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  1. #1
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    Spartan stuff that could help? just a little

    Got my Spartan today. After going over it Ive noticed a few little things.

    1. The flex cable barely had any thing on it. I mean it was pretty dry. They need to be greased or oiled. Not to much but just enough. None to very little. Not so good.

    2. There is a .28 (more than 1/4 of an inch) of an inch gap between the end of the strut and the drive dog. Im pretty sure thats way to much of a gap? There should be enough to allow for the cable to shorten a bit under a load. But more than 1/4 in seems too much. Im not sure about it for this boat. Just curious

    3. The running hardware as far as the rudder and turn fins. The edges are squared. Not sharp at all. I'm sure its a safety thing. But they should be sharp like blades. This will reduce drag by allowing them to cut through the water a little more efficiently. Less drag less the motor works to make the boat go, maybe less heat too.


    Thats about it for now. I just got the boat today. And im not feeling well, plus its hard to have the boat out doing things on it when my little 18mo old son just wants to be with daddy. he wants to grab the boat and start messing with it but I dont want him to hurt himself. I just noticed these things because he is taking a nap and I looked it over a bit.
    Last edited by JPriami; 01-21-2011 at 06:35 PM.
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  2. #2
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    I'm new to boats so what gap are u talking about? Drivedog and strut ??????? Photos..

  3. #3
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    Hey J
    I looked on the OSE site for some aftermarket turn fins but none they have match the bolt pattern of the Spartan. Im hoping we will have a lot of options down the road.

  4. #4
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    im taking mine off and sharpening them. same with the rudder. I have it off now. im going to go ahead and open up the inlet in the rudder too.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    Got my Spartan today. After going over it Ive noticed a few little things.

    1. The flex cable barely had any thing on it. I mean it was pretty dry. They need to be greased or oiled. Not to much but just enough. None to very little. Not so good.

    2. There is a .28 (more than 1/4 of an inch) of an inch gap between the end of the strut and the drive dog. Im pretty sure thats way to much of a gap? There should be enough to allow for the cable to shorten a bit under a load. But more than 1/4 in seems too much. Im not sure about it for this boat. Just curious
    3. The running hardware as far as the rudder and turn fins. The edges are squared. Not sharp at all. I'm sure its a safety thing. But they should be sharp like blades. This will reduce drag by allowing them to cut through the water a little more efficiently. Less drag less the motor works to make the boat go, maybe less heat too.


    Thats about it for now. I just got the boat today. And im not feeling well, plus its hard to have the boat out doing things on it when my little 18mo old son just wants to be with daddy. he wants to grab the boat and start messing with it but I dont want him to hurt himself. I just noticed these things because he is taking a nap and I looked it over a bit.
    The gap on the drive shaft is about perfect, you will need that room as not to break the shaft

    and gease up the shaft good..
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  6. #6
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    Before


    you can see the squared edges in above pic

    After


    Hard to see the blade edge of them now but is there. Also the opening of the water inlet is a little more.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun78 View Post
    I'm new to boats so what gap are u talking about? Drivedog and strut ??????? Photos..

    This is the gap between the strut and drive dog. the strut is what the flex cable is going into Shaun78 and the drive dog is the metal fitting the prop is resting in.

    I also installed some foam flotation onto the canopy. Incase it comes off I know it will float pretty well.
    Btw I noticed 2 holes near the top of the transom at the back of the boat that are under what the canopy rest on. Those looked like they would allow water to seep in the hull if it gets under the canopy.

    Just tested for leaks in the bathtub. there was water starting to come in from the back where the brass tube that houses the flex cable exits the boats transom. It can be fixed and not a big deal

    Wanted to ask do any of you have any deformities on the bottom of your hull? I have a few spots in mine I noticed as I was taking it out of the box.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2011 at 03:01 PM. Reason: merge
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  7. #7
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    yeah mine has a few dimples, and the graphics are uneven.

    things not related to hull!
    had to re bind the receiver,was suppose to be done from factory. had me real worried for a while i didnt really want to have to send it back to America.
    grease flex shaft, bone dry.

  8. #8
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    The two holes that are underneath the canopy are for draining water out of the boat and they work well.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmwilson09 View Post
    The two holes that are underneath the canopy are for draining water out of the boat and they work well.
    and all so for filling the hull when you flip

    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post

    This is the gap between the strut and drive dog. the strut is what the flex cable is going into Shaun78 and the drive dog is the metal fitting the prop is resting in.
    that is to much for my taste
    I would close the gap about 1/2
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2011 at 03:03 PM. Reason: merge
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  10. #10
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    I closed the gap up a little this evening on that. Had to trim a little off my flex cable but no biggie.

    Ive ordered a speedmaster dual pick up rudder.Just in case mine runs hot when I try the lipos I can come back and modify. I will have to trim it down a little but I'll have 2 separate lines for the esc and motor after I am done. I also ordered a longer aluminum cooling jacket for the motor. Also some larger cooling lines I can use on my other boats too. along with a few other goodies.
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    this will get you a little more volume over the pickup in the rudder
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRDF9&P=Z
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  12. #12
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    the other goodies I ordered were
    one of these under hull pickups. I might use for a water outlet on the side to look more like the stock one.


    2 of these I might use on my spartan it goes under the hull to be flush with it on the bottom. If I find i dont like the dual pickup rudder.


    the rudder I will modify


    and 2 of these I might use on my twin drive catamaran.


    Not saying this helps, But I changed out the connectors to 4mm gold bullets. It was so that I dont have different packs with different connectors. I can use these 3S packs in my cat when I want to go slow.


    Btw what are traxxas TRX plugs rated at? I seen one place saying 30amps. That's not enough for this boat if so. ???? Is it??
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2011 at 03:05 PM. Reason: merge
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    I closed the gap up a little this evening on that. Had to trim a little off my flex cable but no biggie.

    Ive ordered a speedmaster dual pick up rudder.Just in case mine runs hot when I try the lipos I can come back and modify. I will have to trim it down a little but I'll have 2 separate lines for the esc and motor after I am done. I also ordered a longer aluminum cooling jacket for the motor. Also some larger cooling lines I can use on my other boats too. along with a few other goodies.
    couldnt you have just loosened the grub screw on the drive dog and pushed it forward to close the gap?

  14. #14
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    Yeah I think I could have tried that. But now the shaft on the cable seems better seated in the strut. Instead of the flex cable rubbing the back of the strut bushing

    Just ran the spart with stock modified rudder. No heat issues with stick nimh packs. Then ran it on 6s lipos. No over heating issue. Only problem I had was water getting in the hull. Lots of water. Seemed worse after I ran on 6s. I'm guessing since I modded the stock rudder to take in more it's created so much additional water pressure that the silicon jacket on the motor I'd leaking. Good thing I have a new one that's metal on it's way.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2011 at 03:07 PM. Reason: merge
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    Just ran the spart with stock modified rudder. No heat issues with stick nimh packs. Then ran it on 6s lipos. No over heating issue. Only problem I had was water getting in the hull. Lots of water. Seemed worse after I ran on 6s. I'm guessing since I modded the stock rudder to take in more it's created so much additional water pressure that the silicon jacket on the motor I'd leaking. Good thing I have a new one that's metal on it's way.
    Did you just modify the intake on the rudder? Any bigger tubing inside the boat? How hard were you running it on 6s?
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  16. #16
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    I just modified the rudder inlet and outlet. I left the cooling lines the way they were same ones from factory. I seen others y off the tubing inside. But water will choose the least restrictive path and if the esc is that path not as much will go to the esc. And it will get hotter.
    I was running it fairly moderate but with lots of full throttle runs in a straight line.
    The temp is 40 deg here.

    The only things that were even slightly warm were the wires on the batteries and wires from the esc to the motor. Not the connectors but the wires.

    I honestly wonder about those trx connectors on this boat. Like I said I seen a website that said they are rated at 30 amps(I'm not sure how true that is yet). I think the boat draws more than that on 6s.
    Last edited by JPriami; 01-25-2011 at 11:34 AM.
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  17. #17
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    When everyone says to open up the inlet and outlet holes on the rudder....what about the channel inside the rudder ?? Does this need to be carefully drilled wider or something for more flow ??

    What about modding the rudder like everyone says....and solely make that line go to either the motor or esc...and add this to the other ?? http://www.rcplanet.com/AquaCraft_Tr...p/aqub9520.htm Do you think the spartan would have more than enough cooling ??
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-25-2011 at 03:08 PM. Reason: merge
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by yankphan View Post
    What about modding the rudder like everyone says....and solely make that line go to either the motor or esc...and add this to the other ?? http://www.rcplanet.com/AquaCraft_Tr...p/aqub9520.htm Do you think the spartan would have more than enough cooling ??
    That is exactly what I plan on doing, if, and when I decide to follow through with a purchase of the spartan.

    Separate inlet and outlet for the motor and ESC, as well as a larger cooling jacket for the stock motor.

    Although I'm still hoping Traxxas gets the issue sorted before I buy.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    Just ran the spart with stock modified rudder. No heat issues with stick nimh packs. Then ran it on 6s lipos. No over heating issue. Only problem I had was water getting in the hull. Lots of water. Seemed worse after I ran on 6s. I'm guessing since I modded the stock rudder to take in more it's created so much additional water pressure that the silicon jacket on the motor I'd leaking. Good thing I have a new one that's metal on it's way.
    thats odd!!!
    i have done the same to my rudder but it still over heated but i ran boat flat out as in the video.
    how big did you make the pick up hole? got any pics?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker View Post
    this will get you a little more volume over the pickup in the rudder
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRDF9&P=Z
    I've posted this before and this is a very cheap way to run a second cooling line to a V hull (mono) boat
    and with the rudder mod I've talked about, and running the rudder cooling to the esc and the extra water pickup to the motor will help keep things cool big time..
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker View Post
    I've posted this before and this is a very cheap way to run a second cooling line to a V hull (mono) boat
    and with the rudder mod I've talked about, and running the rudder cooling to the esc and the extra water pickup to the motor will help keep things cool big time..
    i like the look of this one less parts and one hole required
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/rc-boat-water...item3ca5b8b042


    http://kintecracing.com/Water_Cooling_BQFJ.html

  22. #22
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    yeah they look nice
    any transom water pickup I think is one of the first things I will do to help keep my Spart cooler
    and a mode we all should do
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  23. #23
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    Just ran again on 6S. Gps was about 40mph. With the weight of it up front. I'm sure it was moving faster with it out. Id say mid 40's. I tried a couple different props I had on hand. Stock one seems pretty decent really. I did some thrashing for several laps keeping it going with hard throttle pulls then brought it in asap to check temps. My motor was the warmest thing in the boat at a only 81 degrees.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    Just ran again on 6S. Gps was about 40mph. With the weight of it up front. I'm sure it was moving faster with it out. Id say mid 40's. I tried a couple different props I had on hand. Stock one seems pretty decent really. I did some thrashing for several laps keeping it going with hard throttle pulls then brought it in asap to check temps. My motor was the warmest thing in the boat at a only 81 degrees.
    Uhhhhhh, so you really think a 2oz gps is going to slow your 6lbs+ boat by 5mph?
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  25. #25
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    I did say mid to low 40's because I dont really know. but there was definite difference with the gps in the boat and it out of the boat. I guess I should add that the gps was in the front of the hull in front of the motor. the placement adding weight to towards the nose will keep the boat from coming out of the water as much. thus more wetted surface area on the hull. more drag. slower.
    But again I cant say an actual speed with it out. so I leave a nice range of possibilities. lol.
    Perhaps I see if I can fit it in the transom area so the weight is in the back maybe it would affect it less.

    just weigh the GPS on my digitals for my heli stuff.
    its 4.89 oz
    Last edited by JPriami; 01-25-2011 at 11:17 PM.
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  26. #26
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    i have orderd some stuff from this mob do they let you no when they have sent it? there is no way you can contact them?
    the only way you can contact them is to open a dispute with paypal but i dont want to do that just yet.

  27. #27
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    ordered stuff from what... mob?
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    ordered stuff from what... mob?
    Haha sorry kinetic racing o_0

  29. #29
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    I think there is an email contact on the site. I've ordered parts from them before with good results. Good person to deal with and would buy from again.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsta67 View Post
    Haha sorry kinetic racing o_0
    they are decent to deal with

    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post
    I did say mid to low 40's because I dont really know. but there was definite difference with the gps in the boat and it out of the boat. I guess I should add that the gps was in the front of the hull in front of the motor. the placement adding weight to towards the nose will keep the boat from coming out of the water as much. thus more wetted surface area on the hull. more drag. slower.
    But again I cant say an actual speed with it out. so I leave a nice range of possibilities. lol.
    Perhaps I see if I can fit it in the transom area so the weight is in the back maybe it would affect it less.

    just weigh the GPS on my digitals for my heli stuff.
    its 4.89 oz
    that small amount of weight could actually cause the boat to be faster

    just because we add weight DOES not mean a slower boat at all
    extra weight can be our friend
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-26-2011 at 07:12 PM. Reason: merge
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilsta67 View Post
    Haha sorry kinetic racing o_0
    I ordered a few upgrades for my Supervee's a few days ago. They e-mailed me to tell me a couple items were out of stock until mid week, and asked if I wanted a partial shipment, or, wait for stock and ship everything at the same time.

    Sounds like good communication to me, so I'm fairly confident all will be well.

    Kevin

  32. #32
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    Got my parts today. I modified the new speedmaster rudder and got it installed. ran the new larger lines, installed new water jacket on motor & added another water exit for the right side of the boat.







    Went to go test it out after doing it all. But I didnt get to run on 6S lipos today. But I did run on the stock NiMH packs. Ran at full throttle for several mins. Checked the temps and hit 51 deg F.
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  33. #33
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    Hands down awesome..... What exactly did you buy and modify for this. Please let us know the size tubing you used and what you had to do to the rudder...I have to do this !! Where can I buy everything for the mod ?? Part #'s ?? Thanks for your help...looks freakin' awesome !!
    Last edited by yankphan; 01-27-2011 at 07:07 PM.
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  34. #34
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    That looks great J, very nicely done.

    Obviously we all are anxiously holding our breath for you to report back on 6S performance.

    Is the new rudder longer than the stock rudder?

    I notice you have the boat sitting on top of your kit boxes, is that because you need extra clearance now?

    Kevin
    Last edited by dag-nabit; 01-27-2011 at 09:44 PM.

  35. #35
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    I hope to get a 6S run in tomorrow. I'll post how it goes and try to make a vid.

    I should also mention after replacing the silicon cooling jacket with the new aluminum one today. There was no water in the boat like the other times i have run. But I'll see if it leaks going faster tomorrow that will be the real test.
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  36. #36
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    Yeah the modified rudder is just under 1/2 inch longer than the stock traxxas one.
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  37. #37
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    also, i would get rid of the plastic (carbon) prop. there never balanced. unbalanced props can cause nasty vibrations.when i get mine i'm trying different prather stainless steel props. balance sharpen and polish best you can, it can make a world of difference.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTCRAFT View Post
    also, i would get rid of the plastic (carbon) prop. there never balanced. unbalanced props can cause nasty vibrations.when i get mine i'm trying different prather stainless steel props. balance sharpen and polish best you can, it can make a world of difference.
    Carbon props never need a balance or even sharpened
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPriami View Post



    Got my parts today. I modified the new speedmaster rudder and got it installed. ran the new larger lines, installed new water jacket on motor & added another water exit for the right side of the boat.



    Went to go test it out after doing it all. But I didnt get to run on 6S lipos today. But I did run on the stock NiMH packs. Ran at full throttle for several mins. Checked the temps and hit 51 deg F.
    I love the looks of that rudder!
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by filmmaker View Post
    Carbon props never need a balance or even sharpened
    Agreed, unless they are very poor quality, one plus of of FRP or Carbon props is that they are fairly well balanced out of the box.

    FRP or Carbon props are more prone to flexing than steel props.

    Kevin

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