it will look amazing
    "Duct tape and superglue are my spareparts"

  40. #80
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    quick ? how much do the RPM body mounts lower the body in comparison to the mharris mod.
    Drive it, Break it, Fix it, Love it, Repeat

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