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  1. #241
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Im starting to think that MIP'z my not be the best idea if i'm gonna run 2s. I wonder if the torque rims are gonna take the pressure of the metal shafts and axles or, will they start snappen left and right too. I'll get them if they can take it but, right now, i'm only 3 rims deeps sense day one. As for shafts/axles/outdrives, I have only been through 6 or so total from day one. I broke every corner once and now im working my way back around lol. You think that MIP could be to much for a bash p4de? I see the need if you run sick torque that just twists shafts as you punch it but my slipper setting has been kind to the drive train and I still get wheelies on demand.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  2. #242
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    Yeah, you really are geared for some higher speeds. 15/54 on 3s with the 2400 gave me 50mph, the same that 10/54 with the 3800 on 3s gives me. I'm now pulling around 45, with 13/54 on 2s, of course my Trenchers are expanding a little No matter what kind of speed you are geared for, running them on mix matched voltage, will always favor the higher voltage setup, for performance. The 10/54 should be geared for the same speed on 3s, as the 15/54 on 2s, with the 3800, you might try that.
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  3. #243
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I just might... not a bad idea, though im not unhappy with the truck at all right now. Provided temps continue to stay the way they are I think I may just drop to a 14t pinion... maybe ill get a tiny bit of low end smoothness back. Otherwise im very happy with how its working.

    If 15/54 on 3S gave you 50mph with the 2400... I must have been sitting around 55 or so... maybe a bit higher geared 18/54 on 3S with the same motor... no wonder it felt so fast.

    To Dreaded... I think the MIPs are definetely the way to go... the way ive been running since installing them, id have been through numerous stock shafts for sure... havent even seen ANY wear in the MIPs... eventually im sure they will wear out... but buy the time that day comes I can only imagine how many stockers id have destroyed. Also, I had issues with bending axles on my stock shafts... the MIP's have taken way harder hits and nothing is bent.. for me, thats almost a bigger deal than the shafts themselves. With a set of torque rims, I think this setup will be mint. Im going to order another set of torques and badlands... I only have one set now and theyre on my 2X4.

  4. #244
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    I pulled the trigger on a Castle Creations 1/8 Mamba Monster ESC what motor would you with after testing 3 basically the 2400kv or 3800kV or the 3650kv?
    You are running the 1/8 Mamba Monster still? Did you swap out the ESC with each motor?

  5. #245
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Im running the MMP ESC... the Mamba Monster ESC is going to be SUPER big... and difficult to fit in this chassis.

    As far as a motor, the 2650 is pretty big and requires modifications to the chassis... its got TONS of power and is a great motor but its heavy and... honestly, not as good as the 2400kv 4 pole motor. The 2400 on 3S is what I prefer... it worked great for me geared 18/54. Its feel like it has even more power than the 2650 (which it should) but its substantially lighter and smaller and requires far fewer mods to get it to fit. The 3800 motor is also excellent and on 2S is more than enough for this truck. Ive paired all of these motors with the MMP ESC and it really is the perfect ESC for this truck. The 3800 on 2S would be an excellent setup, the problem is you cant buy the 3800 motor and MMP ESC as a set. So, if you want to do some one stop shopping id go with the MMP/SCT with the 2400 motor... run it on 3S and hold on tight.

  6. #246
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    I ordered the Mamba Monster ESC since I have seen how simple it is to water proof the ESC.
    It will be here in a few days. (I'll find some other use for it)
    Looking for MMP/SCT with the 2400 (looks like e-bay is the only place)
    Thanks,
    Pavmentsurfer

  7. #247
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Pave, im enjoying this pro/3800 combo so much! I've decided to through a 2400 in my sl4sh mt and start pounding on 3s. Im ordering a pair of 3s to use with the 2400. The MMP seems so smooth I don't want to give it up. To me, its worth waiting out the wet weather and getting more out of the dry time I do have to bash.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  8. #248
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Just bought a set of D8 Shocks... gonna try them on the 4X4 first, if they dont fit there I know they'll fit on the 2X4 but the guy I bought them from had them on a slash 4X4 so im sure they'll fit. $75 is a pretty good deal I think... ill post pics when they arrive.

  9. #249
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    Good choice on the D8 shocks bro pave. I just got them install on my pede 4x4. They feel SO MUCH more solid than my Losi-ten-t shocks. Have't got a chance to try them out yet as I am still waiting for my MIP shafts from Ebay.

  10. #250
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    did you need to do any tweaking or did they just bolt right on? Any extra parts needed? Glad to hear they work good... im looking forward to trying them.

  11. #251
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    They fit just right onto our towers & arms. Esp the top mount, you may need to find some old plastic parts that can fit in through the hole & screw them on the tower with little gap to allow smooth movement. Other than that everything seem to be there like stock. I am using 67mm Red for rear & 60mm Blue for the front. It feel just right when pressing it with my hand.

    Point to note: I bought the standard front & rear D8 shock. When building them, i use some fuel line tube & place them over "inside" the shock shaft to "shorten" the travel as to create the same overall length as the stocker shock.

  12. #252
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I got the D8 shocks and it appears there needs to be a spacer at the top or the spring rubs on the camber link in the front. Im working on finding a spacer but im not in a huge rush to install these just yet. I did FINALLY get my 2400 motor put back together with the new 5mm replacement shaft from Castle. I have a stock chassis I was running the 3800 in and a "cut" chassis that fits the 2400 motor. I swapped chassis tonight and put the 2400 motor back in teh truck. Man, I like this setup on 3S SO much better than the 3800 on 2S. Its all personal preference but I feel so much happier now. I should be able to get out tomorrow for my first good bash session with this truck since the big rebuild.

  13. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    I got the D8 shocks and it appears there needs to be a spacer at the top or the spring rubs on the camber link in the front. Im working on finding a spacer but im not in a huge rush to install these just yet. I did FINALLY get my 2400 motor put back together with the new 5mm replacement shaft from Castle. I have a stock chassis I was running the 3800 in and a "cut" chassis that fits the 2400 motor. I swapped chassis tonight and put the 2400 motor back in teh truck. Man, I like this setup on 3S SO much better than the 3800 on 2S. Its all personal preference but I feel so much happier now. I should be able to get out tomorrow for my first good bash session with this truck since the big rebuild.

    Did you try the 3800 with 3s? I don't see that much difference between the 2400 and 3800 both on 3s geared for the same MPH.
    Had-> MERV, ERBE, Stampede 4x4

  14. #254
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Yup, I tried both with all gearing... I just like the power delivery of the 2400 more. Again, its personal preference. Its just a feel thing.

  15. #255
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Man, I just ran the 2400 setup on one of my new 5200mah 3S 40C SPC packs and WOW... this thing is just STUPID fast. Like literlly... STUPID... I cant even hit 3/4 throttle because the tires are going to shred apart. I have it geared 18/54, which I know is super high... I was running that gearing in the winter when it was cold and the motor was staying below 100... its 24 degrees here today and the motor hit 170 so im going to drop down a few teeth on the pinion... I LOVE this motor on 3S...

    I just cant believe how much power this system has when paired with a sweet battery like this SPC. It just roosts dirt and wheelies at ANY speed... Im glad I went with the X-Duty CVDs as theres NO way stock shafts would live in this setup.

  16. #256
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    Finished off the 3S pack tonight and temps were hovering around the high 170's... too much for my liking. I got home and started taking the truck apart to re-gear and realized I dont have many 5mm 32p pinions to choose from. Lots of 1/8 32p pinions but I only have 2 5mm... an 18 (which is what I WAS running) and a 13... which is just a bit too small for my liking. I wanted a 15. So, instead I put in a 50t spur and the 13t pinion. I WAS running 18/58 which is a ratio of 3. Now, at 13/50 my ratio is 3.84... almost 1/3rd lower. Ill run that on 3S and see how it works. Fitment IS an issue with this gearing. Especially with the 2400 motor. I had to grind out more of the driveshaft cover to get the motor low enough to mesh the gears. But, it does fit now. I may not get a chance to run it for a few days since the weather is supposed to be crazy wet. But if it breaks and dries up a bit ill head out for a run.

    Im going to loosen off my slipper a hair with this gearing also... I had it set really tight before and it was next to impossible to keep the front wheels down. Im wondering if maybe a centre diff would be a good idea in this truck with this much power. The front wheels are off the ground so much now its actually harder to drive than my 2X4... when they do touch down theyre spinning so fast it shoots in that direction. I have a centre diff I could try... but I think the smallest spur I have is 52t for it. Which may be better anyway with the 13t pinion... ill run it first and see. Stay tuned.

  17. #257
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. thedreadedend's Avatar
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    Pave, tell me a bit more about those 3s from SPC. I ordered another Promatch 3s only because of the hard case. It has great power and im sure the SPC does too but, how do you feel about the soft case? Do you feel you can bash just as hard with no extra concern? Do you pad out the battery tray? I've had a few front impacts that damaged my hard case so, I have concerns about the soft from SPC. They have a great price tag but its all for nothing if my pack goes up in smoke do to compression dents or a puncture. lol. If you can bash it, I feel confident I can too but, I don't want to buy a chance or a gamble, I need to know the money is applied to a long lasting product. I love SPC but, I wonder why the 3s isn't a hard pack too.
    I'm not a hatchet man! I'm a maggot!

  18. #258
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. asheck's Avatar
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    Cells should not be able to move inside a hard case. They should either be attached to the case, or padded , so that they can not move. Anything else is trouble waiting to happen.

    I've never had any trouble with any soft lipo's, and they are what I'll be running from now on.

    Pinions, a major reason I like the smaller shaft.
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  19. #259
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I LOVE these 3S SPC packs... honestly... they are just insane and I havent even got them broken in yet. They fit EXTREMELY tight in my 4X4... not tight in that they dont fit correctly, they fit EXACTLY in the battery tray end to end. There is some excess space down the sides of the pack that I pad with foam... but front to back they just lock in there tight as a bug in a rug. Im not worried about a hard case 3S at all... These packs are built tough and as long as they are fit in the vehicle correctly there should be no problem with them moving around. Im trying to keep my skate park bashing to a minimum these days as its just too hard on the trucks. Im trying to find more places with natural dirt jumps with dirt landings. If I had a good skate park with some tables or more mild jumps id go for sure but the park we have ONLY has a spine and a quarter pipe... arguably the 2 worst jumps for an RC and broken parts.

    asheck... im not worried about pinion selection really... I have a bore reducer so If I DID buy a new pinion for the 5mm and REALLY wanted to run it on a 1/8... I still can. But I have all the 1/8 pinons I need... I just need one or two more 5mm 32p and ill be set with the 4X4. I think a 15 and 16... then I have the 18 for when its colder out. Thats enough... this truck is so versatile with this power system, if i want to go slower, I can just run a 2S lipo (still extremely fast)... if I want more speed... 3S it is. I think im going to go to a 15/54 ratio next and that SHOULD be good enough to run full 3S packs without worrying about heat at all... If I DO end up needed some more cooling I can always throw on the blower fan...

    Heres an interesting observation though, I run a hot racing motor mount plate with the 3 little heat sinks on the top... when the motor was 170... the heat sinks were 160. Id say they do help to dissipate heat. Without more air moving under the hood im not sure they really do ALOT... but the fact they get hot means they are working the way a heat sink should. Just thought that was interesting.

  20. #260
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    Wow, incredible thread.... I learned a lot.... But then it just ended..

    Hope all is going well up North and everyone is still running !!

  21. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    I didnt look into servos much. I really dont have a problem with the 2075 but I actually had this Hitec servo sitting around and since the rest of the truck isnt going to be waterproof I figured the metal gears would be better than the plastic in the 2075. If its too slow or doesnt work the way I want ill just go back to the 2075 and look for a better digital servo. It seems there are really 2 price ranges... the $35-40 metal gear, high torque... then you gotta jump up to spend $80-100 for a digital... right now I just dont see the need for a $80 servo. But your right, if I do get a new one... itll be a good one.
    The 2075 is actually a pretty good servo. I bought a spare to keep because mine didn't seem to be steering like it used to and I thought it might be going. However, I changed out the connecting links to the wheels as the rod ends were sloppy. Instant steering response like new after that! And I'm running 3.2 Revolver wheels with heavy tractor tread tires (more dog bite proof) on 17 mm hexes, so it's doing a big job for 10 months now without a problem. And it runs daily on a 65 ft. long oval track in the front yard, so it does a lot of turning. I didn't want to give up the waterproof feature anyway.

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