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  1. #1
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    any one find a 1/16th rally... Rally conversion?

    Yeah so i bought this on the pretense (and assurance) that this was a ready made RALLY RC (god forbid if any one ever just makes one of these that works) and was sorely disappointed as its not... Being that it uses the Slash/MERV chassis i didnt think much as it made sense that a chassis designed for off road would, i duno... still work off road... Apparently not...

    TBH i already think the names a scam. Something that says Rally on the box shouldnt be a dedicated drift RC... But were gana forgive that for the moment...

    I'm wondering if any one has been able to get this thing to exert reasonable performance off the street, and if so what they did to make it happen. I've conjured up a few ideas but have yet to try them out.

    First up, is the tires need to go. The Slicks from the Ken Block model are straight drifts, i already knew THAT when i bought it and i figured i'd just buy new tires. I ordered a set of mini Slash tires at my LHS which SHOULD fit. I'm also thinking of removing the limiter inside the shocks, allowing me to raise the model even further, and maybe put harder springs in.

    What else should be done? I dont mind taking this car and going back to its roots, i just wana keep the rally body. My biggest motivation to buy it was i was looking for a rally car, and TBH i hate trucks. I'm not gana shelf it just yet as i've been trying to get a reasonable rally chasis to work for ages and, with recent life events, having a sub 10th scale is now a requirement and this looks like the best option.

  2. #2
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    I'm gonna be building up a slash to do the same thing. From what I've heard the slash tires with slash shocks is great. I'm sure you can just remove the limiters and get black revo springs. I can't tell you personally though until I do it myself. Let me know how it works out and post some pics and maybe vids

  3. #3
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    Hey i just slapped on some Slash tires and have tested it already. My initial thoughts... Amazing improvement. You now get all the speed, while still being able to kick it sideways for a very controllable power slide. They grip well enough so you wont lose it at speeds while not gripping so much as to flip the car. It takes some good throttle control but you can get some speedy turns out of it as it maintains its front end grip at much better speeds, and at higher speeds you can still get a very nice turn by power sliding.

    As an example, i was running parallel and i was doing some runs to test the grip. I was testing a 90 degree turn, using myself and a cup as turn point. I was able take the rally from full speed, and kick it sideways making the 90 degree turn within the 4-5 feet between me and the cup, and then take off again at full speed only losing maybe half of my over all velocity through the turn.

    This is with all stock configurations save for tightening the springs a bit. Some might not be impressed but it was a very quick turn, and i'll say again it maintained itself very accurately.


    Now, that being said, i also have a new set of shocks (the hard anodized teflon bodies with tin shafts), springs (dbl tan and dbl black, as per recommendation of the car guy) and extendable push rods which may be too small, all of which will be going on the RC very shortly.

    Before i put in the new shocks though, what would you guys recommend for offroad rally, 40(traxxas) weight or 60(losi)?
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 01-25-2011 at 11:05 PM.

  4. #4
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    Any pics? And I would go for the heavier weight!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChaosShadow00x View Post
    Hey i just slapped on some Slash tires and have tested it already. My initial thoughts... Amazing improvement. You now get all the speed, while still being able to kick it sideways for a very controllable power slide. They grip well enough so you wont lose it at speeds while not gripping so much as to flip the car. It takes some good throttle control but you can get some speedy turns out of it as it maintains its front end grip at much better speeds, and at higher speeds you can still get a very nice turn by power sliding.

    As an example, i was running parallel and i was doing some runs to test the grip. I was testing a 90 degree turn, using myself and a cup as turn point. I was able take the rally from full speed, and kick it sideways making the 90 degree turn within the 4-5 feet between me and the cup, and then take off again at full speed only losing maybe half of my over all velocity through the turn.

    This is with all stock configurations save for tightening the springs a bit. Some might not be impressed but it was a very quick turn, and i'll say again it maintained itself very accurately.


    Now, that being said, i also have a new set of shocks (the hard anodized teflon bodies with tin shafts), springs (dbl tan and dbl black, as per recommendation of the car guy) and extendable push rods which may be too small, all of which will be going on the RC very shortly.

    Before i put in the new shocks though, what would you guys recommend for offroad rally, 40(traxxas) weight or 60(losi)?
    Yeah well i'm not sure what you were thinking in the first place expecting it to perform offroad with drift tires...


    just sayin'...
    Are the tires supposta to blow off going into 2nd?

  6. #6
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    The OP is 100% correct saying Traxxas is misleading calling it Rally.

    There are videos all over YouTube of people trying to drive the rally as a rally car..

    Traxxas should def re-name it.

    That being said I still want one and will buy a real rally when traxxas releases it. The question is will they call it the Traxxas Drifter??
    Traxxas please sell kits!

  7. #7
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    With all do respect, the name "rally" is a bit mis leading. They should of just named it the Gymkhana, because the definition is gym·kha·na (jm-kän)
    n.
    1. Any of various meets at which contests are held to test the skill of the competitors, as in equestrianship, gymnastics, or sports car racing.
    2. The place where such an event is held.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by M5burndt View Post
    Yeah well i'm not sure what you were thinking in the first place expecting it to perform offroad with drift tires...

    just sayin'...
    Lol i was just playin with it while waiting on my slash tires. Quite honestly it didnt feel that terrible(note key words). It did run around though even with rough dirt and gravel... It was just more like T drifts rather then super drifts in comparison.

    Pics? yeah i got em. I'm actually tracking my progress/thoughts here on another forum. http://www.socal-rc.com/forum/showthread.php?p=137589#post137589 if you'd like to see.

    However this is how it looks:


    And i'm glad i'm not the only one who thinks calling it a rally is rather bogus.

    @Racer83L

    If you wana rally with a 16th scale, i'd say this thing with actual offroad tires really isnt that bad. Just remember that its not a 1/10th car and its ability to tread terrain is also scaled down. That being said i had some fun plowing through the gravel walk path, if you tune it up right it doesnt handle that bad at all, kinda like a real rally if i might say.
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 01-26-2011 at 10:21 PM.

  9. #9
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    Now that looks like a rally car. Nice man. Now i want those tires. You should try painting the red part green to match
    Are the tires supposta to blow off going into 2nd?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by M5burndt View Post
    Now that looks like a rally car. Nice man. Now i want those tires. You should try painting the red part green to match
    Excellent idea. I'll give it a whirl when i swing by the hobby shop again.

  11. #11
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    you forget that all the ken block propaganda/videos only show him on tarmac or highly compressed dirt for motokhanas. his adventures into real rally have seen FAIL, i had to use caps due the level of fail he has achieved in real rallys.
    the traxxas rally is just emulating that, not the full blown wrc cars, but then some rallys are tarmac only so the cars are setup similar the blockhead's car.

  12. #12
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    And not only to mention that all the advertising done by Traxxas shows the cars being driven on pavement or asphalt. The box panels and the website make no mention of running off-road. When someone posted news of the Rally coming out, even before Traxxas made a mention of it, a Traxxas employee wrote "think of gymkhana." Then when the car was introduced, a lot of people complained (even me, but not vocally) because the name implied off-road when nowhere in the advertising or write-ups said that is what it is for. Sure the name may imply off-road, but in the end it is still the model name that should not be taken literally.
    The Super Derecho

  13. #13
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    Well even if its just a model named, the RC world is seriously starved of an actual, ready made Rally RC. The only good models i've seen are now discontinued, so when they marketed it with the name "Rally" they already knew they were going to make sales on that alone and likely already recognized that it was deceptive. I know too many people, like me, were thinking "OMG a RALLY RC from a good company? Sign me up!", and based on the name, let alone the chassis origin, they buy it only later to figure its a straight drifter. Besides... What DRIFT RC goes 50+mph? Thats suicide, you'd never have traction with the stock wheels. The thing thats kicking at me is that its based on an OFF ROAD CHASSIS, native to 2 other well known offroad RC's being the slash and MERV. Theres a billion other BETTER chassis's for on road, and ESPECIALLY for drifting.

    And yeah i know Ken Block is a drifter, and i figured it was just a variation of the Rally as i've never seen the base model (though i've examined their wheels and they looked mediocre) so i wish people would understand that. Honestly my original notion was that i'd just be slapping on the stock tires from the Rally VXL, then some one from another shop informed me that they were basically the same thing with a different tread.

    Again though, thats not the point of this thread (though i wouldnt mind to continue discussing it). I'm taking it from on road, to off road. Right now i have it handling probably better than the slash, as it doesnt have the issue with rolling over, but still maintains good traction on and off road. Not great, but certainly not uncontrollable.

    I'm gana do something that i mentioned in the other forum i linked, being to leave the car with out the limiters in, but then use fuel tubing to limit the upward travel on the shocks so i can lower the body with out the wheels slamming into it. I think that this is a BIG culprit for the slash rolling over so much is that the chassis would rock too much. I'll try it when i get some fuel tubing and i'll report back into say how it went. Any other idea's/suggestions would be great.
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 01-27-2011 at 09:55 AM.

  14. #14
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    I've been running mine almost entirely off-road. Key issues, far as I can tell, are that the stock tires are obviously very slick and the travel is pretty short with the little white springs and the spring collars run up for more ride-height.

    My hypothesis:
    Rally needs more traction-oriented tires, but probably best to keep the low-profile (eg, not the taller, softer Slash tires that like to tuck and roll). That coupled with a modded set of shocks to give more travel (droop) with longer and softer springs should work perfectly. I've got a set of green-spring Revo/Slash shocks to modify and HPI X tires coming.

    Problem I'm seeing is that my ball joints at the toe-links are wearing out and quite loose after 6 hours or so of running over bumpy/hard-packed soil. Do the balls on these wear or do the links themselves go first? Should I go to steel balls, or just stock up on standard toe-links? I've washed and cleaned the car each day but there's a lot of nasty fine-grit clay dust kicked up onto the chassis during a session.

  15. #15
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    on my merv I just put a set of steel hollow balls in, takes up alot of slop, cheap. and the next step is aluminum ones, which can bend, then there junk. the plastic links are more forgiving in a nasty collision

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by obzelite View Post
    you forget that all the ken block propaganda/videos only show him on tarmac or highly compressed dirt for motokhanas. his adventures into real rally have seen FAIL, i had to use caps due the level of fail he has achieved in real rallys.
    the traxxas rally is just emulating that, not the full blown wrc cars, but then some rallys are tarmac only so the cars are setup similar the blockhead's car.

    ah, i dont know where you get the idea that ken block sucks offroad, He's on subaru's USA rally team...
    Are the tires supposta to blow off going into 2nd?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tha-mule View Post
    on my merv I just put a set of steel hollow balls in, takes up alot of slop, cheap. and the next step is aluminum ones, which can bend, then there junk. the plastic links are more forgiving in a nasty collision
    Thanks... I'll give the steel balls a shot. The appeal of some of the alu rods are the separate (replaceable) ends but yea, a little flex is prolly a good idea – keep from breaking other stuff that way.

    As far as whether this pup is worth the "rally" title, keep in mind tarmac, dirt, and snow are radically different setups IRL; seems reasonable to need to dial in a few things at scale too. IMO, the Rally is a blast out of the box on packed surfaces. With some suspension tweeks and grip (and fender liners) it can be a proper rally car.



  18. #18
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    Hey nice. Hows the handling with that setup? It looks like your running on hard dirt (correct me if i'm wrong).

    And sorry if this sounds a little noob, but what do you mean by fender liners? I know a big issue with the rally is that the front end of the car will catch real easily. Could you slide me a link to what you mean?

    Aside from that i know exactly what you mean by different surfaces require different tunings. I'm just looking for a good general setup. The issue i'm having right now is i'm getting wheel lift in tight turns, which is a precursor to flipping, though its yet to happen (on its own anyways, i've caught lips of concrete and flipped real bad that way).

    Has any one ever rigged a sway bar onto this chassis? and if so please say how, i think it would help my case.

  19. #19
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    PHEW!!! Just did a 3 hour long re-build of the suspension... twice... I swapped out the fuel tube limiter for a set of 4 silicone o-rings. The 4 rings will "squish" down to about the maximum size of a fuel tube i could put on, but they also act as a second stage spring because the shock will bottom before the chassis. Theres alot of "cush" now so i'm certain the o-rings will bust before the shock does... Heres how it turned out:






    With that done, and my back and fingers expressing their dismay at my 3 hours of work, i adjusted the body posts to fit the new chassis and the new-found limited compression of the shocks. The body is nice and tight to the wheels, but they either wont, or will barely graze the chassis. Fear not though, even with the limiters in the shocks still have a fair amount of travel, atleast as much as they did before, if not more, though that accounts for the squish in the o-rings. We'll have to see how that turns out though i believe it should work great. The new shocks i put in will make it a rather stiff ride, and i'm not thrilled to see if that's gana be good or bad, because i honestly think theyre too hard now. The springs still do their thing but they hardly move before meeting the cush of the o-rings which make the springs act alot stiffer too.

    All this was intentional, i wanted to limit the roll as much as possible, though i may have over done it. If i dont like how the shocks are working, or if i feel theyre too limited, i think i'll just cut out an o-ring from all of them rather then take them out. I'll sacrifice a dollar of o-rings just to be lazy =P. I'm also considering putting in the lighter weight oil, but not after i see what can be done with it as is first.

    Any way, this is how it sits now:





    I'm likely to raise the body slightly, so the body itself can actually clear something. Right now the body will bottom before anything else lol. Anyways, i need to know what you guys think, and what should the next step be.

    Thanks for all the input thus far! Keep it commin so i can keep this project rollin.
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 01-29-2011 at 01:40 AM.

  20. #20
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    So you took the limiters out of the shocks? Doesn't look like it raised it as much as it should have

  21. #21
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    It about doubles the clearance, an eyeballs guess. I could techically squeeze abit more out of it by maxing out the adjustable push rods, but i dont think its necessary... I'm not even sure how this will perform, and truth be told i'm abit worried. Its a radical change to the 2 biggest things that affect how the car handles. Cant wait till tomarrow, and i need the toe rods to hurry up and get in. Also i have some HPI Pirelli's on the way and i'll happily show those off when i can.

    These are the rims i picked up for them. 12$ in store for a full set, so i couldnt resist.


    Question: Should i paint the inside, or the rims? The paint i bought wont work (too liquidy) so i'll be buying another one when my part comes in. Just want some idea's / opinions until then. Right now my idea is to leave the Star bit black, and paint the entire rest of it (including inside the wheel) green. I think i'd be an interesting contrast.

  22. #22
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    A sway-bar kit for this chassis would be slick. Something to tinker on...

    Fender liners... I'm sketching out essentially an undertray with inner fenders that will a) keep dirt and dust off the chassis and b) do some venturi action on airflow under the car (probably won't work for downforce but who knows). Just hacking paper-board now, but eventually may get to something vacu-form-worthy.

  23. #23
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    Trust me, a sway bar would be A MAZ ING for this kit. Probably one of the most important tunings that it DOESNT have.

    However...

    UPDATES!!!

    So i just tested the RC, both on road and off road. Results? Pretty **** nice. A few issues to be told:

    The RC WILL roll if the tires can get enough traction, though its not as bad as the slash i'd say. It will never roll off road from what i can tell, and i did try (it only rolled when it caught grass while goin sideways)

    I believe the new height is causing binding with the steering, since i keep constantly having to adjust the trim. Either that or its the rocks getting inside of it.

    This thing will likely never be able to handle grass. I pulled the body posts up a notch so its got more height, the wheels just arnt big enough for the nature of grass. I've yet to test it on anything other then loose gravel though.

    The GOOD:
    Its now a rally car in more then just name. The off road handling is nice, and onroad is good too. I'm fairly certain this is gana be as good as it gets, but i'll put on the HPI pirelli tires and see what happens. I'm certain that some one with more experience tuning TC suspension and wheels could squeeze abit more out, but all i'm gana do is put on different tires and i'll call it, unless some one else has an idea...

    If i can get some one to hold a camera for 15 minutes, i'll get a video posted to show off how it handles. I think its pretty decent for something its size.

  24. #24
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    Well since i cant edit my old post, i'll double post...

    UPDATES!!!

    UPDATED UPDATE!!! IMPORTANT:

    So i was gana run it again today, and on my way i noticed the baseball court was open... so i went there. This opened up 3 new terrains, and i made some... unfortunate discoveries...

    Light grass: Seems it can actually run in this now with out being caught. The clearance helps out quite a good bit and it will run pretty well.

    Rough dirt: It also does this now, pretty well. My shocks are WAY WAY too hard for this surface though, the car bounces and hops around alot, but over all its drivable at a significantly decreased performance.

    Smooth packed dirt: Comming onto this surface last, i was already disgruntled at its performance, but this is where it REALLY shines. It handles smooth slippery surfaces best, and this is where it did its thing. It gave FULL rally performance, sweet turning and it didnt flip.

    NOW FOR THE BAD!!!

    Unfortunately, like the slash... If it grips, it WILL FLIP... Straight up, no questions asked. Also the way the ride sits causes binding in the steering, so you'll randomly get only about 4/5th turning depending on how the wheels are sitting.

    The flipping is really bad, every time it grips in a turn, it lifts and just rolls, this means on grass and some types of pavement. Also it flipped a bunch on the rough dirt when the wheels caught.

    CONCLUSION!!!

    After this run, i'm dropping it back to its original ride height. You'll have to ask your self, does it need the clearance? If the answer is around half an inch or less, then no.

    Also i'll be softening up the shocks so they'll work a bit easier. I'm doing a full disassembly on 8 shocks (both sets) and i'm not looking forward to this... I'll be using the original limiter and using the new push rods to adjust ride height as needed. It really needs to sit low to keep its handling. Also i'm leaving 1 o-ring in to limit the upward travel. This should be enough to excuse not having a sway bar.

    Like a REAL rally car, you'll have to judge your surface and tune the car to run it! It doesnt have the base platform needed to be all terrain like the 1/8th scale rallys. Do what real rally racers do, and figure out what terrain your running (or what terrains) and adjust and compensate for them. In real life, Street, Dirt, Gravel and Snow are all radically different setups so keep that in mind.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Millertime660 View Post
    So you took the limiters out of the shocks? Doesn't look like it raised it as much as it should have
    Taking the limiter out will not increase the ride height, it only increases the possible travel of the shock. If you take the limiter out you still have to move the spring adjuster to change the ride height. Once you do it yourself it makes perfect sense, give it a shot, it's a good way to learn more about your car.

  26. #26
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    Its pretty much the only way to get more ride height out of the mini's though. One of their BIGGEST drawbacks i'd say. Getting adjustable push rods will only do so much, its the suspension thats the real limiter.

    Not that i'd recommend it. I just dropped the Rally down again with a limiter thats about 4/5th the size (just a tad more travel then stock) then put an O ring on the outside to compensate, essentially making it sit barely higher. The results?

    TBH i never noticed a benefit for having it sit that high. Anywhere the Rally would hang up stock you probably shouldnt be driving on anyway. Too rough for the tiny, light frame. I could see a benefit in only a handful of situations, like jumps, or woodland area's where twigs, and bark chippings are present, but you should be looking to handle relativity smooth area's, with debris no bigger then half inch. Thats my observation any way.

    I put the limiters back in, and changed the shock oil to 40 weight, and slapped an O-ring in to limit roll. This is how it did:

    Rough dirt w/rocks and other debris: Not bad at all. Got some speed, and being lower didnt seem to hurt its ability to tread the debris. It handled pretty well actually, with some finess with the throttle and steering, you can take turns pretty smoothly.

    Light, short grass: Not so bad. You can really get it going still, the taller stuff is just too much, even raised. Its still got a flipping issue though so not sure what to do about that.

    Pact Dirt: Again, this is what i drive on the most so this is where i get its best performance. Dropping the ride really helped, its much more stable, and a tad more camber in the rear kept it from spinning out so bad. Can get some speed with out losing out on cornering. Cant wait for the HPI Pirelli's to come in, i REALLY wana see how they handle.

    Street: This all depends on what surface your running on. If its too rough, the slash tires will dig in and flip the Rally, but if you can get a little slide, it does great. If it grips too much, it'll flip, but not half as bad as it did when it was raised.

  27. #27
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    I just dropped in a set of stock fresh-off-the-truck E-Revo shocks and springs (green 1.92 springs, no limiter).

    With the collars all the way 'loose', the static ride height on the longer-but-softer springs is almost exactly as with the stock Rally shocks pre-loaded to the limiters (which is how it was running off-road).

    So compression travel is the same, ride-height is (nearly) the same, and stiffness is pretty close. We gain quite a lot of droop which ought to help keep the wheels planted as the car bounces over rough stuff.



    But it's a much softer setup with E-Revo shocks all around. Without the limiters it rolls around a lot.

    To tighten up the rear, I put the long 1.92 springs on the Rally's travel-limited shocks, collars not quite full-loose. Seems to work pretty well (effectively just a lower rate than the standard springs - not sure by how much tho). I think eventually I might end up with slightly stiffer springs (blacks?) and 3mm limiters for dirt running.




    I also roughed up a front sway bar. This one's way too stiff and generates lots of understeer, but the concept is pretty sound: little J hooks from the hollow balls at the bottom of the pushrods up to the main bar which is run through the body mounts. Works great... Obviously, the rear would benefit from a bar more than the front, but it'll require more cleverness for a mounting setup. I'll have to add a few bends in the middle or find thinner, more flexible stock, too...




    Running around right now on wet slick pavement, I have the E-Revo springs/shocks up front (supple) and the standard (stiffer) Rally set on the rear. Front rolls around a little, but I think the added droop will be perfect offroad.

    Where to find out details on the shock-oil viscosities in the various MERV setups? What's the Rally come with? The E-Revo?
    Last edited by prototyp; 01-30-2011 at 09:20 PM.

  28. #28
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    Well, so it took a bit of creativity, but i got the rear bar in with out ANY modification (save the screw holes). Check it out:







    Basically, all i did was drill some holes in the arms for the ends, and the middle i just screwed in the gap where the shock caps go into, and put the plate (backwards) on top.

    Knew all those years ghetto rigging lego creations would pay off!

    unfortunately this same setup wont work in front, since the shocks are spaces farther apart...

    Also, a small problem... The rear suspension seems to be "sticky"... meaning that were ever the back end is sitting, it just stays there. Doesnt "spring" back at all... I dont think its the swaybar's fault, but i'm gana grease it up anyway. I think i may have over tightened something, i'm looking into it now.

  29. #29
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    Can you give us more info on what you used to make the sway bars?

  30. #30
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    Ooh sorry thought i mentioned that. Its the E10 sway bar kit, when done up like above you can get the rear bar in with out doing any more then making some holes in the upper arms.

    If i'm right HPI no longer sells the kit, so you'll have to e-bay it or get it elsewhere online. Thats what i had to do any way.

  31. #31
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    So, i just ran it outside for half an hour, all the above terrains. Got some Great and Bad to tell...

    The great!

    With the bar in, flipping the car is actually an effort now. It can roam the grass and so long as you be careful it wont flip. I found the light grass it was perfectly fine, and if i hit the patches of cloves it'd be too much...

    The center diff makes it really easy to go full power too, since it keeps the car straight... however...

    The bad...

    I dont think i like the center diff... It reduces the acceleration of the car, and i think the top speed of it quite a bit. It wants to keep the car straight, which is good for high speed forward runs, but it also wants to keep it straight, while turning. Also if you break too hard, the car whips around 180, i found that strange.

    The end result is that its "on power" steering is absolutely dreadful.

    I'll slap some heavier weight oil in, i think its running 10k right now. Perhaps i'll double that. I like that the diff helps me stay straight but i dont like how it has so much control when i'm turning...

    Anyways, that sway bar was 100% worth the buy, even if it only fits the back (right now). I highly recommend it to any one who wants to get some real performance out of this rc, with out it flipping everywhere.

    Also, i'm gana re-build the old shock set and slap them in with no limiters, just to see if it handles now with the extra droop.
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 02-06-2011 at 02:27 PM.

  32. #32
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    got mine installed today, only tricky part was drilling the holes in the center of the arms. I plan on making a front bar to fit the front body mounts and then use the extra set of end links that came with the E10 kit

  33. #33
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    Just curious, has anyone tried using the 1/16th Slash set up as the basis for a rally version or even the 1/16th Revo?
    Both are intended for off road. The revo has more down travel and suspension travel than the slash which likewise has more than the rally.
    Just wondering if anyone with deep pockets has tried to swap parts or just bought the 1/16th slash and modded it to carry the rally body.

  34. #34
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    Theyre basically the same RC's... I practically turned my rally into a slash when i took the limiters out. The revo would be too wide i think, and something about it causes it to backflip hard, though i've never driven one.

    @Emkaywon

    If you get the front installed, show me how you did it. I'd like to get mine in but i dont see a convenient way to do it.

    also i'm 100% upping the viscosity of the center diff. I definitely notice my ride is slower to accelerate, and its speed/acceleration on loose or bumpy stuff is terribad...

  35. #35
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    Yup... Fwiw, the Rally works pretty well cruising over rough, packed ground with Slash shocks up front, and Slash springs on 30wt shocks with limiters in the rear, and some tires with grip (HPI X, for example).

    My friend's got a Slash he's dropped with limiters in the shocks. The Slash's tires are pretty much the only significant difference between the two. (What viscosity diff fill does the Slash have standard?)

  36. #36
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    Rally offroad scurrying on Slash shocks and springs (green 1.92), 4mm limited droop rear, and HPI X (watch out for the trees)...




  37. #37
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    Hey nice, so your using "full length" shocks up front, and limited ones in rear? I'm 100% gana have to try that. Also i'll desire to try a similar spring setup, but ATM i only have dbl black and dbl tan.

    Not bad, and you dont seem to get "SUV" syndrome like i did when using a similar method. Then again i was using outer limiters to control the distance of the roll, but with the sway bar in, it should control the roll as a hole. If i work quickly i think i can get a test in before daylight burns out.

    Question, have you tried this with all 4 shocks at max travel?

    Nother Question, Has any one found a "good" way to get the swaybar in front? Prototyp, i know you were working on a ghetto rigged front one, did you get it to work reasonably?

    oh, and i think your answer is 40 weight... atleast thats what came with my new shock set, designed for the slash...
    Last edited by ChaosShadow00x; 02-14-2011 at 08:02 PM.

  38. #38
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    Well, i lied about being able to test it with daylight... not like that stop me, however i discovered that they screwed up the "rough dirt" part of the baseball field (the outer ring of the grass) so i couldnt test it where this setup would be most ideal. However, i think i like it. However, i dont like my **** center differential. I'll probably end up doubling, or tripling its viscosity, before offering to sell it to a friend... It just reduces the acceleration of the car far far too much when the wheels arnt getting even grip (like going over rough terrain)

    I do find that with the extra front travel, that i can roll the car a bit easier. However i notice before it rolls, the body scrapes really bad, then after a second it cartwheels like a pro. Have you experienced this at all? The body scraping i mean. I've tested all corners of the RC and it doesnt seem to meet the ground when you compress the suspension, but i can definitely hear it scraping.

  39. #39
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    yup. the green spring is soft enough that the car rests just a little higher than normal, which is fine as the nose-up stance helps the body to not get hung up on stuff so much. Not too SUV ish... I haven't really tried to roll it yet. I briefly tried all four Slash shocks with max travel on-road, but handling was an unresponsive mushy mess.



    front: 40 wt, no limiter, green 1.92 springs
    rear: 30 wt, 4mm limiter, green 1.92 springs

    I'd like to go a little stiffer, but don't want to raise the height or run on limiters which kills the droop. Might try 60wt in the dampers first, and then dial in springs, probably try to some blacks or blues and shorten them if necessary.

    Haven't revisited the ghetto sway, it worked pretty well in principle but the rear needs it more than the front anyway. I ended up doing a full-chassis tear-down last weekend instead of dorking around with sway ideas. I do like the inboard shock-block mounted ones actuated off the rocker arms I've been seeing photos of...

    If you lean the car, not compress it down but lean it to the side, you can get the wheels to rub inside the body and get the body to drag the ground.

  40. #40
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    guys i would try 50k or more on the center diff. when you decide to sell it, let me know

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