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  1. #1
    RC Champion djmaincheese's Avatar
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    2S Lipo's got old real quick!!

    Took my Spartan to the Lake for the first time today and after 2 full throttle runs, my Spartan was begging for 6S Power.
    It was like driving a dodge viper at 35mph, it just wasn't right lol.
    Time to look into some 3S Lipo's. Anyone using the Venom 6400mah 35C?

  2. #2
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    *******
    The **** packs made by them are the best by that brand
    Last edited by JPriami; 01-04-2011 at 09:04 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by djmaincheese View Post
    Took my Spartan to the Lake for the first time today and after 2 full throttle runs, my Spartan was begging for 6S Power.
    It was like driving a dodge viper at 35mph, it just wasn't right lol.
    Time to look into some 3S Lipo's. Anyone using the Venom 6400mah 35C?
    You can always try a bigger prop on 4s
    First MiniSlash
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  4. #4
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    is the 25-50c 5000 mah battery from ******* worth it? or should I wait for the 45-90c 5000 mah battery to come off of backorder?
    Justin

  5. #5
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    those are good, but the higher C rating is always helpfull
    but the 25C is decent and is much much better than Nimh any day of the week..
    First MiniSlash
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  6. #6
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    Will you really notice the difference between a 20C and a 35C 3S Lipo battery while running this boat? Lets assume its a 5000 to 8000mah battery at this point. Its been highly debated in the Slash 4x4 forum whether it's beneficial to get the higher "C" rating for the that truck. I would think from all the reading that I've done that I could assume that the larger the battery cell count the more power it puts out at the same C rating. 2S 7.4v vs. 3S 11.1 and beyond. I don't know what to think.

  7. #7
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    i had a traxxas employe tell me that I shouldnt get anything below 35C for this boat. So I ordered 11.1v 45C 5000Mah packs for it. That was a few months ago now. So ive been waiting a loooooong time. At least i was still able to use the packs in my other boat a few runs before it got cold.
    Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict

  8. #8
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    The **** tech packs r the best but have been backordered for awhile. 40c 5000mah 3s packs in stock. I hope to get some **** techs 45c packs also, hopefully avail at us store soon. Higher c rating means packs won't heat up as much and last longer. 20c packs will work but will work harder and heat up more and wear out faster. My 02 cents


    The slash doesn't draw as much amps as the Spartan so a higher c pack isn't needed but always better to buy higher c if u can afford it. I run 5000 mah 40c 2s venom hard packs in my slash and they barely get warm after a very hard run.

  9. #9
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    The Venom 2S 40C hard pack batteries are what I run in my 4x4. Had to send one back because the case was cracking where they have been out of those specific batteries so I asked them to replace it with a 6400mah 3S 20C around the same price. I've never notice my 2S batteries ever change from room temp whether i'm running them or charging them.

    Specs of the venom 3S 20C 6400 battery:

    Configuration: 3S2P
    Charge Rate: 1C (6.4A)
    Continuous Discharge: 20C (128A)
    Max Burst Rate: 30C (192A)
    Watt Hours: 71.04

    How many amps does the Spartan pull continuously? I thought if you got a battery that delivered at least 100 + amps then you where doing good.
    Last edited by Freelanceshots; 01-04-2011 at 07:11 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freelanceshots View Post
    Will you really notice the difference between a 20C and a 35C 3S Lipo battery while running this boat? Lets assume its a 5000 to 8000mah battery at this point. Its been highly debated in the Slash 4x4 forum whether it's beneficial to get the higher "C" rating for the that truck. I would think from all the reading that I've done that I could assume that the larger the battery cell count the more power it puts out at the same C rating. 2S 7.4v vs. 3S 11.1 and beyond. I don't know what to think.
    you are 100% correct..
    this boat will run good on a 20c pack but like trucks the higher the C rating the better
    boats pull more continuous amps vs cars and trucks
    and yes, you will notice the difference between 20c and 35c packs
    First MiniSlash
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  11. #11
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    Has anyone seen what amps this boat pulls when you're accelerating? I thought I saw somewhere where it listed the continuous amps that the spartan would pull and it was under 120 amps. I could be way off but that's what I was gauging it by.

    I would like to see a Traxxas employee/super marshal/internet police chime in and give us the facts as it relates to the motor input and output kind of like in the format of the battery specs I gave. If a boats motor won't pull more amps then the battery can give out at a moment in time then there is no reason to spend the extra money beside the point that the battery might last longer, stay cooler and not gain resistance as quickly over time meaning the a 50C battery has more room to drop then a 20C battery. If the Spartan's motor only pulls more power then the estimated 110 amps for brief moments then most batteries should be able to deliver the higher bursts when called on. Just depends on how high the needs are. Better to make informed decisions in my book then waste money guessing or assuming. If money was not an issue I'd buy the new 200C batteries

    If you could, would you take a 20C 6400mah 3S or a 35C 5000mah 3S battery???? Power vs. run time
    Last edited by Freelanceshots; 01-04-2011 at 08:36 PM.

  12. #12
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    Alright just saw where TRXEngineering replied on another post "On 6S the ESC is pulling very close to 100A." Seems like with this response there is no need to get a battery that provides a higher C rating besides the benefits that I mention earlier. So the Continuous Discharge: 20C (128A) battery is more then enough to run this boat with optimum performance where there should be no big difference seen running a higher more expensive 45C or 60C. I'm I still wrong?
    Last edited by Freelanceshots; 01-04-2011 at 09:03 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Champion djmaincheese's Avatar
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    It would be great if all we need are 20C because those Venom 6400mah 3S Lipo's would be perfect at a great price. Longer run times too.

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    I don't know if all 20C 3S lipos produce a constant 128A but the Venom 20C 6400mah battery does as stated on their site and printed on the battery. I'm not a battery engineer or a electronics guru but with what TRXEngineering stated it looks like this boat will not be pulling much more then 100A when using 6S.

    This reply from TRXEngineering was found in the (Specs, we need specs!) post.
    Last edited by Freelanceshots; 01-04-2011 at 09:41 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freelanceshots View Post
    Alright just saw where TRXEngineering replied on another post "On 6S the ESC is pulling very close to 100A." Seems like with this response there is no need to get a battery that provides a higher C rating besides the benefits that I mention earlier. So the Continuous Discharge: 20C (128A) battery is more then enough to run this boat with optimum performance where there should be no big difference seen running a higher more expensive 45C or 60C. I'm I still wrong?
    If this boat is pulling 100amps cont. and I know it will not, I would not run anything less than a 40C 5000mah pack
    and better yet 6s2p!
    because if this does pull than much cont. amps, runtimes on 5000mah packs ran to the 20% safety would only yield 2.4min!
    my guess is 45-50amps cont. on 6s with the stock prop
    you could get and this may be my direction is to get 5s 4000mah 20c packs and 6s 4000mah 20c packs ran in parallel
    that will give me 8000mah of fun and 160amps cont.
    First MiniSlash
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  16. #16
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    got the spartan running 11.1 venom 5400 mah made 3 100 yard half throttle runs 2 full throttle runs and battery gos into safety mode right out of the box brand new lipos and boat not to happy appr 4 min run time at full charge

  17. #17
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    New lipos need about 4-5 cycles on them before they start to perform their peak. Or that has been my experience. What charger do you have? How much mAh did you have to put back in the packs?

    Also I understand the boat has a temp sensor on the engine. Maybe that was kicking in? Just a thought. Not sure, speculation
    Last edited by JPriami; 01-04-2011 at 10:42 PM.
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  18. #18
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    I running dynamite 3s 25c 11.1v batteries, my run time is about 5 min before the motor goes into safe mode. Wait 10min. and then it is back to full speed. Is anyone having a simular problem?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayneman17 View Post
    I running dynamite 3s 25c 11.1v batteries, my run time is about 5 min before the motor goes into safe mode. Wait 10min. and then it is back to full speed. Is anyone having a simular problem?
    Welcome to the world of FE
    this is not really a proplem, just a fact that Brushless boats of this size pull a lot of amps and runtimes will be short, and possibly tripping the lvc
    after about 5min of runtime bring in the boat and check the volts of the packs to see where they are..
    letting the LVC reset to run again on the same packs, could cause battery failure!
    Last edited by filmmaker; 01-05-2011 at 11:10 AM.
    First MiniSlash
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by coastlinetrees View Post
    got the spartan running 11.1 venom 5400 mah made 3 100 yard half throttle runs 2 full throttle runs and battery gos into safety mode right out of the box brand new lipos and boat not to happy appr 4 min run time at full charge
    what is the C rating of your packs?
    I wonder what the LVC is set to on this esc?
    First MiniSlash
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  21. #21
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    is anyone checking temps after their runs?
    First MiniSlash
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  22. #22
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    I have the same problem with overheating. It will run fine for 5-6 minutes and then goes into safe mode. Allowed to cool 10 minutes, then it is fine for another couple minutes, and so on. You can tell whether or not its a heat issue by looking at the light on the reciever box. If it is blinking red it has gone into safe mode due to heat issue. When the ESC blinks red it is the LVC kicking in. I have been running Maxamps 6500 7.2v 60c, and SMC 5500 11.1v 28c, both with 10 plus cycles and still have issues. Called Traxxas support 4 plus times and could not figure it out, so the boat is on its way back to Traxxas to figure out why. By the way, customer support is top notch, thats why i continue to buy Traxxas models, and i'm sure they will figure it out.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by trxspartan View Post
    I have the same problem with overheating. It will run fine for 5-6 minutes and then goes into safe mode. Allowed to cool 10 minutes, then it is fine for another couple minutes, and so on. You can tell whether or not its a heat issue by looking at the light on the reciever box. If it is blinking red it has gone into safe mode due to heat issue. When the ESC blinks red it is the LVC kicking in. I have been running Maxamps 6500 7.2v 60c, and SMC 5500 11.1v 28c, both with 10 plus cycles and still have issues. Called Traxxas support 4 plus times and could not figure it out, so the boat is on its way back to Traxxas to figure out why. By the way, customer support is top notch, thats why i continue to buy Traxxas models, and i'm sure they will figure it out.
    how do we know it's really a temp issue if no one is temping the motor and esc?
    to me its sounds like the lvc is doing its job and not letting people jack their lipo packs
    First MiniSlash
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  24. #24
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    if we are having issues with temps during the winter months, there is no way we will be able to race these Sparts this summer...
    First MiniSlash
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  25. #25
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    Motor temps were 185-205 on 2s and sometimes more on 3s. ESC was almost cool to the touch, maybe 100-105 degrees. Also if you notice the temp sensor on the motor goes directly to the reciever, not the ESC. Customer support verified that blinking red light on reciver is motor over temp. It also states that in the manual. Only once i hit LVC which had blinking red light on ESC.

  26. #26
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    I think if your going to run 6S in these boats that it's a great idea to have a strut with bearings in it instead of the bushings. Bushings are cheap for production cost. And I thunk it's a bad idea to run/sell a high performance boat that uses bushings in the strut. Just my 2 pennies.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by trxspartan View Post
    Motor temps were 185-205 on 2s and sometimes more on 3s. ESC was almost cool to the touch, maybe 100-105 degrees. Also if you notice the temp sensor on the motor goes directly to the reciever, not the ESC. Customer support verified that blinking red light on reciver is motor over temp. It also states that in the manual. Only once i hit LVC which had blinking red light on ESC.
    185-205* on the motor is to much!
    keep in mind that even the rx will blink indicating the lvc is tripped
    it's in the manual
    First MiniSlash
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  28. #28
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    Another way that I am able to tell that it is going into safe mode due to the motor overheating is that it limits it to 25% throttle and the LVC is 50% throttle and you can tell. Just curious how many other people are having this issue. Mine has did this since day one. I hope traxxas will let me know soon what they find out as they should be receiving my boat today.

    Motor Over-Temperature Detection – The receiver monitors
    the motor temperature and reduces power to 25% when it
    detects a temperature that is above the normal operating range


    When the LVC kicks in the manual states: When the battery voltage begins to reach the minimum
    recommended discharge voltage threshold for LiPo battery packs, the VXL-6s
    will limit the power output to 50% throttle so you may bring the boat back to
    shore.

  29. #29
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    this is not good if they are heating up specially on 2s packs...
    check to make sure there is water coming out of the exit port on the side of the hull
    a good solid stream shoul be seen
    First MiniSlash
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  30. #30
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    There is definitely water coming out the side. What doesn't make sense is the ESC stays cool. Its almost like the water is too hot before it reaches the motor, there for doesn't have enough cool water to cool it down properly, just an idea. Guess I will have to wait to see what Traxxas says about it. Thanks for all the help.

  31. #31
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    Install another water pickup or Y one off and give the esc and motor their own separate supply
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by trxspartan View Post
    There is definitely water coming out the side. What doesn't make sense is the ESC stays cool. Its almost like the water is too hot before it reaches the motor, there for doesn't have enough cool water to cool it down properly, just an idea. Guess I will have to wait to see what Traxxas says about it. Thanks for all the help.
    Oh, it makes perfect sense really; feigao motors ( who OEM the vxl and spartan motors for traxxas ) are not the best quality nor the most efficient, hence why most real hard-core FE boat guys run Lehners and Neu motors- more torque and lower temps. I can see alot of guys switching to different motors if they are constantly getting temps in the 180-220 region; anything in excess of 180 is the danger zone and you are likely to demagnetize the rotor, leading to fried esc and batts if you get really lucky. A less agressive prop may help, but a better motor will make a world of difference to the temps- maybe just a lower kv and use 6s lipo for an all-round more efficient setup..
    Keeping the Mods busy is my specialty...

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by trxspartan View Post
    There is definitely water coming out the side. What doesn't make sense is the ESC stays cool. Its almost like the water is too hot before it reaches the motor, there for doesn't have enough cool water to cool it down properly, just an idea. Guess I will have to wait to see what Traxxas says about it. Thanks for all the help.
    you always want to cool the esc first then the motor
    First MiniSlash
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  34. #34
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    ya my spartan was sent back to hobby shop monday the owner called me back and said there gonna change the esc controller traxxas sent him one today the boat cannot recognise the lipos thats why it runs out of energy and goes into 25 perc mode. i know its heating up i and i truly dont think that there is enough water coming out too cool it the hose is very thin just try blowing thru it ,the hose itself seems to small for water to flow thru it. red light was blinking both times i tried it i disconnected the batterys and ran it again 10 min later on same charge and boat flew around two more laps then shut down again ..*** its winter and shes running hot all the videos of the boat are about 4 minutes long i think were all having the same problem over heating some one help traxxas ... has anbody run it on the batterys it came with

  35. #35
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    the water just dribbles out not enough cooling

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by coastlinetrees View Post
    the water just dribbles out not enough cooling
    dribble is bad at speed
    First MiniSlash
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  37. #37
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    it only comes out at half throttle and higher check yours there working on mine right know no solid anwers right know they thought its was the connects for bats and soldered it same result now there replacing speed control ecs will know by friday thanks for the help

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by coastlinetrees View Post
    it only comes out at half throttle and higher check yours there working on mine right know no solid anwers right know they thought its was the connects for bats and soldered it same result now there replacing speed control ecs will know by friday thanks for the help
    keep us posted bro!
    First MiniSlash
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  39. #39
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    I always do this now after owning several boats in my years. But if you by any type rtr check it over. And on boats since they rely on water to cool make sure you can blow thru the cooling lines (system as a whole) fairly easy and there are no obstructions or pinches.
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    I always do this now after owning several boats in my years. But if you by any type rtr check it over. And on boats since they rely on water to cool make sure you can blow thru the cooling lines (system as a whole) fairly easy and there are no obstructions or pinches.
    I like to run water through the system on all my FE boats, that way I can check for leaks to..
    First MiniSlash
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